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FrankieValley

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Everything posted by FrankieValley

  1. Can I ask that you stop picking holes (or not), in people's understanding and help Sara overcome the problem she posted. Thanks.
  2. Oh, absolutely. Forgive me for typing so fast as to be inaccurate.
  3. Not sure how DSS works in practice, but essentially, subtract bias from darks and flats to make master dark and master flat. Then subtract bias, master dark and master flat from your lights. It can be even more complicated..... but I tend to leave it there!!
  4. Yes, subtract flats, bias and darks from your light frames, but also subtract the bias when you make up the flat.
  5. It is a good idea to use a bias control frame to remove the bias from all your flat subs before stacking and making your flat control frame. That way, any gradient caused by the camera bias will be eliminated from the flat. My Canon 1000D shows a gradient across the ccd in a bias frame.
  6. I hope he got the ladder thrown in for free! What a whopper!
  7. I thought I'd leave out the flat frames, that were introducing vignetting, from the DSO's above and spend some more time post-processing to see if there was anything to improve on. I think there was. I must say I'm very impressed with the Atik314L+ considering M1, M81 & M82 were just 6x2min subs - much less noise than I was expecting. I guess that's what you get with a sensitive chip, less noisy electronics and set-point cooling.
  8. Hi, I had a good night of imaging last night and I thought I'd share the results with you for thoughts, comments and suggestions. Equipment used for DSO's was my new Atik 314L+ (colour), purchased at a bargain price from Astrofest. This is my first cooled camera. Scope is my trusty 250PDS on NEQ6, guided by a Lodestar through an OAG with Baader MPCC. The OAG guiding part, I am still a novice at and this was made all the more tricky because I decided to do away with the ST4 cable and ascom pulse guide for the first time. Talk about trying to bite off more than I can chew! The planets were taken using a DFK21 something or other, with a 3x Televue barlow with extender to achieve 4x.... again with the 250PDS. Points worth noting are..... I need a IR/LP filter for the Atik. I'll probably go for the Astronomik CLS CCD.....My flats are not good as can be seen lower right hand corners. I'm in the process of building a lightbox out of foambaord to solve this..... Pulse guiding needs practice, but was pretty stable for M51 at the end of the night (4am).... M81, M82 and Crab Nebula were only 6x2min subs. More of a try out really..... M51 is 50x3min subs and hopefully more colour will come when LP is filtered out..... My image editing skills are pretty basic and I use a combination of basic processing in Nebulosity (DSO's), Registax (planets) and then pass as .png's to GIMP for more levels, curves, saturation, etc. I then pass back as .jpg's and do some cropping and bits and pieces in Picasa. So there you have it and I look forward to your comments, etc. I hope you enjoy my work
  9. What a great image. Tonnes of detail. 'Twas a good night for planets the last couple of nights.
  10. This says they are in stock and includes a nosepiece and IR filter - Telescope House Webcam Astro-imaging Kit including Philips SPC
  11. That is pretty cool. This would be a good view at the moment from Ganymede looking towards Io....
  12. Hi, What am I missing? I can't work out how to use Autostakkert! v2.0.46. Using single or multiple align points changes the right hand side output selections. Nothing happens pressing the stack button, but sometimes something does if I change the output image size. It doesn't seem intuitive at all, or am I just being thick? I've looked at the creators tutorial videos and a quick guide for a sun image and none have helped as used on old software. Any ideas or pointers on how to get this to work and actually what it does, other than not much? Registax keeps falling over on large avi's and I was hoping this would replace it for aligning and stacking.
  13. No clouds for me, but after waiting for a week to use my new scope (due to cloud, obviously), I tried to screw on the focal reducer and found I couldn't. The thread on the focuser tube had metal build up on it. That went back inside to be returned to manufacturer
  14. Hi Luke. After setting the white balance today on my DFK21, the frame rate on Mars shot up from a miserable 15fps to 60fps and I could see a planet rather than an orange gob stopper! Shooting with Y800 format and Y800 codec and then debayering with GB in Reg6 has got rid of my mottled canvas and I have a good result. The image attached is 30s/2000 frames with a bit of basic post processing in Registax. I'm not sure if the mottling/canvas effect was caused by the small number of frames (~100) I was trying last night, due to low fps, or due to my extremely red biased image causing some weird effect when debayered.... or both. Anyway, problem solved and I hope it helps you.
  15. ... and a nice crescent shape if you could make it out in the Martian glare of the sun very close by to the Earth. But according to Stella, this is how it would look (magnified from it's 0'25" diameter in the Martian sky). Cool stuff!
  16. That IS cool. This is on a similar(ish) vein if you haven't seen it -
  17. This is the one that rang a bell with me. An idea to attach propellants to large debris to drive it into a re-entry bonfire - BBC News - Space junk could be tackled by housekeeping spacecraft
  18. I too shall be out again. Not sure how long I'll last, as I got to bed at 5am this morning and got 4 hours kip. However, I have my new toy to try tonight - 314L+ colour She is whirring beside me making a library of bad pixel maps and a master bias frame in readiness. Look out universe, here I come!
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