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Geordie mc

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About Geordie mc

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    john_mcguigan@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Haute-Vienne, France
  1. Hi. I didn’t have any issues but only used it a few times with a DSLR. Unfortunately I’ve just sold it. Sorry, but thank you for your interest. Regards John
  2. Geordie mc

    Greetings

    Welcome to the group. Hope you enjoy it and good luck with your studies.
  3. All would be okay for Lunar observing. The ST 80 is often used as a guidescope too so if you get into imaging later it might be handy. The Skywatcher Explorer 130 is a nice scope and would give excellent Lunar views. I’m afraid I don’t know the Meade. You are right to think of portability. It’s no good having a big scope you can’t easily setup and use. None of the scopes are likely to give you much in terms of planetary observation. They will give nice views of open star clusters like M45 or bright galaxies/nebula like M31 and M42. If it were me I’d get the Explorer 130. It’s a great little scope on a reasonable mount and if you do decide to upgrade later it will have a decent resale value. Be warned, if you get the astronomy bug it can severely dent your wallet!
  4. You could just enter 00 for the seconds but why would you want to? Presuming you setup in the same place EQMOD and Stellarium save the location for session to session. The more accurate your location the ore accurate your goto. If you change where you setup, an app called Polar Align for iOS will not only help with a Polar Alignment but also display your location including seconds.
  5. Skywatcher original. Been used on my 200PDS. Excellent condition with all components included. Rarely used and now selling my reflector so no longer needed. Designed for use on Skywatchers F5 scopes. £60 including postage from France. PayPal only please.
  6. Boxed with dovetail mounting bracket. Several options for reticle. Brightness adjustment. Simple but effective finder. £35including postage from France. PayPal only please.
  7. 1.25 inch. Boxed with case and end caps. Selling as I rarely do visual work now tending to imaging instead. Good condition. £30 including postage from France. PayPal please
  8. This is made for the 127ED and 152ED refractors. Comes with 2 inch nose adaptor, Canon and Nikon adapters and 127 adaptor. I bought it a few years ago being told it would work with the 102ED. It doesn’t! Only used a couple of times while trying to achieve results but alas no luck so selling. These are over £300 new. Looking for £190 including postage from France. PayPal only please. It is boxed in the original packaging but the box has had to be taped as the glue was useless and it fell apart in days! Thankfully the reducer seems much more sturdy and well made.
  9. Boxed with instructions. Selling as I’m selling my Newtonion so no longer needed. Needs new batteries. It takes the little hearing aid ones. £55 including postage from France. Payment by PayPal please.
  10. Very little use, hence sale. Excellent condition. Boxed with end caps. Slim t-ring for Canon included. £65 including postage from France. Payment by PayPal please.
  11. I’m just getting used to it so it’s early days. I’m happy so far with most aspects but focus at F2 is hard to get really sharp. I’ve just added the Celestron motor focus so hoping that makes things easier. I need to get the correct step size and backlash sorted to make best use of it. Early attempts with SGP have not produced good V curves but it’s improving each attempt. I might try my old FocusMax V3 with it and see if that does any better. I did the calculations for step size so I think it’s a backlash issue. It’s hard finding clear nights here right now to get time to experiment. im using the Baader filter drawer system with their F2 filters (2inch) in Narrowband which seem very good if rather expensive. Still, if I can get it all working properly then the ability to get a lot of data, wide field etc will be worth it. Trouble is, if I get a clear night it’s hard not to just stick the QSI660 on my TSQ65 which is so reliable and gives great results.
  12. Thanks James. That is exactly right. I’ve just watched the video again. The sensitivity increase seems to be somewghat cancelled out by the read noise. It’s discussed starting at about 1hour 7 minutes into the video. The whole video is interesting though. I suppose some of it comes down to how well the software/firmware carries out the binning. I only use my 1600 cmos on Hyperstar where I can get frame and focus data with very short exposures without binning so I never use it. I’m happy with it and clearly a lot of others are too as it’s a very popular camera. I think one point that doesn’t seem to come across in the video is cost. My QSI660wsg-8 was more than double the cost of the ASI1600 even allowing for adding a filter wheel and Off axis guider. The pixels are a similar size but there’s a lot less of them! If the 1600 had been around 10 years ago I wouldn’t own the QSI. On the other hand I’ve had 10 years of very reliable use from the QSI. It’ll be interesting to see if the 1600 proves to be as reliable. I think it’s a great time for Astro imagers. There are more affordable cameras and scopes with better guide camera choices. Some great scopes and mounts. I’m even thinking of eventually getting a OSC like the ASI294mc pro so I can do colour on Hyperstar in one unattended session and maybe add Ha from the 1600 another night. If I was still looking at £3000 plus for a good OSC that would never be a justifiable option. ‘That said, someone please stop me buying gear! What is it with this hobby? There’s always something else you “need”.
  13. I don’t know enough about it to be honest, but he definitely said you cannot bin a cmos chip. It’s done in software and you don’t get the same increase in sensitivity you get with CCD’s. I’ll try and find the link to the video. It was an Astro imaging channel livestream. The 1600mm cool has been fine on my Hyperstar. The issue for me has always been focus at F2. Such a narrow zone. Hoping the new Celestron focus motor will improve things. I only shoot narrowband with it as I have no LRGB filters for the Baader filter drawer system. I’m using the 2inch F2 narrowband filters from Baader. I have some 1.25 inch filters in LRGB in my QSI but don’t want to keep taking it apart to swap to the 1600. I may invest in the 5 position filter wheel later in the year and give them a try on the Celestron with focal reducer but I’m not splashing out for new filters for Hyperstar use. I will try to post images when I can, but I’ve moved house (and country) twice in 14 months and am finding time for Astro rather tight. I’ll just get things sorted and we’ll be at the point where it doesn’t really get dark here. I’m at 46 degrees latitude now. I think another 2-3 weeks and I’m done until August. On the plus side I might have my pier concreted in place by then. Depends on when I’m allowed out. Rules very strict in France.
  14. Just came across this post while looking for something else but found it interesting. I’ve heard that Sony are discontinuing CCD chip production in 5 years time. CMOS seems destined to become the only option but cmos chips are also improving rapidly. Same guy said you can’t bin a cmos chip, it’s done in software hence the lack of improvement in sensitivity. He still thinks the Sony 694 chip is the best he’s used. I’ve got that chip in my QSI660 and have the ASI1600 cmos on my Hyperstar rig. I now feel compelled to try imaging with this on my Edge 8 with the reducer and with the QSI and comparing results. Obviously the field of view will be different but will be interesting to see what results I get. If I can fit it in before the light nights arrive I’ll post some images. I’ll be using Baader filters but not sure wether to go NB or Broadband. I’ll need to see what looks a good target.
  15. I’m afraid previous posts are correct. Good polar alignment is vital if you want to have reliable goto and unless you leave the mount in one place you’ll need to do it every time you set up. There is an app called Polar Align that shows you where you need to put Polaris in your polarscope. My setup is computer controlled now but I always did the 3 star alignment through the handset. Use an eyepiece with a wide field of view when you do this such as a 40mm. Even then the star may not appear in view. This is where you need your finder scope to be be reliably lined up with your main scope. You can do this during the day using a distant object. It takes awhile to do all this the first few times but you get better and quicker with practice.
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