toxic

very nice indeed Carol

AWESOME WELL IT IS. 

blooming awesome Peter i can spend ages looking at these

i have used the stock 50mm f1.8 at f7.1 and the 70-300mm f4-5.6L at f5.6 and f7.1 for astro and they are great lenses - the Cassiopeia image was taken with the 50mm at f7.1 on the EOS 200D and orion with the 70-300 at F7.1 on the EOS 90D the reason for that f stop is for the stars to be round in the corners and that is all.and both used on the old star adventurer.

that is way to high you need to have it around 10% the lower  the more stars it detects

21st to 22nd from the back garden canon eos 90D with 70-300 f4/5.6L at 300mm on the star adventurer.
Orion is 145 times 30 seconds exposures at iso 6400 and the horsehead is 57 times 30 second exposures at iso 6400.

Absolutely Awesome Richard

just put a lens on the camera and put it on a tripod focus on a bright object (the moon) and take some short exposures of around 3 to 5 seconds (not of the moon them exposures would be too long and iso too high) with a 50mm lens at iso 1600 to 3200 and take lots of them in raw file format then stack them with deep sky stacker ,for the moon you would need iso 100 and exposure time around 250th to 500th of a second as a test hope this helps.

22 hours ago, spacedog said:

Hello toxic so basically what you are saying is the aperture is governed by the scope,no matter what i set camera on,is that correct ?

yes the aperture is the size of the mirror or front element  of the telescope and can not be altered by the camera only by physically putting something in front of the lens/mirror so it collects less light by say putting a scope cover on with a hole in it.

you will not be able to change the aperture on the camera as your scope has no iris/aperture blades the only things you can control on the camera are - ISO  - CAPTURE TIME .

loads of cheap used dslr's on here https://www.cashconverters.co.uk/search?type=product&phrase=canon+eos&page=1

11 hours ago, Jp114 said:

Good work. Is the camera modified?

thanks no the camera is stock and no filters just flats and bias frames no darks

+2 for over exposure

hi i use the Microsoft lifecam 300 hd with a home made adapter to the 9x50 finder (remove webcam lens attach 35mm film canister to front of webcam housing dont forget to cut the bottom of the canister off lol and unscrew back from finder and added a home made tube to it with a 1.25 inch hole to fit the film canister or eye piece) and its still going strong even on the 250 quattro S and thats since 2011 no need to change what works.

3 minutes ago, LeeHore7 said:

HI

Yes that's the issue, I only want a short interval time and exposure as long as I wish but this intervalometer doesn't do that, so must be one out there that does, but thanks for your help

yes but if you think about it it isnt actually a longer interval time it is also counting down the exposure time as well

Deneb Area in the constellation CYGNUS showing the north american nebula and the pelican nebula as well as many other deep sky objects.
173 EXPOSURESE AT 30 SECONDS AT ISO 6400 AND F6.3 
CANON 70-300 F4-5.6L ON THE EOS 90D AT 70mm on the Skywatcher STar Adventurer.
stacked in deep sky stacker and processed in adobe photoshop cs5.

On 14/09/2020 at 20:33, Johns22 said:

Resolved - the intervalometer requires the interval between exposures to be set at least 1 sec longer than the exposure time...

Is this normal for intervalometers? It means doubling the session time to capture the images.

on my intervalometer and canon eos 90D and the 200D you need to  add the exposure time to the interval time for it to work properly but thankfully on the 90D it is built into the camera

1 hour ago, happy-kat said:

What did you process it with?

adobe photoshop cs5  and fitsworks 4

1 minute ago, happy-kat said:

Looks good, lovely to see just 30 seconds used.

thanks i only did 30 seconds as i have not figured out how to use the onboard intervalometer in the 90D lol😊

385 x 30 second exposures at iso 6400 total 3 hours 12 minutes 30 seconds.

no darks or flats

with the canon 70-300 f4/5.6 L at 300mm and F5.6 on the eos 90D (unmodified) and the SW Star adventurer.

4 different nights of capture. not very good seeing.

very nice that Billy 

15 minutes ago, Nigella Bryant said:

My council fitted two led streetlights with shads and cost nothing to me. Was done in a week of me asking. Cuts down the stray light into my garden. I have to watch where I walk now as it's really dark, lol. 

they fitted them to the 0ne above my obsy but it didnt stop the light from going strait down lol

9 hours ago, Dezerker said:

Thanks Chris, yes I've heard good things about this lens too.  Can you use the lens wide open, or does it need stopping down at all?  

I would miss the wide-field shots with that though, so I'm wondering whether the one-lens ambition is just too much, and that I might have to push to two after all...but even then it's tricky because I like the super-wide field of view (the 14-22mm range), but I also like the different perspectives you can get with the 50 - 85mm range....

Thanks again Chris!

yes you can use it wide open without any chromatic aberration remember it is F5.6 at 300mm.if you have or are getting a lens like this make sure you have a tripod mount on the lens you wont want the came supporting the weight of the lens and it has better balance with it you will also need an extra weight for the star adventurer. 

i have found with all the lenses i have that the best lens for astro work and day time photography has to be the L series lenses and the one i use the most is the ef 70-300 F4/5.6 L is usm and it will even auto focus on bright stars at 300mm hope this helps

On 19/10/2020 at 14:13, alacant said:

Hi

So did I. I find galaxies emerge from correction pretty colourless.

Nice shot and wow, less than an hour. The aperture manifests itself. We needed 3 hours to get anywhere near.

Cheers

 

a lot of noise in my image though but no surprise there -- 3 hours  ,  of clear sky in the same week not a chance in Darlington i think i picked the wrong hobby lol but i still love it. to bring the colour up a little bit i just add 20 percent L to each channel blend method is lighten then combine them to rgb then add the L to the rgb at 50 percent luminance.