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Everything posted by Stephen

  1. Sorry Earl, my bad - I thought you meant FLI camera :facepalm: Will teach me to read posts properly
  2. That's just mean Steve Little extra ... hmm, beyond OAG I don't know what that could be
  3. No, a wider FOV will not change the magnification. That is determined by the EP and scope focal lengths alone As FOV goes up, cost goes up (typically.) The "goal" as you put it is not what do you gain from using narrower FOV EP's, it's what do you gain from using wider FOV EP's ... to which the simple answer is more sky in the eyepiece
  4. The LX's are better (IMHO) contrast, clarity and view. However the BST's are cheaper and not to be sniffed at, bang for buck there is a reason they are recommended lots. Not a great answer I know, but if you can get to a local meet or a star party having a look through them would be the best bet - what works for one person (eyepiece wise) does not always work for others
  5. Either email the seller directly (website here http://www.skysthelimit.org.uk/ ) or get them from his eBay account This guide is definitely worth a read to which focal lengths - http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/43171-eyepieces-the-very-least-you-need/ Also in addition to the above guide I loved my 32mm Skywatcher Panaview in the 200P
  6. Turn that light off!!! I loose my way in the skies just going to Kelling, bet that view would blow my mind
  7. I love the Lakeside on my Tak - BUT the Tak focuser I have is very good which is why I did not contemplate changing it
  8. Your scope has a focal length of 2M, that's not really ideal for starting imaging with as will almost certainly require guiding From what I understand of it, the StarSense is not going to solve your problems here - it's only for setting up accurate GOTO (compensating for PA error.) Imaging without (and even with) guiding requires accurate PA - for this, does the mount have a polar scope as I don't see any mention of performing manual PA in your description (other than point it N and 51deg)? EQMod doesn't work with your mount I'm afraid
  9. OVL are the distributors rather than retailers, but they have been known to source these before. If the mount was purchased new I would suggest emailing your supplier and asking them to contact OVL on your behalf If the mount was second hand ... I believe aunty FLO may be able to play middle man for you but you would need to ask them
  10. Powered USB hub and EQDir/Mod for pulse guiding I use the Hitech jobby as that also removes the need for a dew heater / power cables / focuser controller too .... one cable to battery and one cable to computer - simples!
  11. Yes, depending on the make of mount - however I've never heard of one burning out the motors before ... and you've have to be doing something pretty daft (like going to bed with the scope approaching the tripod) for it to be crashing into the tripod and driving against it for a lengthy period of time
  12. Why risk it? Pick one that says it's going to work with your camera?
  13. The Skywatcher API is sort of open sourced I think, is there anything useful in there?
  14. Wrong, very wrong Could not agree more Baader's are about the best I've used for parfocal-ity, however it was still very obvious if I did not refocus between filters
  15. There is a tiny, tiny filament of red in there. I've seen it on one of Ibbo's images Can't remember if he said it was Ha or just red though
  16. I have to agree with this Not sure you would get much benefit from shooting 10mins Ha on M45 ... try something like IC405
  17. The spacers and things are for when using it visually. Each scope / eyepiece combination will have a different spacing requirement to correctly remove the coma
  18. It's not really designed to be used like that whilst imaging - if you use a barlow (in some way, which is pretty much a bad idea for deep sky) then you effectively remove the coma as you're only looking at the central part of the image You can put a 2" filter on the bottom of it (the bit that goes foremost into the scope.)
  19. This? http://www.telescopehouse.com/acatalog/Revelation-Self-Center-adapter-1.25-.html
  20. From memory the only bit you want is the bit with glass in it, put all the rest to one side. The bit with glass in it has a 2" barrel, that pushes into the scope. The other end has a thread on it, that goes into your camera or t-ring (as appropriate) Edit : There is one very slim threaded part (it's got writing on it) that I never worked out if it needed to be on the corrector or not - maybe someone else can answer that
  21. Once ... I got caught ... Doing visual astronomy :o :o
  22. 1. 5x will be too much I fear but I'm sure there are others that manage this 2. 80mm T2 extension tube is what you require
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