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Everything posted by Johnboy2011

  1. I recently had exactly the same issues as you describe and went for this one http://www.maplin.co.uk/30a-13.8v-switching-power-supply-509268 It is capable of more than 13.8 volts though so you need to keep it set to the 13.8v position (switch on back) John
  2. Hi Zakalwe, Thanks for the reply, I had opened each sub first in Gimp and narrowed it down. In fact I have thrown loads away as Artemis was struggling with a bad USB connection. I have only left myself with about 4 300 second subs of red which I know won't give me an amazing image but wanted to learn the stacking procedures. Could it be that 4 subs is not enough?! Thanks, John
  3. Hi Olly, Thanks for the reply, I was trying to stack separatley. I have managed to stack and save the luminence and cleared the list except for and unchecked luminence frame which I am using as reference. The wheels fall off when I try and stack the red, I'm stumped! John
  4. I'm trying to stack my first LRGB CCD image and I've hit another wall! I've successfully stacked the luminenece but the red will only stack one sub as it says not enough stars are detected. I have the slider set to minimum at 2% and DSS computes 41 stars when I ask it to check which should be enough? I have been following the settings in this tutorial: http://lightvortexastronomy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/tutorial-registering-and-calibrating.html The red data is binned 2 x 2 as are the flats and bias frames that I'm stacking with it. Any ideas??!! Thanks, John
  5. Ah, thinking about it is the problem that I shot the RGB flats 1 x 1 and not 2 x 2 to match? If that's the case I suppose I should re-shoot them at 2 x 2, also I would need a set of Bias 1 x 1 for the luminence and another set at 2 x 2 for the RBG? Am I on the right track?! John
  6. Just to clarify it is just the RGB which is binned 2 x 2, luminence, flats and bias are 1 x 1. I assume there is a way around this in DSS? Thanks, John
  7. Sorry yes i have binned, luminance is 1 x 1 but RGB is 2 x 2. What do do next?! Thanks, John
  8. I am using LRGB data for the first time and I'm a bit stuck. I have registered and stacked the luminence data with the luminence flats and bias frames. i am trying to do the same now with the red lum, red flats and bias but get the error message "The checked picutures are not compatibles". Do you know where I'm going wrong, I'm guesssing it is simple?! Thanks, John
  9. I don't have a separate mains supply yet so tried again after charging the tank for 24 hours. I ran the sequencer to collect flats and after about 15 flats the same happened again. It sounds like my next step is to try the camera routed directly to the laptop on its own and leave everything else that is working through the hub. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try that tonight and report back, thanks for the help. John
  10. Thanks Andy, interesting to see you still had a problem through the powered hub, I was hoping that would solve it! John
  11. I tried Artemis again last night but encountered the same problem as the first time I used it. After an hour or two even though I could still see it cycling through the sequence it was no longer registering the pictures is the display window. I checked in the file they were being saved to and the latest FITS files were blank (black) there too. Some images prior to this were banded across the width. On my first session I thought that this was due to using an unpowered hub which I have now swapped out for powered version. (This seemed to work as I no longer had issues with PHD or CdC dropping out). The other thing I am wondering about is power as I've read that the Atiks need very good USB links and power supplies. I am currently using a 7ah battery pack to power the 314L+ and EFW2, both plugged in to a cigarette style splitter. The battery pack is plugged in and charging as I image. I am wondering if this is the cause of the problem and I'm thinking of switching to a Hitec Mount Hub Pro to solve all the these issues. Do you think it is power or am I missing something simple? Thanks, John
  12. Ok, I think I may have this. I think it may be dodgy USB after a bit of testing today, more experiments required! John
  13. Just to add when I ask how to take flats I mean specifically in Artemis. With the Canon I used APT which was pretty much an automatic function.
  14. I had first light last night with my new 314L+ and got up and running very easily. The problem I had was after finishing a sequence I could not get anything to preview on screen when I wanted to swap targets. The camera was connected as I could see the countdown of the exposure. I am sure it mst be something simple and obvious, any ideas?! Oh, and how do you take flats?! Thanks, John
  15. Thanks John and Tim for the tip, can you recomend any decent powered hubs?
  16. Not sure if you've seen this already but some very solid advice...... http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/43171-eyepieces-the-very-least-you-need/ John
  17. Thanks Tinker1947, at the moment I am using a 5m USB2 active extension cable from Modern Astrnomy (not Astronomiser as I said above) between the 4 port hub and laptop which I think is the same as the one in your photo above. I wonder if the weak link is the cheap hub I'm using? Is there an alternative to USB? Could I plug the USB's from the equipment to a hub that would convert to CAT5 for instance? If so would that be any better anyway?! John
  18. I have been having some problems with my QHY5/PHD dropping out and not recognising the camera and CDC suddenly disconnecting from the mmount. At the moment I am connecting the NEQ6, QHY5 and Canon 1000d to an unpowered 4 port USB hub which then connects to my laptop via a 5m USB extension cable that I think I got from Asstronomiser. I have just upgraded the Canon to an Atik 314L+ and Atik EFW2 which will both need to connect via USB. I'm worried that my problems are only going to get worse adding more to the hub and I'm looking for any advice you may have for a more permanent, and more importantly, reliable set up which will be in my observatory. Is it as simple as having something like a powered hub? What is everybody else using out there? Any tips, advice or ideas would be very welcome! Thanks, John
  19. Fantastic Steve, very jealous, I've got nowhere near that yet!!
  20. Hi Rik, From what I can see on Amazon it shows CS3 as unavailable and CS4 is £360. I assume yours was a new copy? John
  21. Ahh, just got it. Downloaded to iPad and iPhone and both now working over the Internet I think. The only thing I would say is it does seem to run a bit slow though so i will need to check it when guiding etc. Ideally I suppose using wifi would be best. Sorry to hijack the thread! John
  22. Peter, How do you run team viewer from your smartphone/tablet? I have a laptop in the obs and was monitoring from a lap top inside using teamviewer and mini power link adapters through the mains. I would like to access from my iPad though, are you using teamviewer through the Internet? John
  23. Hi, I'm not all that excited about shelling out hundreds for the latest brand new CS6, Olly Penrice has said he uses CS3 so that is definaltey good enough for me! If i buy it second hand and the owner transfers the licence to me I can't see a problem? The only thing I'm not sure about is the value of it, what do you think it would be worth?! Regards, John
  24. Thanks for the replies all. I have made my decision and plumped for the 314L, apart from field of view I can't find a bad word about it. I could buy a lot of goodies for the extra £1k the 460 would cost, starting with PS. Now just to learn how to use it! Are there any good resources for getting started with CCD? John
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