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Everything posted by jimmyjamjoejoe

  1. Boom. I knew there had to be a megathread somewhere. Thanks! Looks like ~300mm is the realistic limit...
  2. I'm looking to dabble in some astrophotography. I've taken quite a few years out of astronomy so the star adventurer is new to me... I already have an evostar 90 on an eq2 for visual. Im a planetary guy so it does me fine. I am however interested in some widefield photography. I have an old eq1 with a motor but with no way to accurately polar align its not great. I'm considering the star adventurer. I imagine with just a camera and a moderately wide lens it will be great, even without guiding. However, I know sooner or later i'll want to increase the focal length. My longest lens is 200mm, how long could I realistically push subs at that length? Would guiding significantly improve that? I also imagine I'd end up wanting to slap an st80 on there... Can it handle that? If so, I'm guessing guiding would help more with the heavier setup... what sort of exposure length can be achieved with an st80 guided/unguided? And lastly, anything else I should know about this setup? My basic understanding is I'd need the mount, wedge, power tank, a ball head, then adding an L-plate, guide scope and camera if I want to guide. As for cables is it just camera to laptop, and laptop to mount (st4) plus phd2 software? I shoot fuji at the moment, but maybe in future i'll grab a modded canon and use backyardeos... All sound sane?
  3. I bought an RDF with a view to mount it alongside the finder... Instead, it just replaced the finder. RDF + Wide eyepiece was all I ever needed to find anything.
  4. What do these sell for nowadays? Getting ready for a clearout and found one of these in my case. I remember them getting discontinued a few years ago, and were tough to get hold of even before that. Cant find any prices on eBay, abs, or Google for that matter...
  5. Had this with an old gamepad a while back. I tried all sorts of cleaners, even tried removing the coating itself. It ended up in the bin
  6. Canons fair better with noise in the dark... *puts on my bulletproof jacket* The 1100d and 600d have the lowest noise for the crop sensor range. I wouldn't go for the 60da. I remember reading it wasnt really worth it since you'd do better with a modded 600d.
  7. I would, yep. Try to keep pre-processing to a minimum though. Individual subs and the stacked result will never look like the final image though. Stacking squishes more data into a file, it's the post processing which will reveal it.
  8. The samyang 14mm has pretty harsh moustache distortion so you'l need to correct that first. The good news however is that it performs VERY well with regards to coma so dont be afraid to shoot wide open.
  9. The eye lenses are similar, if not a little bigger on the zoom. As for the wide option, i wouldnt go for the bst, try and find a second hand panaview, though it may not fare well in your scope. The best option would be to save a little more and opt for an aero or hyperion aspheric, both just over £100...
  10. Search flickr for sample pics, it really is quite a stunning lens. I guess since its manual focus and aperture the money goes into the optics
  11. The one for FF works well enough for crop. Take a photo of some blinds or something with a lot of horizontal lines for tweaking if you really want to get it perfect
  12. I have the samyang. Dont bother stopping it down, it really is excellent wide open. Just be sure to download a lens profile to deal with the tricky moustache distortion.
  13. They'l always be small, 6-8" will regularly give you the maximum magnification that the seeing will allow. While larger scopes would offer slightly more magnification due to higher resolution, and better light gathering, the conditions will rarely allow you to see the benefits. Infact, larger scopes suffer the effects of seeing worse more than often, which is why many owners of larger scopes will mask them down for planets.
  14. I bought the samyang/rokinon 14mm not long ago and stars are excellent wide open. It has some tricky moustache style distortion which is easy to correct with a profile. Now I just need to figure out this processing lark.
  15. Made me think of the ship in the hitchikers guide - so dark and sleek that even your gaze would slip right off of it
  16. That is impressive. I'm in a fairly dark place and I cant get near that, even at 2.8. My processing sucks though, and to make it worse my computer has now gone pop x
  17. I got a saitek eclipse keyboard a few years back, can change the backlight colour to red and adjust brightness
  18. I was apprehensive about ML on the 1100d since it's still in development, but it works nicely. Definitely worth it.
  19. The kit lens is perfectly capable of great results from a dark site. The 50mm will be worth a punt just to get some nice detail near cygnus. Or you could listen to the voices in your head and get some new glass. I recently got a samyang 14mm f2.8, which gets rave reviews for sharpness etc. Seems the optical quality is awesome since it's manual focus and aperture - it's kindof the dobsonian of lenses it also controls coma astonishingly well, which is rare for a camera lens.
  20. Depends if you use a diagonal. If you do, you can screw half of the filter into the diagonal and the other half on the ep, then you just rotate the ep.
  21. You can pick up a 70-200 f4L pretty cheap second hand. Crazy sharp lenses those... ;-)
  22. That's really good actually! Really works for the horsehead and a couple of galaxies.
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