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markarian

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Everything posted by markarian

  1. I live in Edinburgh and generally have to give up astronomy for about 3 months in summer. Pity - as it's beautifully clear tonight. Saturn's over/behind the roof too.
  2. Is the problem that you have to use the 2" eyepiece adapter to attach the camera? If so then changing the ring at the top of the focuser may help as that removes the need. 2 options that I know of: 2' adapter with brass compression ring for Skywatcher Newtonians Skywatcher kurzbauender 2' Adapter für Crayford Auszüge I did it by having a friend shave the adapter already on the focusser - before I knew about these. Mark
  3. QHY9: Mono, 383 chip and 2" filters and electric wheel for within your budget Andy. QHY10 QHY12 QHY9 QHY8 QHY6 QHY6 Pro QHY5 QHY2 Pro Exclusively @ Modern Astronomy £1759 Anyone use the QHY9?
  4. 200mm newt (main imaging scope), C80ED (guidescope and imaging), Skymax 180 Mak-Cass, ETX-90 Mak-Cass Mark
  5. Well with the Moon so bright there's not a lot else I could do last night. So back to lunar mosaics. After playing around with the Curves presets in Photoshop, I found the Colour Negative preset gives an interesting perspective on the ejecta around Kepler. 200mm Newtonian at f10 SPC900, 18x60s videos 10fps Processed in Registax 5 and auto-photomerge and processing in Photoshop CS5. Thanks Mark Full size mosaic here.
  6. Thanks Lewis. Took me ages to get the colour to come out.
  7. Wow amazing colours! I seem to lose all the colours in my shots of these two. Amazing! Mark
  8. Thanks Peter. I think you may be right about the clipping - but that was probably to hide the noise. Could do with quite a few more subs to reduce that. I'm also always fighting colour balance because of the CLS filter - trying to hide the cyan halos around the brighter stars. I might give it another go. Mark
  9. Well done. I did M97 last night too for the first time. If I'd been clever though I could have got M108 in as you did. Next time... Mark
  10. I see Shibby did M97 last night too This is the first time I've seen it - never managed to catch it visually before. Always found it very hard to find. EQMOD and CdC found it for me:D 200P, 350D, Astronomik CLS, MPCC 10x180s, 5x240s, ISO 800, darks Guided w/Guidemaster, captured with APT Processed in Nebulosity and Photoshop CS5 Mark
  11. Thanks for your replies. I checked collimation and it's pretty good - could be better as always. I have done some work on the focuser to try and improve the alignment but I suspect there's more to be done there. I have the single speed crayford which I had to get "shaved" to fit the coma corrector and reach focus. I know it's not perfect but wasn't expecting it to have that much effect on the image. I maybe need to look into a bit more. Thanks
  12. I've started using a Baader MPCC to help remove the coma on my 200P and it has made a huge difference. However, I've noticed recently that it mostly fixes the coma on one side of the frame but less so on the other. Below is a full-frame (Canon 350D) of M36 and then zoomed images of the top-left and top-right corners of the image. Top-left is good, top-right is much worse. Any ideas why this might be? Thanks Mark
  13. I live in Edinburgh and we don't have a hope of seeing auroras in summer. Much too light at night. Oct - Mar are the best months.
  14. Thanks Neil. I'll give that a go next time. Mark
  15. Just one thing to remember: with the auto focusser installed you can't focus manually very easily - at least not without damaging the gearing. You have to use the auto focusser all the time - which can be a bit slow if you're going from one extreme of focus to the other. Still easily worth it IMHO. Mark
  16. How did you process out the colour shift caused by the CLS? That's always a problem for me. Mark
  17. I think it is definitely worth it. I only have a single speed crayford but with this I don't need to upgrade to a dual speed one now. I always found it hard at high power as touching the focusser made the telescope vibrate and the image shift. This gets rid of all that and fine focus is so much easier. I love it! Mark
  18. I use one successfully with my 200P and stock crayford. Haven't explored the wiring though - but imagine it will be fairly simple. Mark
  19. That's fantastic! Did you use your CLS filter with that? Mark
  20. Can't compare with the MN190, but I have a 200P and Baader MPCC. The difference the corrector made was staggering. So I can recommend that setup - but can't compare - sorry. Mark
  21. I'm with Schrödinger on this one. Put the cat in a box with a radioactive source, a very big padlock and then forget about it. That way my garden stays clean and I don't sneeze.
  22. In DSLR Focus you need to click on the Frame button to display the image if it's a JPEG - won't do it automatically - and won't replace the image with the latest one if you leave it open. Can't display it if it's RAW though. It's annoying and as it's not supported there's no chance of getting it changed. I've switched from DSLR Focus to APT - sad that it won't work for you. Mark
  23. Don't think you can mix the two - I think you have to stick with one or the other to keep your settings. I use EQMOD/CdC and have not touched the hand controller for 2 years now. Can't think why I would want to now. Mark
  24. It's normal - and annoying. The focusser is fine - just badly designed. They are too small without the 2" visual adapter that normally comes with the focusser - at least they come with the later crayford versions. Do you not have a similar one to the 1 1/4" adapter for 2" eyepieces? SW have finally sorted it with the latest 2" dual-speed crayfords I believe?
  25. Added prices now as requested. Remember, the Lumicon is very old and I'm sure the new ones are better now.
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