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denodan

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  1. There is a challenge, like astrophotography it also saves individual frames, so depending on how well you learn processing, can pull much more out of it than just the visually final single stacked EAA image. so the challenge is dependant on your processing. It’s more limited if you just use for EAA images, etc but to get the best out of it still need processing skills or learn to process images. Will pull out twice what the EAA image will if processed. The beauty of this is you can be happy, if you wish just to view the final EAA image, or take it further and stack the individual frames.
  2. Well the Dwarf 2 is a good starter. Getting great reviews and lots of support from the astronomical community. Does not cost much, and very useful in the day also. very portable and a good place to start and get your feet wet, if you find doing eaa is. Bothersome as it can be awhile in setup time and has put people off. Dwarf 2 is setup in less than 3 mins and so light a quick and grab setup, and fir tramping also. dont discount the small Aperture as for its size does well. A great starting point for the pure beginner and always useful as it’s just as useful in daytime also
  3. The astrophotographers gear and setups well become a nince market, just like how most just use their phones and only professionals or fans nowdays are using DSLR cameras.
  4. That's a wrong comparison, because it suggests a big scope cannot be equipped with a modern sensor. Besides, to quote Scotty: Ye cannae change the laws of physics, captain". A big instrument captures more photons and has a higher resolution than a smaller. My APM 80 mm F/6 triplet is optically outstanding, but cannot match the resolution the 8" C8 has on planets. There is simply no contest. A 30mm scope will not show as much detail as, and will capture 4 times fewer photons from the same area in the sky than a 60 mm, this means the S/N is half as good. Resolution-wise, a little 30 mm lens will not be able to capture the moon like this: A lot also cokes does to the F ratio in astrophotography rather than aperture. An F4 with gather more light in a shorter time than an F6, but the F4 has a smaller scale image, the F6 with have a larger image, but duller at the same exposures as the F4. This is why the RASA at F2 Is becoming popular with many astrophotographers. Have hears so many times astrophotographers saying ahorter f ratios are better more so than the aperture. Seen many famous well known astrophotographers using tiny 2" telescopes so if aperture was king then all would be using much better apertures. Doing DSO, photography is totally different to planetry, which more aperture is better, more resoultion, more detail. Aperture for DSO photography less important here F ratio matters more. For galaxies and planets want long focal lenght and big aperture, DSO not so important, you want high F ratio for wider field of view. The RASA at F2 is very fast, but image scale is small. Still don't discount this 24mm lens on the Dwarf 2, can see much further than the eye, and knocks what you will ever see visually. To get the best out if this, you got to stack the riff files to get the most data and this gived you this option. This will still be better a 3" scope used visually and seen Andromeda Galaxy, with stacked tiffs far exceded what the eye will see unless you have a much larger aperture. Photographically any telescope is far more powerful than visually observing. Did I not read somewhere a 3" photographically to something like a 12" scope visually? If this is true then this little 24mm scope is like using a 120mm scope visually. Either way this knocks the socks off visual astronomy, so we'll worth the money
  5. Cannot compare to the EV scope, 4 5" to 24mm. Evrn stellina is underpowered compared to eVscope. What would have been good is making it compatible with your telescope, a telescope adapter and ability of removable lens so can hook up stright to a telescope, or better yet offer a different lens, so a 30mm at extra cost. So removable lenses would have been great, but it's design may have prevented this or attacting it to your telescope
  6. I have seen the small aperture won't do much, but your wrong. MY s21 Samdung Ultra has a much smaller lens aperture and have seen many do amazing results with it. Sure bigger aperture is better, but if it was all about aperture and mattered then why are so many well known astrophotographers using small 50mm refractors?, if aperture was so important why are they not using 8 or 10" refractors. I have seen some good results from this small aperture so do think a small aperture is limited, if that was the case the well known astrophotographers would not be using small refractors? And remember your phone aperture is smaller yet dome great work don't with them. But yes to get the best out of these need to process individual images through deep sky stacker, etc and the lazy geek on you tube has a great image of the Andromeda galaxy from Tokyo polluted skies. It's a great little scope to do EAA or get wet doing astrophotography. It's default is EAA and really made for these people who like EAA like me, but can take it further, by simply processing the individual images, if you wish through deep sky stacker for better results, so accually caters for those who want to go a little beyond EAA else you can get good results just live viewing and seeing the stacked final single image. I got one have pre ordered one, and cost is not great for what you get, irs value fir money
  7. Found the perfect red dot finder. Hate the talrad, they are big, chucky, and ugly. The foot print is to big. So found something better. Was looking on ebay and came across, red dot finders with a laser on the side. Ideal for astronomy use, do t want to bend down, use laser to get you in the area, or red dot if you prefer. Gives the best of both worlds. Getting the red dot with green laser. Just watch out, some lasers are adjustable and some not. The one I am getting has 3 screws which can adjust laser
  8. For me the selling point of the AZ EQ6 is the encoders and what makes it worth it is, can do alighment when done can manually move mount to any object, faster and more natural than having to wait for the mount to slew, so better and faster that alone is the selling point for me
  9. Anyone ditched the SE or Evolution mount for the Skywatchet AZ EQ6? in alt alz mode this is how celestron should have designed their mount. Out to the side means no hitting mount as some like to do EAA with camera stick out the back. The issue with the se and evo series is that camea limits the usefulness if the mount and camera hits the mount unless using a diagonal. The Skywatcher does not have this issue. Also great duel purpose mount, either EQ for imaging or alt alz mount for visual, so like doing both ideal. Also as it has higher quality motors and better tracking system should track better
  10. Sound like you got a dud to me. Telrad are just to big for an SCT, apart from the bigger scopes frankly look so stupid on an 8" sct or even a 9.25. The foot print is miles to big, ugly and stupid when a red dot finder basically does the same job. Using the standard red dot finder with my 9.25, compliments my 9×50 right angle celestron finder. The red dot finder not fansy works well. Its only for basic star alighment and gets the job done. Don't need much to just get a star aligh so why a stupid looking overkill monster? It does not really need to be that large? Why it is beats me. The battery compartment is very poor, 2 bits of foam rubber is very poor. Have heard of issues with Telrad also broken battery wires, glass falling out, switch breaking. In every brand its a gamble if you get a good one or bad one. Which is why you have a warranty
  11. There are good and bad in everything. Have heard lots of issues with talked also. Just because a few get a bad experience does not mean rubbish. You can buy something with a good reputation and get a bad one. I hate telrad, to big, bulky and look homemade. Poor battery compartment is very amature like, not professional at all. I like the starpointer pro and a good in-between telrad which is high and rigel one. I perfer the much smaller footprint of starlointer pro. These days people buying a product, have an issue and claim rubbish. I have a Lunt 70mm ED refractor, f6. Known to be great quailty and highly praised. Had lots of issues, screws missing, not dont up tight, objective lens miles out of collimation, sent Lunt back the objective to get it recollected, all fixed and now a great scope. One bad egg does not mean all bad
  12. I would not want or recommend dew shields on 15x100 binoculars, they are allteady top heavy and adding weight makes matters worse. Better off using dew straps which I am getting for my 25x100 binoculars as this minimizes weight.
  13. Getting a binocular 25x100 bundle from Astronz in New Zealand and get them made to their specs as it's a shop run by astronomers and sell quailty gear with great customer service. Everything I have read anything smaller your not getting the wow factor and 100mm are miles better than 80mm from what I have read. So want the wow factor and if you can afford 100mm is the ones to go for.
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