libraryman

Hi all, it’s been a while since I’ve posted, travel and weather all conspired against me! so I’ve decided that I might go smaller on my imaging rig....that means losing the eq8 losing the Tak...and the Berlich tripod for something portable.. so what’s the best small mount out there? will it take say a 60mm Tak..guider and QSI camera? Ray

Hi all, i need a little help here.... im trying to process the Cave nebula complex...its wide field, Reduced FSQ106, QSI 583.. i know the data is good..and im not an expert but neither am i a novice but im really struggling to get this subject right... ive tried Pixel math in various combinations...ive tried Images plus...ive tried PS and Hue saturation and clipping masks but i just cannot get the seperation of O111 Sii and HA correct.... or lets say as i want it!! is this target just plain difficult or what!!...i have 12 x 20mins of HA and 30 odd each of Sii and O111all 20min subs...enough i would have thought... any suggestions would be appreiciated but please please dot tell me to get more data...im fed up now....lol!!! Ray

Cheers Geof Ray

Hi all, indeed it was so easy to convert, I had some 2 years ago tried a brief foray into using my qhy5Lii on the QSI but abandoned it.....why oh why did I do that? The Caméra was actually very close to focus and with the longer fl....Tak reduced to F/3.8...it has improved the accuracy of my guiding.... the out of focus Lum filter is still used for auto focus and SGpro allows me to pause guiding during focus routines! Ray

Thanks all for the replies...it is correct to say the prism is in front of the filters, however; when the filter is changed, the focuser offset means that the focuser May travel in...or out...and it’s thisaspect that changes the guide scope focus! ive fitted it for a trial tonight...I’ll set it up when thescope is infocus for the ha filter, the Astrodons I have are not perfectly par focal, but close enough...it’s the Lum filter that I use for focusing that might be the issue.....if focus is out by a good margin on the lum, it won’t matter...but yes...I agree...pause guiding during auto focus...if it actually works in sgpro!,, thanks again all Ray

Hello all, can I ask if anyone uses a Qsi wsg camera off axis? ive had my 583 for years and always used a guide scope...I’m considering putting my qhy 5Lii mono in the guide port but I’m wondering how my filters will effect focus when I change between narrow band and lum for focus routines anyone knowledge of this? Ray

In my opinion, it's about the marketing hype that has been perpetuated by the belief that the Takahashi is "the" telescope to own if you wish to obtain the best images! the simple truth is that just like any telescope; the Tak range are susceptible to manufacting issues! The importers try to peddle the lie that Tak's are perfect and no issues ever arise because of the care and attention taken during manufacture. Of course there can be issues and problems, it's a fact of life but they are less than willing to accept it and given the difficulties of assessing and proving an issue in the great British climate along with the other contributors (camera sensors) uiding issues etc, it can be difficult to resolve issues. Ray

No worries, it's for anyone who thinks flex is a contributor to the oval star issue, I just see it referred to in the preceding posts and thought it may be of use to someone! Ray

I've had this short video on my iPad for some time, I took it after stripping down a Takahashi fsq106ed focuser! Its not complete and the sound is weak, but it gives some idea of how the design is supposed to reduce flex! After reading this post I thought it may help owners to understand the innards of the focuser and the mechanics of it.. nothing to be afraid of but care has to be taken on reassembly of the linear bearing carrier back onto the tube.....slow and careful. the point is that removed from the scope, one has a much better feel for adjusting the 4 grub screws that control friction on the pads. after adjusting the pressure via the 4 grub screws; the focuser in the video felt much smoother and tighter! Ray IMG_0651.MOV

The Heart Nebula, its taken me quite a while to collect the data for this, its not been too fruitful a year! Ray

Yes, I use the losmandy plate with the Eq8......…i would suggest removing the central clamp and replacing it with a ratchet handle, its much better and you can tighten them properly, once my ratchet handle is tight the two remaining clamps are just finger tight. Ray

That's an interesting thread and I've heard of the method before, however if you focus with SGpro multiple star focus surely that would not work but a Bat mask might! Would a mask show the issue in the corners relative to the centre? Ray

Late to this thread, but I was worried about my fsq106ed (new Q) and oval stars! I decided to make a proper test using CCD inspector! The advice is to take 10 or so 20 sec sub's..taken from a fairly rich field devoid of globular's and nebula...unguided .....stack them together in CCD inspector and then look at the curvature n tilt. The logic being that guiding etc will distort the stars. This should eradicate the sensor and the focuser tilt as being the cause of oval stars which it did for me, though I did also use a DTI to measure all sorts of movement, including the Captains wheel effect, which turned out to be negligible. Aside from this, there are a set of grub screws on the side of the focuser that you can adjust to just stiffen up the focuser (on the 106 at least). Though friend of mine has loads of wobble on his FSQ 106 and has not been able to remove it by this means. Frustrating issue with Taks ! Ray

Many thanks Luise, i looked at your camera mod pic's on flicker, the side on cooler looks great and obviously word well for you. Ive already modified the sensor frame for the cold finger so that's my likely route! Ray

"The cold finger is very easy to do, I do mine with a 2mm aluminium plate and grind the sensor contact area with a Dremmel tool till it fits on the sensor gap (about 1.3mm) but you also have to modify the camera's chasis (nothing special...) I don't have the measurements here now but I'm thinking on making a detailed tutorial on how to do the full cooling mod on the 450D once I have some good free time" I made my cold finger out of 2mm copper...yes, a little heavier but no doubt a little more efficient! i have not yet completed the cold finger mod still waiting for a bit more info on the connections and trying to decide whether i should put the body into a box or go with the aluminium heat sink on the side of the camera!! decisions..decisions!! Iv'e attached a couple of photo's for the measurements, the black cover is thin self adhesive Teflon tape to prevent electrical contact with the sensor. the small screws are to fix the cold finger to the sensor frame. they fit perfectly. Ray

Hi Alistair, do share any photos, it sounds as though it's going well for the moment. Ray

Given the very limited space and delicate borders, it almost requires robotic accuracy to control the process! If when using a rotating head, I would think that one needs to set a depth or pressure and move the sensor rarther than the rotating head, more control that way but so difficult to achieve. Ray

That looks very good, are you convinced that pysicaly scraping of the matrix is worse than using the dremel and buffing? It seems such a aggressive method to my mind! Ray

Excellent Gina, thank you Ray

Hi Gina, are the 30x30mm tecs efficient enough for cooling the cold finger? I have 2 12703 & a 12706 both 40mm sguare, I looked on farnell's site for the 3 amp one but struggled to find it, have yo a link to it? Ray

Thank you, yes I have those, very good!

Cheers, is it free flowing as in the video?

Where does one obtain this type of resin? Ray