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Everything posted by libraryman

  1. I am assuming that it homes correctly, and if it does then I would also suggest observatory location or time / date is incorrect! Ray
  2. Can I suggest Seletek....I use the armadillo, a superb focused arrangement a great multi function controller and, superb after sales... you will not go wrong. Ray http://www.lunaticastronomical.com/Seletek-ARMADILLO-focuser-with-universal-plate
  3. Hi Michael, in my opinion the best way is to employ one heavy weight, as high up the bar as possible, then use one small weight low don to use as a balancing weight, this should reduce the moment and bar flex. Ray
  4. It looks like a TS 80mm finder, 328 mm focal length, I use one myself occasionally but with my reflector with it's so so rings I did get flex... you dont need a barlow with it if you are using the qhy5- lii mono....it has 3.75um pixels giving 2.3 arcsec pixle scale Ray
  5. I use the ed reduced as well, I have found that I can see oblong stars in the bottom left corner of my subs, however for some unexplained reason I find that when I stack my subs, I get round stars all over....weird .... the other point is that the fsq has adjustment grub screws to tighten the focuser up a tad if you so wish. Ray
  6. Time is needed with drift alignment, 5 mins minimum, you may have a sizeable periodic error and this might be playing out in the reading so running it longer will average out that drift. run the assistant for 15 mins to get a good result. your Dec backlash can be mitigated by weighting your scope nose heavy so that when your guiding in the east say; you are correcting north only..... to counter the dropping scope nose....if that makes sense.. but it does not need a lot of weight bias, just enough to keep the nose heavy. Ray
  7. You cannot get better than a Howie Glatter laser, but they aren't cheap! Ray
  8. I think the general answer to this is that in a perfect world one would hope to achieve as low a rms as possible, because though the general point is true...re rms lower than the imaging resolution is good, it's not true to say it would give either round stars or small stars! if the Dec rms matches RA rms ...yes round stars are probable, though a small difference will have no appreciable effect! a larger than achievable rms will give bloated stars. Ray
  9. A good cal is essential, better done east of the meridian and as close as you can and as close to Dec Zero as you can. a good cal would have say 14 steps and little or no backlash present, guide rate 0.5x or perhaps higher and then use that cal on whatever target you choose. Ray
  10. In my opinion, it's about the marketing hype that has been perpetuated by the belief that the Takahashi is "the" telescope to own if you wish to obtain the best images! the simple truth is that just like any telescope; the Tak range are susceptible to manufacting issues! The importers try to peddle the lie that Tak's are perfect and no issues ever arise because of the care and attention taken during manufacture. Of course there can be issues and problems, it's a fact of life but they are less than willing to accept it and given the difficulties of assessing and proving an issue in the great British climate along with the other contributors (camera sensors) uiding issues etc, it can be difficult to resolve issues. Ray
  11. No worries, it's for anyone who thinks flex is a contributor to the oval star issue, I just see it referred to in the preceding posts and thought it may be of use to someone! Ray
  12. I've had this short video on my iPad for some time, I took it after stripping down a Takahashi fsq106ed focuser! Its not complete and the sound is weak, but it gives some idea of how the design is supposed to reduce flex! After reading this post I thought it may help owners to understand the innards of the focuser and the mechanics of it.. nothing to be afraid of but care has to be taken on reassembly of the linear bearing carrier back onto the tube.....slow and careful. the point is that removed from the scope, one has a much better feel for adjusting the 4 grub screws that control friction on the pads. after adjusting the pressure via the 4 grub screws; the focuser in the video felt much smoother and tighter! Ray IMG_0651.MOV
  13. Good advise all above ....but....don't discount your local seeing, I was imaging last night and early evening was dreadful......it wasn't until after 2am that the atmosphere calmed.....I went from 0.9 rms to 0.5 rms without touching a thing! my guide graph was cabbage until it improved! Ray
  14. Hi Tim, I can put any images through CCD inspector if you wish.. hth Ray
  15. Yes it will be great to meet up again Michael, looking forward to it. Ray
  16. You may not feel that staying with phd2 is beneficial to you but you will be giving away all the good diagnostic tools you need if you revert to phd1... despite the difficulties of your set up, you will not achieve good guiding if you do not first of all achieve a good calibration and PhD 2 will assist you with that. send your PhD logs to the PhD forum and Bruce will assist you. If you do stay with phd2 then upgrade to the latest Dev ver: dev 11. I've used it from launch and it works..it also has all the camera compatibility you are likely to need. Ray
  17. Im on Blue 204, from the 28th...i will be taking my EQ8 and tak 106, anyone wanting to talk about the EQ8 performance after the Video i posted is welcome to chat about it and of course any other topic over a brew.. as an aside, my friends plot next to me may be available for loan they will not be attending this year (to press at least) anyone interested in using it please PM me and we can discuss... Ray
  18. Ahh o.k....big sensor lovely scope, just turned green Ray
  19. Hi Chris what the set up for that image? Sensor size etc? nice image Ray
  20. Hi all, when this darn weather eventually releases some clear skies, I want to do the veil in narrowband... at the moment any clear sky that lasts long enough; I use to get the orientation right for my fsq106 @ f3.8 with an 8300 chip! i know I can't get the entire complex in but how best to frame it? any tips? Ray
  21. Yes very nice image.. Ray
  22. I'll second Teflon greases, high damping qualities too, I'm using Finish line extreme fluoro. very expensive but looks very good Ray
  23. Yes I believe that you should, however being a tinkerer; ( a title applicable to a lot of imager) I can't help but mess, modify, generally try to improve.... would I do this with a £10.000.00 ; probably yes.....but it's easier to justify on a £3000.00 Ray
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