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  1. Thanks for all the answers. It pretty much sums up most om my thoughts so far aswell. I'm aware of the quite small FOV I would get with most cameras within the budget. The 314 would give approx 1 degree diagonally. Should fit a lot of objects in there. The 460 would give me ~1.35 degress and the 383 2 degrees. For a comparison my 1000D gives med 2.4 degrees. Regarding the pixel resolution, the 1000D gives me 2.25 arcec/pixel, which is ok I guess since I don't have the best sky. The 314 would give 2.55 arcsec/pixel, still ok I think. I'll be looking around for some second hand CCDs then
  2. I do guide with a qhh5 and the ED80 finder scope. I can currently do 10 minute subs (havent't tried any longer) with perfectly round stars. That is with the ED80 reduced to 510mm.
  3. Hi, I currently do imaging with a Skywatcher ED80 and a modified Canon 1000D, mounted to a HEQ5-pro. I would like to take my imaging to "the next level", but I really can't get my head around where to start. I guess most would say "mount first!", and I agree, but I would like to keep the total weight down, and the mount runs very nice for my current setup. Because of that I would like to keep the mount and either buy new optics or a ccd. I guess my total budget is around 1k GBP. I'm looking at better (and true) APOs around that limit, or a Atik 314L+ - ish. I don't bother shooting mono and upgrade with filters later. Any advice?
  4. I got 30x600s more subs last night, so now I've got a total of 525 minutes. A bit better, but still hard to process. 100% crop:
  5. Thanks! I got around 30x600s or something (didn't count them before going to work) last night, so hopefully there will be more nebulosity after processing them aswell
  6. Hi, I tried to capture this nebula yesterday, I got 45x300s using my SW ED80 with .85 reducer and a modified Canon 1000D. HEQ5 pro mount and using raspberry pi as guide computer and exposure controller. No flats were used. I've started a sequence of 600s exposures, so hopefully I will be able to bring out more nebulosity. I'm missing an IR/UV filter, so my stars get a little bloated (and uhm, I could have focused better). Processed in Pixinsight, although a bit too hard I think. Still learning .. Full FOV (size reduced to 33%) 100% crop around bubble - cygrus -
  7. Thanks for the answers, good to know that I can keep my guider as is I started drooling over the 428Ex though
  8. Hi, I'm currently imaging with a SW ED80 with a 0.85x reducer and a modified Canon 1000D. Due to light pollution and 'tech-fever' I want to move to mono CCD and narrow band filters. I've been lookng at the ATIK 420. It seems to give pretty good pixel resolution and the resulting FOV fits my needs quite good. I currently guide with a QHY5 through the finder scope. It works perfectly for my DSLR, but will it hold with the 420 given it's much smaller FOV?
  9. Hi All, Thanks again for all your replies and suggestions. Although it might not seem like it, I have been reading a lot and done quite a lot of practical astronomy in the past years (just not AP yet, except ultra-wide-field with DSLR on tripod only). After reading your suggestions and doing some checks on focal lengths, true fov etc I've once again landed on a different scope - the SW ED80 with the .85x reducer (as most of you suggested). This is mostly because I'm unsure about the collimation the newt (some bad experience with a el-cheapo noname newt), but also because of the reduced focal length. Thanks all
  10. I understand that I should read the book, and I will. But would you say that the equipment I have listed isn't suited, and that I will make another choice if I read the book first? It would be nice to hear more about what difference it would make when it comes to the equipment. I've been in the game for some years, just not done any "die-hard" AP yet.
  11. Hi, Thanks for the advice from all of you. Regarding small refractors versus the 150 PDS I think it is a bit between the widest and narrowest with its 750 mm focal length, if you know what I mean. It will give me quite a wide field using my DSLR (1.2 x 1.8 degrees with 1.5 arsecs/pixel), but still not so narrow that the guide and polar alignment gets _that_ much harder. I think. I'll probably buy the book anyway, but I kind of feel ready to jump this anyway. I mean, the heq5 should be a safe bet, as for the kind of cheap 150PDS.
  12. Hi, I am about to order the following for getting started with astro photo (wide-ish field with dslr) HEQ5 PRO SW 150 PDS w/coma corrector ALCCD5 autoguider 70x500 guidescope Dual saddle to mount scopes side-by-side Various adapters Do you think this is a good start? I have kind of blown my budget already, so anything more expensive is out of the question :/
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