StevieDvd

15 hours ago, Vroobel said:

One copy for me, as the winner, please.

It looks like there are 4 USB ports. The Raspberry Pi rather cannot fit there, also it has USB ports in a fixed place. I would say that there is an ASIair mini and a power hub. 

ZWO have parted with using Raspberry Pi boards and have their own using Rockchip processors so can be more flexible on their internals.  Likely to be similar to what's in the ZWO Seestar but with more external ports.

If I decide to switch over from my ASIAir Plus for Astro imaging (to use non ZWO gear) I'd still keep an ASIAir for PA (I have an ASIAir Pro in my unused gear collection).🙃 I was one of the first UK users of the Polemaster and dabbled with the Python PhotoPolarAlignment (PPA) program first introduced by an SGL member @themos which was later adopted & adapted into SharpCap. Back then on another now defunct forum I did mention to Robin (SharpCap author) that t would be nice to have a PA tool like PPA in SharpCap but with the capture repeating automatically.  I believe he was already considering it but I'd then got the Polemaster before his PA routine was made available.

On 13/04/2024 at 20:33, wookie1965 said:

Not happy with royal mail today wife just been to put rubbish in the recycling turned around two parcels under the rose bush no card no note in the letter box. 

Luckily both well packaged. 

 

 

 

And today the FLO delivery for me seems to be the rain resistant packing  - just in case. A new SW wedge to try out EQ mode on my Seestar & Dwarf smart scopes (weather permitting).

I'd think a simpler solution would to make the base part that rotates the unit bigger (so that it is more robust) and  an optional wedge for those who want to use it in EQ mode.

Perhaps the wedge could be used for other mounts and include a Polar Alignment feature (camera etc)

You are likely to say:

"Alexa, polar align and focus my scope on M42 and image for 4 hours. And don't forget to use the cloud removal filter"

And of course add "Please"  as bio AI appreciates good manners.

24 minutes ago, Naughty Neal said:

A few bits arrived for me , I had a little splurge in China land.

Out of focus SV215 zoom and a freebie .

 

I have the same freebie though they sent me an XXXL!!!  I think they are telling me to lose weight.

39 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

 

Thanks.  Sorry, but what I still can't work out is how to attach this mount to a home made pier. If my pier top consisted of a flat steel plate with access from beneath, could the mount be placed securely on that and bolted down onto it by bolts from beneath? Is the bottom of the mount drilled and threaded to receive bolts from below? Drilling the mount top plate is no problem since I do have a large pillar drill.

Olly

The mount on its own has a flat base with many pre-drilled/tapped holes. The central being a 3/8" standard, but several others for the accessory plates (4 x M6 and 4 x M8).   Using the 3/8" alone would not stop  the possibility of the mount turning on the base, but would be simpler to make the steel plate. Dimensions are on the FLO page linked to earlier be @Elp

I have the AM5 and both of the extensions (PE160 & PE200). 

The AM5 on it' s own can use a 3/8" tripod/base but needs access from below.  The extenders  have the same top fitting as the tripod so you can 'drop' the AM5 into it and tighten the upper clamps.  You could bolt one of these onto the pier (permanently if needed).   I have one on my pier using the eq5 adapter (supplied) that can be bolted to the extension - but that needs access from below as well.

Not having done a swap of a focuser on a dob myself but brain-storming a solution I had the idea of using 2 templates to get a good alignment.

• Create a template of the current SW focuser (A) note the position of the screw holes & centre cut-out
• Make a similar one (B) for the Baader - make allowance for the tube curvature
• Centre the SW template on top of the Baader one so you can use the 4 holes of the SW template to align the Baader template.  If the cut-out on each is the same size then a simple alignment, if not then you would need to find the centre of each cut-out to align with.

Though I expect someone may come up with a better/simpler solution if they've actually done the deed themselves🙃

Is this the video?

Looks like the 4 screws are just to hold the plate in position for you to line up the plate with the tube hole.  Are you using the same 4 holes as the video (i.e. the elongated ones)?

Otherwise you need to do the same alignment but with another method to hold the plate in place whilst you drill/mark the new holes.  Or make up a cardboard template and tape that to the tube and drill through that.

Hopefully, someone here may have swapped the focuser for a Baader one on the same scope.

11 minutes ago, Elp said:

I think you'll find if you actually remove said SD card and insert it into a dedicated SD card reader port on a computer it's actually the fastest transfer method. You get similar read speeds via a usb card reader but they're usually not as fast as having internal readers. I can copy a full 15 odd Gb in around 2 odd minutes or less.

I'm a bit outdated on the sd-card transfer speeds then - like in other things too 😶

I normally copy my image files using wi-fi/ethernet as it's less hassle, though I did try the USB-c connected to my laptop which seemed faster than using the sd-card via a USB3 adapter.

The HEQ5 base is/was slightly smaller then the standard EQ5 base so in the past I could mount my HEQ5 on a standard EQ5 tripod but some EQ5 mounts could be a tight fit in a HEQ5 base. 

I have a an old HEQ5 pier adapter (no longer have the HEQ5) and tried to use the EQ5 adapter supplied with my ZWO AM5 extender, it would not fit in so I had to sand the adapter by a few millimetres to get it to fit.

Check with US suppliers to confirm that you can buy an EQ5 tripod and they should confirm it will be fine for your HEQ5. It makes no sense to try sourcing from abroad when a local seller should stock an EQ5 tripod.

2 hours ago, The Admiral said:

Whether the 32GB version has the fast frame rate as the 256GB one is a bit if a moot point. This was asked several times in the comments, and the reply was that it has. However, I suppose the only way to tell for sure is to open one up, but it would be logical for ZWO to adopt the same hardware for both versions. BUT, ZWO's advertising is somewhat ambiguous: "The larger eMMC storage brings faster data transmission speed". This implies that the 256 chip is faster than the 32.

Ian

The early ASIAir Plus used the PI Composite module (processor) on a ZWO board.  These were soon replaced with a new ZWO board and a Rockchip processor.  ZWO cameras use Rockchip processors so they had a supplier when PI units were harder to source in volume.

When transferring files from the ASIAir Plus the sd-card is the slowest.  If not using wifi or ethernet you can also just connect the unit via the USB-c port and it should then act like a USB device to your PC, it's not well documented by ZWO but is mentioned here.

The ZWO sd-card is 32gb as that's the size of (all) the Linux partitions defined.  Unlike the PC disk copiers the sd-card write programs don't have an option to use the free space. I believe it is possible to resize the partition(s) later on a Linux system but not a trivial exercise for someone not familiar with Linux.

17 hours ago, LaurenceT said:

The use of an equatorial wedge was denied by the Seestar users on Facebook that were claiming zero field rotation in integration times of 2 hours plus.

That's possible under certain scenarios:

• The images are heavily cropped, rotation artefacts are in the four corners.
• The post processing is heavy and the corners artefacts processed out
• The 2 hours are comprised of several nights imaging with short exposures 
• The final image is sharing data from several peoples sessions
• It's Facebook so must be true🙄

44 minutes ago, LaurenceT said:

Thanks, so would a single unstacked exposure of 2.5 hours show field rotation?

The max exposure is 30 secs at present.  A 2.5 hour exposure, if possible,  would be so field rotated it would probably be all field rotation mess. Both the Seestar and Dwarf Labs devices have users setting up them up in an 'eq mode' , by somewhat controversial means to overcome field rotation.

13 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

i'd love to see a synscan app manual somewhere  

Look here then 😀 though it's not illustrated.

synscan_app_manual_en_20230525.pdf

Okay it appears you have grasped the PA process both using the polarscope and the app.  And as you can get the mel/maz values can see how far off you are from a good PA, at best these would both be zero. But probably 1 arc-minute would be the best you could expect to get (according to SW) 

I had the SW GTi briefly before I upgraded to a ZWO AM5 and never used the polarscope. I set the Alt based on my location and pointed North using my iPhone then PA'd via the app or a connected ASIAir, that was for visual I did not image with the SW Gti.

So based on your equipment and software:

As I still have the Syncan app and can set it to simulate mode I can see the stages you would go through as an iterative process (align, PA, align & check)

• Check your date/time & location are correct in the app
• Start PA process until mel/maz value is as low as possible
• Do a 2 or 3 star alignment
  • End with an Up/Right click
  •  Check the mel/maz error
• Do the PA using the Alt/Az bolts as needed.
• Redo a 2 or 3 star alignment
  • End with an Up/Right click
  •  Check the mel/maz error
• Repeat  as required

When you adjust the Azimuth bolts, loosen one side as you tighten the other, but make sure they are not left loose. The end on Up/Right move for aligning is per SW notes to cater for backlash.

Home position - if your PA is good a poor home position may make the first go-to look bad.  I would loosen the clutches and centre the object - not use the cursor keys or alt/az bolts.  I'd then do a go to 'home' and retry the first go to - the mount will set a home position, better than you can, and later each subsequent go to should be accurate as well.

NB You can add a custom target in the app for 'home' to be able to do a go to home

Hope this helps rather than confuse. I think I have covered the essentials - someone may spot anything I've missed.

Steve

Just now, bosun21 said:

So you mean there's a pin protruding out the bottom of the mount head that fits into the hole on the top of the tripod? 

No it's all enclosed. The pin is in the upper part and the adjustments bolts are in the part which connects to the tripod. The inverse of the wedges used to put an AZGTi  in eq mode (they can't have azimuth pins in the tripod either). Suffice to say the missing azimuth pin was a red herring which has taken the thread off course.

13 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

one final update for now ty anyone who was reading

did another polar alignment via scope, did another two star alignmnent. did a focus test on jupiter looks ok and did a 60 sec sub and the star trailing was within the error of how bad my star shapes are.

i have stopped down to 4 or 5.6 (can't check with lens heater on and don't want to disturb it) btw

so i went back to orion and did a 60 sec test sub there and it seems ok too. 

so to sum up i have no idea what i did so badly and i have no idea what i did to fix it. Im full of confidence and optimism

my mel maz is still as posted above btw.

gonna let it run at 60 sec subs until orion drops too low and will stack and process see what people think.

Your mel/maz settings still be the same is worrying.  It is the adjustment that the mount expects to correct your PA when doing a goto.  

The SW PA/Align process for users without a polarscope is documented in the handset manual and involves doing a series of PA and Aligns to reduce the Mel/Maz 

Even the slightest adjustment  of the Alt/Az would change those numbers. But if the app is the same as the handset method the values may only change after last 2 or 3 star alignment

Just now, bosun21 said:

If your tripod doesn't have a pin fitted then those screws wont move anything.

He has a SW GTi mount that has a 3/8 base that has a built in adjustment system. The green bolts push against a built in inverted stop and turns the top of the mount. 

21 minutes ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

just to clarify.

once i've centered polaris in the polar scope cross hair and then used alt bolt to position in at the top in the center circular line - do i rotated RA to move polaris into the correct position, or do i use the alt/az bolts?

Keep using the alt/az bolts.

Polaris will be in a certain position at a given time.  So if it's due to be at the eleven o'clock position that's where you should see it in the circle when you are aligned.

If you imagine the circle is like a circular train track, then at any given time Polaris (the train) should be in a set part of the track.  If you are correctly PA'd then turning your mount in RA 360 degrees, Polaris will stay in place and the track spins around it. If it goes off track then your mount pivot point is not correct in relation to Polaris.

Remember that you are trying to adjust the central pivot point of your mount to that of the NCP. We can do that by noting the position of Polaris at a set time/date and from that can work out where your mount pivot point should be.

Given your statement about age and back issues then I'd suggest doing a basic PA in the polar scope (align in the middle of the cross). Then use software PA (like Synscan, Sharpcap, NINA etc) to get it better. 

And don't worry about the questions some of us are retired and don't mind the challenge of getting someone new on the right track.  Personally I think Polar scopes are evil and designed to sell back ache remedies. I have not used one for years.😀

7 minutes ago, 900SL said:

Thus is getting hilarious. 

It took me a while for the penny to drop that there was an option that had a polar scope and a flat 3/8" tripod like the SW Star Adventurer GTi 😀

8 minutes ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

I'm really sorry I did work out what he meant. I didn't get the optional mount as it looked no sturdier than my random brand tripod so I dont have an az pin.

Then how are you adjusting the mount in azimuth?????

I see from your other posts you have mentioned a SW Gti is it this one

That has the azimuth pin in the base of the mount so you can't see it and it allows the use of a 3/8 tripod.

Okay just to clarify a few of your issues:

The spike Malc refers to is the azimuth pin as shown here  and which the azimuth bolts push against to adjust your PA.

I read the manual of Syncan App and it is correct in allowing a further PA after a star alignment. This is only possible as it records the mel/maz settings which is stored for 'adjustments' needed to correct your goto.