Jump to content



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Petervde

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Antwerp, Belgium
  1. I recently received my Atik 460EXM ccd camera. Contrary to common belief, skies cleared soon after :-) Here's my first test image in combination with a 10" f/4.8 Newtonian. Since it was not a test of the optics, I didn't put in the coma corrector, which clearly shows in the image. Cocoon Nebula (IC5146): 15x5m subs.
  2. Hi, You should also take a look at another brand, which is not well known. The iNova-cameras are sold in France and Germany (http://www.astroshop...x-310kp/p,22833) and are less expensive than the Imaging Source cameras. The iNova PLA-Mx however has the same Sony ICX618ALA-chip as the DMK21-618. I have bought one a couple of months ago and it comes with some great software. I use it for planetary imaging and as a guiding camera. Works great. It is also Ascom compatible, so no problems there... Peter
  3. Hereby an image I made of Jupiter on Friday evening. The planet is rapidly shrinking in apparent size. I used my 25cm Newtonian, 5x Barlow and iNova PLA-Mx monochrome webcam, based on the Sony 618-sensor. The film of 3.000 images was processed with Avistack-software. Hope you like it. Peter
  4. Not a lot of advice needed, Emil. The images are simply stunning ! Peter
  5. Gorgeous image, Harel. That PowerNewt performs flawlessly. Peter
  6. Hi Olly, You should take a look at the Astro-Physics 0,75 focal reducer for your TEC. I don't own a 140mm TEC, but I have read some positive comments about the TEC/AP-combination. I own a 110mm f/6.5 TEC in a 'William Optics suit' and use the dedicated field flattener for that, but it's not a reducer. Peter
  7. Great image. Here's my attempt from June 23rd. I used an Atik 16HR in combination with a William Optics 80mm f/6 triplet apo. The total exposure time was 11x3 minutes. M51 supernova | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Peter
  8. Great image, and you have captured the supernova as well (a 'plus', I would say) ! Peter
  9. Hi everybody, I ran some tests of the Synguider the last couple of weeks, using it mainly with my Losmandy GM-8 (non-Gemini) mount. Hereby two single frames: IC 1396 - 6 minute exposure and M 104 - 3 minute exposure. Both were made at a focal length of 500mm using a modified Canon 450D. IC 1396 (Cepheus): All sizes | Test image IC1396 (6m) | Flickr - Photo Sharing! M 104 (Virgo): All sizes | Test image M104 (3m) | Flickr - Photo Sharing! I was quite pleased with the ease of use and results of this standalone guider. A couple of negative points have already been mentioned on this forum: the bui
  10. Hi Harel, Who will be in charge of your European sales? I see a link to ASA on your website, but it's not clear whether they act as dealer or producer of the 2" correctors. I live in Belgium so I would welcome sales in north-western Europe ! Peter
  11. Hi John, To find the correct crop factor for your sensor, you divide the diagonal of a full frame sensor (24x36mm, diagonal 43.3mm) by the diagonal of the sensor of the Atik (10.2x8.3mm, diagonal 13.15mm). Hence: 43.3/13.15 = 3.29. This is the crop factor. So, for example, a 200mm lens would act as a 200x3.29=658mm lens when used with your Atik camera. Peter
  12. Hi Olly, I have a Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L II usm lens of my own and it works just wonderfully on my modified Canon EOS 450D. This is the field of view of this combination. The lens can be used at f/2.8 but suffers a tiny little bit at the edges. I therefore use this lens at f/3.2, which works just fine. Peter
  13. Hi Robert, Yep, there is field rotation in the image ... unfortunately. Subs of 25 minutes are quite long and I have done the polar alignment with the polar scope on the Losmandy GM-8. I should have used the drift method to finetune the polar alignment. Peter
  14. Hello Blinky, In Photoshop you should have a look at each histogram separately (R, G and and remove the colour bias by placing the black point for each colour separately. That's a good start. Then have a look at the form of the histogram to check out if there isn't any colour balancing problem. Loading this image in PS, the blue histogram is clipped on the left side and is far more pronounced that the R and G-channels. Work with the middle slider in the Image/Levels window to change the importance of each colour or work via Image/Adjustment/Colour Balance. Peter
  15. Superb focusing and tracking. Very nice processing too. I like it a lot ! Peter
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.