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Everything posted by jgs001

  1. I'd suggest, rather than spending money now, as a start, get a dovetail, fit a camera quick release plate system to it, and mount your camera with lens directly onto the AltAz mount. The light weight will help relieve the pressure on the drives. Make sure that the balance is a little to the rear as it'll keep the drives fully engaged. Even in Alt Az you can achieve passable images, up to 2 minutes low in the east and west. Take a look at the posts in It's not ideal, can be frustrating, but it's gear you have.
  2. that is indeed an option, but you won't really have the detail doing that, if you're trying to get any surface detail... best I can offer, try it, and see what it looks like. As for the illusion that the moon appears larger, that is true, and it's a deception, that if I recall correctly, your brain plays as putting the moon near the horizon allows you to get a sense of scale with the surroundings... I'm not aware of a method of being able to do what you're looking for any other way, I'd suggest trying to ensure you keep the same exposure settings, and do a gentle photoshoppery... If you really wanted a very detailed moon, you could grab a shot with the newt, and use that with the landscape... with some moon resizing.
  3. The 55-250 isn't going to get you that close... as you say, for close up use the newt. But, the 55-250 may allow you to capture a better framing of the moon with the scenario, and given the larger size on the sensor that the higher zoom will give you, will produce some detail.
  4. That's a difficult one to answer... Typically, around the 50mm mark on a full frame (35mm on a crop sensor) is considered to be about the same as you're eye sees. I presume though you wanted to get closed than that. You could look at the EFS55-250, that would give you a closed view, and you would be able to get some detail on the moons surface.
  5. If you can stretch to it, then go for a macro lens. They have an incredibly flat field and thus work really well for Astro. The nifty fifty needs to be stopped to around f/4 or f/5.6 to get the best out of it for Astro.
  6. Ok, one quick installation later... It's called groups. When you add an image to the main group, a new group tab will appear next to it. Click on that, and add the next nights data to that... I think, you want to avoid using the Main group, as any calibration frames in the main group, will be applied to all groups.. so drop in one image file to get Group 1 active, then, after adding everything to group 1, remove it again.
  7. Alistair, that all depends on the tool you're using to stack. It's been a while, and I don't have it handy, but as I recall... DSS lets you load sets of data in, as that, sets of data... with tabs across the bottom... so you load up each set of lights and calibration frames form each session into a set, add a new set, and continue like that. I've done it (albeit a long time ago) with 3 nights worth of data.
  8. jgs001

    Hello again

    Thanks all... Ant, mostly ? if that counts. It's going to take me a while to get caught up with stuff... I suspect things have moved on a fair way with tech and equipment since I last looked at any of it,
  9. jgs001

    Hello again

    It's been quite a long while, so figured I ought to say Hello to everyone all over again... Sorry for my absence... but hopefully, normality (whatever the hell that is) is returning, and I'll be able to get on, and do some Astro stuff again. So, Hello everyone. I've been into Astronomy for over 10 years now, started observing with Binoculars, and progressed up to being an image, although I often do a bit of one whilst the other is active.
  10. First real opportunity I've had in ages to do any imaging or astronomy of any kind, and decided (perhaps foolishly you might think) to try a stack. My last attempt blew up registax, but with the help of PIPP (and some fairly massive cropping of each image image in PIPP), registax didn't expire in a heap of bit dust, and completed the processing. 22 images, Canon 60d, Sigma 150-600, each image, 1/30s, ISO250 f/14 at 600mm.
  11. Managed to pick up a cheap set on Amazon. Not the best, but they won't know, as they have nothing to compare with.
  12. This was really just a test, I wanted to see what my new 'toy' could do on the moon (see for the others)
  13. Dry, that's a very kind offer, if I can't find anything suitable, it would be useful to have a couple for other scout activities (I'm running an astronomy night in January for example.
  14. Thanks chaps. I didn't realise astroboot was still going. Will take a look
  15. Hi all, it's been quite a while since I've been on here, but I'm looking for some advice please. My lad is off to scout camp in wales, and whilst I don't mind him taking my ST80, I really don't want him taking my Baader EP's with him as each cost more than the scope did. Can anyone suggest a reasonable, yet cheap EP set that he can take with him please? (I know you get what you pay for, but as most of them have probably never looked through a 'scope, and I want them to take something that doesn't matter if it gets dropped...)
  16. The challenge here, Binoculars and the views they offer, and which is best for each person is really an individual choice.. I have to admit, that I started with Celestron (12x50's) and I was impressed with them initially, but when I got a pair of Bresser 10x50, I much preferred the views. I find the Bressers produced better contrasts compared to the Celestron. This is the pair I have. I find them lighter too, and this makes it easier to use them. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bresser-1151050-Binoculars-Hunter-10x50/dp/B00140G1I0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454579121&sr=8-1&keywords=bresser+hunter+10x50 As I said, Bino's are really a personal choice.. If you can try out a few different brands etc, then I would suggest you do before you buy.
  17. You need to start at the bottom and work up... It's all well and good buying a really expensive scope, but if you can't mount it solidly, you will struggle to get good results. The little ED80 is an incredibly good scope for the money, and it's small and lightweight, which makes mounting it simpler. But, I agree with Stu, get Steve's book first, and read it... a very worthwhile investment.
  18. Take a look at http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/36308-basic-widefield-with-a-camera-and-tripod/. It's something I wrote up for a photography group. Realistically, with that setup, you're going to want to use the lens wide open with the ISO as high as you can, and try and deal with the noise in processing, to try and get as much data as possible in the short time available. As a rough rule of thumb, with a crop sensor camera on a static tripod, use exposure time in seconds = 400/focal length You should be able to capture something useful on the very wide field images, and it's all good learning experience with focusing, capturing and processing.
  19. You'll be able to print out bigger, but the sensor has smaller pixels... I have a 60d (18Mp) but use my 450d (12Mp) for astro imaging due to this. Basically, larger pixels should produce less noise than smaller pixels. The main benefit to a newer body, the 350d, does, from memory, always have the amp powered up during a long exposure, which causes heat bloom in the sensor, red patches in the image on one side. Darks will remove it, as they will have the same thing, but the 400d and up, do not suffer from this.
  20. Are you happy with the 350d? Is it producing images that you're happy with? If so, then I'd suggest keep using it. If there's some reason that your dissatisfied with it, or it's not working properly anymore, then look into upgrading. Then the key is your budget. It sounds like you're on a tight ish budget, in which case, a 450d or 1000d from a reputable retailer would do an excellent job. https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/used-equipment/used-photo-and-video/used-digital-slr-cameras/used-canon-digital-slr-cameras/
  21. I started out with an ST80 on a Celestron NexStar AltAz mount... firstly visual, then Imaging. It can be done, if you're prepared to put the effort in. It's worth keeping an eye on ebay, I picked up a new(ish) NexStar 60 for £42, although I have never actually used the scope itself.
  22. You may be too well balanced. For alt az you want the system to be slightly tail heavy so the mount drive is always engaged. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  23. If have to say Canon. There is much wider and greater support for canon, I believe that's because canon release the API's. Most of us use Canon cameras, so there's more knowledge of the Cameras for AP. Either way, both are good for daylight. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
  24. Typically, if the automated tools don't work, I've used iMerge to complete the mosaic. iMerge is also useful during the capture stage to ensure no missing bits. Have a look at http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/66552-making-a-lunar-mosaic/
  25. Have a look at http://www.mpbphotographic.co.uk/used-equipment/used-digital-slr-cameras/used-canon-digital-slr-cameras/?keyword=&curr_min_price=&curr_max_price=&min_price=0&max_price=3300&out_of_stock=&view_all=&filter=price+ASC The 450d, 1000d and 1100d are good options (I have a 450d). The moon will make a good target for that scope and a dSLR.
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