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Luis Campos

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Everything posted by Luis Campos

  1. Trust me...I know what you mean Fred, I work with IRIS by Christin Buil, want to try that? Cheers,
  2. I think there's also a M48 version, see here: http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p6128_TS-Canon-EOS-M48-T-Adapter-with-Filter-Quick-Changer---Low-Profile.html Cheers,
  3. Problem solver: http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3504_TS-Adaptor-from-M48--2--filter-thread--to-T2---low-profile.html Cheers
  4. See here: http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p5741_Filter-Quick-Changer-incl--1x-filter-drawer-for-unmounted-36mm-filters---low-profi.html Baader 36mm 7 Nm Ha filter: http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p4367_Baader-H-Alpha---7nm---36mm-w-o-cell.html If you can also build an adaptor of some sort you still can use the filter only for now while you can't afford the drawer system, I did mine with a foam ring and place it inside the T-adaptor
  5. Salut Fred, That look like a cool inexpensive gadget for sure, I also did something of teh kinf do use my existing 1.25" Ha filter when I debayered my 350D, it works but you'll have quite some vigneting, sure you can crop out the bad peripheral areas and end up with a nice clean image Abou the filter, when I can buy them go for the 36mm unmounted versions, they are so much cheaper then the 2"! Cheack the filter drawer system by TS that replaces the T-adaptor and allows you to use the full range of 36mm filter, that what we all use around here Also this filter drawer allows you to use all accesories like raducers, coma correctors, etc, as it maintains the same distance as a convencional T-adaptor, very clever stuff indeed! Cheers, Luís
  6. ...And I complain when I'm outside at 0Cº!!! Herra, you have my respect!
  7. Exactly what I been finding with the cooled cameras I'm using, there's nothing to gain going sub zero, the ideal is to maintain at around 5Cº to 0Cº, this not only requires a smaller TEC and heatsink but also much less power consumption and less likely to get frost on the sensor Cheers,
  8. Hi guys! Thought youl'd like to know: http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/234089-rosete-with-mono-550d-first-light/ Cheers
  9. Yeah copper is much better but around here I can't find any usefull bit for this so went for aluminium, still good cold transfer Mine is at the side, works great Cheers,
  10. You're welcome Gina Yep, there's really no need to supercool at least with the 450D The original coverglass is really bad reflections wise, there's no big problem on a original RGB sensor but with a monofied sensor is very different, what happens is that the glass layer under the CFA is highly reflective and when we polish the sensor face to remove the CFA it gets really shiny and light from brighter stars ends up bouncing from the sensor face to the coverglass and big uglly halos show up and it's even worse with the Ha filter, the shiny surface of the Ha filter get this phenomenon even worse! See here some comparasion images of several cover glasses used, these are all unfiltered test shots, this is a worte case scenario with bright Arcturus: Original cover glass placed directly on the sensor face, this one creates a very bright cross pattern of multiple reflections: LPF1 only filter placed on the filter frame, but NO original cover glass, this one is coated but bad quality...still big bad halos and a cross pattern: And this is the Astronomik clear glass filter (no filtering but very good anti reflection coatings) this one also placed on the filter frame and sensor with NO cover glass: Hope you find this usefull Cheers, Luís
  11. It's like you say, pixel size of the 350D is a good match for most systems and seeing conditions, it it wasn't for the amp glow and 12 bit the 350D would still be a winner Regading the 450D, I like a lot it's simplicity and very low noise performance even at 1600 ISO, with a cooling system this one is a killler! Yes, the cover glass comes out intact on the 450D just by working all around with a thin blade, this original cover glass is very, very bad reflection wise, it has no AR coatings at all, so for the MONO versions only I replace it with a astronomik clear glass filter, this one is IMHO the best filter available for this type of mod, it's very high qulity and excellent coatings that minimize reflections on bright stars, even RGB cameras will benefit from having one of this in place. I have several flats, this flat is from a camera that stil has some bits of CFA but it gives you a nice idea of what can be acheived with just polishing with the dry tip of the wooden tool: https://www.flickr.com/photos/37419943@N08/13434966625/ So far I did about 11 or 12 450D's most of them for mono conversion and some just cooled (RGB cameras) The cold finger is very easy to do, I do mine with a 2mm aluminium plate and grind the sensor contact area with a Dremmel tool till it fits on the sensor gap (about 1.3mm) but you also have to modify the camera's chasis (nothing special...) I don't have the measurements here now but I'm thinking on making a detailed tutorial on how to do the full cooling mod on the 450D once I have some good free time By now I have a working system with ZERO sensor fogging problems even under sub zero temperatures, tested at -10Cº during winter with no problems whatsoever, took me a loooooong time to figure a sollution out but I'm proud to say that it works amazingly well! I like to have a "normal" camera with all functions accessible as original, so for me this system is tops, I have a cooling system attached to a normal looking camera with all original functions, including remote cable access, this is because you don't really need to supercool the sensor to have a very clean image, I see no benefict or much difference between 0cº or -10Cº on noise levels, so the sweet stop of cooling in a DSLR is somewere around 0Cº. I don't have any comparo with RGB filters buit I supect that noise levels will be lower with a mono camera and LRGB filters especially lower color noise (less blotchy) and a bit better resolution, the mono camera even in simple LUM. is a tad sharper due to the fact that it doesn't interpolate pixels and therefore resolution is increased a litlle, now narrowband is a whole different story, even with a tad less sensitivity the 450D has amazing resolution and the same is true for the oldie 350D! Cheers, Luís
  12. And here some more steps of the process: Cheers, Luís
  13. Hey Alistair Indeed the 450D's are the best model to debayer IMHO, altough not quite as sensitive as the oldie 350D the noise free and good sensor behavior at 1600 ISO makes this one the best allround for NB work. As you said I've debayered quite a few by now using the wooden tool method, I killed also a couple sensors during the conversion, it's all a part of the process I'm afraid The difficult part is to get a clean sensor as the CFA remnants are really attached to the sensor surface, but what I do is polish just using the tip of the wooden tool at the same spot until I see no signs of CFA in that area, and I use one of those magnifier with a led ligh for electronics work, it's very helpfull, this is very time consuming but very effective, just go by areas untill you do all the sensor, polish, polish and then some more polish And I mean dry polish just appling moderate pressure on the tool as you go. See here a couple of flats and images of some of my 450D's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/37419943@N08/ Best, Luís
  14. Hi, No I do not remove the clear coat, with the scarping method it stays there, it can have some micro scratches but they don't show up on the final callibrated image, nor the litle specs of CFA, so don't get too obsessed with that, if you do you will kill the sensor Just make sure you dither the subs quite agressively and you will be ok. The 1000D is exactly the same as the 450D, so any on the 450D will be apliable on the 1000D Cheers
  15. BTW, check here the last image of M51 I did last saturday with my cooled mono 450D: http://www.astrobin.com/94428/0/ Cheers
  16. Hi guys! Been awhile By now I've debayered quite a few sensors (350D, 450D, 1000D, 1100D) and what I founs is this, the older cameras with bigger pixels do have a gain is sensitivity due to the large pixel size, the loss of microlenses is offset by the removal of the CFA and by quite a bit specially on the 350D, the 1000D is also very noticeabble as Pixueto has pointed out, it is correct that the light meter does overexpose the images on a debayered sensor, so this means that there is a gain in sensitivity, also I have some images done with half sensor debayered that prove this For the "newer" cameras there is a very slight loss in sensitivity unfortunately, but it's not much but for me exposing maybe 10% more and get a full resolution image in narrowband full of detail is well worth the slight sensitivity loss BTW, the 1100D sensor is BY FAR the most difficult one to debayer, the CFA is so stuck to the surface that is really complicated to remove! Best,
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