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Geordie mc

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Everything posted by Geordie mc

  1. 8 inch Newtonian for visual or astrophotography use. Mount is a good solid unit. Comes with mains and cigar lighter power leads. 28mm 2 inch eyepiece. 25 and 10mm I.25 inch eyepieces and 2x Barlow. Skywatcher coma corrector. Red light torch (needs new batteries). Padded carry case for scope. Skywatcher ST80 guide scope with Skywatcher guidescope mount. Extra counterweight. Azimuth bolts are metal upgrades from Bob’s Knobs. Carry case for eyepieces etc. Looking for offers around £750 for the whole setup. (Preferred option). But, I would consider splitting the scope, mount, coma corrector, case, ST80 and guidescope mount. Make me a sensible offer. I would also consider a swap for a one shot Colour ccd or cmos camera for deep sky use. Must be cooled and small bodied for Hyperstar use such as Atik Horizon os asi 533 pro. Tell me what you’ve got and we can work something out if the camera is suitable. i live in France in the Haute Vienne but am back in the UK at Huntingdon in Cambridgeshire from Dec.20 to 28th. I could leave kit for collection in the New Year if that helps. Collection only please. Payment by PayPal only. Many thanks.
  2. Try this thread on Cloudy Nights. It may help. It sounds as though with correct spacing for back focus it could be a decent match. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/659716-sw-esprit-100ed-focal-reducer/
  3. Hi. With a 50mm lens M42 will be just a very small smudge. You can get clip in filters for Canon cameras but they are expensive. The 50mm will give you good widefield views of the Milky Way if you are at a nice dark site. Use a tripod and bump the ISO up to 1600 or even 3200 to get the most out of short exposures. Without a mount that tracks you will need to keep them short to avoid stars making trails rather than being points of light. Try 30 seconds with the lens wide open at F2.8. If you get nice sharp stars you could try longer using bulb setting. If they trail then reduce to 20 etc. you could get lovely deliberate star trail picture by pointing towards Polaris and taking a series of images of a minute or more each and combining them in Photoshop or other imaging software.
  4. Hi all. I’ve just fitted he Celestron motor focus unit to my Edge 8 but I’m not getting anywhere with the software. I’ve installed both the Celestron utility for the focused and the ascom driver, but when I plug in the usb lead I get 3 low buzzes from my pc. In device manager it says there are no drivers for it (code 28), but it is named as Celestron focuser. It needs 900ma from the USB port or an external power supply. My usb gives only 500ma so I’m using a 12v dc adapter. The power light on the focus unit is lit. I’m running a windows 7 pc. Does anybody know where the driver is meant to come from? Is it meant to be automatic? There is a link on the Celestron site for a device driver, but clicking it leads to nothing. ‘Anybody know where I can get the driver? Where should it appear in Windows directory structure? I’m not very tech minded, but I’ve tried other usb leads, restarting the pc and reinstalling both the utility program and ascom driver. Any advice much appreciated. Many thanks.
  5. The second image with less aggressive wavelet sharpening is much better. So much depends on good seeing and getting enough raw frames that can be stacked. Good start and keep at it. All Astro imaging is about practice. The more you do the easier it will become but we all strive to get a better image next time and are never satisfied.
  6. Lovely, crisp images. Something for me to aim for. Thanks for posting.
  7. Absolutely. I spent last night concentrating on the Apennine range just because it looked good the way it was lit. I had a look along the terminator but only imaged a few sections and really enjoyed it. Think I’ll try and pick targets based on how well they appear that night and not flit about all over as I have in the past. Over time I’ll still get most sections imaged but I’m really not bothered if I miss a bit.
  8. Pictures of the Feathertouch on Edge800.
  9. The Celestron Edge HD scopes are very nice. If you intend to go into astrophotography they are great for lunar/planetary work. Mounts from Celestron and Skywatcher interface well with software like Stellarium or Cartes de Ciel. I use EQMod with an AZ-EQ6 GT mount and find it very reliable. I’ve run the mount quite happily on a 12v battery when not at home. Be aware that it’s not a lightweight setup and can be a pain at times to cart around. You Ishtar want to budget for a focal reducer if you go down the photography road. Without one, focal lengths are very long giving small field of view and making guiding much more tricky, especially with a DSLR where you can’t use an off axis guider. Hope this helps.
  10. Are you talking about updating the firmware in the handset? This is so rarely needed then I’d just get a mate to do the download etc on a Windows PC. I use an iMac and a MacBook Pro for everything except astronomy. Sadly there seems to be a lot more Windows based applications that I just couldn’t avoid it.
  11. Can you give a bit more info on the camera you intend to use and your general setup please. Thanks
  12. I can take some and pop them up tomorrow. Hope that’s ok.
  13. SOLD - Direct replacement for stock unit. Easy to fit (there’s a video on YouTube). Offers very fine and smooth adjustments. Much better than the stock unit. Only selling as I’m going down the motorized autofocus route now. The unit is about 3 years old and in excellent condition. Cost around £300 new. Looking for £150 and will post free in Europe or UK. Payment by PayPal only please. Please ask if you need any further info. Thank you.
  14. Nice work. Glad you got it in time. Always good to get another one off the list. I was hoping for a good image of M81 last night. Left it all running well with Ha for luminance and rogb subs all set up. Got up this morning to find the guide Star was lost halfway through the red subs. No blue or green. Should have set it to cycle through but you live and learn. Will try and finish it next clear night.
  15. I’ve just gone down the hyper star route. I already had the Edge 800 for lunar and planetary work and use it with the reducer too. It’s a great scope. The hyper star I’m using just for NB imaging and have bought the new f2 filters from Baader. I’ve only had them a couple of weeks so early days, but must say that I think the most important point from My first attempts is that focus is very, very difficult. My Edge has a Feathertouch fitted and it’s still really hard to get a very sharp focus. I think a motorized auto focus will help so I’m about to adapt one I already have to fit the Feathertouch and try it, but I suspect that collimating the Hyperstar lens is more the issue. I think that if you are starting out then a refractor of around 80mm on a good mount would be my advice. The Edge is a good scope but not without issues. Even without Hyperstar you need to think about guiding etc. AP tends to turn into a rather expensive hobby and can be very frustrating. I’ve just moved to SW France where I have good skies far more often than I had in UK and a nice dark site so hoping to get a permanent setup going to get the most out of the gear. Have to say that at the moment, if all else is failing I put my QSI660wsg8 on my 65 or 102mm refractor and am pretty much guaranteed good results. Whichever way you go, good luck.
  16. Adjustable and suitable for many refractors between 500 - 1000mm focal length. 0.8x reducer and good field flattened combined. Hardly used and in mint condition in box. Looking for £85 plus postage, but open to offers. Please contact me if you need any further info. I can provide pictures if needed. Thanks.
  17. Hi. I’ve been waiting 18 months for Baader to supply the 2 inch version of their f2 narrowband filters. They now tell me it will be March next year. With that in mind, does anyone know if I could use 1.25 inch or 31mm filters instead. I’m using an asi1600 mm Pro with Hyperstar on an edge 800 and the Baader filter tray system. I’m worried smaller filters will cause vignetteing but am rather fed up waiting and with Baader’s apparent Indifference. I have been promised various deadlines all of which have come and gone. I’m also looking to get a set of lrgb filters for the same system, so any advice on makes and sizes for that also appreciated.
  18. Thanks. I will check it out. Much appreciated.
  19. Nice image. My asi1600 arrived today. Hope my first go with it is as good. Waiting for filters to arrive and dark skies so it will be a good few weeks yet. Can I ask other owners if they can recommend a suitable power supply for the camera? I see it says 12v and 3A but not sure which tip size the lead would need. Thanks and look forward to seeing more images.
  20. Yeah I really wasn't sure where to post it. The Pulsar adds a lot of delivery cost for me as I need it for France. It was £600 on top. Nexdome is £130 so big saving straight away. Also has the coating to protect from UV damage which I don't think the Skyshed pod has and I prefer the slit design too. I like the Pulsar but with a couple of bays it's more pricey and I really don't want a concrete base. I would like the pier on a small concrete base and the obey on decking. The Nexdome looks much easier to move with me if I move house. It's only the longevity of the plastic that concerns me. A 5 year guarantee is not really very long. If I had better DIY skills I'd probably go the roll-off roof route with a warm room. I mainly image so that would be an option. Again though cost is high if you have to factor in someone assembling it for you.
  21. I don't think 1.5 degrees either way will make much impact, but would have thought the camera should be able to stay closer to the set point. The only time my QSI struggles is when I'm taking darks when the ambient temp is too high and the fan is running flat out trying to hit the set point. For 0 degrees that shouldn't really be an issue. The manual says -40 to -45 for the delta t . I hope this isn't a feature of the camera as I've just ordered one. Anyone else noticed temperature variations of this magnitude with the 1600 cooled?
  22. If you get it I would recommend a Bahtinov mask to help get good focus. Also the program Backyard Eos is very good and very cheap. A free trial is available. Good luck.
  23. Alignmaster software would help you polar align. It has a free trial and then is only about £12 to buy. The trial is fully functional. There's a video on YouTube by Astro shed that demonstrates it. Hope that helps. EQmod which is also free can be used if your scope is on an equatorial mount but also needs a laptop connected.
  24. Brand new. Bought in error. Boxed and mint condition. Cost £280. Looking for £180 plus postage. suits refractors between 500-1000mm focal length. Check out all details on The Widescreen centres website. Thanks.
  25. With the larger tubes, 9.25, 11 and 14 it's not an issue to get the correct back focus but with the 8 inch it isn't possible to get the correct back focus even with adapters according to the Starizona website. HyperStar Lens for 8" Celestron f/2.1 Focal Ratio 425mm Focal Length Largest Usable CCD Chip: 27mm diagonal Fully Multi-Coated Optics Black Anodized Finish T-Threads for CCD Mounting (optional adapters available) Adapter threaded for 2" filters Collimation Adjustable Independent Camera Rotation Backfocus (from mounting thread to focal plane): 39.8mm (1.57") Length (without camera adapter)*: 3.5" Diameter: 3.0" Weight: Less than 1 lbs. Includes Secondary Mirror Holder (Counterweight also included for fork-mounted telescope versions) Made in U.S.A. View the HyperStar C8 for Fork-Mounted OTAs instruction manual (PDF) View the HyperStar C8 for German-Equatorial-Mounted OTAs instruction manual (PDF)
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