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jimmyjamjoejoe

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Posts posted by jimmyjamjoejoe

  1. On 17/09/2018 at 01:38, Andywilliams said:

    I sometimes struggle with framing an object with my dslr on my star adventurer.

    I am liking the look of the red dot finder mounted on the dslr hotshoe.

    can anyone please give me a link to a reasonably priced purchase of this gear?

    Do I need just the red dot finder or is there an added mount piece that I need to mount it on my dslr as you guys have done.

    Cheers,

    Andy

     

    I have an adapter here to attach a standard QR base to a camera hotshoe - https://www.thingiverse.com/Jimmyjamjoejoe/designs

    There are also a couple of arca plate to finder shoe adapters too which other star adventurer users might find useful for finder-guiders etc.

     

    • Like 1
  2. On 21/09/2018 at 06:29, 8472 said:

    When you say "50mm guidescope" do you mean the standard 50mm SW finder? If so, you may struggle, if used in conjunction with a Synguider to get a guide star. Synguider is better suited to a ST80, or the like.

    To answer your question, you can always make a bracket like this.

    20180914_204900-756x1008.thumb.jpg.8efc385f7d15d87be698ee13e3be410d.jpg

     

     

    I grabbed one of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263867662245

     

    I couldn't find what I needed so I knocked up a model and 3D printed it, works a treat. Free for anyone who wants it - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3125622

     

     

     

     

     

  3. I've managed to pick up a synguider for a crazy price. About to order a 50mm guidescope too, which i believe has the normal skywatcher shoe on it. 

    Anyone know how i go about attaching that to the mount? I dont use a scope, just camera and lens, and was planning on having the guider on the other end of the L-bracket, probably on another ballhead. I cant find any adapters to go from arca to finder shoe...

     

  4. Had my first light the other night. Went well! Lots learned, mistakes were made, but ultimately a positive experience - even finished up taking 180s subs at 200mm with more than acceptable results.

    The main issue is my lens though - I'm using a fuji x-t1 along with a fuji 55-200mm. Theres no tripod collar so it's tough to balance on the Dec axis. I bought a longer tripod plate which works wonders, but rubs on the lens because it's a fatty - meaning no zooming once the plate is attached. Anyway, the lens uses a motor for focusing, even in manual mode - this is so that it's parfocal. As you zoom, the encoders tell the lens where the elements need to be in order to stay focused where you were etc... also the stars are rubbish, even stopped down to f5.6... only at f8 does it become acceptable

    Bottom line is that the lens is less than ideal. I'm after a cheap manual lens from ebay or the like... Seems SMC takumars are a favourite, but looks like prices have jumped to over £120 or so for them, if there are any. Can anyone recommend anything around £50? Looking for either 200mm or 300mm. F4 or better preferably, f5.6 if it's fairly decent wide open... I'm not after competition level photos, i can deal with abberations so long as they aren't all up in your face.

     

  5. On 14/08/2018 at 14:58, Jkulin said:

    I did this image June 2017 on my SA unguided Nikon 800 with a Samyang 14mm F2.8 for 450 secs, it wasn't balanced as I forgot my counterbalances and the arm but was PA ISO160....I know it should have been a lot more than that but you live and learn.

    The mount has now been Hypertuned so should produce even better results.

    337459180_SkywatcherStarAdventurera.thumb.jpg.0621607a0fdd83cb173d3596d253bf21.jpg

    LeMans_GOOD_LIGHT_450s_160iso_2-8_20170617-23h37m57s507ms.jpg.5a0c905b75f383b4a4f85b78af2ee6d7.jpg

    Whats with the coathanger?

    • Like 1
  6. Any advice for a dewshield for a 200p? I tried a camping mat jobby but it keeps getting deformed and oval at the open end, ever so slightly cutting into the light path (that is, i can see the edges of it by looking into the focuser with no ep in).

    I remember seeing someone on here who had the same problem and had reinforced it with some kind of ring fixed in at that end, i just cant remember what they used...

  7. Might have to have a look in wilkinsons, Bournemouth, Poole, Winton store? I could just remove the button for the white as I would only be using it for red light.

    It was actually in ferndown, but i imagine the others will have it too. As for the switch, it's a slider rather than buttons to remove, but it'd still be easy enough to block off if you never plan to use white light. Worst comes to worst you can just remove the white LEDs.

    There are 2 white LEDs, one on either side, and 1 red in the middle. The red can be a little dazzling for anyone you look at, so i stuck a single tiny strip of masking tape directly infront of the LED, so only diffuse light gets out. :)

    • Like 1
  8. I have the Baader Zoom 8-24 and use it all the time, love it...but I really wanted to get more zoom out of it and am really considering this Zoom designed for it.

    For the meantime, I have been using my Shorty x2 Barlow with it...It is ok but noticed there is a very fine line between blurry...nearly clear and blurry again when trying to view planets etc...I have collimated my scope within an inch of it's life so I know it's not that...maybe ot's the conditions but I am really interested to see what this Baader Zoom can do...

    I think I might take the plunge and treat myself to this :p)

    Very likely to be the seeing conditions. Leave it at "nearly clear", and once every now and then you'l get a fleeting glimpse of amazing clarity.

  9. Here's my case with more to follow

    That is a great collection. I don't think i'd ever want more than that to be honest. Well chosen focal lengths, decent bang for buck quality wise. It's everything i'd want on a realistic budget. Obviously if i won the lotto or something it'd be black and green all the way, but until then, this is the collection i'm going to mimic. :(

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