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Everything posted by Pingster

  1. I have stayed exclusive to Binoviewing since a member here recommended it to me Im sire about 7years have passed now. I only use the 31nag every so often just for a quick view just to remind myself how much better binos are. Im keeping the 31ethos... so one day i can bino with 2in pairs
  2. Hey there. I know Baader is working on a new maxbright with no official release date. But is the Mrk5 soon to be replaced as well. As im seein a few for sale and dont want to buy if its about to be replaced. Thanks!
  3. Jetstream, supercharging does have benefits, the main one is to have wide FOV eyepieces ie 24mm Panoptics that dont vignette. This aspect Denises work achieved their goal. Even the WO, benfited greatly with a much more pleasing clean "viewport". Richochet, I have two of Denises Black binos. They are basically white Zeiss Binos Painted black. One is very old as looking down the prisms i can see brown rust. The Willems Optics Bino comes with an amazing x2 dinky barlow. Ive compared it with my x2 TV Powermate... and tho the PM is only slightly better, thw WO makes it look like an over engineered product. I believe i own very high end accessories so its not them to blame, as i am able to reach focus without having to use any barlows if i desire. This is achieved by using a Baader T2 Prism Diagonal which as a super short light path. Highburymark, im please you agree with the Mrk V been very obliviously better than the WO. Thats why i am unhappy with my Black Binos from Denis for Astro us. They are not obviously sharper than the WO. To be clear, they are excellent for H-Alpha with a Quark as they dont suffer from polarisation. My WO suffers from polarisation, more so than my Mrk V if memory serves me correctly. I too am eagerly waiting for the new maxbrights. Tho knowing the Mrk V has superior sharpness.... once you go Mrk V you cant go back... The black binos are collimatable, ill have to ask denis for instructions for them as they are not out of collomination by quite a bit. Werid considering ive never knocked them, the Mrk V and WO have never lost collomination by themselves like this. Just to clarify, I made the bad decision of swapping my Mrk V with Denises Black Binos based on his advice. Personally i dont think he uses his binos for Astro, because if he did he would never choose them over a Mrk V. Also because he would have noticed the false star issue which makes them completely unsuitable for Astro use. I have two of his Black Binos so its not a one off issue. Ideally he should have just supercharged my Mrk V as i originally wanted. And offered me a Black bino (for daytime use and H-Alpha) as a separate sale. I wish to emphasise even tho his judgement is wrong about his binos being superior to Mrk V, hes very passionate about what he does and i truly believe he advises his customers with best interest. The downsides about supercharging. Even tho Denis insists there are no downsides there are. 1. Reflections of bright targets when not inside the eyepiece viewport. This is really obvious if the lenses, OVC's, correctors, barlows are not perfectly clean. 2. And most damning. Where Denis machines the casing to superchage... the hole is cut so big, the prisms no longer cover the "hole". So dust and air can enter the bino! The biggest and most disturbing problem is the inside prisms misting up during the night! None of my binos before suffered from this issue. I fear over time the inside of the binos will become dirty and require serving. The misting issue has ruined several night observing sessions. They have never misted during daytime use. Over time i can see the prisms deep inside the bino becoming water stained from misting. 3. Denis uses a really think black grease. This stuff is near impossible to get off. Its inside the eyepiece holders and took me a lot of work to clean up as initially every time i swapped out eyepieces the barrel would be ever so slightly covered with black grease. So far its not transferred to the prisms. Do i recommend his black binos? Definitely, but ONLY for H-Alpha use and daytime scoping. Ill write to Baader to see if they have plans to fix the polarisation in future Mrk V's. That would make it my dream bino.
  4. Hi everyone. Ive been off astronomy for 2 years due to moving home. 2 years ago i sent off my beloved Mrk V baader binos so Denis for a supercharge. I told him how i love them but i noticed with H-alpha the views in each barrel differ. He said its cos the Mrk V suffer from polarization (hes indeed correct). He offered that i could part exchange my mrk v for one of his supercharged "black" binos and they had next to zero polaraization (again he is correct). For the sun + quark they work great. However i am dismayed with their night time performance. Fistly they have a yellow tint to the view, where as the mrk v were very neutral. Secondly they suffer from what i can only describe a drawing "a secondary faux star, below and to the right of the target star being viewed". This only happens with brightest stars like Vega. Thirdly tho he said they were slightly less bright than the mrk v, i did not occure to me what a huge disavantage it would mean, as at the time i was doing mainly solar and day time "scoping". The difference in brightness is even obvious dayyime use, the WO even with polarization have this pop to the view which Denises binos lack. And lastly most devastating... is that optically they are nowhere as clear and not pin sharp like the mrk v. Before the swap i would compare my mrk V verse my excellent Williams optics bino. The WO are superb, but the difference in sharpnesd and clarity especially at higher mags was obvious and immediate. The mrk v simply toasts the WO by what visually looks like 25percent. However comparing Denises Black bino to the WO i struggle to work out which is better, and quite often i think the WO is sharper. Denis is not a crook or dishonest imho. Hes a very passionate uy. But imho hes completely wrong about the optical quality of his black binos FOR ASTRO use. So i would like to ask, ive been away astronomy for 2 years. Is there a chinese full aperture bino avaliable? Has the baader mrk v had a "tweak" to fix the polarization? Im considering buying a new mrk v as i miss it dearly. I know what you are thinking... only an idiot would part with a mrk v, im an idiot.
  5. Ill be scared to whip out my frac in a field full of gaint dobs that can do go deeper ????
  6. Im currently using a Baader UV/IR Cut-Filter before a Quark, 127mm ES APO. Everything seems fine. However i have noticed that the a lot of heat still passes thru the filter. I know the Quark can handle the heat, its the UV im mainly hoping to reduce as thats bad for our eyes. I did some reading and i read that a supplier discovered the Baader UV/IR Cut-Filter was actually poor at reducing the heat, and that they discovered the Baader H-alpha 35nm CCD Filter does a much better job. Looking at the photos of the filter it looks extremely red! I assume this would greatly change the look of the sun? Has anyone has experience using the 33nm filter in Quark for visual? I am thinking 2in 35nm filter before the Quark, and one 1.25in Baader UV-IR Blocker on the barrel of the eyepiece would provide max protection outside of having a full external ERF?
  7. Yeah ive seen the video of the stargate setup... it really appeals to me as ill keep the mirror box and rocker pernamentally setup for extra fast setup. I wished they had made it all from aluminium.
  8. Thanks for the replies, Stu, ive never seen them with my quark ever. 2 years ago i went to the star party in Norfolk and some folks kindly let me view thru their double stack solar scopes. The cracks looked amazing, yet ive never replicated it on my quark yet. Its good to know its possible and that its a surface feature thats does not always happen. Owmuchonomy, i think i saw that actually. It was the only dark feature on the sun, a tiny dark crack. At the time i thoight nothibg of it as it was so small compared to what i have seen in double stacks. So that very positive news. I look forward to trying again tomorrow and bag my first big surface prom! Thanks for all the replies ?
  9. Ive got the chromo version. I hope to see the cracks soon. As ive used the quark about 20 tomes in total and never ever seen them. Ive seen awesome proms on the edges everytime
  10. Ive had a quark for over 2 years now. Took it out today. Proms looked fantastic. But i relized... the quark or at least mine does not provide the surface "dark cracks" ive seen on dedicated solar scopes. I know these are infact proms on the disc surface appearing as "cracks". The only surface detail is like this photos but x3 less contrasty. Is it even possible to see the black cracks like in this photo? Im refering to visual thru the eyepiece.
  11. M31, i often hear reports that it looks under whelming becuase you cant fit it in the eyepiece. And that one needs to get an lower powered eyepiece with a ultrawide fov. I feel advice like this can lead new astronomers to waste a lot of money. Imo, if you want to get the whole of M31 in, look at it with a pair of binoculars. Cheap and simple. And what you see, its not going to get much better even if you spenf thousands. With M31, spending your money on eyepieces wont improve the view of it or increase the detail. Becuase in even the best quality scopes, it mostly looks like a faint grey oval with a slightly brighter core. The only other way to get the dust lanes and a slight "textured" detail on the bands is to got to somewhere truely dark like wales and use a 16in dob or bigger. Again even like that most people won't be amazed by it (as it still will not look anything like photos). Yet us long time astronomers will scream "wow" becuase we have spent years seeing it as nothing more than a blob. ?
  12. Hi Peter, so do you mean in the UK the theres no more resolution gain by going from 16 to 20in and that the gain wpuld.be purely light gather power, ie brighter DSOs? The ES are on gen 2, and ive read about the various improvements including all Alu constrcution. The new ES 20in could well be a gen 3 as such.
  13. Does anyone here have hands on eyepiece experience of both of these scopes? Right now i have a 16in skywatcher flextube. I love it. The mirror is amazing and bests every APOs i own. I actually cant imagine how a "premium" mirror can best it. Wanting to move up to 20in. I have two options the ES upcoming 20in or the current SW 20in. The cost of each brand differer a fair bit, and i assume the difference is in the cost of the mirror. Or am i wrong and both brands use the same mirror manufacture to the same specs? I would hate to go to ES becuase of the lighter weight and cheaper price but hate the mirror? My gut ibstint is to go for the 20in goto skywatcher, but its weight is a killer, and so is the eyepiece height becuase of the extra goto. Ive got super good eyes and and told i see stuff that normal people are never fusy about ?
  14. Wonder if anyone can help, I have x2 baader Click Locks on both of my refractors. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-clicklock-m68-clamp.html Ive only used them a few times, yet the one has semi failed and the other completely failed. 1. The first unit locks the item, yet turns past its "Lock Point" with a crunching sound. 2. The second locks the item, but free spends without resistant 360 constantly. Firstly i cant even remove them from the refractors as theres no way of gripping them to unscrew. Has anyone had this issue before and how can i fix them? Thanks!
  15. The 127mm Carbon FCD 100 is a fine scope. I also have the 80mm version. I hex focuser is very strong, but i must admit i hate the way the eyepieve view moves about when focusing, this make fine focus very difficult. Ive directly compared the 80mm Carbon to a TS 80mm APO, and i have to say the TS80mm's view is that little bit better. If you are a picky observer only the TS will do. Keep in mind the TS weights in at about 4.5kg and the ES80mm 3.5kg. As a super finder the ES is fantastic for this reason. For daytime viewing. the ES i found has a much cleaner and clear picture than the TS. Would i sell the TS? I dont think so, tho i will use the ES more.... for critical observing the TS has that extra bit of resolution. Ive looked thru a 100mm Tak, compared to my 127mm carbon, from memory here.... the tak resolved blue stars much better.... while in the ES the stars are predominately white looking. I love the 127 ES, will i get a Tak in the future? Of course i will. For that extra definition in star colors i will. Is the 127mm ES good? Yes its a very good scope. In a dark site crusing the milky way is lovely... bright DSOs such as Androm, Dumbelll Neb, Ring Neb.... look beautifully clear against a nice dark sky. Its a very fine scope.... but it will make you wonder what a take will show. The moon with binos in the 127es is beautifully sharp, probably the sharpest/best contrast ive ever seen. One day will compare it side to side to my 12in SW Dob and report back.
  16. Steve, i agree, they should make scopes with everything beautifully preplanned so you can add it later if you wish, but it still looks cracking with every mod. Sometimes i wonder if i enjoy stargazing as much as i move tweeking and modding my gear to perfection. I guess i enjoy both aspects very much and i love talking to people about their mods.
  17. All my gear starts off besutiful. Then i add loads of gear and it turns into a monster. The positive side is that to passerd buy it looks like you are some kind of pro astronomer. Im refering to my dob here. So far my refractors tend to be used as they are as they dont suffer dew as badly. One day when i build my own dob... i dream it will be worthy to be on the cover of Astro Design magazine.... and still all have the usual freakshow attachments.
  18. I have both the 16in and 12in Flextube. Dont know why they call them flextubes as the hold collomination pretty well and certainly dont 'flex' like a banana. Ive had the them both for about 5 to 6 years, i think optically they seem as good as the day i got em. The 12in is as Swamp Thing likes to say, "Is the Goldilocks size". It lets you see everything the 16in will, just with less detail but its amazingly transportable. I think the 14in would not be hand liftable comfortably by one person, and tbh would not be worth the strain considering its light grasp is not than much better than the 12". Im in my 40's. The flextube OTA can be removed from the base. I can easily carry each part and place inside my car alone (12in). And setting it up takes about 5 to 10mins. Its a size that attracts attention... but not so much as the huge 16in beast... where people comstantly hassle you for jokes. The 16in is set on casters and stays at home most of the time. But when i travel to dark site i simply roll it into my van (Tail Lift). I can do it alone. But as im getting older i find it much harder than 6 years ago. I will never sell the 12in. But i would love to sell the 16in for the 18in Stargate Just because it can be transported in a car and not a van.... driving up the mountains of wales is scary in a van! Ived looked thru many scopes. And tbh... ive had better views in my Skywatcher 16in flextube than any other scope. Their mirrors are probably as good as a "premium" brand. I really dont think you can see any difference. The 16in mirror shows better detail than my best APO.... thats why i cant imagine how it can be much bettered. 1. Setting both up is really simple. The instructions dont have any errors as far as i remember. The 16in was my first scope and i built it no probs. Collimation is easy. The way they preinstall the mirrors makes life very easy. 2. Get a astro Zap shroud immediately. Dont cheap out! It saves you if your drop stuff, blocks light and prevents Dew. 3. Make a simple foam due sheild for the secondary cage. As thin and as light foam as possible. Even black paper will do! It blocks light and is one is very effective at preventing dew. 4. Install a 12v Computer fan on the bottom primary cage. You can power it by a modded USB cable and USB battery pack or a 12v car battery. It prevents due on the primary and also cools down the scope super fast. I have the van running at full speed at 12v all night and so far ive noticed no vibration at all and im a very fussy observer. 5. The secondary will most likely dew before the primary in most cases. So buy a secondary dew heater. I got a kendrick on from altair astro. Its kept my secondry completely dew free. And it runs of a 12v car battery. You will get perfectly good views without point 4 & 5. If you do have dew issues then do it.... ive had such good views since installing them.
  19. Wow thanks for the exsplaination. Stunning photo as always olly So just to clarify. In the close up of the nebular.... none of the stars in that picture are visible at all in the eyepiece? And its done with an 80mm to 100mm APO. Amazing.
  20. Just got an email from starlight saying my 3in FT is not instock and they are making me one and it will take 3-6weeks! I had no idea this was a "on demand item. Insane.
  21. OMG Off topic... the red target... you cant even see that in the eyepiece.... so how on earth do you focus so well on it?
  22. See this angry skywatcer anodized aluminum junk? See the marks on it? Every one of them revels its nasty history nicking, marking, denting bits of my gear. The only mark its making now is a bulg in my trash bag. Replaced it with a happy smiling, Astro gear hugging soft touch rubber knob. Mentally i already feel de-stressed, Bliss ?
  23. Measure carefully as i orignally measured them 1mm in dai too small, lucky i reaized before i ordered. You can get any size you need. And so far ive not found a product that did not work. http://www.vital-parts.co.uk/soft-touch-lobe-style-4923-p.asp I love them. Remeber to apply silicon lubricant on thread.
  24. May sound silly, but using these knobs... they feel like the feathertouch focuser of knobs. Pure bliss.
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