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Everything posted by jgs001

  1. That's exactly it almcl... The groups allow for stacking sets from different nights with appropriate calibration frames for each night. However, the first group (main) is used for all other groups, so if you have something in there that is for one specific night, you should remove it and put those into their own group. if you have something like a master bias frame (for example) that doesn't change, you could put that in the main group, then it will be applied to all other groups. If not, add one image file to main, to open group 1, then remove it from main.
  2. Robin, you can push to about 2 minutes, when the target is low in the east or west, but the higher it is, and the further North/South, the shorter the subs get to avoid the rotation. I don't recall the numbers now, but I bounced on this quite hard in my early days using a Nexstar SLT mount.
  3. Very well done Michael, Congratulations and well deserved.
  4. If I may, I'd like to thoroughly recommend this book. I don't read biographies normally... just not my thing. This one is, IMHO, well thought out, well written and very engaging. My eldest brought it for my birthday earlier in the year, and I really enjoyed it. I don't want to say too much as it may spoil things, but it's about the year Scott Kelly was aboard the ISS and his journey to get there.
  5. Nasa has found a number of planets in the TOI-270 system that, based on the reporting I read, seem very interesting, and quite close. https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/gadgets-and-tech/news/nasa-planet-new-tess-satellite-star-solar-system-astronomy-discovery-a9025621.html
  6. If anyone fancies a new ringtone or notification tone.. NASA has made a number of 'soundbites' available in MP3 and MP4r formats https://www.nasa.gov/connect/sounds/index.html
  7. Picked mine up yesterday. Didn't see the Saturn 5 and the rod poyle book... May have to place another order. Thanks again Paul
  8. Alan, Yep, done it myself. Use the batches in the same way as exposure lengths.
  9. You get used to it Paul . Mine is available for pickup now, but will have to await the weekend.
  10. Steve, you will need to stack the AVI's into a single image before using iMerge or MS ICE to complete the picture. I used to use registax, but changed to AVIStacks as it was so much faster and easier to use.
  11. I've used various services, and most of the time they are pretty good. If you can though, it's worthwhile getting the printer preview proof settings for your editing application, and then you can 'view' the image on screen as it's expected to print. I found a couple showed as being much darker than expected.
  12. Thanks, ordered this one... and the Apollo 11 one... same price, and a nice matching set
  13. The nifty fifty is the cheap Canon EF 50 mm prime lens. It's cheap, lightweight, and yet, has amazingly good optics with a fast f/1.8. Brand new is £99. https://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/Canon/Canon-EF-lenses/Canon-EF-50mm-f1.8-STM-Lens
  14. Enjoy the Nifty, it's a craking little lens, I found f/4 was needed to get a reasonably good result. I'd suggest looking at a macro lens (make sure it's a true macro, and not a macro labelled zoom) for Astro, given the price of the Samyang. Macro lenses are designed to be optically flat and, thus can be used wide open without issue... I have a used Sigma 150, and it's a belter. The canon 100mm macro can be had for £120 for example
  15. I have an older IDAS (not tested under the new lighting we have yet) and use it with unmodded 450d. I cannot give you any idea of the quality of my skies (although, I understand they are pretty good).
  16. If you have at least 12 subs, statistical stacking should remove them, it worked great for airplane trails for me.. however, that's still a huge number of satellites, and without some way to 'bring down' the dead ones is going to make the orbits very cluttered.
  17. That looks excellent... I may have to try my macro lens out... see what that can grab.
  18. I'm gonna guess that the camera sensor was not totally parallel to the wall, as you have a little more barrel distortion on the right hand corners than the left. The focus, to my eye, does look a little softer to the right of the image, that might be due to the distortion effects, but... For focussing, if you have an android device (tablets work really well) with a USB OTG port... connect your camera and use "DSLR controller". This allows you to use the liveview and really zoom in on a much larger screen. You can't use all it's features with the Samyang, as it's fully manual focus, but the app will allow you to remotely control the focus of the lens directly at varying speeds, and works really well. You may need to look into back button focusing to decouple the focus activation from the shutter button if you want to give this a go.
  19. Try mounting the camera setup on a tripod, and take a picture of a wall (boring I know ;)). It may help to highlight any issues... it does seem, from that shot that the focus on the right of the image may be a little better than the left.
  20. jgs001

    Hello again

    Thanks all... If I'm honest... I'm still struggling with navigating the site at the moment... only just found the quick way to find your own threads
  21. As you're using the telescope as a camera lens, when you connect your camera, the FOV of a 600mm scope will be the same as the FOV of a 600mm camera lens on the same camera body.
  22. What Peter said, but https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dovetails-saddles-clamps/astro-essentials-vixen-type-photo-dovetail-bar.html should enable you to connect your camera and lens directly to the mount.
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