the lemming

I posted this in the widefield forum but there is a bit of tumble-weed going on, So I was hoping for a bit of help here. I've been waiting all year for my first ever viewing of the Geminids and I'd appreciate any help or advice to get the best images that I can. I have a GH5, lawa 7.5mm lens and a sturdy tripod. I also have a Dark Sky location near me that is Milky Way class so I think I've touched all the basics. I'm hoping to get a timelapse where I can mix and match some of the stills to create a Still composite of several good streaks as well. Thing is, I've never done a star timelapse before, so I would appreciate settings advice. Cheers

I've been waiting all year for my first ever viewing of the Geminids and I'd appreciate any help or advice to get the best images that I can. I have a GH5, lawa 7.5mm lens and a sturdy tripod. I also have a Dark Sky location near me that is Milky Way class so I think I've touched all the basics. I'm hoping to get a timelapse where I can mix and match some of the stills to create a Still composite of several good streaks as well. Thing is, I've never done a star timelapse before, so I would appreciate settings advice. Cheers

Hopeful bump.

Just seen a YouTube on a Newest 2-in-1 Star Tracker. However I'd appreciate any real world views or comments on this bit of kit. Cheers

While randomly wantering through Youtubes of editing astrophotography, I just heard about ISO Invarience. I've never heard of this before. Of those that have heard of this, and understand it, does ISO Invarience do what it says on the tin? Can I shoot ISO 650 and then bump up to ISO 2000 in post production without suffering a noise penalty?

This may sound like a daft question, but it has me stumped. During the day, taking shots I have various tools at my disposal, histogram, zebras and waveform. But at night, what should I be doing to get good exposure? Should I consider something like Expose To The Right? I only have one more good night of my holidays and I want to learn as much as I can before going home. Cheers

Thank you everybody for your help. 🙂

I'm on holiday at the moment, somewhere top-secret and dark. I wish 🙂 I've got a holiday let in Wiltshire which has an adjoining field and so little light polution that I can just about see Andromida by eye and definitely by binoculars. But it's a steep learning curve and I only have a couple of nights left of clear skys before home time. I have a 7.5mm f2 lens, camera (GH5) and tripod. With trial and error I think that I have worked out that I can use a 15 second or possibly 20 second maximum exposure with ISO 2000 to get pin-sharp stars. For Star Trails I have the shutter speed of 3 seconds at ISO 800. Is this about right or can I push things further? Is it better to use in-camera noise reduction or use my computer's processing power to do this for me? I'm experimenting with Starstax, Sequator and lightroom to reduce noise.

I did mention in the opening post which slr I own.

I'm just off to bed after my night shift. Would spending a little bit more be worth getting one of these? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LCHLDWS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=gs2&linkId=5ff732cb55f0f0185e1fc3577938d655&creativeASIN=B01LCHLDWS&tag=nebulaphotosu-21&creative=9325&camp=1789

Would something like this from Amazon work with my phone? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0188KP6T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9cYvFb7VNXMMC

I had a look at a YouTube on the Skyguider Pro last night. Cheers

I've decided to shake off the dust from my Skywatcher Heritage 130p Dodson and take some photos. What would I need to adapt the telescope to capture images with a mobile phone? Could this telescope even be adapted to take images with a Panasonic GH5? And finally, is it even possible or worthwhile to find a way to make the telescope track the night sky while I take images? At the moment I don't have any suitable tripods for such a project.

I have just learned about Star Trackers but I'm confused about the different varieties and what I would possibly need to take night time images. I would appreciate any advice on a Star Tracker that would fit to a Manfrotto tripod, a Panasonic GH5 with a 100-400mm lens. Cheers

Thank you everybody for your help

That's great. Cheers

It would seem that I've been reading too many articles about the maximum exposure time in relation to a lens focal length to get pin-point stars and now my brain hurts. The most recent article I read suggested that the rule of 500 or 450 was originally designed for full-frame cameras with 35mm film was no longer accurate for modern cameras. The article stated that with the advent of dSLR sensors pushing 40-50 mega pixels and modern lenses which are better designed the old 500 and 450 rules show imperfections in image quality when pixel peeping. Am I reading too much into all this and best to stick with the 500 or 450 rule?

Does this mean that you have used a mask with your camera+lens, and NOT a telescope? If this is the case, did you notice any difference in your images when using the mask or manually focusing your camera using your 'Mark 1' eyeball?

Hello Its been a few years since I've been on here and I have a small personal project coming up in a couple of weeks. I'm hoping to tick off the Milky Way on my Bucket List and I've been doing a bit of random reading about focusing on stars. I'm hoping to capture the Milky Way with my Panasonic GH5 and 7.5mm lens, which is coming in the post, soon. But not soon enough 😀 The lens is completely manual Laowa f2. I have also read about people using Bahtinov Masks to focus digital cameras that are attached to telescopes. Is it possible, or even worthwhile attaching a Bahtinov Mask to a 7.5mm lens+camera combo to achieve focus. Or is it just as effective to use the camera's screen and use peak focusing on a bright star? If it is worth getting a Bahtinov mask, where could I get one for a 46mm screw filter thread? Cheers muchly.