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About daneel

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  1. I love the cobalt blue central part of the nebula, that really is stunning, nice palette choices and crispy contrast. Ramin
  2. Breathtaking, love the detail on the obscuring dust. It's a great interplay of figure and ground, those dark nebulae are worth the extra time.
  3. Nice one, you've caught the structure nicely.
  4. That's lovely Gina. Can't wait to see your mosaic.
  5. Amazing image. Devon's not just about cream teas is it?
  6. Hi Ant, Apparently it's a tricky object visually. The deep sky observing thread below says you need "low magnification and something like a UHC filter": http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/152068-magnification/page__hl__+cave%20+nebula#entry1531308 It's really dim and therefore well named; I couldn't see a thing with a 10 second exposure while aligning on the target. You usually see something with the 383L after 10 seconds, even faint galaxies, but imaging this one was an act of faith. I guess that's why the image required about 17 hours of data. There are some juicy targets coming up in the Ea
  7. Knew it was chilly last night, power on cooler was just 10% to get to -10 C. Ha 48 x 10 minutes (red) OIII 27 x 10 minutes (blue) SII 27 x 10 minutes (green) Celestron 80 mm f 7.5 Atik 383L+ Stacked in MaximDL (median combine) Two histogram stretches in Pixinsight, then individual bands stretched in the curve tool
  8. After the clear night last night I thought the image was deep enough to post. Scope: Celestron 80 ED 80mm f 7.5 R: 29 x 10 min H alpha G: 29 x 10 min S II B: 16 x 10 min O III Aligned and stacked in Maxim DL processed in PixInsight (DBE background subtraction, histogram transformation and two stretches with curve transformation.
  9. Thanks for your suggestion Olly I loved the M27 image you posted recently. Ten minutes seems like a bit of a gamble here. Clouds, satellites, and aeroplanes (we're under one of the Heathrow stacks in Amersham) are another kind of noise that increases linearly with exposure time. But I'll have a go when it clears. Also do you have equal exposure time for each wavelength, or give, say H alpha a bit longer because it has more of the structure in the case of M27? Le Grange is on my list of things to do before I pop my clogs, so hopefully I'll get to learn from you first hand. Those images were use
  10. At the risk of sounding like an advertisement my QHY5 finder guider package from Modern Astronomy fixed all my guiding problems. I prefer using the computer to look through the viewfinder rather than craning my neck at awkward angles. I've never had a problem finding a guide star even with the gain at 50% because the field of view is so large. The camera sensitivity is adequate even at exposures of 0.5 seconds which I use for guiding. Now with Maxim DL I plate-solve the guider image and use that to sync the alignment. The I can click on an object in the guide image and slew to that exact point
  11. Added some more data from last night and annotated the image in PixInsight. Managed another 7 x 5 minute subs in each band but have to admit that I nodded off at 2. Woke up to find the guide star had disappeared at 4:30 as it had clouded over. Dashed out to shut the obsie worried that it might be raining but fortunately it wasn't.
  12. Flats were worth it, that's a gorgeous image Gina. I use a T-shirt too!
  13. That's beautiful Carole. It was definitely worth spending time re-processing this image, you've teased out the structure very nicely. Ramin
  14. Tried my first Hubble palette image of the Dumbbell. Clouds and short nights limited the exposure time, but managed these over two nights: 10 x 300s Ha = green 4 x 300s OIII = blue 4 x 300s SII = red There's a sort of diagonal grain across the image. I'm not sure if this is because my flats weren't right - I did flats for each filter. The image was taken at a set point of -10 C, and so were the darks. It's interesting that a lot of stars don't show up in OIII but they do in Ha (not surprising!) and SII (more surprising). The background OIII looks like more than half the stars have been exting
  15. I recommend getting APT which is an amazing piece of software designed specifically for DSLRs. Then you can connect to your laptop and control almost any aspect of your images. I think it's written with EOS cameras in mind e.g. it can read the temperature of the camera and write this into the raw image file (useful to make sure your dark image temperature matches your light image temperature). It can connect to PHD guiding software to dither images, etc. and it's only 12.70 euros which is well worth it. http://www.ideiki.com/astro/ I also found a mains (12V cigarette plug) battery pack from as
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