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Everything posted by scotastro

  1. The specs for your camera are quite respectable as the ISO can be adjusted up to 1600 and 15s is adequate for longer exposure images. The Moon only neds a short exposure, but for fainter objects the longer the exposure the better. The clamp Zog suggested works fine and is easy to adjust. You did not mention the type of scope you have - does it have motor drives? Mike
  2. Welcome to SGL another Mike
  3. Low power EPs (32 to 20mm) of most designs have eye relief of about 20mm which means even viewing with your glasses you will still see the whole field of view. Plossls at moderate magnification can have quite short eye relief (under 10mm) which would be no good for you. EP specification usually give the eyerelief figures. Mike
  4. scotastro

    Hello All

    Welcome to the forum Mike
  5. I have the Exploere 130 reflector. The range only work in Alt Az, there is no EQ setting in the handset. If you want a copy of the manual PM me. Mike
  6. If you keep the scope set up all the time, just as a precaution always check those locking screws are tight before moving the scope. Mike
  7. Welcome to the forum from SW Scotland Mike
  8. With a 75% larger mirror area a 16" will show a lot more than a 12" assuming the conditions are the same. You don't necessarily need a big scope to see detail in galaxies. Good transparency, a dark sky and being an experienced observer are probabaly more important. Mike
  9. You are corect. The lower figure means more light is blocked. Although a bit more money I would recommend a polarising moon filter. This allows the level of transmission to be adjusted to suit exactly what you need for the phase of the Moon. It's good for Venus too. Mike
  10. Good sighting. Check out www.heavens-above.com it will show you when many staellites are visible from your area. By the way, Hubble is not visible from the UK. Hope you get the scope sorted - have you posted the problems your having? Mike
  11. If the GOTO worked for Venus then you will have found Uranus, but the latter normally looks like a small, distinctly blue disc. The planets are separated by about 3 deg. Mike
  12. Building your own 6" reflector will not be cheaper than a factory build one like Skywatcher, but you will be able you have better quality optics (not knocking SW they are good for the money) and your scope will have the type of focuser, finder, etc. you want. A long focal length f6 or f8 would be best for planetary work. Mike
  13. scotastro


    Welcome from SW Scotland Mike
  14. Barry, welcome to SGL. Mike
  15. Hi Reggie Welcome to SGL and back to the hobby. You will get lots of help from everyone here. Mike
  16. A 60mm aperture scope is rather on the small side. It may have GOTO capability but many of the objects in the database will not be visible. GOTO adds a lot to the price of a scope, but does nothing for the optics. Something like a 130mm reflector or 90mm refractor as the smallest size to start with. A bigger aperture scope would be something you would grow into rather than rapidly out of. Here are two suggestions of about the same price as the Celestron http://www.firstlightoptics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ev90eq32 http://www.firstlightoptics.com/proddetail.php?prod=SW130PSupaTrakAUTO Mike
  17. Percival Lowell seeing canals on Mars - He was actually seeing the blood vessels on his retina. Newton experimenting on colour perception distorted the back of his eyeball with a needle. Also the "mad" idea that 90% of the Universe is invisible Mike
  18. My ST102 needs the diagonal in to come to focus. As new the ST80 is supplied with a 2x barlow with a threaded top so you can attach a camera to it. You may need to use the barlow as Lightbucket describes for your camera too. Mike
  19. Nice One! It's also called Iapetus. Just come in from looking at Saturn. Titan is sitting just above the tip of the ring with Rhea off to the left. (Newt view of course). Dione was on the opposite side of the ring to Titan. Weatherman must have had the chart upside down today as the forecast was tfor cloud until midnight. Instead it has been crystal clear until now when cloud is coming in. Our guests have had a great observing. Mike
  20. I would take advantage of your dark skies by buying the 10" dob. It will give to amazing views of so much, far more than a refractor or SCT of the size you are looking at. If you want to do astrophotography later suitable mounts and scopes can be bought second hand quite cheaply. Mike
  21. Welcome to SGL. As well as the 2x barlow suggested earlier I would also recommend a 2" 32mm wide angle eyepiece. Mike
  22. scotastro

    hello all

    Hi Paul welcome to the forum. What is doggy about your Newt Mike
  23. If you could see a moving bright dot it was a satellite. If it was just a streak of light then it was a meteor. Mike
  24. My suggestions would be a polarising moon filter as you can "dial in" the amount of filtering to suit the Moon's phase - works for Venus too. A 2" low power 32mm wide angle as some objects look better when you can see more of it (eg Andromeda Galaxy and Orion Nebula). I you go too high in magnification (above 300x) the objects will go through the field of view too fast to really study them. A right angle erect image finder (maybe later) makes locating the fainter DSOs easier when reading from a star map. Mike
  25. When you say astronomy what actually do you mean. The term "astronomy" is so much broader these days than say 20 to 30 years ago. It is possible to be connected with space / astronomy without studying astrophysics. A lot of astronomy is maths based anyway. You can research the form life may take on other planets by being a biologist. I would suggest contacting the head of your nearest Universities that does astronomy courses for suggestions. Have you read this doc produced by Cardiff AS. http://www.nmm.ac.uk/upload/pdf/So_you_want_to_become_an_astronmer.pdf I wish you the best of luck. Mike
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