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Posts posted by jnc71106

  1. hello all

    i recently purchased a lakeside stepper motor with the intention of connecting it up to my hitecastro mount hub pro, i spoke to david at hitecastro and he told me all i needed was a cable from the motor to my mount hub and all would work ok. I have done all of the this morning but seem to have an issue with the motor.

    It vibrates like it wants to turn the gears inside but its almost like its stuck as the first cog just vibrates and the gears don't actually rotate at all so intern the shaft doesn't rotate either

    does this sound like an issue with the motor or could it be something i'm doing wrong

    i have tried using both the pc software and the hand controller that came with the mount hub pro

    i have emailed david at hitecastro for advise but thought i would ask on here as well just incase its an easy fix

  2. my very limited experiance of drizzle has so far been positive, yes there is an increase in noise but the gain in detail is worth a little extra noise for me personally

    attached is zoomed in section of the north america neb on left a normal stack and on the right a drizzle stack (both images have had the same stretch applied)

    i will say on the different images i have tested it on narrowband data seems to benefit more than LRGB but that could be to do with my data


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  3. Have to agree with Olly on the cabling. I've had to repair mine twice and they don't just break where they join the panel and inverter

    I contacted Gerd when I was thinking about ordering a larger panel as I wasn't happy about buying another one only for the same thing to happen again, so I ask him if he would supply one with a heavier duty cable he said he would but I wasn't so keen on the extra price he wanted to charge for some thing I think should be standard with his current panels, so I didn't buy the bigger panel

  4. The beauty of the gerd drawer is that he will adapt it to your needs. So I had him tap a standard tripod hole in the bottom of the drawer so that I could easily mount the whole setup onto a dovetail bar. If your camera lens has a tripod collar then you won't need the hole but a lot of the shorter FL lenses don't take a collar so mounting it becomes an issue hense why I had my drawer modified

  5. yes as Sara said TS make a drawer with an EOS bayonette on one side and Gerd Neumann also makes drawers for this pupose, his are more expensive but are better quality than the TS drawer

    i've used canon lenses with a gerd neumann drawer and it does work very well, there are some pics on my website link in my sig

  6. I have a skywatcher field flattener (f5.5 to f6) which will do for now. The TRF was high on my shopping list but I haven't looked at the WO 6 and I certainly will as it's nearly half the price. GT81 version?

    yes the gt81 version although they are all the same flattener its just a different spacing collar that comes with the different versions, There are images on my website taken with the Lomo and Atik 314

  7. Hi

    Yes that's correct mine doesn't have s CaF crystal element but it has ED glass that contains a high degree of fluorite (like all top end ED glasses). Fluorite glass is much easier to make and work with compared to Fluorite crystal.

    Big difference between Fluorite crystal and Fluorite containing glass.


    OK-4 glass as used in this lens contains a high degree of fluoride not fluorite
  8. Your going to need a flattener. I have tried 3 different ones with the scope. The first was a cheap 0.8x reducer/flattener that did a good job considering its price but still left me with a 15% curvature in the field. I then tried the Televue TRF-2008 and William Optics 6 reducer/flatteners on successive nights

    The best I could get with the TRF was 9% curvature the WO 6 on the other hand was only 3% curvature so I sold the TRF and use the WO 6

    You can also use the Borg 7887 reducer/flattener and the Takahashi flattener only for the fs-60 to good effect

  9. I changed the focuser on mine the stock one is serviceable but I didn't want any issues so bought a feathertouch.

    Just to say as far as I'm aware the lomo doesn't have a fluorite element. It was originally designed to have fluorite and a few were made that way but Lomo changed the design as they thought they could produce a better lens without the flourite. If the lomo you have bought does have fluorite then it's worth more than the £950 you have paid, not because it's better but because it's rarer

  10. I went out to Turf Hill at Christmas with Mrs Dangerous and a couple of friends, one of whom had a bigger telescope at the time. Those are some nice, dark skies, and its pretty quiet down that way too. We always used to park at Dead Man's Hill on the opposite ridge but being right next to the main Forest road you got a lot more glare from the cars. Hoping for an expedition down there in August with the Dob, but I'll need to hire another car for it!


    We normally hold 2 observing nights a month which take place on a weekend around the time of the new moon so perhaps we will see you down there

  11. i belong to an astronomy group that use a dark site in the New Forest you would be more than welcome to come along and join us we have a meeting planned for this saturday and the weather is looking promising

    we have a section on here in the social groups where you will find all our site info or you can come and join our google+ group page https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/102234145598797254158 and chat with us there

  12. Hello all

    Not really being a planetary/solar/lunar imager I've never really taken much notice of the settings needed

    Well today I decided I'd have a go at solar imaging with my 80mm and mono qhy5l-ii

    I had a look online before hand but couldn't find any help when it came exposure length , gain etc

    Anyone got any pointers ??

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