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Posts posted by Stephen
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Lenses are for glasses .
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Mirrors are for shaving
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Just to chuck my results in Olly ... mine is now finally set up and I can report there's no backlash in DEC and I've checked this every 15deg all the way round the axis, no feel of movement and hand controller does not report any movement either
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I wouldn't leave the blanking plugs out. It is vital to keep a worm drive clean. (On the iEQ45 the drives are visible from the outside. That cannot be good.) I would just put a drop of Loctite on the plugs. They will come out OK but won't fall in.
Things like that tend to annoy me ... I think I'd probably put something better in or just electrical tape them over once removed ...
After my recent epic of a fan screw falling out INSIDE my 460ex, I'm not taking any chances
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This sounds as if it might be OK to me. The thing is, is it consistent all the way round? If it is you can adjust the tension of the mesh should you find you need to. I'm guessing you have the version with the three blanked off holes on the Dec worm housing? These seem to have been introduced to facilitate this. Don't screw the blanking plugs all the way in, ever. They can drop right inside.
Olly
Still not looked at mine yet (waiting for tripod to arrive) but would it be "safe" just to leave those blanking plugs out? Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen to me ...
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Same problem for me - I resorted to making a cut in each one I used
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Well first and foremost it is not a scam, but no one "official" will ever recognise the name you've given the star.
Secondly, the ISD (of which I can't find a trace online) does appear to exist to stop these companies selling the same star to different people
As to finding the star in a reasonable catalogue, I think you may struggle. These stars are normally really faint is visible at all and not generally classified by formal bodies.
What documentation did they give you, maybe a star chart or similar?
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Other pointless warnings might include:
Buying this kitchen knife won't make you cook like Gordon Ramsey
Buying this aftershave won't make women throw themselves at you like Jude Law
Buying this car won't make you drive like Damon Hill
etc ...
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I just thought I'd share the very positive experience I've had with FLO over the past couple of weeks. (One of many it must be said! I have a thing for making difficult requests ...)
First up I ordered a Baader Steeltrack for my ED80, which almost as soon as I opened I decided I didn't actually want!
Despite my youngest daughter eating the packaging (I do feed her honest ...) FLO accepted the Steeltrack back without question or deduction from the amount paid.
After offering me a full refund or credit against another purchase, I mentioned I wanted a customised Moonlite that wasn't listed on the web site. (Hi-resolution motor and one of the modified focuser draw tubes.)
Martin gave me a price on it through the help desk (all emails were replied to very quickly) and then went on to order it for me and have it brought in from the US with their own order probably saving me a fair few quid on importing it myself!
Much appreciated and many thanks to all at FLO : another very satisfied customer here
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One of this
Deluxe Vixen Style Photo Dovetail (about half way down the page)
Seconded, I really like mine but then again I don't put HUGE lenses on it
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I can only find ones being sold by Rother Valley Optics, so if you are referring to them - yes they are a reputable trader.
In answer to the question in the title, Telrads seem to be very "marmite" (Love or Hate ...)
I personally fall into the love category, and don't use anything but my Telrad for locating objects.
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I would suggest marking the cell and tube with bits of tape, so that you can put back the screws exactly in the holes they came out from. It might not be needed, but over the years I have always marked things so it stops problems occurring that weren't there to start with.
If memory serves, the cell only goes back in one way as it has a notch in it to fit the seam in the OTA
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Actually, I'd go with having the scope vertical. Remove all the screw and then lift the tube off. Doing it horizontally means
1. gravity will pull on the remaining screws as you progressively pull them out, making your job harder
2. mean you have to roll the ota (!) to reach all of them
3. when you take the last one out, the cell may fall out, damaging something.
Fair points, but I had Bobs Knobs so I couldn't put it vertically
The cell is really jammed in, I'd be suprised if it could just fall out - I did have a hand behind the mirror though just in case
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Based on a 200P but I think they are the same.
6 philips screws around the base of the tube - remove these with the tube lying horizontally.
Once they are all out, slowly and carefully back the cell assembly (black bit) out of the OTA.
How far do you want to go with this?
Next up you could remove the mirror clip screws (3 lots of 2) and carefully remove the clips without touching the mirror.
Mirror is then free to come out of the cell.
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Only good things to say about Harrisons too. I think everything I've ordered from them has arrived next day.
Not that they quote that, but it's been my experience
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I wouldn't worry about me - I talk drivel half the time!
Ron beat me too it anyway!!!
Ant
Half the time?
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Runtime Error 55 is something along the lines of "file already open" in programmer speak.
Can you try rebooting, then starting one application only and connecting?
Just a thought - by no means do I claim to have any knowledge
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Given all the interest in these astronomically suited webcams why don't Philips and others manufacture them for this market?
That would save a lot of people a load of hassle and the risk of ruining the webcam/not being able to sort out the right driver, and the makers would reap reward of profits on the whole bundle rather than just the webcam itself.
Anyone got contact details for Dragon's Den?
They do, Atik, Imaging Source etc. etc. - Those that do manufacture them for this purpose charge for it!
The SPC is the "cheap" way in.
Still ATEOD it's still a very small market in the grand scheme of things.
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I've just picked up a mono ccd off fleaBay (£20) and I'm going to try converting my 880 on Monday. Anyone have any useful hints?
ASCOM over network.
in Discussions - Software
Posted
I'm not sure I follow what you're trying to do here - you can remote control one PC with another that's running ASCOM and connected to the rig, is that what you mean?