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Bargy

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  1. Could I pick your brains please guys? I recently got the Edge HD8 and have been getting used to it. I have tried it in a couple of configurations so far - with and without the reducer. For both options I use the Celestron OAG and the ASI2600MC camera. Without the reducer I run: OAG SCT Adapter (25.3mm) OAG Main Body (29mm) OAG Camera Adapter (12.5mm) ZWO Filter Draw (21mm) 16.5 spacer 11.55 spacer ASI2600MC (17.5mm) ZWO 174mm for guiding Total: 105.3mm With the reducer I run: OAG SCT Adapter (25.3mm) OAG Main Body (29mm) OAG Camera Adapter (12.5mm) ZWO Filter Draw (21mm) ASI2600MC (17.5mm) ZWO 174mm for guiding Total: 133.35 The question I have is in regard to setup for planetary. For Planetary I also have the option to use: Celestron T Adapter for Edge HD8 Original original visual back adapter that came with scope ZWO 1.25” ADC Tele Vue Powermate 2x 2” ASI 662MC for Planetary I’m wondering what the best configuration would be for planetary? I have been led to believe it would be: T-Adapter or Visual back - 2 x Powermate - ADC - Camera However, I have to breakdown my kit and set it up each night, which means I have to include polar aligning each night. I have so far exclusively used the ASIAIR for this and for all my DSO needs, but would like to use Fire Capture for Planetary - so the main imaging camera would be attached to my PC and everything else to the ASIAIR. Would it be possible to leave the AOG in the planetary config and use that for polar alignment and targeting? I'm not sure if that would even work as the OAG camera takes it's image right from the edge of the FOV and I'm not sure you could polar align with that and have the planet in the centre of view when slewing using the OAG camera? With my DSO setup whenever I centre Vega or another bright star in my main camera for collimation and focusing, the star I centered on doesn't even show in the guide camera window. Thoughts?
  2. Only my second ever astro image 🙂 NGC 6946 Fireworks Galaxy 41 x 300s Minute Lights 10 x 300s Darks 10 x Light Flats 10 x BIAS Celestron Edge HD 8" with 0.7 reducer ASI2600MC pro ZWO AM5 Celestron OAG with ASI 174MM Mini Pixinsight/WBPP/DBE/SPCC/BlurX/GHS/NoiseX Topaz-G0030189_1.mp4
  3. Bargy

    Lee Images

  4. Just to add to this - here is an image once I put the imaging train back on and attach the ocal again
  5. Hi, I'm new to the Edge HD8 and have been struggling with collimation, focus and polar alignment. I think a lot of the issue is that I didn't have the reducer, so been trying to do everything at the native focal length (2032mm). Anyway, I have managed to get hold of a .7 reducer and I'm going through all steps logically. Question I have first is - should I do the collimation with or without the imaging train? And also, which circles should I align the collimator to? Here is an image of the Ocal camera with no focal train apart from the .7 reducer which is attached. Here are the reference points I chose This next one is after collimation - note that the crosshair on the camera seems central, but the mirror still seems a little off? Not sure if I should go by the mirror or by the camera crosshair. Main questions then: 1) have I chosen the correct reference points (circles) 2) Should I fine tune to the cross hair or the primary mirror 3) Should I be collimating with just the reducer or the whole image train which would be: Scope-Reducer-OAG-ZWO 21mm Filter draw-ASI2600MC Many Thanks in advance. Bargy
  6. Don't want to hijack or anything, I'm really new to Imaging and I have a couple of the Optolong filters, but not done may targets yet. I'm using the OSC 2600MC camera and I wanted to know - how do you know what filter to use on what target? For example I just put up my first post yesterday or the first image I have taken in the hobby, in which I used the L-Ultimate filter https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/411348-first-ever-dso-imaged-and-processed-ic1805-heart-nebula/ Everything is red with some yellow - but I saw a similar post where the same target ad blue's and green's in it as well - is that because I'm limited with my filter, or just the editor playing with colour schemes in post processing? I wondered if there was some kind of database online, or some way of looking at what type light a target object emits - so I can match that with the right kind of filter (if any) to make sure I don't block out stuff I would want to capture. Thanks
  7. Absolutely awesome mate. I just started this year and am learning Pixinsight from scratch - I learn the starless DBE from Adam Blocks website and it’s so much easier that doing DBE with stars
  8. Wow! Thanks for the comments guys - I wasn't sure what to expect. Been a bit hesitant to post anything being so new to the hobby. I am really happy with the image though, but I feel there is much room for improvement, especially with the colours. Taken in my bortle 6 back yard too on one evening so looking forward to getting to some darker skies and maybe doing multiple nights on something.
  9. Just took up the hobby at Christmas this year, took me a while to learn enough to even setup the rig, let alone take any data. I took the data for this image back in March 2023 but It's taken until now to get to a point where I can share an image having learnt both DSO imaging and Pixinsight from a standing start. Anyway.... 50 x 300s Lights 25 x Bias 25 x Dark 25 x Flat Redcat51 ASI2600MC AM5 Mount ASI120mm Mini Guide L-Ultimate Filter ASIAIR Pixinsight with WBPP, StarX, DBE, SPCC, BlurX and then Curves Transformation> Reasonably chuffed for a first ever go..
  10. Hi, I'm reasonably new to imaging and have been using the Redcat 51 for widefield DSO with the ASI6200MC, which doesn't really get much zoom with the moon; http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/?fov[]=4549||3264||1|1|0&solar_system=moon I do however have a planetary camera for an Edge HD8 I just purchased, but the focal length on that is such that I wouldn't be able to get a full frame shot of the moon. I also have a 2 x Powermate - question is, would that work well with the Redcat 51 and ASI662? This FOV looks good for getting a close up image http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/?fov[]=4549||9789||2|1|0&solar_system=moon It's been cloudy here and not had the time to test, so just wanted to ask the question.. Thanks
  11. Just after some advice if that's possible? I have been imaging for around 6 months now (when it's not Cloudy) - here is my current setup: Williams Optics Redcat 51 ASI2600mc pro ASI AM5 Mount ASIair Pro Williams Optics Guide Scope ASI 120mm Mini Guide Camera What I have realised is this is a cracking portable setup which is great at taking wider view images of the larger nebula targets, but not so good for galaxies, planets and lunar. As we move through the months into galaxy and globular cluster season i'm struggling with fewer and fewer targets. Tries M3 last night but without cropping to a silly level the cluster is just too small to see. I do have a Celestron Starsense Explorer DX 130az - which is not designed for astrophotography, I just about got my 2600mc to work with it (DSLR won't work because not enough inward travel) - but the single night I did use on a galaxy all the stars away from the centre of the image were really elongated, and you can add anything else like a field flattener as these is not enough space to add without not being able to get any focus. I'm looking for recommendations for a OTA that would be a good multipurpose fit for Galaxies, Planets and Lunar - which using as much as I can from the setup above (albeit I know I will need a camera more suited to planetary astrophotography). Don't want to break the bank (too badly), but as you can see from the kit above I would rather buy quality once than cheap multiple times. Many Thanks
  12. Here we go, looking much neater and tidier now :-). Just need some clear skies
  13. That must have been it because weirdly it focuses in sharpcap and produces a clear video image of whatever I’m pointing at
  14. OK...think I have ran into my first issue Can 't get focus on the guider scope...just shows a white screen (even with gain at zero in ASI Air Scope is https://williamoptics.com/products/telescope/guider/all-new-50mm-guiding-scope Camera is https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-120mm-mini-usb-20-mono-camera.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgaGgBhC8ARIsAAAyLfFt1VUWHx_i9lqLhVZYHUW0t_4nT6ODRwbr7-ScFDqPZHc9Zkhh8iUaArkREALw_wcB Read a few bits about needing enough back focus....I have used all the extension bits I had with the scope and camera and not sure if they are a mismatch...
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