Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 30/09/19 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    X1 180" ISO 1250 F2.5 Sigma 35mm art lens Sony A7rii
  2. 7 points
    I've been using the camera now for a few weeks initially under the brighter summer skies and now under darkening autumnal skies. Time to put a few thoughts together. Firstly: My skies are classified as Bortle 4 though I have made no attempt to clarify that - just taken the value from FLO's Clear Outside I tend at present to image using an Altair Wave Series 115 EDT-APO refractor with a 1x Planostar Field flattener and a Baader UV/IR cut filter 1.25" on an iOptron CEM60 Standard mount. I use a TS 80mm guidescope piggybacked on the 115 with an ASI120mm camera as the guide camera. I have a home built RoR observatory and the mount is fitted to an iOptron Tri-pier. I tend also to run the camera at -20°C and capture via SG Pro (3.0.1.####) with Gain set to 122 and offset at 30. Processing is usually via PixInsight (Ripley 1.8.##) with the occasional tweak in Photoshop CS3 Extended. APP may be added at some stage. Thoughts: This has been a diversion for me away from a mono CCD based imaging rig (SX 825 mono + RGB & Ha filters) and DSLR camera bodies (Nikon 800E OSC and D5100 mono converted) in to the CMOS OSC sphere. It appears (to me) much faster (density build up) than I expected. Initially I kept subs shorter with more of them to build an image. Under the brighter summer skies that worked well. However as the skies have darkened with autumn approaching I found colour saturation in individual subs much increased by lengthening my sub exposures. Earlier I used 2 and 3 minute subs under the brighter skies. Now I'm settling into using 5 and 10 minute subs, using the same gain and offset settings. I find the camera handles colour well, it seems quite well balanced with the usual green excess removal during processing using PI's SCNR (I set the slider to 20% and make multiple adjustments rather than leaving it at 100% and one hit...). Initially frightened by the look of the dark frames with their spiked fans spreading across the frame. This is the one area that I've found awkward in that the dark frames have to be carefully matched to the light frames and when processed they should not be optimised as this seems to cause the spikes. I've found processing in PI more difficult in respect of amp glow removal. Astro Pixel Processor (APP) seems to deal with the amp glow much better but I've never been able to get what I feel is good colour from APP. I've only used it for a single trial period but at present don't feel inclined to spend money on it. Flat, flat/darks and bias frames are easy to procure and apply. Noise is low, whether single subs or after stacking. I do dither frames so that will suppress background noise but I've found little need to hit images with PI's TGVDenoise or other noise reduction routines. I'm more than happy with the camera. Perhaps I'm lazy and found the routine of RGB filtering a chore against the relative ease an OSC offers. There are differences though: Colour with the 294MC Pro OSC is softer, pastel like almost, against a mono/RGB set-up, but it responds well to level and saturation adjustments during processing. Looking forward now to the longer darker nights of winter and the arrival of a RASA 8 to put the 294MC Pro on to... A few recent images from the camera scope combination. Francis 30/09/2019.
  3. 4 points
    I was out with my big dob last night enjoying the galaxies in the SE of the sky. I came across this little treasure. A pair of galaxies in Andromeda. I had identified them as a target using DSS images and thought I would try even though I was not hopeful in my skies. I was able to star hop to and pick out the close pair of stars to the right of the galaxies in this image fairly easily. The stars are mag 12 and mag 14. Of course they are white to the eye, no lovely colours visually. I could make out both galaxies with averted vision but NGC 317A the small elliptical was the brighter of the two. Both very small but still a lovely sight. Here is my original observation. They have been featured as object of the week here: http://www.deepskyforum.com/showthread.php?1302-Object-of-the-Week-September-1-2019-NGC-317-A-B-and-PGC-3432&p=7331 www.caelumobservatory.com has this great image of the pair on their web site. I am sure that the pair would be visible in a 16 inch scope so if you have a big dob then give them a go after observing M31! This pair are 230 million light years away so a bit of a way out from M31. Mark
  4. 3 points
    Heya, I woke up to some heavy fog and clouds, but it cleared up later in the late morning when seeing had already deteriorated so I dropped the imaging scale. There are two sets of pretty interesting large prominences on the limb, one is a strange loop like a sideways arch, and the other is a big flame wall. A wee filament persists on the disc's surface. No spots of course. Colored: B&W: From 1730pm Eastern Time, a minor active region opened up and a tiny flare was noted: Equipment: 120mm F10 Refractor + PST Mod + ASI290MM (HA partial disc) ED80 + PST Mod + IMX174 (HA Disc) ED80 + 430nm + IMX174 (Photosphere Disc) Very best,
  5. 3 points
    Here's a miserly 2500x
  6. 3 points
    As Dave says I have started imaging with a 14" Meade ACF but it is not on my Mesu but on the EQ8. I bought it more as an impulse since I found it cheaply (2500 GBP) near where I live and thought I could give it a try on my EQ8 that was not in use after I bought the Mesu200. I have to say I have been very positively surprised by how relatively easy it has been to get decent images out of it. With a ZWO OAG and Lodestar X2 I have on good nights had 0.4 "/pix RMS. Here is the first image I caught with it (NGC7331) using a Canon 60Da for RGB and an ASI1600MMpro for lum, totally 5 hours over two nights. I used a Lepus 0.62x reducer so FL=2.2 meters f/6.2. One important point: I also built a second obsy to house this thing - I would never try to set it up each night - just the tube weighs 37 kg (I believe that Celestron is a bit lighter as they use thinner metal.).
  7. 2 points
    September 27-28, 2019 Rural Dark Site Fithian, Illinois. USA 40.009685,-87.832128 Elevation 670 ft Pentax 8.5X43 Oberwerk 25X100 2100-0100 Transparency was very good all evening. Seeing average at 2100 but improved through the evening. Pickering 3 at outset increased to 4 by 2300. Henry and I had a grand outing at our Fithian dark site. Henry imaged with his Quatro and I lounged with my binoculars. At midnight when NGC7000 was nearly at zenith I made the observation free handing my Oberwerks 25X100 binoculars reclining in my ZG chair. Easy peasy... I attempted to render a sketch as closely as I could to the contrasts which I was actually viewing. Before it was all over I had spent the evening in what amounts to "Birdwatcher Astronomy". I bounced around and followed a meandering trail of "pickups" as I enjoyed the binoculars. Sometimes the 25X100s were mounted on the tripod. Sometimes the 25X100s were free handed in the recliner. And sometimes a wondered with the 8.5X43s. In fact I often use the 8.5X43s as finders for the big guns. When I ran upon an item a went to the 25X100 for a closer view. Once in a while the 25X200 constructed the field too much...Collinder 65 is an example of this situation. This OC revealed most fully in the 8.5X43 Pentax NGC752 OC Open cluster in Auriga M33 Spiral galaxy in Triangulum. Presented is a dusty irregular oval with faint brightness increase at the center. No defined structure revealed. This is a very low contrast view in the 25X100s. LAGOON NEBULA, Messier 8 in Sagittarius. Pleasing nebulisity. WILD DUCK Messier11. Open cluster in Scutum. SATURN Bare minimum of resolve of Saturns rings. JUPITER Visual observation only. M2 Globular cluster in Aquarius. M30 Globular cluster in Capricornus. M29 Ooen Cluster in Cygnus. NGC 7000 Bright Nebula in Cygnus North American Nebula This is revealed to me as a faint cloud somewhat shrouded to the north in a myriad star field standing out by contrast to its background in the south. Hyades, Mel 25 This is a well known 330 arcmin Open Cluster in Taurus. I always enjoy this Cluster. NGC1647 Open cluster in Taurus northeast of Albebaran and the Hyades cluster. NGC1746 Open cluster in Taurus east of NGC1647 CR65 Collinder 65 Ooen cluster in Taurus CR69 12:43 AM Open Cluster in Orion with the star Meissa north and East of Bellatrix. So there it is. We had fun. We ate some sandwiches. We Snapped some pictures. Henry shared his views with me and I shared my views with him. Clear skies.
  8. 2 points
    finally starting to look like a scope just 4 more truss pole ends to make then i can shorten the poles to the right length and do the spider and finish the collimation side of the mirror cell
  9. 2 points
    I find when I am doing a visual session, I wish I was doing imaging, and when i am doing imaging, I really regret it and wish I was doing visual
  10. 2 points
    The observatory is nearly finished ! Door and window were finally ready, placed the window past week and the door just now with some help. Lights are installed. industrial closets were delivered this week. last point to check off are some electrical details, and hanging up some foto’s and posters and some painting.
  11. 2 points
    Of course, if you have a big enough telescope you don't need hyperstar. This is 2 mins exposure at f/10 The catch? A 2 m aperture on la Palma, the Liverpool Telescope.
  12. 2 points
    Then you'd be be making a mistake. There is no reason at all not to image at F11. You simply need the right pixel size, or more precisely the right effective pixel size. (CCDs can be very effectively binned, CMOS less so.) There is more nonsense per square inch on the Hyperstar site than on any other website I've visited in astronomy. They write as if going from F11 to F2 had no consequences beyond speed of acquisition, which is laughable. Any idiot can point a short FL, fast F ratio scope at a tiny target and get an image in which the tiny target remains tiny and the S/N ratio of the image is excellent. But it will remain a widefield image of a tiny target, which is fine if that's what you wanted - but is it? And, as a widefield instrument, do you really expect a mass produced SCT with a massive focal reduction to produce images which compare with a well crafted fast astrograph? It simply won't, and its mechanical infrastructure is inadequate. A moving mirror focuser at F2? No thanks. Tilt and how to eliminate it? All suggestions welcome. I don't say, 'Forget the Hyperstar' but I do say, 'Please, take a cold shower before swallowing the Hyperstar hype,' because that's what it is. 'Easy' imaging at F2? Everybody experienced in imaging, and that does mean everybody, Knows that fast F ratios are very, very difficult to get into working order. The subject to Google is 'F ratio Myth.' It's worth the effort. The image below, captured by Julian Shaw with my processing, was captured in about 7 hours at about F15 in a Barlowed 6 inch refractor. Olly
  13. 1 point
    From a list of videos, this image was the final best among all. Maybe a cloud pattern can be noticed at pole. Now i'm waiting for a good sky to try capture in mono (IR)RGB.
  14. 1 point
    As a rough guide the Canon 1100D works best with an ISO of 800 or 1600, the exposure time will depend on a few factors but the histogram readout that is available on the camera will tell you if you need to increase the time or reduce it, aim for a main histogram peak around 1/3 the way from the left hand side. Most DSLR cameras seem to work better in terms of noise with max exposures no longer than 2-3 minutes, also allow a cool down time (10-20 seconds) between shots. Alan
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    The Orion nebula appears green in a 4" and the colour intensifies as aperture increases, especially when you're well dark adapted. Also, the double cluster in Perseus is a colourful and pleasing object to study. One of the pass times I enjoy, is choosing a constellation, and examining each of its more obvious stars for binaries and their contrasting colours.
  17. 1 point
    It's in Science - Radio Astronomy and Spectroscopy Regards Andrew
  18. 1 point
    Carport, gardenshed and bicycle storage is included
  19. 1 point
    Excellent effort, some nice details there especially for 102mm aperture.
  20. 1 point
    Nothing terribly exciting, sun was out for quick capture. Prom in shape of chili pepper.
  21. 1 point
    Seems very over cautious to me! 8.7e- RN is equivalent to 75e- signal. A sky 5x this signal (not noise) - i.e. 375e- will only see the overall noise increase by 10% or so due to the RN contribution and I am pretty certain most people could not spot such an effect NigelM
  22. 1 point
    I saw that as well Dave, CCDCalc reports the scale as 3.07arc-sec/pixel which I used for my dithering calculation (6720px wide sensor and 5.36 micron pixel size). Okay I know why, I resized the full frame down to 2048 pixels wide for Nova to work on I've corrected the top post
  23. 1 point
    Fantastic image Steve, pretty much echoing everyone elses comments. I like both versions, with tendency for more subtle verions myself also.
  24. 1 point
    Yes I saw this and do use it, I really meant after the capture, I think I am over stretching in some cases, but at the moment with other small problems I had, Flat are maybe out of sync and Darks may well need re-doing. I am putting a new mount in very soon so no point in bothering too much. Stay tuned though I am bound to cause myself some problem or the other. Alan
  25. 1 point
    I have a related problem, Alan. Though in my case it's because they don't appear to have considered the fact that some people don't actually get a mobile signal and therefore can't receive the text message. So instead I have to phone them and talk to someone to make transactions. Which is fine, if a little slow, unless I want to do anything outside their working hours in which case I'm stuffed. James
  26. 1 point
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.365astronomy.com/Solar-Filter-for-130mm-Newtonian-Telescopes.html&ved=2ahUKEwj5yJzbh_jkAhXkURUIHeJlAxoQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3deicknzz9OSSfCUkGqNUo Thia is what I have ordered, at £26 seemed reasonable. Telescope is same as my name, on a go-to AZ mount. I would love a 200p go-to dob in the future though and keep the 130 as a travel scope as we like to go camping. Yes, I'm aware of the transit and I should get a fabulous view from my south-facing garden, weather depending obviously. In the meantime, I will be practicing aligning the sun (I know to cover or remove the finderscope, don't worry!)
  27. 1 point
    Perhaps try stacking. Ten of those would be just the trick on a Saturday night.
  28. 1 point
    Some great information in this thread thanks all ! Im assuming then by using the 2x2 binning in APT this is done in the drivers which Vlaiv is saying to avoid ?
  29. 1 point
    Superb piece of work, sorry I missed it last night, I am not sure how, I always read your posts, I don't always understand them but I try to, thank-you for taking the time to write it. Alan
  30. 1 point
    One telescope for everything? A TEC 140FL or 160FL. Brilliant for visual or imaging.
  31. 1 point
    I need to update this thread. I returned the mount to FLO, which all seemed painless and easy enough. Rob gave it some attention, then returned it to me via DPD. So far, so good. I got the chance tonight to give it another try, with an unexpected window in the clouds. Nothing has changed. It still, will not GOTO at all accurately, will track to an extent, but not very well, or for very long. I did level it and aimed the OTA North, before starting and tried a three star alignment, without success. I have no idea what I am doing wrong. I also have no idea what fault Rob found. I did not do a firmware update before retuning it as I was very unsure of success. I have read of quite a few other people having issues with this mount and cannot help wondering if Skywatcher have quality control issues. I am also not impressed with the app. offered by them either, it is in my opinion, inferior to the one offered by Celestron, even though they belong to the same parent company! There is way too much white writing within the app, which spoils my night vision. I am left feeling as if I have a right lemon here and am beginning to regret getting this mount.
  32. 1 point
    Some really nice clear images thanks for sharing them with us Steve
  33. 1 point
    I'm thinking that binning will only work with my ASC if the image is slightly out of focus. If focus is sharp each star will land on just one pixel and binning would not increase the sensitivity. OTOH defocussing reduces the light falling on each pixel. Also, with an OSC (which I'm using ATM), a sharp image is liable to "loose" stars because they fall on the wrong dye blob. OR maybe worse the star colour will depend on which pixel the star falls on. Hmmm... Stars will only show their natural colour with a poorly focused image. Getting star colour and a reddish tinge from the Milky Way from hydrogen gas emission was one reason for using an OSC camera - the other was distinguishing between blue sky and grey cloud in daylight. Now I'm wondering if I would be better off using the ASI178MM for nighttime and a separate ASC for daytime. A daytime camera would not need an astro camera, or cooling, or dew heater or... etc... A mono camera has better sensitivity by not having the Bayer matrix
  34. 1 point
    I have only been doing astronomy for just less than two years. I am utterly hooked, obsessed my wife says. I am purely visual with the exception of a couple of ep moon shots and some wide field Milky Way pics. Money no object and I would be doing astrophotography but personally I need to see as much as I can with my own eyes for my own satisfaction. Being a ‘fanatic’ I talk to non astronomers who enquire about our pastime and run into a continual problem. Disappointment that what you see is not anything like a Hubble image! In this age of pictures before information the image has more impact and the reality for a lot of first timers is just ‘not’ graphic enough. Visual and photo require dedication and both are valid but with astrophotography you get a souvenir not a memory. A souvenir is something powerful and graphic, materially real after the event. Try getting someone engaged with the description “small grey fuzzy blob”” For me personally I am just glad some people are interested and not watching tv all day. If we need the glossy pictures as well as quiet contemplative ep work then people are looking up! That’s what matters. Marvin
  35. 1 point
    Even if you loose the colour information when binning a colour CMOS, it could be a useful procedure to create a lum layer for an over-sampled image as the S/N ratio would be increased. You can then process this separately from the RGB data and finally put that as lum on top of the RGB image (unbinned but downsampled to match the binned lum).
  36. 1 point
    I had a go at your original data with PixInsight. The process I used enhanced reflection halos which I haven't corrected. They can be reduced with an appropriate star mask.
  37. 1 point
    I wasn't sure if a colour CMOS camera could be binned, so I tried it.
  38. 1 point
    Here is my ASI178MC camera (in my all sky camera) binned 4x4 with duly increased sensitivity. Captured in KStars/Ekos. I've been trying to sort out the focus motor drive.
  39. 1 point
    Practising indoors with a photo is a great idea @MaHa, getting the technique right and working out how to get positions correct is tricky. I converted and tweaked your sketch in my phone just as an example. If you get more even illumination on the original then it is easier to get a good converted result.
  40. 1 point
    ! Don’t let it go, but a wide field scope is awesome as well. I need both. Hard to imagine you couldn’t find a worthy widefield instrument Rodd
  41. 1 point
    I've just come inside from an hour and forty five minutes of observing and have but three observations to show it. The small number of observations does not tell the whole story though. I started observing around 22:20. I'd been wearing an eyepatch over my observing eye for around 15 minutes before going out to give me a jump start on dark adaption. The first observation of the evening was Comet C/2018 W2 (Africano). I'd observed this a couple of times from my local dark site when it had been very faint, just showing with averted vision. This evening it was placed next to a pair of stars that were close to Delta Andromeda. My 9mm Lunt XWA showed a fairly diffuse comet but visible even in direct vision. An excellent start. Starting from Gamma Psc, I star hopped my way down to Neptune. My goal was to observe Neptune's moon Triton. I have tried and failed to see Triton more times than I care to remember. Earlier, this very week, I'd spent over an hour trying all kinds of eyepiece and barlow combination in the hope of getting just a glimpse of the faint moon. I'd regrouped for this evening's attempt with a fresh plan. I'd use my 9mm Lunt XWA and the Baader VIP Barlow in 2" mode with three T2 15mm spacers. If my calculations were correct that gave me a multiplier of 2.64. The Lunt would be giving 352x magnification and TFOV of 0.28 degrees. I had decided to try and keep to this combination rather changing eyepieces a lot. Well after 20 mins or so of watching the pale blue disc slide through the eyepiece with no luck, I decided to change the plan. My 9mm BGO has always given better contrast and sharpness than the Lunt so I screwed in a 2-1.25" adapter and started to use the ortho. The TFOV was now halved to only 0.11 degrees. My 10" dob is only manual so this did make tracking a bit more challenging. Time moved on and still no sign of Triton. I decided to throw some more magnification at it. The 9mm BGO was replaced with a 6mm. Things were getting serious now, 528x mag and down to 0.08 degrees TFOV. A few more passes and nothing. I decided to target a specific point above the planet rather than moving my eye around in search of the correct position. On the next pass a dim glow above and to the left of Neptune. My heart quickened. Two more passes and nothing. Then on the third came the same dim glow. It was farther away from Neptune that I'd expected. I set SkySafari up to show the FOV based on my eyepiece/barlow combination. The position of the glow looked good for Triton's position. Once again a few more passes with nothing and then the glow was found again in the same spot. I popped the 5mm BGO, 634x magnification. Tracking was tricky and I couldn't see the glow. I dropped back down to the 7mm Meade RGO, a mere 453x, on adjusting focus a clearer view came through and then more passes with nothing again. My eyes felt tired now so I stopped and just looked up for a couple of minutes. On returning to Neptune, the pattern of seeing nothing and then every few passes catching a dim glow above the ice giant continued. After awhile the glow was lost completely. Looking up showed that hazy cloud was now passing over and the rising Moon was starting to make its presence felt too. I returned to Comet Africano but it was now hidden by the thin cloud and Moon glow. Time to call it a night. Did I see Trition? Not in any satisfactory way but it's the first time that I really felt like it was there. This observation felt like a range finder. I've found the right combination of equipment and know what to expect. With darker skies, I'm sure my views of Triton can be greatly improve upon.
  42. 1 point
    Took this on my Huawei P30 Pro using Star Trails mode at 0.6x zoom so using its wide angle lens.
  43. 1 point
    And I'll watch and offer helpful advice Dave
  44. 1 point
    Here it is, couldn't create an amination in my ancient copy of PS, so used GIMP instead. It is 40 MB mind!
  45. 1 point
    Unfortunatelly one of my last Saturn images from 2018 was taken almost a month earlier than your. 2018-7-19 03:49h UT
  46. 1 point
    My 12 inch F/5.3 Orion Optics dob weighs around the same as a Skywatcher solid tube 10 inch dob. I can move my 12 inch around in 2 parts pretty easily. It's almost a "grab and go" scope actually
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Nice clear images Stephen. Sky and Telescope magazine have two very good free apps you can download, one for Jupiter and one for Saturn, showing the positions of the moons.
  49. 1 point
    Took a few simple single frame smartphone images with the Bresser 10” dob. Considering the scope had only been outside cooling for 15 minutes thought the results weren’t too bad.
  50. 1 point
    I'm pretty new to telescopes myself but somehow seem to have collected a few in a short space of time! To me the dob just doesn't seem user friendly (yeah others will disagree) but bumping the tube to shift your view seems too crude and inaccurate compared to slow-mo screws on the EQ mounts. For a beginner I can imagine it being very frustrating trying to make tiny adjustments until you get a feel for just how to... To me a decent EQ or AltAZ seems a much nicer engineering solution, tho for sure you get more aperture/£ going the dob route. Catch-22 tho as if it ain't working for you, interest rapidly wanes and you give up altogether, just my 2 cents The only dob-ish scope I have is the tiny NatGeo 76/350 so not a fair comparison, I know. To make very small movements is fraught with overshoots and irritation I find. Had originally got that as maybe something the grandaughter could use for looking at the moon etc, being so compact but am not so sure having played with it. Now think the Tal-M would be a better bet for her when I make it able to use just one pier tube to get the OTA down to her height I've a Skywatcher 130 Newt on EQ2 mount, reasonably light to move but being a long tube still awkward to carry out to the garden in one go, usually take the OTA off and do that in 2 moves. Once roughly N aligned its easy to follow objects with the slow-mo controls and reasonably smooth, does have the RA motor unit too when I want to use it. Being lazy I rough align to N with a compass which seems to work ok for visual. The Tal-M and Tal-1 newts are heavier but easier to lift and shift being pier rather than tripod mounted and again the slow-mo controls make fine shifts easy. For the Tal100RS refractor on EQ5 I've upgraded that with a SynScan goto dual motor GoTo. Wanted to be able to motorise RA to give relaxed viewing and maybe try some imaging later on, but landed on an EQ5 with synscan upgrade and tripod for a nice price so bought it. Had to transfer the motor drives to the EQ5 that came with the Tal as the one it was fitted to sticks in a couple places, but now it runs slick and smooth. Sadly not had a chance to use it under the stars yet, what with weather, poor skies, work and family stuff but I have tested it and done some learning in daylight, so think I should be ok. Being techy I guess too that I'd gravitate to this type of toy Alignment shouldn't take much more than a few mins from what testing I've done so far. As with most things new, patience is key as things can take a while to learn with frustration and setbacks along the way. I spent a year overhauling binoculars so when I started getting telescopes I was already comfortable with dismantling optics and collimating (much easier that aligning 2 sets of optics). All my gear has been sourced S/H via the bay and while some could do with some restoration (paint and mechanicals, not optics/mirrors) I feel I've bought reasonably well and end result is a selection of very useful gear that I'll enjoy using and restoring. In the end the real choice is yours, either try to overcome the frustration and learn how to use the dob, perhaps practise in daylight on distant targets and learn the touch needed to nudge it, or if poss try to meet up with someone who has a GoTo and can show and maybe let you try it so you know if it works for you, before spending a wedge only to find that it isn't. Are you OK finding your way around the skies with binoculars? That may be a low-cost way to learn how to navigate if you've not already tried it. I'd say if you do opt for a GoTo, do the same as I have, play with it in daylight when you can see what you're doing, learn how to do the 1/2/3-star alignment routine and select targets, park the scope in the home position etc. That'll save lots of frustration when you actually want to be using it in the dark and maybe reduce your setup time aligning it to just a few mins. HTH
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.