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mattias

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About mattias

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    Nebula

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  • Location
    Torsby, Sweden
  1. Is there anyone out there that knows what factory and/or correct setup distance it is between the secondary mirror and the correction lens, or between the secondary lens holder and it's counterpart that holds the adjuster screws? As well as the height of the primary mirror measured towards its holder? I would like to do a base setup for the scope before I can do a proper collimation, due to the scope has been wrongfully adjusted before I bought it.
  2. Hi! Always check the frost levels in your area, because it can differ by meters from location to location even within a country. In Sweden, we have frost level maps available, and I think you might have this for UK as well. Where I live, around 60 deg (in the middle of Sweden, with winter temperatures between -5 -15), the frost level is around 2 meters and that means that you should dig slightly deeper than this to be sure not to get any movements on your pier or whatever you build with concrete base. Then you could, as an extra insurance, place 100mm styrofoam just under ground and at least 1-2 meters on each side to prevent frost to move downwards thde soil. The big job is about digging, and you could always rent a mini excavator if lazy like me. The pier could be 20-24 cm in diameter, with steel inserts and a concrete box base maybe 60x60x20 cm. don't forget to lay geotextile under it if unsure of the base. I think that this part should be the part where you spend most money and time. Then you will have a pier that stands still forever! Here is an example of such frost level map. The numbers indicate frost free level in meters. Good luck
  3. I think I understand. In this case, it's a macro lens with the ratio 1:1 at 20 cm. For the object to appear the same size on the chip as at the focal plane on the telescope the lens end needs to be as far as 20 cm from the focal plane on the telescope? If so, I would not gain anything at all putting the lens between the telescope and the camera. The 1:1 situation would appear anyway when you put the camera chip in the prime focus of the telescope. Am I right?
  4. So, if the lens acts like an ocular, how does the focal length of the lens corresponding to the focal length of the ocular? Would you for example gain higher magnification by choosing a wide lens instead of a zoom lens?
  5. The reason I posted here was that I intend to use it as a replacement for a barlow (at least I imaged that it could be used for it). My intentions with this setup are to take photos/film of planets only. I know that the step down ring will leave a coma around the image but that only affects the outer parts of the image and the planets would definitely end up in a small part of the center so that is not a problem in itself. Regarding weight this is something to evaluate. If I believe that the camera or lens/threads would break, I will find myself a good barlow instead :-)
  6. Hi everyone! I was thinking if it is possible to use a zoom lens mounted on the camera and connected directly to the telescope with a step down ring and T2 adapter as a replacement for a barlow? (as attached pic) I mean, the optics within the lens are much more sophisticated than a barlow, at least if you compare price versus optical quality. I've got a Canon EOS 600D and one of my lenses are the EF-S 60MM 2.8 Macro. It's extremely sharp and according to my calculations it would have a magnification factor of 1.92. (60x1.6/50) I suppose this would be able to compare against a x2 barlow? Another lens of mine is the EF-S 15-85, and att highest zoom that would give me a magnification factor of 2.72. One problem could of course be the focus distance but I think that in the case of the 60 mm it is not a big problem due to the very short lens. All the best Mattias
  7. I've been using Nikon for years, but when I got into astro photography Nikon simply didn't fit in at all. I really love the Nikon when it comes to EVERYTHING but astro photo but without any software API:s on the Nikon side you would be more or less out in the cold when it comes to control software. But as I said, for all other use, I find the Nikon in that price range to be much better in everyday handling than Canon.
  8. This could be something worth looking at. It can handle Bulb mode, time lapse etc etc. https://triggertrap.com It seems to handle a lot of DSLRs by wireless, including my EOS 600D. If I can get the camera dongle easily from Sweden, I will probably give it a try.
  9. Actually I bought that (600D) for the same reasons but I still haven't got the chance to try it on the night skies due to the terrible weather conditions we currently have here in Sweden. Here's one of several tests to consider: Canon Digital Rebel T2i (550D), T1i (500D), XSi (450D) and XS (1000D) Uncooled Long Exposure Dark Frame Noise & Temperature Testing -by Gary Honis The 600D and 550D will give exactly the same results. Handling-wise, you should also look at th 60D due to better grip and handling, something I realized after I bought the camera. But the image quality are probably the same even in comparison to the 600D.
  10. Just bought that one myself and I'm very pleased with the quality! A good macro and portrait lens indeed! Will be interesting to find out how it performs at the night sky scene as soon the clear skies appears. Best! Mattias
  11. mattias

    Hello from Sweden

    Välkommen Per :-) Bra forum även för oss Svenskar! Mattias --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=57.693526,11.930047
  12. How much does the Clip-filter affect the image when the IR filter is still in place? Do you find it useful "enough"?
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