KEJ

My other little bracket just arrived, so now I will mount the ASIAIR Pro on the scope. Maybe this way around or I will reverse it, see once I add the cables.

Tell me about it, I went to bed around 01:30, up before 06:00, strangely enough I feel tired. Yes, I watched a few YouTube video's and then setup in the spare room to play. Personally and early days, but I think the device is pretty awesome. My Fits files were in B&W, so I used pipp to get the colour out and my other school boy error as I was using a crop sensor camera(DSLR Nikon D3300) was to get the FL of the WO Z61(360mm) and multiply it by 1.5, so in the App for my main camera I made it 540mm and funny enough the PA would not work. Back to 360mm and bingo, its just very impressive how it all fits together. Actually I just did a re-tweak in Photoshop.

So I tried the ASIAIR Pro last night. 21 X 3min exposures using a Nikon DSLR(D3300), I need to experiment with ISO etc.......tried Live Stacking, although this was via DSS and the guiding is pretty impressive also, really pleased with the device.

Short term I have found an old eyepiece lens camera holder that I have attached to a tripod leg and fitted the ASIAIR to that(Fig1). Long term I have ordered another bracket from Amazon similar to the one holding my guide scope and I will probably use that on the righthand side of the scope(Fig2) Fig1 - short term Fig2 - Long term

Sounds like a plan as long as its not too busy.

Of course. Mine already had a WO finder bracket on the top left of the scope, so I have used that for guiding(ZWO camera + scope). Then earlier today, I also ordered off Amazon a similar bracket to go on the right hand side, I will then mount the ASIAIR Pro on that. I know what you mean about the weight and cables, but I think that's the best option for the moment for me anyway, maybe if I had a longer dovetail plate (245+) then it could have gone on there closer to the centre of gravity. I will also possibly try to take some of the weight of the cables and distribute that on the tripod legs, so just enough slack for movement, if that makes sense.

fingers crossed

I have the EQ-Mode cable as well.........just need the weather to try it all out.

Thank you all. I did email ZWO/ASI yesterday and on the ASIAIR Pro product page asked the question(still waiting for it to appear). Earlier So, I did once again try, but on the initial config page you can only make active one of the options(so pick main or guide) using the same camera. Then once you are using the App, the same applies really. I then tested my Nikon D800(FF) for imaging and ASI120MC-S for guiding and that seemed to work fine(indoors daytime test). Yesterday I tested my Nikon D3300(crop) for imaging and ASI120MC-S for guiding and that seemed to work fine(indoors daytime test).

Thanks for replying. I did try that, but I tried so many things, I might go back through in a more methodical order, could be something daft like you can overcome it by configuring the imaging camera first or vice versa! I did also wonder if the cameras have a config file, simple text change(add 02) to name etc. I know the ZWO ASI120MC-S is probably not the best camera in the world for DSO, but seeing as I have them, thought I would give them a go, my goto for the moment is the DSLR, but curious and want to overcome this issue. I will set everything up again now and have a play.......watch this space.

Hi Yesterday I received my ASIAIR Pro to go along with my AZ-GTI mount and various cameras. It's worth saying that I am very new to the world of DSO. Stage1 Imaging: Nikon DSLR Guiding: ASI120MC-S (camera 1) So, I had a quick run through in the kitchen(as it was daytime) after first backing up the SD card and updating the firmware on the ASIAIR. Now, with the ASIAIR Pro cabled to the AZ-GTI, my ZWO ASI120MC-S(guiding) plugged into a guide scope and my Nikon DSLR(imaging) connected to WO Z61, I was ready to go. Next I configured them in the App and it all seemed to work well and I could traverse to various objects on my kitchen ceiling that appeared to line up with the related objects as they would be positioned in the night sky. I could take pictures and they would be copied to both the DSLR and my IPhone - all good so far. Stage2 Imaging: ASI120MC-S (camera 2) Guiding: ASI120MC-S (camera 1) Next, (don't ask) as I have two ZWO ASI120MC-S cameras, I thought ok, lets try using them for both the imaging and the guiding. So, I unplugged my DSLR, extended the Z61 and plugged one of the ASI120's into the scope Z61. This time however, when I went into the App, it seemed to get confused, it detected each camera, but it would appear the App only lets you use one at a time. So I could alter between using one for imaging and the other for guiding, but not both at the same time, which I obviously want to do. Question Has anyone come across similar issues and if so, how did you overcome them ? Even wondering if the cameras firmware has a config file that I could rename it........I will have a further play this afternoon, but thought in the meantime I would ask the question on here, I have also emailed ZWO and dropped a question on the ASIAIR website. Thanks in advance ps: (don't ask) I had one ZWO ASI120MC-S that I bought a few years ago and recently when I recently got the WO Z61 that came with another ! along with a Meade DSI II I bought years ago and never used, all of which I now suspect will all be sold!!!

Hi I recently bought one and (yesterday) received my ASIAIR Pro to go with it. It's worth saying that I am also relatively new to the DSO world, but to me it seems brilliant. AZ-GTI on the SkyWatcher wedge(EQ-Mode) coupled with a WO Z61 using a DSLR for imaging and ZWO guide scope and camera. We are also just in the process of testing the updated(beta software) SkySafari Plus so that going forward you only need one device(old days you needed two devices, Apple IOS issue). Personally I love it and below are a few images I have taken, no where near the best in the world compared to some of the boys on here, but I'm please and hopefully can only get better.

Hi I just received my ASIAIR Pro yesterday, so had a quick setup and play in the kitchen. 1 That is also my understanding. 2 Again that is my intention. 3 Don't have one - unsure. My setup is having the AZ-GTI mount (EQ-Mode) then using a guide scope/zwo camera(guide) and Nikon DSLR(imaging). When testing using the ZWO or the DSLR as a main/imaging camera, all pictures taken went through to the Apps, either on my iPhone or iPad(wifi). 4 I selected various objects from within the ASIAIR App and it all seemed to function correctly and move the mount and camera to the correct positions(approx as indoors/no polar alignment) and the DB (Database) in the App has more than enough objects for me(without using SkySafari) although I do also intend to try and configure that at a later date. 5 No experience myself, but I know other people have used them. Sorry doesn't really help that much.

** Update ** ******************************************************************************************************** William Optics (Tim - Taiwan) replied to an email of mine. He basically confirmed for a Nikon DSLR and my setup, using the 61A Flattener etc the gap should be set to 12.9mm ********************************************************************************************************

Tim at William Optics(Taiwan) replied to an email of mine. For a Nikon DSLR the gap should be 12.9mm If you use DSLR, the setting for your flattener should be 12.9mm. Setup: ZS61 + Flat61a + t mount + DSLR (settings 12.9mm).

Stu Thank you, I know most of the guys on here have super high quality images, but I am pleased. Plus, I know I didn't have my polar alignment 100%, could have maybe gone out on the moors for a darker site, coupled with more exposures and longer focal length and it was even slightly breezy. But thank you.

So my first decent attempt at DSO (thanks Stuart and ok no where near the standards of people on here, but I'm pleased) M81 & M82 from the City, no filters or modified camera, I was using a full frame, next time I will use my DX(cropped camera). The battery died on my wireless intervalometer as it was a bit chilly after about 50mins else I would have gone for more exposures. SharpCap polar aligned (only with fair), one star alignment with SynScan and then I used an older version of SkySafari (not beta version) to find these. Using a Nikon D800, AZ-GTI, WO Z61 & WO 61A Flattener (set at 12.9mm, still not 100% sure that is correct). 360mm FL, approx 20/25 x 2min exposures, had to crop in (hence next time using the DX) and these were towards the bottom of the frame.

Pems hi Thank you for replying. Sorry, just took some test shots and added my last comment then saw your reply..............but dinner was on the table(Boss was calling). I did mention above, but it was a drawn out question.............I have a Nikon D3300 (cropped DX) and a Nikon D800 (FF). Adapter Nikon M48 T-Adapter - say just over 1 cm,. However, I would say approx 6mm screws onto/over the Flattener, meaning there is possibly about a 4mm gap. Without taking it to bits(all setup ready for tonight) it could be less or more. I will try your suggestion tomorrow - thank you. Dark Picture Picture dimming was my fault(D800), school boy error, the LCD/LED display not that bright on reviewing pictures(after), but very bright on preview(before), when viewed on Computer straight from SD card after all fine. Just back to the settings.......I did try 14.40(M52), then 12.90(M48) and even 0. 12.9 appeared to give me the sharper corners, I haven't tried any other settings yet Thanks

Further play. 12.9 seems the best for me. Comments welcome. Cheers

Hi I hope you don't mind me asking, but did you get to the bottom of this ? Could I please ask for some technical assistance on a small issue I have with my William Optics Z61 scope + 61A Flattener. Basically, I have now added Nikon M48 T adapter to my setup so that I can take some astrophotography pictures by attaching a camera. So I have the following configuration: Camera – M48 adapter – 61A Flattener – Z61 scope I believe I have correctly adjusted the flattener using the calculation for a Nikon : 69.2 - 54.8 = 14.40 setting for the WO flattener. based on M52 Or 67.7 - 54.8 = 12.9 setting for the WO flattener. based on M48 So in the end looking at the diagram assumed I required to set it at 12.9 based on my adapter. I am also assuming this is the same distance for both a DX(cropped sensor ) and FF(Full Frame sensor) Nikon cameras(DSLR). The very odd thing is for my DX camera(cropped D3300) the picture seems fine, but for the FF camera (D800) the picture is very dark. Ok so you assume it’s the ISO or shutter speed and I am on Manual, but I have adjusted the ISO up and down, same with the shutter speeds up and down etc. I am starting to wonder is the Z61 + A61 really designed just for cropped(DX) cameras or do you think I have done something wrong, then of course I came across this and now as you suggested should I be closed setting it to Zero ? I hope all that makes sense and I look forward to your reply. Hopefully thanks in advance

The other very useful info I was unaware of, quote from above: I have it in equatorial mode with the wedge,i set it facing north at 90 minus my latitude In my case approx 90 - 50 = 40 ! I had initially had my set to 50 degrees!!!!! You live and learn.

Another add-on from David Parks https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/658474-skywatcher-synscanaz-gti-alignment-instructions/ Two parts Part01 As a precursor, create a User Object > Terrestrial Objects and specify Axis 1 = -90 / Axis 2 = 90. Name it EQ Home. You can Goto this position any time you need to return the scope to EQ Home, and more importantly, any time you need to get your mount to agree with the real world. If your scope doesn’t actually match after this Goto, then you can loosen clutches and move your mount/scope into EQ Home. This ensures your mount’s Axis actually matches the real world scope position. Once it does, don’t loosen your clutches for anything (unless you have turned Auxiliary Encoders on) 1. First perform a 2 or 3 star alignment Before your first alignment: 1a. With the GTi power off, loosen clutches and set your scope in the EQ Home position 1b. Turning on the power, the GTi Axis will be reset to (-90, 90), and now matches the actual position 1c. Open Synscan, connect in EQ Mode, and check under Utility > Information to confirm that your Axis reads (-90, 90), and the Az/Alt reads (-90, 90). If it doesn’t, there is likely a previous alignment still in memory. Reset Alignment and check Utility > Information again. (Current version 1.16.1 on iOS will require you to close and remove Synscan from memory) 1d. Proceed with a 2 or 3 star alignment 2. Then polar align with 1 star by adjusting the EQ base controls You got it, just follow the Synscan prompts, pretty straight forward 3. Select Reset Alignment in the synscan app 4. Adjust mount again (loosen clutches) and return the mount to home position Switch these two steps, and don’t loosen clutches 3. Select and Goto your EQ Home User Objects > Terrestrial Objects. (This keeps your scope and Axis in sync) 4. Reset Alignment (and close and remove Synscan from memory if you are using iOS 1.16.1) 5. Perform a 2 or 3 star alignment again Note: Steps 1a and 1b above is the same as a GoTo your EQ Home User Object, and then loosening clutches to move your scope into the matching EQ Home position. Hope this helps! EDIT: Oops, the saved EQ Home User Object should be Axis 1 = -90, Axis 2 = 90 AZ Mode North Level is Axis 1 = 0, Axis 2 = 0 Edited by davidparks, 22 April 2019 - 07:37 AM. tkottary and trurl like this #22 davidparks Viking 1 TOPIC STARTER Posts: 604 Joined: 20 Jul 2017 Loc: Battle Creek, MI - USA Part 02 Posted 21 April 2019 - 11:35 PM Getting your AZ-GTi right with the world: Key to successful alignments and GoTo’s are having the following 3 elements in sync: 1. Digital Axis - This is your mount, where the GTi thinks it is pointing 2. Physical Axis - This is your scope, where it is pointing in the real world 3. Synscan Az/Alt - This is the sky model that Synscan uses to translate celestial coordinates into digital Axis positions. You can view your Digital Axis and Az/Alt in Synscan using the Utility > Information screen. You can confirm a sky model is present if there are stars listed under Alignment > Align with Sync Getting 1, 2, and 3 on the same page: 1. Power on your mount, this should set your Axis to (AZ Mode 0, 0)(EQ Mode -90, 90), or 1. Create and Goto a User Object > Terrestrial Object for AZ Mode with Axis1 = 0, Axis2 = 0 (AZ Mode North Level) 1. Create and Goto a User Object > Terrestrial Object for EQ Mode with Axis1 = -90, Axis2 = 90 (EQ Mode Home) 2. Loosen clutches, move your scope into Home position Home position for AZ Mode is scope pointing at the due north horizon Home position for EQ Mode is shown in my user account avatar picture, pointing at the celestial pole 3. Select Reset Alignment in Synscan from the Alignment screen. In AZ Mode, Az/Alt will read (0, 0) In EQ Mode, Az/Alt will read (-90, 90) If Reset Alignment isn’t available, then there is no current sky model and Az/Alt is already in Sync You will also need to close Synscan and remove it from device memory if you are using Synscan Pro for iOS version 1.16.1. Hopefully this reported bug will be fixed in the next version. This bug doesn’t effect Synscan for Windows PC. I don’t know for Android. After any alignment routine, you will notice that Az/Alt no longer matches Axis. This is the result (and function) of Confirming Center when centering alignment stars. The discrepancy between Az/Alt and Axis compensates for physical placement errors (north, level, polar, etc.) If you are experiencing wonky Goto behavior, make sure you have your 1, 2, 3’s in order Edited by davidparks, 22 April 2019 - 07:39 AM. Addition : North-Level Alignment is only available in AZ Mode. Yes it is worth roughly centering Polaris when using EQ Mode. If Polaris is not visible, set your scope as best you can pointing north, and elevated to 90-Your Latitude. Reset Alignment, 2-Star Alignment, Polar Alignment, Reset Alignment, 2-Star Alignment This should leave your mount accuracy polar aligned, and star aligned for GoTo operation You should be able to do many minute exposures without star trails. How many will depend greatly on your focal length. Be sure to practice, getting as much experience as you can before you trip, have fun!

Popped out last night with the "Equatorial Goto(German)" settings. Polar aligned, then one star alignment and managed to get a poor Comet Atlas C/2019 Y4 using my Nikon DSLR(unmodified) and 300mm lens F4.5-5.6, cropped in and stacked.

Can I pick your brains please as most of you seem far more experienced than I am on all of this. Based on my setup above: For my Mount Type I have selected (Alt-Az Goto) and I am saying that seems to work. Although, I am thinking as I type, actually I am using a wedge so strictly speaking should I be selecting a Equatorial mount type, I am guessing ? And thinking about it, I seem to remember watching some Youtube videos and one guy(I think) stating that you should use (Equatorial Goto (German)) ? So part of me is thinking actually, I should probably be using the German option, else am I being fooled into thinking its pointing at an object I cannot see with the naked eye and assuming all is well! I hope my question makes sense that really I should be selecting a EQ option? Comments/suggestions appreciated thank you.

I thought this was a very useful post on Cloudy Nights by David Parks back in 2017 for Skywatcher Synscan/AZ-GTi Alignment Instructions. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/658474-skywatcher-synscanaz-gti-alignment-instructions/ information is not official nor authoritarian, it is simply my conclusions from thoughtful testing and careful observation. All described behaviors are based upon insight and conclusion, not upon actual knowledge of the Synscan code. In other words, my best guess Synscan Pro for iOS, ver 1.16.1 seems to have an incomplete Reset Alignment bug whereby the current sky model is not removed from memory. I have reported this bug to Skywatcher. Hopefully they will investigate and resolve. Synscan Pro for Windows PC, ver 1.16.0 is correctly removing the sky model from memory when you Reset Alignment. Power on Mount Axis will be reset to the default position. Synscan Connect AZ Mode: The Axis default position will be (0, 0) EQ Mode: The Axis default position will be (-90, 90) Az/Alt will be set to the Axis plus offset of the current sky model. The offset will be (0, 0) if no sky model exists resulting in an Az/Alt of (0,0) for AZ Mode, or (0, Your Latitude) for EQ Mode. For Synscan Pro for iOS ver 1.16.1 Synscan will remember the previous sky model and offsets, unless you do the following, in order: 1. Reset Alignment 2. Remove Synscan from device memory If a sky model is present, stars will be listed in Align with Sync Reset Alignment will sync Az/Alt to Axis in AZ Mode, and Az/Alt to Axis plus Your Latitude in EQ Mode. Reset Alignment ALONE, DOES NOT remove the sky model, you must also close Synscan, remove it from device memory, and re-launch. (No need to power off/on the mount, or disconnect wireless)(This is an APP ONLY operation to remove the sky model from memory). Close and re-open is not enough, you must remove the app from background memory. Best Practice: Always remove the Synscan APP from device memory after Reset Alignment, and then re-open and re-Connect the APP to the mount. Synscan Pro for Windows PC ver 1.16.0 will still retain a sky model if exited and re-launched, as it should. It also correctly removes the sky model when you Reset Alignment. Alignments Any type of Alignment will add to an existing sky model, or create one if one does not already exist. Confirming center of any object will add error correction offsets to the current sky model. These offsets will correct for slight in-accuracies in geographical location/time and mount leveling. They won’t compensate for any variations in the gravitational constant in your backyard. The point here is, that the sky model/error offsets can get wonky if your adding new data to an old existing sky model. 1-Star Alignment The mount will slew to the selected star coordinates from current Synscan Az/Alt. The accuracy is entirely dependent upon the current Synscan Az/Alt being real-world-correct and the accuracy of the mounts level. Confirming center will sync the Az/Alt to the star coordinates, add the star to Align with Sync, and create the sky model. The accuracy of the sky model will be based on just the offsets created by the centering action of one star. Brightest Star Alignment Manually center the 1st star. The mount will NOT MOVE to the 1st star, you are expected to slew or move the mount to the 1st star yourself. This requires you to be able to look up and identify the 1st star yourself. Confirming center will sync the Az/Alt to the 1st star coordinates. The mount will then slew to the 2nd star coordinates from the current Az/Alt. Accuracy will be dependent upon the mounts level and how accurate you centered the 1st star. Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 2nd star coordinates, add the stars to Align with Sync, and create the sky model. The accuracy of the sky model will be based on the offsets created by the centering action of the two stars, and the error calculated between the 2 stars (linear). The offsetscompensate for level inaccuracies, and will be applied to subsequent Gotos. North-Level Alignment (AZ Mode Only) This alignment is similar to a Brightest Star Alignment, except you don’t need to be able to identify stars, you just need to know which way is North. Set the scope/mount pointing north and level. Bubble level and smart phone compass, and even best eyeball guess is accurate enough in most cases. Confirming north and level will sync Az/Alt to 0, 0. The mount will then slew to the 1st star coordinates from the current Az/Alt. Accuracy will be dependent upon the accuracy of the north and level placement. Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 1st star coordinates. The mount will then slew to the 2nd star coordinates from the current Az/Alt. Accuracy will be dependent upon the mounts level and how accurate you centered the 1st star. Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 2nd star coordinates, add the stars to Align with Sync, and create the sky model. The accuracy of the sky model will be based on the offsets created by the centering action of the two stars, and the error calculated between the 2 stars (linear). The offsetscompensate for level inaccuracies, and will be applied to subsequent Gotos. 2-Star Alignment (EQ Mode Only) The mount will slew to the 1st star coordinates from the current Synscan Az/Alt. The accuracy is entirely dependent upon the current Synscan Az/Alt being real-world-correct and the accuracy of the mounts level. Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 1st star coordinates. The mount will then slew to the 2nd star coordinates from the current Az/Alt. Accuracy will be dependent upon the mounts level and how accurate you centered the 1st star Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 2nd star coordinates, add the stars to Align with Sync, and create the sky model. The accuracy of the sky model will be based on the offsets created by the centering action of the two stars, and the error calculated between the 2 stars (linear). The offsetscompensate for level inaccuracies, and will be applied to subsequent Gotos. 3-Star Alignment This is the most accurate alignment because error offsets can be triangulated instead of calculated linearly. The mount will slew to the 1st star coordinates from the current Synscan Az/Alt. The accuracy is entirely dependent upon the current Synscan Az/Alt being real-world-correct and the accuracy of the mounts level. Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 1st star coordinates. The mount will then slew to the 2nd star coordinates from the current Az/Alt. Accuracy will be dependent upon the mounts level and how accurate you centered the 1st star Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 2nd star coordinates. The mount will then slew to the 3rd star coordinates from the current Az/Alt. Accuracy will be dependent upon the mounts level and how accurate you centered the 2nd star. Confirming center will sync Az/Alt to the 3rd star coordinates, add the stars to Align with Sync, and create the sky model. The accuracy of the sky model will be based on the offsets created by the centering action of the three stars, and the error calculated between the 3 stars (triangular). The offsetscompensate for level inaccuracies and will be applied to subsequent Gotos. Polar Alignment (EQ Mode Only) Polar alignment in Synscan requires that you first perform a Bright, 2, or 3 star alignment. I recommend 3 star for greatest accuracy. The mount will slew to the chosen star for Polar Alignment. Confirming center will sync Az/Alt and use the offsets plus current sky model to calculate latitude and altitude base adjustments. Synscan will move the mount accordingly and ask you to center the star using the base latitude adjustment. Center the star as close as you can using just the one base adjustment. Synscan will move again and ask you to center the star using the base altitude adjustment. Center the star as close as you can using just the one base adjustment. Since you have “pulled the rug out from under” the current sky model by adjusting the base, you will need to Reset Alignment, and perform a new Star Alignment. Synscan Pro for iOS ver 1.16.1 will require that you remove Synscan from memory after Reset Alignment, re-launch Synscan, re-connect in EQ Mode, and perform the Star Alignment of your choice. The accuracy of the Polar Alignment will generally be good enough for visual, un-guided short exposure imaging, and long exposure guiding. You can perform another iteration of PA/SA to achieve greater accuracy. Tracking In EQ Mode, tracking is easily accomplished by setting the RA(Azimuth) gear rate of rotation to sidereal. This rate is constant. Accuracy is primarily dependent upon the precision of gear and motor manufacturing. In AZ Mode, the mount will use the current date/time/location and the object coordinates to calculate the proper gear rate of rotation for both axis. These rates are variable depending on the position in the sky of the object. Eastern objects move up faster than they move right, Southern objects move right faster than they move up or down, Western objects move down faster than they move right. Northern objects don’t go to market, stay home, or go wee wee wee. If you’re in the Southern Hemisphere than Northern objects do, in fact, go wee wee wee. Point-and-Track (AZ Mode Only) Tracking does not require an alignment or a sky model. Select the object from the appropriate list and choose Point-and-Track. (For EQ Mode, just point the scope at the object and select the appropriate tracking rate from the tracking menu in the upper right corner of Synscan) Point-and-Go Synscan will use your mobile device’s accelerometer to slew the mount to the general area of the sky your device is pointing at. You can then further refine the position by selecting an object from a nearby object list. Point your device and press Point-and-Go from the Utility Menu. You do not need to continue pointing while the mount slews. Although I hope you find this information clear, concise, and useful, I hope even more that we all experience more Clear Skies!