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Posts posted by johninderby
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Astrograph is a high end telescope dealer and service is second to none. Technosky are fully tested in Italy and then checked again by Rupert here in the UK.
Always a pleasure to deal with Rupert.
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Just hope the paint doesn’t flake off.
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The Celestron Statsense for SW mounts works with the HEQ5 bit aailailty is a problem at the momet. BTW not to be confused with the smartphone Starsense.
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55 minutes ago, bomberbaz said:
late to the party here but I use a moonlight on my 14" dob and have some seriously heavy glass to put in it.
However I didn't know they had ceased production. Don't know why as it is a sterling piece of equipment.
According to,Moonlight it was down to a shortage of materials so they decided to concentrate on the motorised focusers.
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With all the various adaptors etc that Baader do surprising that they don’t do SW and GSO baseplates for the Steeltrack. 🤔
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The Baader Diamond Syeeltrack would be ideal and handles a 6kg load but will need new mounting holes but a simple job. Moonlite has discontinued their regular focusers and now only sell motorised ones.
The CNC R&P focuser off the Bresserr dob would be ideal as it will handle a heavy load but expensive to buy on it’s own.
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Xmas maybe??? 😁
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You. might also want to consider the Bresser 6” dob. A bit more upmarket than the SW or Ursa Major but of course a bit more expensive bit does include a solar filter.
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bresser-telescopes/bresser-messier-6-inch-planetary-dobsonian.html
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Yes it’s a Berlebach Planet tripod. The UNI trippd is OK but the Planet is incrediblely solid.
The 8” pillar extension is the new Rowan one and they will be releasing it for sale very shortly.
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What I like about the AZ100 is ypu can start with the basic mount and upgrade as and when you want so the cost can be spread out.
Howeve4 used AZ100 mounts are as rare as hens teeth. 🙂
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3 hours ago, ukskies said:
I believe there's a couple of 125 owners on here, how are you getting on with your scopes now in the longer term?
Still happy with mine. As mentioned above shows more than a 4” frac. The only reason for going for a 4” Tak is portability as they are very light weight.
When used for solar white light with a wedge gives fantastic views. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
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32 minutes ago, Carl Au said:
I concur.
On another matter where did you get that shield from, I could use one of those.
Mine is an old Astro Engineering one but Widescreen has a very similar looking one.
https://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/emc-sb2-solar-shield.html
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Quote fron Stu
“As per my previous post with your use case I suspect there is little benefit in a wedge over film. The main benefit for me comes when using a slower achro or apo at high power to really show the detail. I’ve posted previously about the fact that even a blank disk can be interesting to view with a high power setup in good or excellent seeing conditions.”
Exactly what I have found. 👍🏻
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When seeing is average not a huge difference in performance between Baader film and a wedge but with great seeing you can really push the mag with a wedge and see more detail.
Best white light I’ve ever had is with a wedge and my 125 APO. Wonder if the scope used makes for different experiences using a front mounted filter and a wedge.
Yes if a front mounted filter were to fail you would get the full suns light whereas if a wedge were to fail it simply wouldn’t pass any light to the eyepiece. However never heard of a front mounted filter failing but have heard of the filter falling off.
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Getting the secondary centered is essential.
What I do after getting the secondary perfectly centered is to level the primary mirror. Simply loosen the locking screws then using a little steel rule or similar adjust the primary screws to exactly the same length. You should then find the scope is very close to being collimated. With a perfectly set secondary achieving collimation should only require minor tweaking of the primary screws.
For final collimation I use the locking screws. When the screws are tightened you will find they throw collimation slightly out but just adjust the tightness of the locking screws until perfect collimation is achieved. This way your scope will stay in collimation for ages. For some reason some seem to leave the locking screws loose and then wonder why the scope needs more frequent collimation. They are called LOCKING screws for a reason as they lock in collimation.
I use a laser for final collimation but as mentioned cheap lasers themselves need collimating. A Hotech laser will be sppt on but of course is £££££.
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Yes I have used it on an AZ-GTi mount and it did indeed increase the max loading by a couple of kg but wasn’t suitable for long OTAs. For shorter scopes worked really well though.
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Snowing this morning so no solar observing here. 😕
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Robertson screws etc. are available in the UK after all. 🙂
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Esprit 80 alternative
in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Posted
Or the…….
https://astrograph.net/epages/www_astrograph_net.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/www_astrograph_net/Products/AGTEC90OWL
Out of stock at the moment though.