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Everything posted by fwm891

  1. Hi, With a night of reasonable seeing here on Sun/Mon I added more data and decided to pull all my data on IC5146 (Cocoon) into one image. The image has been stacked in DSS and tweaked in PS CS3. 43 frames were used. No flats, darks or bias frames in this stack. ISO in most cases was 800 with sub exposure lengths varying from 3 - 10 min. Scope 8-inch f4 imaging Newtonian, guided with an ST80, QHY5 and PHD. Mounted on NEQ6 Pro, EQMOD. As this object gets higher and longer nights hopefully I can drop a few of the poorer frames... Added second image - full frame and re-processed in PS CS3 using
  2. One doesn't make mistakes, one simply changes their mind...
  3. Gina, What if you lowered the floor by lowering the joists, you wouldn't have to sacrifice any building length as you could put a piece of 3x3 on the outside of the support beam (at each end of the build) and run your floor over that...
  4. Like yesyes's idea about dropping the joists, most building merchants sell beam hangers/cradles for just that purpose. So long as your flooring clears your pier base it sounds good... Engineering Supplies for model engineers | lathe and workshop equipment, Myford Boxford or Taps and Dies | Reamers | Tracy Tools Ltd Uk Axminster are OK I use them for most of my woodworking kit (making acoustic and electric guitars + DIY) but find they're expensive and have a narrower range of engineering bits - unless you want a lathe or milling machine... Francis
  5. Gina - Tracy Tools (in Devon) should be able to supply the tapping drill and taps to suit the metric threads. (I stand corrected about the gussets should have looked closer at the preceding posts...) Another thought: If you are running your roof over the warm room then can you not put either lift off or hinged sections to the top of the wall(s) of the obsy part - they would only need lifting folding down in the area you are viewing when skies allow viewing at low altitude? Francis
  6. Gina, That's a shame. I would go with the enlarged roll off roof and lower your fixed walls to allow your 15º FOV. You can easily strengthen the run-off roof parts with plywood gusset pieces. They will provide stiffness without increasing the weight significantly. It would be financially cheaper and easier to construct. Francis
  7. Looking really good Gina - I can only dream of horizons like that ! Clear skies. Francis
  8. Gina, 10 mm isn't a lot of space above your pier block especially as a floor of this type is liable to bow down when you walk on it. It might be worth thinking about doubling up the joist across the pier base by putting two side-by-side (you could then reduce the vertical section of the paired joist and put small blocks under either end to restore the height). The rest of the floor area will be fine. It might be a bit belt-n-braces but if you intend walking on the floor while using the scope you don't want a joist bearing even temporarily on the pier base. Francis
  9. Gina - you can always lay a piece of 2 x 1 (or similar) on top of your joists just to give a bit more clearance... Francis
  10. That's the profile at the bottom of the opening screen - NOT the displayed profile in the above photos... Francis
  11. Happy Birthday Gina - Feet up today then!!! Francis
  12. Your right but look at the end profile of the roof - it (airflow) has a longer path across the top surface than if it follows the underside (even a thin roof covering has some thickness), airflow under the roof is more likely to become turbulent because the underside is hollow further reducing its speed and increasing lift... Francis (I'm prepared to be shot down on this one)
  13. Great stuff Earl. When your roof is open have you anyway of securing it? Just asking because the profile is semi-airplane wing section and might provide good 'lift' in breezy conditions Francis
  14. Quote: "Yes, I see. I was under the impression that solid wood was better but maybe only if it's a hardwood. Looks like there is little to choose between treated chipboard (to P5 standard) and treated solid softwood or treated softwood plywood. The floor will be protected from direct wet and will be well ventillated so maybe I'm being too cautious. Tongued and grooved panels would mean better joins (even if there are more of them). And of course, as you say, so much easier to handle." Remember all timber expands and contract with changes in it's moisture content. If you get kiln dried or insta
  15. Chris, Thank you lots and lots:hello2:. 1.23n sorted all the problems slews now go where they should and the mount doesn't just spin... Posted comments on the EDMOD group too. Thanks again for your efforts Francis:D
  16. Hi, I've just added a HiTech-Astro EQ Direct controller to this set-up so from my earlier problem of not being able to get a connection via the handset have shifted to one of controlling the scope. I have Ascom 6 loaded, EQMOD V123k CdC V3.3 on my IBM Thinkpad runs XP Pro SP3. Firstly I go through the selection options and get green lights for mount connection and tracking. If I ask the mount via the EQMOD NSEW buttons to slew it moves in those directions at the selected speed. However, if I select a star and ask the mount to slew via the slew control it moves in RA only and just continues to
  17. Gina, Just seen you with the blue tractor on the webcam - you have my full admiration with this project:icon_salut:. Clear skies (day & night) to you. Wish I could help Francis
  18. Hi Gina, I was concerned because I believe in an earlier part of the thread you were worried about handling large sheets of plywood - hence the suggestion of the smaller loft sheets. Although they are chipboard provided they are treated in some way or bought ready treated (your PTG will also need some form of treatment for moisture/insect damage) when installed over a vapour barrier they will last just the same as normal softwood flooring (which is all chipboard is). The suggestion of a covering for the upper surface was purely as a moisture preventative, because with the best will in the worl
  19. Gina, You could use the smaller sheet material used for boarding out loft spaces. They would need some treatment and a layer (or two) of polythene under them to prevent moisture uptake from the ground below. They have T&G edges so they interlock with individual pieces being about 4ft x 2 ft in old money and 18 mm thick. Whatever flooring you use make sure the load bearing joists under them do not come into contact with the pier slab. These sheets are fairly hard wearing but would probably need a non moisture retentive covering. e.g. lino? Francis
  20. One thing you can do in PS is create a duplicate layer, switch off the original layer and work on the copy. When you think you have improved things just switch visibility between the worked and original layers... Better still save your original as something else, reopen the original and leave it visible next to the resaved copy while you work... I like using adjustment layers so the base image remains unchanged. Francis
  21. Chris, Not at all sure what's going on at the moment. Tried to reconnect this morning but didn't want to know, whether in CdC or Stellarium. Re-loaded drivers (Celestron unified, usb/serial cable), no change, uninstalled Stellarium and reinstalled and everything kicked into place via Stellarium and CdC. Shut down left for a while and tried restarting again - nothing! The message on pressing 'connect' is to the effect that it can't find a Celestron scope connected to the port... Location, com port, clock time ++ all checked between PC and scope handset. Also setting handset to PC Direct made no
  22. The shocking pink will show up well on the web cam!!!
  23. Hi Chris, I think its going to go that way - it failed again tonight. What I didn't want to do was either strip down the controllers for the NEQ6 pro as its on a fixed pier and essentially all hard wired in, or duplicate kit that will only get used a few times each year... The easiest will be to duplicate by getting another PC-Direct unit or build my own! Not had any problems with the NEQ6 Pro so that really speaks for itself. Francis
  24. Me again - just re-started everything (3 times) and its working! don't know why, don't know if it will start again later today or not:confused: All i've done is restart first the mount and did a one star alignment (just accepted where-ever it was pointing) then opened CdC / telescope / ascom / selected celestron and clicked ok and got green lights for connection and tracking!!!:D:D Just need to sort out the noisy motors now...
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