Tinker1947

Put up Sterling Board its no expensive, has 1 side varnished and if you want it removable hold it in place with 42 x 1" timber with a rebate so it sits in the rebate piece at the bottom and top ,,,some thing like this...

28 minutes ago, Freddie said:

Aggression is a percentage so 3500 doesn't sound right. Are you sure you adjusted the correct setting? 3500 sounds more like a max duration setting.

Could have been i only done it the once........will check next time its clear....

It asked me to increase the DEC/RA aggression i have it at 3500 atm, poor seeing will depend on your guide CCD, i use a Lodestar and it doesn't have a problem with even the faintest, clouds seem to stop it working though....

I have a NEQ6 Tripod i use with a Star Adenturer, it seems a solid tripod to me, the cost of the one you mention is quite a lot and i'm not sure you will benefit, have you checked out flexture on the dovetail ect maybe a Loosmandy plate might do better....

 http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-losmandy-type-d-series/adm-losmandy-style-universal-dovetail-bars.html

11 hours ago, Daniel-K said:

you don't really need warm air to clear a secondary just needs air flow.

 

I now use a mains powered hairdryer, this is kept in my workshop along with the EP Box it's normally 50-60f  in there, the secondary gets a blast of warm air clears in seconds and as do the EP's before i use them and when there returned to the case, i just couldn't stand there with a 12v unit the little bit of puff it gave out meant the Tracer would die very quickly and the Obby PSU's wouldn't drive without a voltage drop and there by screwing up the Mount supply and then the GoTo, this is all referring to the Dob the Imagine rig will need a some form of secondary dew protection, taking the kit out of the focuser to give that a puff would really kill a imagine run....

1 minute ago, Daniel-K said:

I had a 4AH one cost me £60 from eBay.  It powered 4 dew straps and a hair dryer for 6 hours in sub temperatures I really rate them

12v Hairdryers, well the one i put in the dustbin required 15amps @ 12v to blow out barely warm air

3 hours ago, AWR said:

Which PSU did you use?

I had this set-up, since the photo the 200w gave up due to a cap blown up and this took a couple of other bits with it, the scope has change back to a 250P-DS and the SCT along with the 2 dew heater were sold, the Maplin heaters sent to power to the SCT, if your outside a then low voltage cable would be should be run from the PSU this should be kept in a sheltered shed/garage away from dew or damp, i would myself in hindsight have gone for a bigger output PSU the 2 Maplin units combined outlay would have brought a bigger unit....

I had the Astrozap with a additional dew strap around this both running off a 13.8v PSU no controller....no dew either....

Depending on the size you require, 11" SCT or bigger won't require a controller....

6 minutes ago, Daniel-K said:

also with the F4s you will need a coma corrector and as john and micheal said collimation at this F ratio is a little tricky even for the experienced astronomers.  

Its not a black art Colimating a scope, just needs a little bit of practice, coma corrector for a Reflector, focal reducer flatterers for Refractors, go for a 130P-DS in the reflectors easier to use and cheap......

If you have other lower powered EP's run some tests, i only tried a few images as the results were never very good.

You may be trying for to much magnification, my D80 and Hyperion's works fine down to 10mm in a 10" Reflector.....Not sure of other EP's that take a DSLR Len other than Pentax, but there will be some...

There's this thread, i think the 44mm is right but you need to take into account the T-Ring space....My 600D T-Ring measure about 11mm thick...

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/196140-dslr-camera-body-distance-to-sensor/

Canon DSLR's are listed as 55mm sensor to flange, if your DSLR has a a 44mm distance then the OAG will work, finding stars will still be a bit hit and miss but it seems the distance will be right....

Your space with the Orion will be 65mm thats 10mm over the required space, if it works well done, it it doesn't then keep the packaging to send it back , i have tried 2 OAG's in the past, gave up trying to find stars with them in the end, use a ST-80 and lodestar now, so many stars to choose from.....

The op was asking how to fit an oag to a dslr with an mpcc, Tinker! I don't think he can afford, or wants to spend on, a ccd...

Louise

i think i pointed out you can only have a DSLR and MPPC there's no room for other stuff, the CCD route give you a bit of space.....

Hmmm, that one is quite pricey. I could buy a separate guide scope for that price.

It seems I bought stuff again without enough research. Does anyone need an as-new OAG?

I use the MPPC with Atik Filter Wheel and Atik CCD the guiding is done by a ST-80/Lodestar though, for spacers there's nothing better than the Baader Vari-lock they do 2 sizes with less than the thickness of a hair adjustment......

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-varilock-46-lockable-t-2-extension-tube.html

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-varilock-29-lockable-t-2-extension-tube.html

The back focus on the MPCC is 55mm, which means it has to sit right on the DSLR, a CCD has less back focus around 13mm so you could use this space to get this working.....but it does require a CCD

I gave up with optical finders, all the stars appeared to be as bright as each other, the Telrad just works...

This is the latest driver, well it worked with my firmware handset upgrades....

http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41

Its a bit late but my vapour barrier is held in place with stainless steel staples, the wood or plastic overcoat will stop and moisture i would think it will be fine with or without  any treatment....

If you want to see what you are missing you should  buy that 24" reflector, install SkySafari 4 Pro, it comes up quite often with half price offers £15, you get to install on any thing registered to your e-mail address for the one price , in my case 2 tablets and a mobile phone all Android it showM,NGC,UGC and  PGC dso's down to Mag 23'ish,and the NGC list around half way into the screen zoom, better than any book my 7" tablet fits in my coat pocket it also has the stay on option, night vision plus a lot more

I gave up with my Xbox wireless controller, the dongle was less than 4' away, with a short usb lead plugged straight into its own usb socket on the back of the pc, kept dropping out, it was new of Amazon....not tried a wired one use the guide scope phd screen and a telrad now plus eqmod, and Atik CCD screen for aligning....

Just bought a couple of 12v ones for the camper van, pity they didn't do red ones.

Dave

these won't break the bank....i use them to cover the monitor screen

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141756665158?adgroupid=&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80

I bought these for the shop and the workshop. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-T8-Tube-2-3-4-5-6-8ft-Fluorescent-Replacement-/321872983577?

take the old tube out, take the old starter out and stick the new stuff in.

My old tubes are failing so I am replacing them 2 at a time.

I will get a couple to see how they shape up, i have 5' tubes so around £22 a unit, thanks for the link