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russ.will

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Blog Entries posted by russ.will

  1. russ.will
    I threw an opinion into the mix in the beginners forum the other night and decided I should expand on my reasoning here.
    Even somewhere as benign as SGL, you still have to remember this IS the internet. That means opinions repeated enough by people with large post counts, gain credence as fact among the rest of the forum. It does not hurt to challenge that, if only to get people thinking, as long as you do it in a reasoned way. So.....
    What got me thinking was the humble 8" Dob. For instance, I've noticed that the most recommended scope for a beginner is an 8" Dob; 10" if there's a sniff of the OP having a bit more to spend. The thing is, a rake of this recommendation appears straight off the bat, without further quizzing of the OP, but for most newbies, I think it is wrong.
    True, a great many people started there and went on to bigger (some might say better) things, but a lot do not. You don't have to be Poirot to notice it's also the most sold scope on Ebay, along with the EPs it came with; reasons (excuses) of needing the space, etc, being given. The ratio of 8" Dobs for sale on Ebay is greater than on here. A lot of people don't stick with it long enough to achieve the fifty posts required for access to the classifieds. Why? Because if you don't know your way around the skies, you'll find it really hard to find stuff and you'll break your back grovelling around doing so. It is also a scope that will likely be way off the mark in collimation out of the box and be harsh on the rather basic EPs* it came with.
    When I started, my Explorer 200p only showed half the primary when looking down the focuser. They really can arrive that far out of whack and dealers these days are driven by price, so they are extremely unlikely to have seen more than the outside of the box you've been shipped. Few would actually check the scope and if they did, most people would whine they're too expensive. Service costs.
    So, if you do find something on your first light with your new scope and then pop in the 10mm MA it came with, it will look rubbish. De-collimate your scope with a half decent EP and have a crack at Jupiter. It's not impressive and that's as easy as it gets. For a n00b, it's confusion time.
    In other words, it's not the most intuitive scope, it has a built in steep learning curve just to get it to work and requires immediate upgrades just to get near what this, admittedly capable scope in the right hands, can deliver. The 8" Dob is best suited to someone who has at least used binos, or a friend's scope. That way, they'll have advice on hand.
    So my contention is that, in this push button, battery driven age, the ideal beginners scope is a 127mm AZ GOTO Mak.
    I can hear the hackles rising, so let me justify this.
    I'm not interested in the cries of 'It needs to be level, it needs to be pointed North!'. That involves a bubble level and the one star everybody knows. People who get the date format wrong should RTFM! Anyway, if this is tricky, how are they going to get along with a Planisphere? No, the learning curve is minimal and when the crisp little optics and it's long FL, which is easy on cheap EPs hits a target, it's going to be a sharp view. If it doesn't hit the target first time, the erstwhile n00b will slew around a bit and unless they're complete attention deficient, will hit the target.
    This is my point. Getting the first few targets a newcomer sees to be clear, is the hook that keeps them engaged. Jupiter will look good in a Mak. Saturn at any size when sharp is unforgettable. The moon will look amazing and M42, M57, globs, etc, will be good enough to show people there's a universe out there they hadn't even considered. I know an 8" Dob will do these subjects better, but it's not exactly Wow! territory. There are plenty of atmospheric UK nights and particularly from suburban locations, where a 5" Mak might actually do these subjects better.
    Now I know that hardly anybody reading this will still have their first scope, but if one of these had been, it would still be a great little grab 'n' go, plus a handy mount for an 80mm ED/Apo for the same purpose, plus white light solar, etc, etc. Nobody who starts in the hobby with an 8" Dob stays there. In the long run, rationally, the humble 5" Mak GOTO is a very handy little weapon on a number of levels and one that has uses further down the line.
    Russell
    * One of the scopes I bought at a time when my collimation learning curve had long since flattened off, came with the usual 10 & 25mm MAs. For a laugh, I thought I'd give them a go. You know what? In a 300mm F4.9 Dob, they weren't that bad. The deficiency I recalled, was in fact, mostly mine in terms of collimation - It was far easier to blame the EPs and post yet another 'What EP for a n00b' thread....
  2. russ.will
    I've only been doing this hobby seriously for about four and a half years. For some reason, I decided to list everything I've owned in terms of the major items - If you included freebie EPs, cables, adapters, etc, I'm sure the result would be even more scary.
    Skywatcher Explorer 200p
    Williams Optics Zenithstar 80ED II
    Skywatcher Startravel 80mm
    Skywatcher FlexTube 300p Auto
    Bresser AR-127L
    Orion Optics UK VX-8L
    Explore Scientific 305mm Ultra Light Dobsonian
    Explore Scientific ED80 Triplet*
    Meade LX200R 8"*
    Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro Synscan
    Bresser EXOS 2 GOTO
    iOptron Minitower v2.0*
    Rigel Quickfinder
    Telrad
    Altair Astro 10x60 RA finder
    Williams Optics 8x50 RA Finder*
    Skywatcher Panaview 32mm 2"
    Revelation Superview 26mm 2"
    BST Explorer (now Starguider) 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, 18 & 25mm
    Explore Scientific 82 degree 8.8, 11, 14, 18 & 30mm
    Baader Genuine Orthoscopic 6, 7 & 9mm
    Explore Scientific Maxvision SWA 16, 20, 24, 28, 34 & 40mm*
    Televue Nagler 3-6mm Zoom
    Televue Delos 8, 12 & 17.3mm
    Explore scientific 100 degree 9*, 14* & 20mm*
    Meade Series 5000 UWA 6.7mm*
    GSO 20mm Plossl*
    Vixen 20mm NPL
    BST Starguider 15mm (x2)
    Williams Optice 25mm WA (x2)*
    TS Binoviewer*
    Generic 2" 2x ED Barlow
    Explore Scientific 1.25" Focal Extender*
    GSO 1.25" 2.5x Apo Barlow*
    Lunt 1.25" Herschel Wedge*
    * means in current ownership.
    At the time of writing, that's and average of 2 scopes and 7 eyepieces per year!
  3. russ.will
    It's a question that comes up regularly, but what is the difference between a Barlow and a telecentric amplifier (TA), otherwise known as a Powermate, ES Focal Extender. Meade Telextender, Bresser SA Barlow, etc? A telecentric amplifier does give a 2x magnification, just like a Barlow but that's where the similarity ends.
    A Barlow is a negative doublet (Smyth lens) that causes the exiting light rays to diverge and hence deliver the image amplification. If you move the EP further from the Barlow the magnification increases, whilst taking the Barlow nose-piece off and screwing it onto the EP will [generally] give 1.6x magnification, assuming we're talking a 2x Barlow.
    In the FE/Powermate/TE/SA Barlow (the latter isn't a Barlow, which is a confusion) the negative doublet is followed by a positive doublet that turns the exiting rays back to parallel - ie, telecentric. Because the rays are parallel, the distance between the EP and the amplifier elements is [broadly] irrelevant as the image amplification was done internally, between the TA lens elements.
    In practice, this still means that the effective focal ratio of the scope is doubled - It's a common misconception that the EP focal length is halved - but unlike a Barlow, the eye relief of the EP in use is unaffected. In other words, you insert an ES FE in the scope and the EP behaves exactly as it did before and the scope has effectively doubled in focal length.
    The down side is that double the number of lens elements costs more, but whereas a Barlow (which has other uses because of what it does) tends to feel like a second-best-to-an-additional EP, the ES FE simply feels like you have an extra EP. In visual terms, it's a less intrusive and more transparent solution and a more transparent device.
    So the Barlow is second best? Well no, not all of the time.
    For the reason why, you only really have to look at Televue Naglers and the clones thereof. They weren't the first (contrary to popular forum lore, but they're certainly the most successful) to use the idea, but what Unc Al realized was that whilst it was easy(ish) to create a wide field EP, the difficulty was in creating them at shorter focal lengths with an eye relief usable by humans AND with a well corrected field of view, especially in fast scopes like large Newts.
    Essentially, what he did was create longer focal length wide field EPs and then fit them with a Smyth (Barlow) element in the nose. Thus, you got an EP that acted as a shorter effective focal length, but had greater eye relief than it would have without the Smyth element. Very cool. In fact, this is the source of the reason why Naglers (and there derivatives) are renowned as well corrected in fast scopes. The Smyth element does increase eye relief, but as per a Barlow, it effectively increases the focal length and therefore focal ratio of the scope. As we know, a slower scope is less prone to aberrations, but in this case, it's the EP that is effectively delivering it. Your Nagler is better corrected, because it effects a better correct scope.
    So, this is also what your Barlow can do. A 20mm EP in a Barlow (and TA) will give a better corrected view than a 10mm EP, all other things being equal. This is handy, especially if you like your Orthos and Plossls which tend to have ever shorter eye relief with decreasing focal length. A Barlow can be partnered with a longer FL EP to give an effective shorter FL EP, without the need to glue your eyeball to the EP it emulates.
    Whereas a TA uses up it's focal length in the focal path, a Barlow does the opposite and pushes the focal point outward - It adds optical path length. How is this handy? Well if you have a binoviewer that uses up 110mm+ of focal path, the scope (refractors in particular) may not have enough space available to rack the focuser inward to compensate. A Barlow, or at lest the doublet element from the nose of it, screwed into the Binoviewer is enough to push the focal point outward and get you that focus point back.
    That's just one example. The important point is that whilst a TA is, as long as it has room to work, a generally superior device, there are times when a Barlow has qualities all of it's own. A good example of both will be a one off purchase and both will deserve space in your EP case. Buy right first time and you may find they remain a constant, whilst your prized EPs come and go.....
    Russell
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