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Everything posted by DoctorD

  1. Hi Baz I've used the SDC435 - the same camera as the SCB2000 and got reasonable results - could you post a selection of raw frames so we can see what you are starting with. In my experience the camera is very sensitive to settings both on camera and in your capture program, so getting these right wil lgive you the best images to start wiht before you process. Here's a cuouple of my images taken wiht the SDC435: This has been stacked and gradient removed - I cannot find the raw image now To be honest on brighter objects these video camera work well - I've not achieved this level of colour with my Lodestar, however the detail is much clearer with the Lodestar. HTH Paul
  2. Hi Anyone using a Win 10 mini PC such as one of these:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/DroidBOX-Wintel-Windows10-Android-Computer/dp/B01IDI95GU/ I'm considering one as a remote PC mounted at the scope running EQMOD & SSL and VNC with an SD card for data capture and my Lodestar - I'm tired of USB extension issues, to my Macbook and I could either run this over WiFi or CAT5 - either way less likely to be affected by USB drop outs as the temperature drops. Thanks Paul Sorry for hi-jacking the thread!
  3. A great start - it wil only get better! Paul
  4. Hi It may be possible by making a mask for your scope to create a much smaller aperture, start with a 15mm hole and see how you get on. Focus on a distant object and this should get you near enough. The standard starlight software will allow very short exposures which will also help (I do not think that Starlight Live will go as short). Once you are in the right ball park, using a Bahtinov mask on a bright star wil get the focus you need, however if this is really far out then you'll not be able to see any stars. I've used the moon or bright planets to get the focus near, even when the image is overladed, them moving to a dimmer star you should be close enough to see it and focus manually without a Bahtinov mask. HTH Paul
  5. Hi Don Fantastic images - I particularly like the detail in the triffid nebula, looks like you got the focus spot on. Is it difficult to achieve and keep focus at F2 with the hyperstar? CS Paul
  6. Hi Congratulations on the purchase - looking forward to seeing how this performs as I'm considering one for my C8 too! CS Paul
  7. Hi Kevin Interesting wide field views - it wil be good to see the results when the skies clear! What field of view are you using? Paul
  8. Hi Jim Welcome to the wonderful world of EAA - great first light. I also suggest a Bahtinov Mask for focus - easiest way to focus, I use mine at the start of my alignment routine on the first alignment star. Clear skies and keep on posting your experiences. Paul
  9. Hi Alex Thanks for sharing - and good luck with your astrophotography journey. I often capture my whole session then stack the best captures afterwards - something to do on the long cloudy dark nights that we seem to have too many of - Astrophotography as a by product of EAA CS Paul
  10. Hi Dom A fantastic tutorial - well done!! Paul
  11. Great image, Carl, lots of detail. Paul
  12. Hi Many of us use USB cameras (often CCD guide cameras) as these allow realtime stacking in software, however there are still many people who use analogue cameras such as the Watec and Samsung SBC2000 direct to monitors. I'm not aware of any cameras that support HDMI that are suitable for video astronomy. CS Paul
  13. Hi Robin Nice to see you in this neck of the woods - great work on Sharpcap, any chance of an OSx version CS Paul
  14. Hi Matt Yes, that about sums it up - we use relatively small sensors with big pixels and can get away with focal reduction that would not be suitable for visual or DSLR astrophotography (I use the F3.3 reducer on my SCT). To an extent we are not as interested in perfect stars, rather what we can "see" with our modest equipment, capturing and processing the data, other than screen grabs is not part of what we do - although many of us do do this to while away the cloudy nights:) CS Paul
  15. Hi A great first start - nice to see what the GPCAM V2 and Sharpcap can achieve. What did a single 8s frame look like for M51 and what scope/reducer are you using? CS Paul
  16. Hi Alan It looks like the 72ED comes with a dovetail mounting foot like the INED70 - this should be more than sufficient if you are only hanging a Lodestar off the back. You may need a finder - I use a red dot with my INED70 which does the job given the relatively short focal length. HTH Paul
  17. Hi I have an INED70 and am happy with its performance with my Lodestar-C when used with a 1.25" x0.5 reducer. Also makes a great wise field visual scope. HTH Paul
  18. Hi I have the SDC435 - I suggest you set the exposure to manual, try and find the EX-UP setting, possibly in the exposure menu. This will be something like x2, x4, x64 x128. You are going to need long exposures to see anything. Also look for the AGC setting - set this to High if possible. If you have a manual for the camera, can you scan it as post it here or PM me and I'll take a look and see if I can help. HTH Paul
  19. Hi Chris Yes, a C to 1.25" adapter will be useful for filter mounting - FLO do one which will still allow the camera to be inserted into the focuser - watch out for those with a shoulder which will limit how far in the camera can go: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/low-profile-125-nosepiece-c-threads.html You'll always need some form of lens or telescope to get the camera to focus - people have had good results with SLR lenses and you can also have a look at CS mount video lenses for really wide field views. Looking forward to seeing the results. CS Paul
  20. Hi Will Thanks for posting - all images and videos are welcome and this is a good example even without the aircraft, We do not see much solar video imaging here especially in Ha - I tried to have a go in white light with a Baader Solar filter yesterday but the camera was just too sensitive! Not a complaint that you'd normally hear CS Paul
  21. Hi Andy Although the FoV looks good, you might find that at F7.5 you're limited to the very bright DSO's - a x0.5 1.25" reducer will make a big difference to what you can capture at 30s. Mind you this should not stop you trying at F7.5 - there's still a lot of objects that will be within your grasp. CS Paul
  22. Hi Andy Welcome to the wonderful world of Video Astronomy & EAA - it will be interesting to see how you get on with Sharpcap and longer exposures with your QHY5ii. Please post some screen grabs when you get a chance. You might also want to consider investing in a 1.25" reducer to give you an even faster system. CS Paul
  23. Hi Martin Some great images there - M101 in particular. CS Paul
  24. Hi Andy Your finder guider might also give nice wide field views. CS Paul
  25. I remember this SN in 2014 - I actually captured it the night before it was reported - but did not notice anything unusual in the image Here's a single exposure taken on the 19th Jan 2014 at 20:28 which shows the SN quite clearly (raw FIT file debayered in Nebulosity). I guess many people must have done the same. It was only afterwards when people started talking about the SN that I looked back through my files - I almost always store my sessions just in case now! CS Paul
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