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Gina

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Everything posted by Gina

  1. I agree but to produce a smooth groove is not easy. 3D printing is not necessarily perfect.
  2. The O ring has arrived and I've assembled the ASC with O ring dry and it leaks but I haven't been able to find where by testing with soapy water. It isn't easy to see bubbling down in the flange channel where the O ring is. There is certainly no bubbling round the cables or tubes. Guess the next thing is to take it apart again and grease the O ring and try again.
  3. I have a 220W 13.8v PSU in my warm room connected to a sealed lead acid battery of 45AH capacity for backup. That is fed through a small distribution box with digital ammeter though two 16.5A cables to the pier head. One feeds the mount and the other all the rest. The negative side is carried by combined negative/earth with a heavy duty domestic earth bonding cable. From the pier this goes to an earth rod outside the observatory in damp soil moistened by a nearby watercourse.
  4. Still have clear skies forecast for the dark period overnight in spite of current total cloud cover with some of it very dark and looking like rain. There will only be a short interval between moonset and sunrise though, and in view of that I don't think I'm going to "bust a gut" to get it all working by tonight. Slow and steady generally gives better results. The O ring is scheduled to arrive this afternoon. New base plate has printed fine and I'm installing the cables and other parts. I think I can use the present top - I've got most of the silicone sealant off it. The inner ring that retains the O ring will also raise the camera to allow for the thickness of the O ring. I also have the electronics to sort out.
  5. You could get several IR LEDs and mount them around the scope room so as to light the area but not point into the scope.
  6. Well, the best of luck! If it's dark enough for astronomy it'll need an astro camera and many seconds exposure not 1/50th or even 1/25th sec.
  7. Printed those parts and now printing a new base plate.
  8. You have green beer in SW France??? Or is it lime juice?
  9. Hope you haven't forgotten the entrance doorway!
  10. Looks great - coming on nicely ? I could have done with a digger too when I built my observatory and we too have clay 20-30cm below ground level.
  11. Gina

    Cataracts

    Same here!
  12. Interesting. I'm planning very wide field Ha as one of my projects for the summer months when the Milky Way is in good view for nebulae.
  13. You might have a problem with imaging - particularly red and Ha.
  14. To retain the mirror flat surfaces on the 3D printed parts I think I shall design and print two rings to hold the O ring in place - one inside and one outside with the outside one having the clamping holes.
  15. Yes, I've come to that conclusion! Though this was squeezed between 3D printed parts. I have some 4 core screened cable I can use for the USB and that can go through a grommet.
  16. I'll bear that in mind, thank you, but I want to get the ASC working again for tomorrow night if possible as it's forecast to be clear.
  17. Clamped and sealed with silicone sealant - oodles of it. Should have sealed alright.
  18. I'm using grommets for the pressure tube and 7-core cable. These seal fine without any sealant. The water tubes go through printed pipes as part of the base which are smaller than the OD of the tubes so these fit tightly and also seal fine. The dome has also sealed well with no sign of a leak. The problem areas are the main flange and the USB cable. I could cut and join the USB cable then it can go through a grommet and solve that problem.
  19. I do have a lathe but can't get at it ATM.
  20. Ordered an O ring - arriving tomorrow. 130mm x 5mm Rubber Sealing Oil Filter O Rings Gaskets Black
  21. Just tried to separate the casing parts at the flange and it's stuck solid most of the way round. So much so that the casing has broken trying to prise it apart!! OTOH the seal for the USB cable, also apparently well sealed with lots of sealant is leaking profusely. Looks like I need to change the design completely.
  22. Yes, no doubt that would work - I'd be surprised if it didn't but I'm surprised silicone sealant didn't work. Bit final though - to get inside any time in the future, if a problem arose, would mean breaking the casing.
  23. No, I haven't and can't see any advantage. The printed parts are not leaking. It's between the parts of the flanges. The flange surfaces are perfectly flat from being printed on glass with good extrusion so that there are no grooves between filaments. The mating surfaces are like a mirror. Maybe just grease would work better that sealant. Or perhaps a greased paper gasket - works for engines.
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