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Everything posted by matsey

  1. I'll certainly not argue against the Televue eyepieces, but I will warn you that once you start going down that path, there really is no going back..... Just a word of caution on switching to a 2" diagonal though - I did that for a while but found that I had to be really really careful if I wanted to go anywhere near the zenith as the diagonal would hit the mount if it was pointing too high. Stressed me out so much trying to watch and prevent that happening I ended up switching back to the 1 1/4" diagonal (but a new William Optics one, much better than the one supplied). The 2" diagonal I had was a Williams Optics, possibly others would be slightly smaller and not suffer the same problem, but certainly worth watching out for. By the way - I still love my 6se, even though I've upgraded since and have a bigger scope, I still use the 6se for star parties and astro camping weekends, I would never part with it now
  2. Oh that's horrible . How long has the focuser been on the scope? Perhaps get in contact with starlight or where you bought it from, they might have some ideas? Otherwise hopefully someone with better mechanical (?) knowledge will come along to offer better suggestions - I'm a bit rubbish in that department, I actually had the focuser for six months before I plucked up the courage to install it !!! Really hope you get it sorted, sorry I couldn't help further. Matsey Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Looks like you have the same scope and micro focuser I have. I haven't had that problem on mine, though it's only been installed just over a month. Only thing I can think of is to reverse the installation instructions - they're here in the PDF on this page: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/starlight-instruments-feather-touch-sct-microfocusers/microfocuser-for-celestron-925-sct.html Hope that helps, good luck. Matsey Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I've got a little app on my iphone that notifies me of new exoplanet discoveries (app is called 'Exoplanet' if anyone's interested) - when I got the notify icon up earlier with that count I thought the app had gone haywire and somehow reset itself! Excellent work from NASA though, most impressed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I've got the 6se which has the same mount as the 8se and I've always used the maplins jump starter without any problems. This one: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/nikkai-portable-jumpstarter-3-in-1-400a-a81jw It will definitely be fine for the mount, possibly with the dew controller too but think it may struggle to cope with a laptop as well, but by that point you may want another powertank/jumpstarter to cope with everything anyway. But no hesitation recommending the jumpstarter for the mount. Just have to remember to never let it run flat and charge it perhaps once a month even when not in use to keep it functioning properly. And enjoy your new scope - it's a lovely piece of kit. Matsey Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Hi all, One of my (very kind!) astro-society friends has loaned me a planetary camera to use - it's the Lumenera LU075M, which I understand is a mono camera. I've got it all set up and everything installed and working with my laptop, so I'm good to go with Jupiter when it gets dark later. Initially I'll probably just go with mono imaging to get the hang of the camera (I've had the Philips SPC9000 for a while so have dabbled before in planetary imaging). However, just wondering what I would need to do to get a colour image if I wanted to. Am I correct in thinking I would need to take three separate images/video captures with a red, a green then a blue filter attached, then somehow combine them in post-processing? Now this one might be a really stupid question... but I have a filter set with the celestron eyepiece set that I bought when I got my first scope. Will the red, green and blue filters that came with the kit work, or do I need to have special imaging filters? And will that even work with Jupiter - if I have to take three lots of videos won't the planet have rotated enough to cause blurring anyway? Does anyone manage to successfully image Jupiter that way, and if what would you recommend in terms of video length? Thanks very much Matsey
  7. Hi Martin - I'd also recommend giving the Astroshed videos a watch, I found them incredibly helpful when I first got my mount.There are five of them and they specifically cover neq6 setup. The second vid covers polar alignment, but I would recommend watching from the first video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fO6hyYtPwM). Lots of it you can do indoors while it's raining, so plenty to play with until the skies clear !
  8. congrats Martin, it is a fab combo - even though mine has become something of a cloud magnet in the last few months, on the rare occasions I do get out with it, the views through it are pretty special Sure you'll love it too
  9. I've got the 6SE which has the same software as the 8SE and yes the quickest way to get set up is to go through a one-star alignment. In fact just as quick and sometimes easier to do if there is the moon or a visible planet in the sky, is to do a solar system align. With both the one-star and solar-system align the tracking and goto won't be fantastically accurate, but it'll be good enough for a quick session. You can always replace the alignment "star" or add an additional alignment star on a subsequent goto which will increase the accuracy. I often do that anyway as the evening progresses as I've always found that the goto accuracy on my 6SE degrades over the course of a few hours if it wasn't spot on to begin with. One thing I will say from my own experience though is that it is worth spending some time when you first get the scope learning how to properly align and pick up all the little techniques to improve accuracy (eg, making sure the alignment star is in the centre of the eyepiece, choosing well-spaced alignment star pairs, etc - do come back to those when you've got the basics sorted!). It does feel quite time consuming when you first start out, but once you've cracked it and know what you're doing you can be up and running in under 10 minutes and the improved accuracy will definitely pay off later in the session when the goto is spot on every time you go to a new object. Hope that helps, and enjoy your new scope, the SEs lovely scopes Matsey
  10. Booked . Red 365 + 365. Women I spoke to said there is still plenty of availability but they are booking up fast... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. No problem at all, I'd not been back to the thread for a while myself. But yes I think this will be the best solution long term, I know it's meant buying a second oag but that definitely feels preferable to having to compromise on the reducer/flattener part of the setup. Just looking forward to getting it all in place and having some clear skies to use it all now :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
  12. Yes that definitely looks like that will work as well, good find. I think I'd still go for the TS one only because I know someone who already has one but to be fair the one you link too looks equally as good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
  13. Hi mrflib You've probably asked at just the right time as today I have finally decided on a resolution to my problem! I'm afraid as hard as I tried I just couldn't find a way to make the FLO OAG work with the reducer I wanted (also with 55mm spacing requirement). Even without any kind of adapter to attach the oag to the camera you're still looking at 58mm minimum (13 oag / 45 camera body) - easy to add space, not so easy to take it away!! The solution for me has been to go for the Teleskop Service oag + their eos adapter. OAG adds 9mm, the adapter connects the OAG flush with the camera body adding no additional space so total for oag + adapter + camera body is 54mm. Add on a 1mm spacer (FLO do a baader set for £11) and you're spot on the 55mm. Here are the links to the oag and adapter : http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p641_Off-Axis-Guider---only-9mm-length---with-T2-adaptation---Special-Offer.html http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p6262_Adapter-ring-for-EOS-bayonet-at-camera-end-for-the-TS-OAG-9.html (though you might need a different adapter for the 1100d - worth checking with TS they were very helpful with me) So it is with some reluctance I'll be selling on the FLO oag but like you I found I'd much rather have the reducer/flatteners I want and know will work with my setup and swap out the oag instead. Hope that helps - I have placed the order for the whole kit (thank you Mr Taxman for that refund ) so if you want to wait a bit I will report back on whether the new kit works, see no reason why it wouldn't though. Matsey Eek .... order placed for lots of new astro gear - I may be responsible for the end of the summer heatwave!! Sorry!! :0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
  14. Yes, to begin with just make sure you can see it anywhere in the polarscope - that will be plenty good enough for visual. a +1 for these videos - they're what I used to learn about eq mounts and polar aligning. Although he is demonstrating on a NEQ6 so some of the controls may be slightly different to your mount, the basic principles (balancing, alignment, polar alignment, etc) will be the same. Definitely worth checking out. Matsey
  15. Thanks for the clarification. So for my setup I've got... camera body (45mm) -> t ring (10mm) -> oag (15mm) = 70mm. The spacing requirement of the reducer is 76.8, so could I make up the extra 6.8 with an extension tube/spacer or similar? Baader have a 7.5mm extension tube, which would be 0.7 too much - if tolerance would allow? Would that work, or have I completely misunderstood what an extension tube would be used for? Thanks William - that definitely looks like a contender for a flattener, I'll check it out. Hmmm... so (I think !), I do have some options for flattener/reducers with the OVL OAG + DSLR. I need to do a bit more research, but I think I'm getting close. However !! Another thought ! Going back to my astrophotography group meeting where this all kicked off, I remember that the guy I was speaking to mentioned an OAG from Teleskop Service. This one: http://www.teleskop-...--fuer-CCD.html. From what he said, and from the look of the pictures, this OAG attaches directly to the camera body in place of the t-ring. If the reducer/filter fitted directly onto the OAG, the spacing would then be reduced to 54mm (45mm + 9mm for the OAG). Add a 1mm spacer (if needed), and I'm then bang on for the "standard" 55mm spacing requirement. So I just wonder if that would be a better option - ie, if I (reluctantly) sell my current OAG and get the TS one, I would have a lot more options for reducer/flatteners. Something else to think about I guess...
  16. First of all really don't worry we've all been there - and it will fall into place soon I've no doubt. I'd had an alt-az mounted scope for nearly two years before I got an EQ mount and I felt like a complete beginner all over again when that happened! First, another polar alignment tip - when you've got the polar alignment done for the first time (and as James says, for observing its good enough just to make sure you can see Polaris anywhere in the polar scope), see if you can mark on the ground where the tripod feet are. Then going forward all you need to do is make sure the feet are in the same place and that's your polar alignment done! That's what I do and it makes thing so much easier. As for the star alignment - it's quite normal for the stars to be off when you're doing the initial alignment. To get the goto as accurate as you can, try to get the alignment star as centred as possible in the eyepiece - if you defocus the star so it looks like a big donut that will help. Also, make sure you have your longitude/latitude entered in the handset as accurately as possible, and that the date is in the right way (remember it wants month first as in American style, ie mm/dd/yy). Also make sure you've got daylight savings set to 'yes' as we're in BST right now. There are other things you can do to improve accuracy, but don't want to overwhelm so best to start simple! As for the rate the star was moving in the eyepiece, that will be the 'rate' setting and will be adjustable. Assuming you have the same/similar handset as i do on my mount, there should be a button with 'rate' in it. Press that then a number between 1 and 9 (1 slowest, 9 fastest). I find 3 or 4 quite good for speed in the eyepiece. And finally! Why not see if you've got a local astro society near you to join? You may even be able to take your scope along to a meet and get someone to give you a tutorial. Hope that helps a bit, just keep at it and in a few weeks it'll all come naturally without even thinking about it. Matsey Ps and can I just say what a lovely friend you have too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Steve - thanks for the reply and apologies for not being able to respond to the thread until now. I think it is looking like the wo reducer is going to work, but still confused a bit by the whole spacing calculations. On your calculation you got to 61.8mm with a final -15mm, but I'm not sure what that final deduction is for, is it the spacing without the oag? Or is that to do with the maximum back focus of the scope itself? That again isn't something I've thought to consider if that is the case! Ok, so, back focus of scope aside (will research this further if that might be an issue), let's assume that the WO reducer will work with the equinox 80 + OVL oag + dslr. So that just leaves the question of a suitable flattener, which I'd want to use if I want to image at the scope's native f6.25. Do flatteners have critical spacing requirements as well? I've had a quick search (on my phone in a coffee shop right now) and couldn't find much information about spacing for flatteners. So if someone is able to confirm if spacing is critical for flatteners as well I can research see if I can find something suitable. And, phew, you're right those manufacturers don't make this easy at all!! Thanks again, Matsey Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Thanks for the replies so far AG - apologies (my fault, rather long first post! ), it won't be the celestron reducer I'm intending on using with the Equinox 80, it's the Televue one with the 55mm spacing requirement. Steve - that's a most excellent suggestion to look at other reducers, I completely hadn't thought about that as a solution! Other than the possible future reducer spacing issue, I agree it is an excellent OAG, I have been very happy with it on my current setup. I've had a quick look at the Ricaddi one, which is a bit eek expensive for my budget. However, as you suggested I've had a look for other reducers and have come across this WO one which looks like it should work with the Equinox 80: http://www.firstligh...attener-iv.html . According to the info, that has a spacing requirement of 66-86, so I could easily fit the OAG between the reducer and the camera body/t-ring - that would give a spacing of 68mm, which would be perfect. (And that'll please FLO as well I'm sure, as I'll no longer be going elsewhere for the reducer ) So as that is looking like a very good solution, my next question would be - where in the image train should I be fitting my 2" light pollution filter?! The filter is currently being screwed onto the nosepiece on the OAG (which is then slotted into the a baader 2" click lock adapter), but I think with this type of reducer I won't be using the nosepiece as the reducer will screw onto the focuser directly... so possibly I'll need some other kind of adapter/something to get the filter in place as well.. not sure what though? I will in any case be sure to discuss with FLO before placing an order to make sure I order everything I need. Thanks again, much appreciated. Matsey
  19. Hi all, I just can't seem to wrap my head around this and need some advice on whether I have the correct OAG for what I want to do going forward. So confused and need some help ! Here's the equipment I currently have: - Canon 650d DSLR - OAG from FLO (this one ... http://www.firstligh...xis-guider.html ) - Lodestar guide camera I'm using this at the moment with the SCT 9.25 and Celestron f6.3 focal reducer, which seems to be working OK (though I confess because of weather and other commitments, I haven't used it a great deal since getting the guide equipment end June). Hopefully end September I'll have the funds to finish off my imaging setup, this is what I'm planning on buying: - Skywatcher Equinox 80 Pro (http://www.firstligh...po-pro-ota.html) - Field Flattener (http://www.firstligh...-flattener.html or http://www.firstligh...-flattener.html) - TV TRF-2008 reducer/flattener (http://www.televue.c...?id=71&Tab=_TRF) From speaking to one of the guys at my astro society's astrophotography group, I have just found out that spacing between the focal reducer and the camera sensor is critical - I had no idea ! According to the Televue website, the distance for the TV reducer is 55mm +/- 2mm. From what I've read, I believe the distance between the sensor and the front of the camera body is 45mm. So... I think... the setup to get the 55mm distance should be: camera body (45mm) --> t-ring adapter (10mm) --> focal reducer. But that would mean that the OAG would need to sit in front of the reducer, giving the camera and the guide camera completely different focus points. But if I go with camera body (45mm) --> t-ring adapter (10mm) --> OAG (13mm) --> focal reducer, I've increased the distance from sensor to reducer to 67mm, which is way outside the spacing tolerance. So.. head now officially blown ! So that's my confusion.... does this mean that the OAG I have will not work with this new setup, or is there some kind of adapter or different way of setting everything up that I need to get it to work? I've tried reading through the SGL thread on this OAG, but (and I could be missing something) most of the talk I think relates to CCDs rather than DSLRs where there isn't a problem with the sensor being so far back in the body. Thank you very much in advance, looking forward to my head being unscrambled just a little bit !! Matsey
  20. To be honest I don't know..... All I know is that when I look at it without the reducer I can see the central area, but not all seven main stars - so it's always at that point that I grab the bins rather than swapping in the reducer. I suspect though that it would be able to fit it all in... just about.
  21. Hmm... I bought one when I just had the 6SE, but only really because I wanted to use my webcam to take a mosaic of the moon and the magnification was too great without it. I now use it on the 925, but only when I'm imaging. For visual, I've only found a few objects that I'd maybe want to use it for - Pleiades being a notable one. But when I want to look at that, I tend to just grab the binos instead rather than faff around putting on the focal reducer then removing it again afterwards. Other large objects, like Andromeda, get washed out with light pollution anyway, so I can fit what's visible in the FOV of my scope without the reducer. So, if it's visual only, I'd say you probably won't need one, particularly if you've got other scopes with a wide FOV you can use instead. Matsey
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