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Sparkie67

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    Huddersfield UK

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  1. Hi, that would make sense, considering the focuser would be pointed down so the 90 degree makes up the difference. it really did my head in this morning, I thought I’d broken something 😂 just tried my dslr and surprised at difference when using the 1.25 or 2 inch adapters. the 2inch seems to suit the camera much better. Can maintain focus over a greater distance that I can with the 1.25” adapter.
  2. Hi all. a quick question, and just to clarify what’s happening in my head. had a quick chance to observe the moon this morning, 1st time in a few weeks due to work etc. all set up 80mm WO refractor, eyepiece in the focus tube. Nothing, wouldn’t focus at all. Thinking it worked last time I used it. so dragged out my reflector scope, popped the eye piece, focused without a problem. it’s only now I remembered I had the 90 degree dielectric in last time. this brings me to the decision that abviously my scope is not designed to have an eye piece directly in the 1.25” on the focuser without an extension piece? is this normal for a telescope with 80mm of travel on the focuser. going to see what happens with my dslr camera attached directly or maybe this will need an extension tube also. just don’t fancy it sliding out and hitting the floor. many thanks andy
  3. Cool, will look at that as well. I think this has been apart before and reassembled badly or with an incorrect shaft. will order some stainless rod and see how it goes. thanks again.
  4. Hi, no it was all there. 3 large and about 10 small from the rear. When the focuser is working correctly, as you turn the normal focus knob, should the fine adjustment knob spin on its own shaft quickly. When I reassembled it the fine focus works, not smoothly, but the normal focuser is now jammed. The bearings in the housing won’t allow the fine focus knob to spin.
  5. Hi. a quick update. Finally got an Allen key to fit, 1/16” hex key, nice snug fit. the silver shaft is stuck in the brass housing. after gentle warming and a small pin punch I have managed to knock it out. the shaft has marks on it that stop it from rotating in the brass housing. the marks look like it’s been in a squashed evenly on either side, in 3 places. now if I filed them smooth with fine emery, what is to stop the shaft from then falling out of the housing. or are they there to stop the shaft from moving, but maybe the scope was dropped on the knob, forcing the indent into the brass. attached a picture but not sure if you can see the marks.
  6. Thank you will give that a go first. See what happens.
  7. Thanks, just ordered a set of Allan keys, typically the smallest that I need is missing from my set, and I can’t find it in the bottom of my tool bag either. A screw to remove the black knob, another to remove the larger silver knob. in the body there is 1 screw appears to be holding a collar, then a through hole which I can see a rotating brass collar with a screw in that. Looks easy enough to get apart though. thanks
  8. Thanks for the info. I thought it might be, but wanted to make sure. Looking at some videos and most focuser date clamped on the bottom of the housing. This one passes through the body which could be interesting to get out. I got the scope with a 1.25 and 2 diagonal with desiccant caps, standard tripod shoe and the WO clamp rings for £200, not sure if it was a bargain or not.
  9. Hi, thanks for letting me join. bought a telescope a few years ago. I recently acquired a WO zenithstar II ED doublet 80mm I’m trying to figure out if this is a 10:1 focuser, but the black knob just turns at the same speed as the larger 1. Looked on the WO site for instructions, but not sure if they apply to this model. I’d just like to be sure before I dismantle something that may not need it. attached are a couple of pictures. Many thanks Andy
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