TiffsAndAstro

So I would say the balance of my scope+other attached bits is "good" but I don't have much context as to how good it needs to be. In turn, with one of the two clutches off, balance on both axis individually seem perfect. but when I loosen both axis' clutches at the same time and flip Ra fully east/left it is a tiny bit camera end heavy. When if flip Ra fully west/right it is a tiny bit lens hood side heavy. Two not very enlightening pics attached. The one in darkness purely to show my counter weight setup in case it helps. There is a guidescope and cam on other side of the usb hub out of sight. I balance with lens caps off cos it does seem to help.

yeah my previous s8+ had an oled screen and images looked great on it budget lcd on a budget phone, i should be happy its in colour

are you taking flats at all?

My own very limited images look ok on my desktop monitor (not calibrated but not a million miles away) but look overstretched and pretty nasty on this mobile phone screen. They look ok on my tablet. Monitor calibration is usually a good thing but I CBA on my 6yo desktop gaming monitor.

My backgrounds are not great, or my foregrounds, for many reasons

I current have 3 versions of my 2 hours on witches broom: massively over stretched, barely any stretch and one roughly in the middle. I don't like any of them

Wish my backgrounds were a touch to smooth like this

Don't think you botched the background at all this looks great.

Ty gonna reset phd2 start fresh

Not sure how I saw a blue power box on accessory tray

Any tips on your phd2 settings?

Some "classic" cars had fibre glass bodies, like some lotuses. In spite of their tremendous build quality and reliability some of them need body work redoing Might be something the restorers know that works?

I am not a tidy person, how dare you accuse me of that? I think I use a flimsy usb hub instead of your your blue power box? I have it velcroed on top of my scope and I have all those leads gathered and tied at the base near the dovetail plate. Purely because I think any wires dangling down even my balance/guiding. Don some shades or other protective eyewear and stare at the magnificence below

Apologies I was just trying to be funny also, i have thing about wiring at the moment I notice you use a lot less NASA space tape than I do

Need to run this image through astrosharp

Great images. Cuiv the lazy geek has a video about syncing two instances of Nina and setting one as master, other as slave in case it might be helpful.

thanks for all this. i assumed it was more involved, but this shows me just how much.

I'm new ish to astrophotography so not sure of the technical terms but I wonder how you stretch both parts of the mosaic equally/to match each other. Not asking for an explanation but is there a key term or search phrase I can use? for YouTube videos

That's some incredible detail on the brain

This looks even better.

This looks really really good to my noob eyes.

Btw m31 gets higher in the sky over the next month or two, so you're fighting a lot more horrible atmosphere to image right now. Also the moon and technically no proper darkness. I'm new, and desperate to image m31 with my new gear, but it's still too low for me right now. Having said that, it's probably ideal to practice and get data to practice with

Check out deeps space Astros siril tutorials on YouTube. Quite amazing

Try it and see. Take a 5 sec at a high iso then zoom in look for star trails/elongated stars. If none use 5 sec. If you do see trails etc drop to 4 sec, and look again. I'm very new to this but I think I saw trails at 50mm crop frame at about 5 seconds or more. You're at 200mm so if you don't see trails at 2 sec I say you're doing well I think. I think iso800 might be best when taking your subs

Your result is even better than the original. Not sure about the half swastika satellite galaxy in the top left? Actually 2/3rds Manx flag galaxy sounds more contemporary