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About peroni

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    Kent, England

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  1. How about this as an alternative. I used the tripod head as the mounting plate and bolted onto some concrete blocks. The blocks were all bolted together and then mortared onto patio. You could stand the last block upright if you don't have an extender tube.
  2. RDF is a great idea. I had trouble finding targets for visual observation at the weekend as my finder has been repurposed. I'll add an RDF to my Christmas list. ? A probably crazy thought: Save the £360'ish and not purchase a Moonlite/Baader and save up for a £989 Sky-Watcher Esprit 80 ED PRO Triplet. I had read that the focuser on the Esprit 80 ED is as good or better than the Moonlite focuser. Thinking outload though: I'm in a different price bracket now (£989 Esprit + £119 flattener +£24 adapters/spacers) Not likely to have a spare £1100+ soon so back to how to upgr
  3. I've decided it's time to replace the standard focuser on my Skywatcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro. Main use is as an imaging scope although occasionally I'll put a Baader Hyperion Zoom Eyepiece on for some visual astronomy. With the Baader eyepiece the focuser will slip when at the Zenith. Same when I have my imaging kit on. My set up is as follows: Skywatcher 9x50 finder scope used for guiding with QHY5-II guide camera (I need a finder shoe on my new focuser) Atik 460ex camera Celestron Skyris 5-Position 1.25" Filter Wheel (I may upgrade to Atik EFW2 so new focuse
  4. FLO recommended I use this Celestron 5 filter wheel https://www.firstlightoptics.com/filter-wheels/celestron-skyris-5-position-125-filter-wheel.html it was not the cheapest at £85 vs £67. But I didn't need to buy extra spacers. Double check the space you need between the scope eyepiece and camera chip. I think it's called back focus. I use it with my atik 460ex.
  5. I use a 460ex with this scope (my first and only scope) and find it great. Very easy to get going each night and with guiding settle on 15mins subs. It'll do more but there is always a trade off between longer exposures and losing subs to funnies like guiding errors, wind wobbles, large planes etc.
  6. I think if you see a flickering power led it could mean there is not enough power being supplied to the mount. In your case with 17Ah battery it may be loosing it's charge. Whenever my mount light flickered, that was the reason. Since I've switched over to a mains power I've not seen and flickering at all.
  7. Set up is a bit of a beast to get consistently right without troubles. Write each step you do in order and be detailed i.e plug the same usb into the same usb port everytime. Start software in the same order every time. My set up workflow is... 1. Use spirit level to level mount and roughly point North 2. When Polaris is visible, align mount so Polaris is in center of cross hairs and there is equal range of movement on Az bolts 3. Attach telescope, weights, camera, finder scope. Ensuring telescope is correctly pointing up at home position. (Have saddle bolts facing up and telesco
  8. If you haven't already purchased the guiding gear, have a think about attaching a QHY5 camera to a finderscope. Plenty of people here have done it (me included) and it'll keep the weight down on your HEQ5. I use a QHY5LII mono camera attached to a Skywatcher 9x50mm finder scope. Have a search for 'finder guiders' on internet.
  9. Reading this thread hurt my brain but it's all super impressive work. Well done Gina
  10. Phew! I thought I had a serious equipment failure on my hands. I was using my ED80 scope with the aperture reducer on the front (the cover with the 50mm smaller opening). With all these cloudy nights I just wanted to photograph something. The evening wasn't wasted though. I've now learned that a 460ex without filters is not good as a lunar camera I do have guide camera which I could use. Just never quite got round to it yet. So many targets to choose and so few good, clear nights.
  11. I've been in the same dilemma this year. I tend to shift between making one and buying one. Pros for buying are: less hassle removable later on Pros for making are: cheaper For astrophotography you'll need to bolt it to a solid foundation. My current thought is a pre-made pier like this
  12. I was out the other night even though the cloud was thick: Desperate to grab a few shots I turned to the moon. The image below is a single frame taken using a 460ex mono. No filter used. Exposure was 0.001 sec. No binning. A simply auto stretch was applied in PixInsight, no other processing. What has caused the strange lighting effect? Is it IR reflection as I haven't used an IR filter?
  13. I've just downloaded and installed APT v3.0. Up from my previous version of 2.80. I'm running windows 10 and all appears ok so far. It has fixed my problem where 'focus aid' would crash APT (history notes say v2.90 included this fix) So for others brave enough to upgrade. Go for it
  14. My filter is the 7nm Baader Ha. I managed to just about see a usable star in APT with the mask and filter in place and 5 secs at Bin 2. I have to use the windows magnifier though. Not sure if it is normal but since I've been using my 460ex camera in APT the preview window displays a very small picture. I'll have to RTFM before posting a query though. A quick look at manual has thrown up a few solutions to the problem
  15. I'm running v2.80 I had a quick search and a look for an update but I'll need to buy it again as I purchased my version over a year ago. I went back to using the Bahtinov mask so my clear sky session wasn't wasted. I'll have a look at updating the software and searching/posting on the forums when the clouds roll in again.
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