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Sp@ce_d

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Posts posted by Sp@ce_d


  1. 2 hours ago, don4l said:

    You're not wrong.

    I have started, and I like what I've managed so far,   but for the life of me, I cannot remember how I processed it.

    If we get enough clear nights with no Moon, then I'll collect more OIII, but I don't think that I'll ever get beyond 4 panels.

    cresColour.jpg

     

    😮 Oh my!!  That is really starting to look very very nice indeed. I love this.. I do like a good Ha monochrome but this is starting to leap out! I didn't expect you to come back straight away with such a teaser.. no way you can stop now!.. Is that with all Chroma 3nm filters?


  2. Yeah it is possible.. I guess it depends if you are wanting to automate the imaging process or just checking each time you change filter.. temp fluctuations etc.. bahtinov mask would do you for manual perhaps?

    There's some interesting stuff going on here...  Just for Canon lenses so far. https://astromechanics.org/

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astromechanics-ascom-aps-c-m42-to-canon-lens-controller-mark-ii.html

    and the Samyang 135 F2 thread is a great read

     

    If you've already got some nice lenses why not try them first anyway. You could rig up a motor & belt drive fairly cheaply.. less than investing in a scope.. to see if it suits you.

    https://www.motionco.co.uk/pulleys-belts-c-25.html

    There's a rather expensive pre cooked one for the Redcat here..(bearing in mind you also need the controller) but you get the idea.. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/focuser-controllers/starlight-instruments-redcat-electronic-focusing-system-si-rcef.html 

     


  3. After trying a few hubs in the obsy I went over to Startech a few years ago. I've got a few.. 4, 7 & 10 port & they've been great.. very stable. I also use various Lindy active extensions. If you're not aware already, as its not really documented, if you are providing external power to the hub (and you really should) there's a jumper in the hub that allows you to select whether the power for the USB ports is passed through from the computer USB port or not. By default it is, however I disable this as I power the hubs with the obsy regulated & conditioned 13.8v supply. I've found this much more stable than relying on the dubious quality of the various computer ports I've used over the years. My obsy setup also allows me to remotely cycle individual hub's power. Having the USB pass through disabled this has the benefit of simulating unplugging & re plugging a cable should a connected device lockup or disappear, my EFW2 has had a habit of doing this & it's saved me a few journeys out to the obsy just to unplug and reset a cable!


  4. Hmm.. looks like it's heading towards 10 years since I finally gave up the lurking & had to register as no one was asking the questions I wanted answers to!!.. 🤭 I don't usually like having to stick my head above the parapet but SGL is a safe harbour. I remember, I was very proud when Helen pinned one of my early threads in the DIY Obsys section :).  Congrats Helen, may there be many many more anniversaries to come.

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    • Thanks 1

  5. Mick you didn't say which one, but just to add. My 2 Esprit 80's have been fine. Never worried about them with the QSI on the back & I have stuck motors on both. I've had to swap focuser's on a few of my other scopes.. with the RC8 it decided for me, split & fell to bits.. dumped it's self on the obsy floor. Luckily I'd already removed the imaging train in time. But yeah, never worried about the quality of the Esprits. Pleasant surprise as I had expected to change it when I got my first one. The 150 is on my wish list if I get around to recommissioning the obsy this year.


  6. Thinking about it. If you also have flats, darks etc. You’ll have to manually load them as such by selecting the relevant file type as PI would normally try & read this in the fits header if it were a .fit file. The .xisf is default file type output for PI now. But can be changed to what you want. Ie I still save mine as .fits.


  7. I’ve not used PI with dslr raws but that naming convention means it’s a light frame binned at 1 ie no binning. Kind of what I would expect as my ccd files are the same. If they were darks it would say dark, bias flat etc. Have you tried running the batch process to see if it works?


  8. 4 hours ago, Ruud said:

    Too long?

    The purpose of the video is not to show the fireball, but to explain it. It tells you why and how this rocket is different than many others. That takes 6 minutes.

     

    Well I found it informative.. didn't realise it was the last one launched from the west coast either..  thanks..


  9. Yours does sounds as if its tighter than usual then. I havn't been at the point of extreme force to adjust my NEQ6 or HEQ5 & I wouldn't force them either.

    The other reason we have "put up" with them is the fact there wasn't anything else available at this price point that does the job as well as they do.. certainly not for AP. Next one up is the EQ8 which is fine in this regard.. after that its 5k Plus really.

    • Like 1

  10. It is sad to see yet another thread on this age old bendy bolts issue. I refrained from changing out to harder bolts on any of my mounts as I’ve seen too many stripped thread & even cracked mount “Threads” on here. As said before if you want to adjust fully loaded then loosen off both bolts and grab the shaft & scope & ease to general position. Then adjusting both bolts at same time tweak gently. It is a good idea to loosen the bolts right off, grab the unloaded head & move up & down to make sure it feels smooth & you have no binding elsewhere first of all. At my altitude the lower bolt is up against the polar scope so a right finger jamming pain. Also the top bolt can jam against the counter weight lock screws if they are in the centre & not checked for clearance as the arm swings past!

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