TiffsAndAstro

I think I already watched it. Would be perfect except for my lack of jig or laser pen My main concern was slapping my new camera on it (if it ever arrives) and mistaking 533 sensor tilt for focus tube issues. I have experience with a total of one focuser, but it seems nice enough to me. I can get bahtinov analyser within a pixel on a 500px box easy enough. The lock screw annoyed me a bit as it throughs that off by 8px when I tighten it, but I've learned to take that into account. Ish. Also I barely tighten it recently. 533 and back focus adapters and focus drawer probably weigh more than my dslr so who knows? I'm sure it will be happiness and joy once I screw it all together. And clouds.

I'm going with as the issue is very similar at zero camera rotation and at near 180 degrees rotation, it's a problem with the sensor. I think the may be some focus tube slop or something, but not too much. Also I reasons for optimism. Mine is the later version of the scope, so it might have been addressed a bit and also a square sensor will be a bit less prone to showing it. Mine doesn't seem as extreme an issue as others seem....

Don't be so hasty, I'm usually incorrect

ty for this i'll have a good read. as the tilt seems to move with the camera orientation, im hoping you're wrong i have a 533 possibly on the way to me as i write this, so i guess that will help determine it once and for all. would hate to have to return the telescope as i like it.

The effect seems to be on the left hand side of the images before and after rotation which makes me think it's the dslr sensor is tilted. Hoping to be sure before I put a new camera on and decide to play with it's tilt adjustment screws unnecessarily.

This seems to be what I see in those images. Possibly with a slight reduction in the two images after rotation by 180 ish degrees

The second two images were taken after I rotated the camera by about 180 degrees from where the first two images were taken and the pattern seems roughly the same same.

so i noticed in all my dslr images i get roughly same pattern as the two images below. there is some variance and these are from stacked images. looking at a few random frames, stacking might exaggerate the effect a bit. after i rotated my camera approx 180 degrees (not specifically to test ths issue) i noticed the same effect. always top left is smallest then bottom right then top left then bottom right. the amounts vary a bit, as above. when i 'normalise' (think that's the right term) within one image them based on top right (smallest value) they are fairly consistent between each 4 images. i think this tells me my focus tube/optical train isn't the problem (ie dslr weight pulling tube to one side) but that the dslr sensor itself is tilted? which should disappear if i replace the dslr with my new camera? if the effect is still there with the new camera, it means the new sensor is tilted (which i can theoretically adjust via screws around the sensor) AND/OR the focus tube is still being pulled to that same side? this IS possible, as i rotated the camera and the ota in its rings. so im a bit confused....

Amazing. What looks like two separate dust clouds/blobs with their own wake/trail. Shockwaves.

ø2.1 x ø5.5 x 12mm center positive dc jack is what flo website says about my mount power supply cable. i have no idea if my camera, if it ever arrives includes a powersupply, but either way i'd like to use a splitter from it - one split going to the mount and the other via a detachable extension cable to my camera. can i just search on ebay for a cheapo version that matches the "ø2.1 x ø5.5 x 12mm center positive dc" ? i've seen a few already. also seems i can get a right angled adapter as i don't like using a straight one it seems to put unessecery stress on the power in socket even though i use some velco to take the weight off.

you seem to be doing very nicely just "still experimenting" ty for the description, i assume you're using pixinsight not siril before photoshop?

Don't want hijack thread anymore than I have but think I've seen a siril pixel math video for this using 60/40 balance. Ta again

ty i have been wondering about how the Ha and the Oiii could both be included with RGB to created a final image. i guess the green channel of Oiii will look different to the blue channell of Oiii? but it seems target/nebula dependant? turns out im not keen on hubble palette and was wondering if there was a different way that i'd prefer. just a personal preference thing. cheers for the help again

noob question apologies, i know what the H and the first O in HOORGB is but what is the second O for ?

I think Ninas exposure calculator has something equivalent plug in sharp cap data or look up the average values reported by others.

My Ra and Dec both seem physically backlash free, but a while back using guiding assistant it came up with some scary looking number. So I decided to ignore that, balance better and do a couple of nudges north after slewing just before starting calibration. Also slightly better guidescope focus. Hopefully I still have some headroom to improve before trying to physically mesh gears more, if they do need it. If I can get below 1" I'll be happy.

Haven't read all the thread but this looks over my head. Still have 11 to 15 days to read a lot of stuff. Only just finished that 6 parter on buckets and balls. For now my plan is to use Cuiv's lazy option and guess, but hopefully this thread will give me a better position way. Personally I think that with my current acquisition and processing skills it probably won't make a noticeable difference either way. *** My plan was +2c cooling but it seems dark current noise is also temperature dependant? Conservatively guessing appeals more to me right now, so -10c it is. 101 gain and 50 offset. And 1 to 2 min subs until I get a DNb filter probably longer then, modified by aircraft and my mounts capabilities. Of course that's likely to change as I read more. I hope ;( Cheers for recommending this thread 900sl

honestly, the nw of england where i am, might as well just look out of the window as the forecasts change so quickly and randomly.

that's really encouraging. any chance you could share any phd2 settings you've customised? im getting 0.6, 0.8 for a while but it generally moves to around 1.2 to 1.4 which is fine....but if there's some obvious tweaks i can try for a quick win it would be great i did get these settings from earlier in the thread and ill look to see if they're different to what im currently using. if so ill try them out.

can't beat clicky keys. they can be a bit loud at night though.

i only have 5 different weather web pages open on my phone and desktop and they all lie, all disagree with each other and are all wrong. i don't see how that's possible ;( one even retrospectively updates its past predictions.....

great picture.

its a weird coincidence that my guiding seems to have improved about 25% ish since i've added more weight and counter weights. do mounts 'wear in' with use over time (and possibly wear out?)

im guessing this is cropped for a wide screen style aspect ratio from the square sensor? looks really, really nice. love the 'wake' beneath the witche's broom part.

usb2 should be fine. im going from usb on mount to an unbelievably flimsy (but can be externally powered but i don't atm) 4 port usb hub into the blue usb lead into an extention cable into a usb to usb c apple adapter and have no problems controlling the mount. yet