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Sp@ce_d

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Everything posted by Sp@ce_d

  1. Yes.. I was expecting that too after seeing that thread. All I seem to be able to find is an option to have both displays as a mirror or select monitor 1 (netbook) or monitor 2 (external). I don't see an option to extend. On any of the options it's a max of 1024x600. I'm thinking it's a limitation of the integrated intel graphics. Its using the max 256mb of shared mem running under Win 7 starter. I've tried a couple of flat panels.. also installed drivers. I see the APT thread has gone now. was having a search to see how that runs on netbooks. Was hoping to keep the footprint down. Just use the netbook for capture with EQMod, CdC & PHD
  2. I've been caught out with the EOS util install and netbook resolution too. Seems my HP mini 110 doesn't allow an external monitor to go higher than 1024x600 either. So next stop APT then...
  3. The prolific drivers I use with for my HitecAstro EQDIR are here: Welcome to Prolific Also, you can run the find COM port option in the EQMOD setup. Sometimes the COM port changes if you use a different USB port
  4. Iridium flare perhaps? There's another recent thread with links to check them out here: http://stargazerslounge.com/beginners-help-advice/97010-how-do-you-find-information-satellites-passing-through.html
  5. Ahh thought that might be the case.. no worries.. I can wait too Loo roll in fridge then Martin..
  6. Hi Miller of the Highlands.. welcome in.. from a Lowlander..
  7. Welcome aboard Weebz.. Plenty of good info in here
  8. I'm thinking the caption is the giveaway.. I see no trees !! M27 - UNGUIDED Photo taken with 50mm lens piggybacked on the SK P15075EQ3-2. Exposed for 10 minutes at f 2.8, Fuji provia 400F slide film. Trees are added to make a nice scene.
  9. I think this was the thread.. http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-tips-tricks-techniques/134156-phd-calibration.html and these the links.. CN FORUMS ARCHIVE Telescope Reviews: PHD Guiding problem Telescope Reviews: PHD guiding failure with SSAG Orion guider package
  10. Yup, I got one of these from FLO recently.. thats the right USB cable
  11. Hi Jim I think you've made a good choice. I've recently started travelling down the slippery slope of AP. After endless reading and asking questions I came to the conclusion that this is a well tried and tested kit list. I have the NEQ6 and ST80 as guide scope so far and very happy with them. I use a DSLR piggy backed on top of the ST80 with various lenses. I'm about to order the 80ED after going through the whole "what should I get" thread routine. One thing to be aware of that did catch me out was the new mount on the ST80. Its the plastic foot for a tripod mount. So as I was attaching it to the NEQ6 I had to get a vixen dovetail and make an aluminium plate that the rings attached to and then bolt that to the dovetail as the holes didn't align. What I think I'll do when I get the 80ED is get the ADM mini dovetail 125mm guide-rings for the ST80. Fit the dovetail upside down on top of the 80ED and attach to that. rings are here ADM Guidescope Rings and systems - ADM Mini Dovetail Guidescope Rings Hope that helps
  12. Fantastic.. truly inspiring shot. I love galaxies
  13. Aha.. that looks like it.. right I'm off to try it out.. Thanks for the help..
  14. At last a bit of clear sky last night so tried using my new QHY5 with (for the first time outside!) EQMOD, PHD & CDC. so on a bit of a learning curve for all of these at the moment. Now, I am a bit unclear as to whether I should be using the ST4 or pulse guiding with the QHY5? I tried this with the ST4 port connected but was I really using it or was it pulse guiding? I ask this because I seem to recall reading somewhere that if you choose the ascom v5 camera and then select QHY5 in PHD it uses pulse guiding method. However I don't see an alternative "QHY" to select instead of Ascom v5 camera? Actually, I dont mind which way I do it as long as it works, just making sure by having both connected I'm not complicating things whilst I try and get those wavy red and blue lines.. in the PHD graph a bit closer to the centre line. It seems to work but wind & probably balance wasn't helping so I want to make sure I've got this right. I'm using EQdir with NEQ6, so no handset connected.
  15. If the Oculars plugin is not available go to configuration - plugins make sure the Oculars plugin has the tick against "Load at Startup"
  16. Alt+O should get you the Oculars plugin config tab up. Then select the Sensors tab and enter your sensor details in there.
  17. I use the Manfrotto 234RC ... nice and solid Jessops - Manfrotto Monopod Quick Release Tilt Head (234RC)
  18. Funny enough the MN190 was on my list of scopes to consider for progressing on to a bit later in my original plan. But you're right, I should remember I need to learn to walk first. I guess I'm trying to flesh out the results I'm actually out to achieve and understand the reasons why the experts do or don't do things in a particular way. I see what you're all saying and I should keep it simple for myself to get up to speed first. After all, getting decent subs is one thing but I'm still getting to grips with processing them after anyway! And another thing. Having been comparing scopes and sensors on the FOV calculator I realise how CCD and pixel size comes into play. When I move from DSLR to CCD it's likely that my sensor size will drop too which seems to mean I may have to think about mosaics for the larger objects too… and then I start to read about narrowband… ahhh make it stop !! So, really then it seems I'm back where I started and I should stay with the lower focal length and keep it simple and sensible for now then, right? I mean it's been nearly two weeks since I had any clear night sky here anyway Without being able to actually try anything out before buying it's quite a difficult decision choosing a scope. Whats a good choice similar to the M190 on a lower focal length (and budget of course)? The workhorse ED80, Equinox, what about the WO 72 or 90 or the TS 65mm Quad APO Astrograph Refractor/TSAPO65Q or TSED8053. What about the IKHARUS 102mm F7 ED APO? So guys.. I guess what I'm asking is that age old question: if you were in my position knowing what you do now.. (ok I know.. but I've asked now.. )
  19. Thanks Olly and Martin. I appreciate the help. Your examples were what I needed to see to get an idea of how things scale over that focal range. I've also been off checking that with Stellarium and the FOV calculator here http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fov.htm Of course, you realise you've added to my dilemma as you've both convinced me I need 2 scopes now! As spring viewing time is supposedly on the way I'm thinking of perhaps going for a longer focal length now, (perhaps up towards the metre). Although that seems to imply a slower f ratio (or sillier money) than a 500mm. How slow is considered practically acceptable? Should I make sure whatever I go for has a matching focal reducer & flattener available. Or is mixing other manufacturers OK.. or even better? Is it always the case to use a focal reducer to gain the fastest possible speed out of a scope? The trouble with all this is I thought I'd got it sussed out. But the more research and discussing I do the more I worry about making the wrong choice... Henry Ford had the right idea.. "any colour you want, as long as its black" !! Graham
  20. Ah yes of course.. well I was thinking of going down the one shot colour route first, before adding the complication of UK weather and filters. I guess I'm trying to get this right first time as I'll probably have to stick with my choice for some time by all accounts of astro market forces.. So, in terms of choosing a scope. OK, I understand (I hope) that the faster (lower f ratio, I take it depth of field is out the window here) the better. i.e. more light in less time needed and flatness of field in relation to the area covering the sensor at least, is good and what we want. Presuming that I can cover objects with my lenses that go up to 300mm focal length. Therefore to obtain more than a dot of the smaller DSO's I'm going to need a longer focal length scope. What ideally would that be in the next step up from 300mm? Is my thinking correct that I'll get a larger & better image of smaller DSO's with a longer focal length regardless, than say the 500mm of the Equinox 80 or 480mm of an APM/TS triplet? Or is it better to have a higher quality smaller focal length scope. Would I be able to push the resulting images further in processing to gain more detail/size than from a longer focal length of lesser quality. i.e. does size matter? Of course I understand the camera/sensor and pixel size plays an important role and for now lets assume I will use my DSLR. ... unless that ticket comes up on Friday..
  21. With all the price increases going on and maybe the events in Japan slowing availability of optics etc. I'm thinking of bringing my plans forward and looking for an imaging scope to add to my setup now. 80mm is normally recommended as a first scope for imaging, but I was wondering if this is still the case when I already have lenses that cover 10mm - 300mm with my DSLR. I can piggy back the DSLR on the ST80/NEQ6 and guide. I'm quite interested in imaging galaxy and planetary nebula as well as the wider field stuff so would something with a slightly longer focal length complement what I already have or would sticking to 80mm still be the advice? I do aim to progress to CCD but again, I understand I could get an adapter to use my DSLR lenses on that too? I'd be grateful for some help in deciding how to go about this. If the advice is still to go for an 80mm then I had originally though of a budget of £500 for a ~80mm scope. Of which the Equinox was top of my list, which included: Skywatcher Equinox 80 APO William Optics Megrez 72 FD DDG APO Skywatcher Evostar 80ED However with the price increase the Equinox is now nearly £600 so puts it up against : Skywatcher Equinox 80 APO Meade 5000 80mm ED APO Triplet Orion 80 ED CF (Carbon Fibre) Apochromatic Refractor (who actually makes this, is it a real triplet for £615)? Now If I were to go for something over 80mm then I should restrict my budget to £800 as I need to think about the additional cost of Focal Reducers/Flatteners. That seems to cover things like: IKHARUS 102mm F7 ED APO Refractor William Optics Megrez 90 APO Skywatcher Evostar 100ED Of course I could try second hand but having kept an eye out there doesn't seem to be much in this range and if there is.. it moves quick.. So, A) do I go for an 80mm do I go for greater than 80mm C) Whats the recommendations within the budgets, this can include scopes I haven't listed D) none of the above spend it on Fridays 90 million rollover :(
  22. Bit of a shocker that one.. it was on my shortlist! Whats that.. 26% No wonder Steve needed a strong coffee.. Is this the way things are likely to go in general? My timing has never been good... should I panic buy now... or sell sell sell
  23. sry.. If that sounded a bit off.. I just re-read your original post, you say both cams are behaving the same.. I have a couple of the silver focus rings from mine laying in front of me from modding mine.. made me wonder?
  24. Hi Lurker Which silver knob? You don't still have the one on the front of the webcam do you? Has the webcam had the lense removed?
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