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Gina

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Gina last won the day on February 4

Gina had the most liked content!

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About Gina

  • Rank
    Neutron Star

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://ginad.uk (currently not available)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Interests
    Astrophotography, Photography, Electronics, Computer Hardware and Software (Programming)
  • Location
    East Devon, UK
  1. I use a 3x magnifier desk lamp as well as reading glasses for soldering and other close-up stuff.
  2. I fell foul of this :- This then is pretty much what I need in homez.g and the Z part of homeall.g G91 ; relative mode G1 Z4 F200 ; raise head 4mm to ensure it is above the switch trigger height G1 Z-350 S1 F100 ; move Z down until the switch triggers G90 ; back to absolute mode G92 Z0.3 ; tell the firmware that we are at Z=0.3mm (or whatever the nozzle height is when the X endstop triggers) Changed the second G1 line to allow for the bed being at Z = 350, the printing height of the Concorde.
  3. From that thread it seems that this is covered in the Duet instructions but I haven't found it!! This G code stuff can be a bit tricky it seems. Easy when you know how, of course.
  4. I may have the answer here if I can work it out but I think my brain is suffering from overload ATM. Guess I need a break.
  5. That's what I thought but it doesn't work. If I manually adjust the bed to be the thickness of a piece of paper from the nozzle and start a print run (having disabled Z homing and bed probing). It prints one layer then drops the bed to 100mm! I'll have a Google and see if I can find anything.
  6. The bed heater is much improved by releasing the bubble. The problem now Is that I want to use a standard endstop for the Z axis same as X and Y but I can't see how to do that in Duet. All sorts of different probes but no mention of standard micro-switch type endstop module. Anyone know how to do this?
  7. Been looking at the bed heater on my Concorde printer. Removed the glass plate and turned the aluminium plate plus heater pad over. There is a bulge in the middle about 6" diameter which I couldn't press out. So I took a pair of scissors and lifted an edge followed by working my steel rule between pad and ali sheet until it reached the bubble. That released the air (or whatever) and I was able to flatten the centre a bit, though not totally. I checked the Giant printer bed which also uses the same type of heater pad and aluminium plate (though this one is 5mm thick) and that showed a similar bulge. Then I checked the bed from the Titan printer which has a smaller heater pad stuck directly to glass and that was quite flat. Seems these pads don't stick to aluminium as well as glass. With the bed heater upside down and the heater pad visible I thought I'd try heating it up and see what affect differential thermal expansion might do. It went flat when hot and the aluminium sheet got a lot hotter than it did with the bed the right way up. Looks like I need to do that same as I have with the Mini printer and press the heater pad with polyurethane foam but I would need to keep the temperature below around 100°C as the foam is only rated to 105°C. After letting the bed cool down there was a slight separation of the heater pad from the ali but nothing like as bad as before.
  8. Cables clamped and will be sealed with silicone sealant when finally assembled. The upper casing will be attached with screws from underneath and sealed to the baseplate.
  9. You're getting twice the Z axis speed that I get in my Concorde printer. Mind you my print bed is 500mm x 500mm, weighs around 5Kg and driven by just two single start threaded rods. OTOH the large 3D printed Z carriages do make the bed sufficiently level not to need bed levelling - the RMS error was 0.106mm over the 400mm x 400mm printing area with most even closer. I was amazed!
  10. I too find the search engines in ebay and Amazon amazingly inept at finding what I want - a list of totally unrelated items generally ensues!! It sometimes seems to need imaginative thinking to come up with a search phrase that comes anywhere near!
  11. I often think it doesn't do to go back to where you used to live. Many places you knew well, gone and replaced by housing estates or industrial works. We were swamped by the radio waves from the Hillmorton transmitting station. The call sign GBR could be heard on a rusty bedstead - "_ _ . _ ... ._." is embossed in my brain forever!! Some years ago I took a friend to see where I had been born and spent my first nearly 7 years. Where we used to play, out the back gate of our garden on the edge of a town, Wotton-Under-Edge, in Gloucestershire, had been completely built over with a housing estate and the Tabernacle (chapel) where my grandfather was buried, is now an auction house and sometimes appears in antiques programmes on TV.
  12. New baseplate and waterblock clamp plus cable clamp.
  13. Decided I shall use two round cables - USB and a 4 core for the dew heater and camera cooler (Peltier TEC). They can be clamped between 3D printed flexible plastic pieces (TPU filament).
  14. Amazing coincidences... I was there between the ages of about 7 and 17.
  15. I used to live in Rugby - well just outside the town around two thirds of the way to Hillmorton.
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