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Everything posted by Ambermile

  1. Cool! Mine needs a new radiator temperature sensor fitted - when can you fit me in? Arthur
  2. That'll likely be around february then... Arthur
  3. The WO VR-1 is pretty much tuned to the WO and clones objectives Ian, I'd not reccomend it for a Synta tbh. Arthur
  4. Pics then Plan A, Plan B and Pointy End !
  5. Should be sorted now Arthur PS - sorry guys
  6. *** DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME FOLKS (NO, REALLY - THE SUN IS DANGEROUS) *** Right, that's the important bit out of the way. There are a few people around the world that I have made adapters for to allow them to remove the objective/tube assembly from their PST's and fit the diagonal/etalon assembly into 2" focusers. With the addition of an Energy Rejection Filter at the pointy end of their scopes (usually 80mm refractors) they then have a 3" solar scope. Whilst technically it's not that simple (there is some hacking of the OTA amongst other things) the benefits of this are manifest in the vastly increased resolution and brighter images at high focal lengths that 80mm of glass can give over the PST's 40mm. Anyway. Damian Peach does a bit of solar work now and then and has recently upgraded from a 130mm Energy Rejection Filter to a larger one to use on his 6" APO - meaning he had a 130mm filter excess to needs. To cut a long story short I bought it from him and it arrived today. It now sits on the end of the Meade AR6 refractor waiting for the fog to go away so I can see the sun! I also, in the meantime, borrowed a tuneable Lumicon Ha/prominence filter (0.7 angstrom) from the Norwich Astro Society in readiness for this mod to try both it and the PST etalon alongside each other. I may take some piccies of the scope later but I am rather excited... this amounts to getting a 6" Ha Solar scope for less than £1000 all in Needless to say I will be imaging through it first chance I get... 'cos I also have one of Astronomisers SC1.5 cams sitting here in readiness! Arthur
  7. ... although I'd suggest screwing it to your diagonal rather than the EP - less chance of dropping it as you swap from EP to EP in the dark with cold fingers... Arthur
  8. RAW files are just that, raw data. To convert from this raw data to jpg/bmp/whatever, the camera firmware applies a smoothing/blurring algorythm as well as some stretching. It is this processing that you have to replicate later yourself. The thing with RAWs is that you get only the data, nothing that has been messed about before you get the chance too. To be honest, if you can't get stars in a RAW file that would be there in the camera-processed jpg then it's your processing skills that need brushing up and there are many places in this site and the broader internet to help/guide you there. Arthur
  9. Nice one Helen - good to hear you're sorted. On the extra plate front, Televue do make one. It's a piece of aluminium with holes/slots in. Expensive but it is anodised Arthur
  10. Just the red mist there Gordon
  11. Well, that's not strictly true - I just finished it is all. Arthur PS - I have some piccies...
  12. Right Caz, this is what your need to do first... Arthur PS - it's really not hard Caz, trust me
  13. They are rather nice - would be better anodised though I will be making another batch in the Spring, things are getting a bit hectic around here I'm afraid. Which is a good thing I suppose but I didn't start Ambermile so I could actually work a 5 day week Arthur
  14. Well, I use mainly 2" for a couple of reasons really. First, with the big scope they are pretty much a pre-requisite otherwise it's just not being used to it's maximum. Secondly though, have you ever seen how silly a Meade S4000 26mm looks 8 feet up a truss tube? You need bins to even see it Arthur PS - incidentally I have somehow acquired a few more 1.25" ep's that I won't be needing so expect a clearout again soon! Postage cost only as usual. On your marks...
  15. Not that I know that much about that side of things, but it would mean a laptop with no parallel port can capture LE without tying p a USB with a parallel convertor thing? Arthur
  16. Very nice Phil, a great solution. Will it run webcam LE I wonder in place of the parallel port? you mean you didn't check before moving??
  17. Ooo yes, that's a nice one. I had it for a while in the spring. arthur
  18. No Steve, it's not the proper imagers in mono thing at all. A newcomer will get faster results with a mono cam and an imperfect mount (thinking about alignment/PEC/guiding etc.) as the sensitivity of the mono chip will capture presentable images faster. Arthur PS - easier to process too
  19. I'm with Rog on this I'm afraid. Especially for the beginner when the sensitivity of the camera is all-important, BW is a must. Arthur
  20. Well, there you have it then - it's economies of scale really. Small market and expensive parts (costs could come down but market size would need to increase first) make for niche products that tend to sell only to those that know what they want. Arthur
  21. OK - here we go then. ART-285: Case - £100 Populated board set - £140 Various bits and pieces - £100 ICX285AL - £350 Packing/etc. - £20 Total - £710 Let's not consider the 18 months development work, by four people, or the fact that they all want some recompense for that. Nor the fact that there is support for badly-assembled kits that averaged about £70 per camera. The ART-285 went out for £795 plus VAT. The ART11002 will be sold through dealers - who expect to make a profit and will also have to provide support. The ccd alone comes in at around £1250 Do the sums... Arthur
  22. So could I... but it's a bit more involved than it might at first seem. Arthur
  23. Well, one of those in-car heated blankets are only about £10... in the bottom of your EP case - should be (not) cool? Arthur
  24. Hmm. Watch this space - I have a T>nikon adapter on the way
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