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Showing content with the highest reputation on 16/06/19 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Just a single image, no combination with WinJUPOS. Peter
  2. 5 points
    Captured the Moon the other night with my Nikon D810 mounted on my ES127FCD. Rendered in Photoshop.
  3. 4 points
    It Started clearing yesterday early evening, so I managed to get a couple of captures in between the white fluffy stuff. Not much surface detail, but some prom activity. Taken with a Quark Chromosphere and a Skywatcher Esprit ED80. Still limited in attempting to blend surface and prom captures with PSE. pc387
  4. 3 points
    Waited all day for the Sun to appear just to capture this, least worst of half a dozen vid's Dave
  5. 3 points
    +1 for the 6.5mm Morpheus. I was out last night observing the GRS on Jupiter and tried a few different EP's, including the SW Planetary 4mm and the 6.5mm Morpheus with and without a 2x Barlow and in.the end settled on the Morpheus on its own for the sharpest, clearest view. Even with the full moon very close and slightly wobbly seeing conditions the view was very good indeed.
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    It's brilliant isn't it? From your yard, viewing detail of planets 360 and 750 million (ish) miles away through the earth's atmosphere and the expanse of space. Awesome!
  8. 2 points
    Hi, Many thanks for your comments. Glad I took the above moon images, because my Jupiter images, I captured later on that evening, were rubbish! Regards, Steve
  9. 2 points
    My 6mm is the Ethos but I've had it for some years now and may well not have justified the cost if I was consideing buying it now, with the planets where they are in the sky. 6mm is a very useful focal length higher power eyepiece eyepiece for scopes from 900mm to 2000mm focal length but when you look around there are not many choices around in wide field designs. Perhaps the Baader Morpheus 6.5mm would be worth considering ?. Quality without the very high cost of some others (although not exactly cheap either of course). Good for globular clusters and planetary nebulae as well as doubles and solar system targets.
  10. 2 points
    Here’s my CPC 800 in action, ready for some lunar observing. The picture was taken at 00:25 so technically it was taken at night, but as you can see, there really isn’t such thing as night here in Finland during summer. However I upgraded the stock focuser yesterday and just had to get a “first light” with the new one. Very impressed after a glimpse of Jupiter! Clear Skies, Tomi
  11. 2 points
    Somewhat better result, cropped version of shot with Canon EOS 80D and Samyang 10mm F/2.8
  12. 1 point
    I recently picked up a used set of the AstroTech Paradigm (BST StarGuider) eyepieces minus the 3.2mm version (for which I have no use) to compare to my Meade Series 5000 HD-60 eyepieces. I wanted to do this because I'm always recommending them to beginners looking to upgrade their eyepieces despite never have used them. I haven't had a chance to use them under the stars, so a first light report will have to come later. I did measure their apparent fields of view (AFOV) and field stops from which I was able to derive their effective AFOV (eAFOV). I also tried my best to take pictures of each field of view when looking at a yard stick as I did in another thread. In addition, I took some beauty shots to illustrate the size differences and eye lens recession differences. First off, the data table: As you can see, the HD-60s tend to have wider AFOVs in the 12mm and below focal lengths while the Paradigms tend to be wider at 18mm and above. Also notice the much shorter usable eye relief of the 18mm and shorter Paradigms due to the excessive eye lens recession. All eye lenses are the same size within a give focal length range except at 18mm where the Paradigm's is smaller (while the AFOV is larger) leading to less eye relief even before eye lens recession compared to the 18mm HD-60. Also notice how much lighter the Paradigms are their HD-60 counterparts. Most of this can be attributed to the rather large and heavy twist-up eye cup of the Meades. The Paradigm twist-up eye cup is rather compact by comparison. As can also be seen from the beauty shots below, the Paradigms are always shorter than their nearest HD-60 counterpart. This also tends to help them be lighter than the Meades. Here are some beauty shots to compare them side-by-side. I notice I needed to swap the 4.5mm HD-60 with the 5mm Paradigm to keep them in focal length order. Oh well. Notice how flush mounted the HD-60 eye lenses are compared to the Paradigms with their rubber eye cups flipped down and retracted. The Paradigms refuse to retract all the way. And finally, the views through the eyepieces with no pixel resizing: So far, just from the above daytime usage, I'd have to give the 18mm and 25mm Paradigms the advantage over their Meade counterparts thanks to their wider AFOVs and the 18's seemingly better edge correction. At 12mm and below, the Meades have it over the Paradigms in terms of AFOV. Of all the Paradigms, only the 25mm Paradigm is comfortable to use with eyeglasses thanks to its large eye lens compensating somewhat for the inexplicable eye lens recession. All of the Meades are easy to use with eyeglasses thanks to their nearly flush mounted eye lenses that I tried to illustrate above, although the 4.5mm and 6.5mm are starting to get tight. When I get some time under the stars with them, I'll add more thoughts on field aberrations, stray light control, and contrast.
  13. 1 point
    Hi all, yesterday i’ve received the Solar Scout from FLO, did get a chance to test the views. Today it cleared up after some rain this morning. Anyway, got the gear set up and the Quark setteled and i must say i’m impressed with the views of this budget solar scope. some nice surface detail and prominences. i’m quite green when it comes to solar observing but comparing the views i had with a Baader solar film filter is like day and night.
  14. 1 point
    I have acquired an old brass telescope; age unknown, manufacturer unknown. It's a 9cm refractor, approximately F12 - F15 (condition is too poor to be certain as yet). The objective is filthy, inside and out so I need to open up the lens cell to extract, clean and reinstall the lens. A bit of context. This came from someone who had the box and tripod sitting in a garage for years and they know nothing of it's provenance. The box for the scope is rotten and rusted. The scope itself is corroded (not just patina but actual corrosion), the eyepieces are in reasonable condition but the objective is close to opaque. I have cleaned off the front surface of the lens but most of the grime seems to be on the inner surface, confirmed with a checking the scope from the inside with an endoscope. Looking at the inside with the endoscope showed no obvious joints where it should disassemble. Stripping and cleaning the focus with a wire wheel on a dremel and some patience has the mechanics moving again but the lens cell remains the problem. A couple of images to show what I have. The lens cell as is the way of these things has multiple grooves and ridges some of which may be joints most of which are probably decorative. There is a knurled ridge around the front of the scope at the front of the very first ring which suggests it may unscrew but if that has been sitting there for decades it may be difficult to remove and as the first ring is only a few mm deep there's not a lot to grab hold of. I have cleaned it a little (and yes I know about people's opinions on whether you should or shouldn't clean old telescopes but I don't know how old this is and without doing a little cleaning I can't see where I might get into this.) BTW that image is the cleaned condition. Yes that is the "clean" lens! So how might I open that lens cell? Suprisingly enough with a lens in there I don't want to put it in a vice and twist
  15. 1 point
    Might consider changing all the bearings in the mount for high quality ones (SKF and such). It cost me about 50e total to do it and for me, it certainly was worth it, since one of the bearings had cracked housing which caused spike in tracking graph. There are three different types if I recollect correctly. At the time I just took one of each and went to my local shop - handed those to the man working there and said something like - I need 3 of these, 4 of these and 1 like this one - but the best / smoothest running ones.
  16. 1 point
    The Altair is one heavy lump. Must weigh twice as much as the Primaluce.
  17. 1 point
    I have just been fortunate enough to purchase a 20 inch F4 dob with a type 2 paracorr. I was wondering if anyone with a similar setup could advise of expectations and give some new targets to look out for? Thanks,
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for the detailed reply, unfortunately I'm doing all of that and more I believe. I do perform an accurate polar alignment(spot on, or dot on in this case), I do 3 star align using 2x barlow and 3.6mm eyepiece(which from what I understand is incredibly not necessary), I also do exactly as you say, I only unclutch to the first star align and then the clutches remain locked. The thing is after selecting the first star, the second star is way off, and so is the third star. I really can't figure what I'm doing wrong. I've watched dozens of tutorials, read dozens of related articles, and still I can't seem to get it working. The most annoying thing is that I actually have to go star gazing just to try that and fail. It's not like I'm not having fun with just manual(using the synscan still) gazing, but I just think I can achieve much more. I'll ask again, does anyone have an idea how can I test my GOTO in my room? Totally agree
  19. 1 point
    Hi, I just recently bought a Tal-1m on ebay after a strange urge to look at the moon and Jupiter again took hold of me- something I haven't done for years... My previous experience had been with a Tal 65mm newt I bought brand new back in the day from, I think, Telescope House- lovely little thing but this Tal-1 is something else! I wanted a motorised equatorial mount as that was the thing that was a bit of a pain with the 65's alt-az mount and when I looked it was there waiting for me on ebay- and I love it The plan is to stick it in the boot of the car and drive off somewhere with a bit better seeing than SE London so I wanted to convert it to battery power. Plus the synchronous motor drive was very noisy...and shaky- you had to turn it off if you wanted a clear sharp image I opted for a stepper as I knew about these Trinamic drives with built in controllers and opted for one with "Stealthchop" which gives very smooth motion at low speeds. Bit pricey for a stepper but worked out quite neat and simple. You can programme in the speed you want it to run at and it will just start up and run at that speed as soon as it's powered. It runs off a Makita battery pack through the original connector, draws about 250mA so should last for hours, and is very very quiet. I got my measurements a bit wrong I think when I was drawing up the 30:1 reduction gears so I have to mount it slightly off line to avoid the big worm gear clutch screws clipping the new brass gears but it works fine and tracks the moon well. Mark IMG_2974.MOV
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Steve and Mick. I quite like the look of the old transformer as it goes but it’s not very portable- and that old clock drive was very noisy and shaky. I had to slacken off the worm a bit as it had a tight spot and I’ve limited the winding current to 200mA on the stepper to get it really silent, and it was stalling, but now it seems to be working excellently. I was using it last night for 3hrs(!) on the first clear night in what seems like ages with all the rain. Best nights viewing since I bought the scope- Jupiter, Saturn, Moon- so crisp and clear and the drive makes it so enjoyable Tried to split Antares and failed lol- think I might need more than 4” for that- though it did look different from other stars. Dont know if it’s because they were all fairly low but they did drift a little- I can probably tweak the speed a little but it’s so much more stable an image than with it switched off I probably won’t bother. Yes Mick- it’s meant to be a USB charger that you clip on your battery packs but makes a great little interface to other things with a simple drilled hole and soldered wires- I should fuse it really. They’re 10.8v (3cell ) packs so 12.6 fully charged and the stepper runs down to 8 or 9V I think. Mark
  21. 1 point
    Terrific captures, really like image of Posidonius with Mare Serenitatis, Atlas, Hercules.
  22. 1 point
    Excellent sketch! So immersive. Thank you so much for sharing!
  23. 1 point
    A great start, good images well done. Des
  24. 1 point
    Poor you, as you know I am not far away, if the withdrawal symptoms get too bad and we get a potentially great night give me a call.
  25. 1 point
    Hit wrong button, here's the image.
  26. 1 point
    How did you get on with using binoviewers and can you reach focus with them in your current scopes? If it was me I would always look to binoview for planetary unless it was impossible or for a lightweight travel setup where weight is important.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Sounds like a great night! Few things are as memorable as the first view of Jupiter and Saturn! Congrats! Rob
  29. 1 point
    First temporary assembly. Just to see how it will look like... All will be painted pristine white. It all fits very nicely. One thing I've got to change I think. These LMUU linear bearings I did use for the IPD units to run on, do not work very smoothly. So I will replace that system and use my own selfmade bearings. But I will wait to decide that, until second test-assembly when all is firmly bolted together. As it it now, completely 'empty', its weight : 7.4 kg So a carrying belt will not suffice imho, I'll need a chain...
  30. 1 point
    I converted my POD into a ROR dome, though it is a real PITA to get back on again as I discovered my base wasn't precisely circular (and too late to do anything about it now). So the dome wants to "ping back into circular shape" which makes it really difficult to clamp it back on again in the dark in the middle of the night - when I am half asleep and don't want to wake the neighbours when I want to shut it. Also I can't roll it back more than about a metre so the half dome is still in the way of stuff in the E/NE, but generally not a problem as most of that area is taken up by the house being in the way anyway, which was why I planned it that way, and a lot of targets will be rising from that direction and seen eventually. That is true too, and next door's tree has grown a lot since I put in the obsy. So one day I decided to set up on the patio as I used to before I got the Obsy, only to find the other next door have built a loft extension since then and now I can;t see Polaris from the patio. Grrrr!! Never mind I do a lot of my imaging from Astro camps as too LP at home. even at camp I use a camping observatory as I got used to the luxury of an Obsy, it is great as a wind shield and for frost protection if I camp in the winter months. Carole
  31. 1 point
    You have to take something for them to put it in.
  32. 1 point
    Go to a shop that sell marine fish about 20p a lt.
  33. 1 point
    You're right, I always wondered why Skywatcher don't appear to have produced a solid 8 inch goto. When I was searching, I did find an Orion one, the N 203/1200 SkyQuest XT8 IntelliScope. https://www.astroshop.eu/telescopes/orion-dobson-telescope-n-203-1200-skyquest-xt8-intelliscope-dob/p,33297 (apologies for not posting an Flo link, they don't seem to do Orion scopes.) At £630 including shipping to the UK it's quite a bit cheaper than the Skywatcher 200 flextube goto, but it is a "push to" instead, which is better in some respects IMHO. The Az and Alt sensors enable the same object finding, but you push it to the indicated angles instead of the motors doing it and there is no tracking, so it will not follow an object. I found that Retro fitting goto to a Dobsonian is expensive and not straightforward. Each mount is quite specific with non-standard bearings. I therefore went for a simple DIY azimuth scale on the base and a cheapo clone of a magnetic "wixey" electronic angle gauge. Costing only a few pounds these are so simple to attach and use. Once calibrated on a horizontal surface, they just attach to the OTA near the top and give a precise alt angle of whatever it's pointing at. I then just use an android tablet (or phone) running a free stellarium type app to search for an object and then point the Dob in the expected location. It may be less accurate than an electronic goto and there's no tracking, but it gets me within a degree or so, and the additional "brainpower" steps of transferring the angles is more satisfying somehow.
  34. 1 point
    Major ENVY of your drawing skills. Keep 'em coming.
  35. 1 point
    Someone wiser than me will need to jump in on that. The avi does degrade quicker pushing the wavelets but possible it came out of as3 crispier. Also possible seeing changed or slight wind gust inside of 10 minutes all were captured.
  36. 1 point
    The Tak FC-100's are quite safe to use with a Herschel Wedge - I'm sure you have seen the pics of my setup with my Tak FC-100DL ? I can assure you that I'm not going to risk my eye or my scope - it works 100% safely and extremely well. You might get lucky and pick up a pre-owned Tak FC-100 but you may need a lot of patience
  37. 1 point
    Cracking images....you have nailed every thing,focus,processing and great seeing by the looks of it.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks very much for the reply, just to be clear it will also help with a one shot colour camera?
  39. 1 point
    a couple of images of mine using the FS60CB/Extender combo at f10 with a Canon 40D (modified)...
  40. 1 point
    I remember reading it was out of our line of sight. Amazing the effort they took retasking every available satellite to image such an unbelievable incident. The results were eye opening to say the least.
  41. 1 point
    I see no change in focus at all with my TS max field coma corrector and Baader LRGB filters. You tend to get lateral chromatic aberration with cheap two element coma correctors but only noticeable on larger chips. However, I dont think that Fieldsy is using a coma corrector as his sensor is a imx178 thats very small.
  42. 1 point
    Thanks Helen. Yes I'm sure the mount and tripod are lovely too, I just don't have space for them until we move into a bigger house! As an update, I've just caught the Double Double which split very easily at x140 and would have done so at lower mag too
  43. 1 point
    One option is to join a local astronomy club, many (like mine) have equipment for members to borrow free of charge. This can save you many times the cost of membership and prevent buying unsuitable kit. If the club’s website doesn’t say if kit is available, all will have a simple method to ask. My own club has done this many times and saved folk a fortune in expensive mistakes. They can borrow lightweight kit, low tech or high tech etc etc. Ed.
  44. 1 point
    Happy Bithday Peter. You don't look a day under 90.
  45. 1 point
    I can't say that it's finished but here's 29 hours and 31min of LRGB on the NGC3718. I have 7 hours of Ha data that I didn't manage to add because I felt I was losing more than gaining with it. I'm sure that at some point I'll manage to add it but for now I'll just leave it to LRGB. Hope you like it. Emil
  46. 1 point
    Messier 57 (the Ring Nebula) should look excellent with that aperture. You might be able to pick out the central star of the planetary nebula which is magnitude 15 or so. Under dark skies M51 (whirlpool galaxy) will show it's spiral structure clearly - no averted vision required with 20 inches of aperture !
  47. 1 point
    Yes Portable Runs a EQ mount for a week at astrofests Mine has dual 12V outlets, as well as dual USB Also have extension 3port 12V adaptor Runs guiding scope and ZWO camera Attached pic taken at recent club solar viewing day John
  48. 1 point
    im board so put together a AR2738 line up for something to do, its a hard old life isnt it . all taken with starwave 102 f11, quark chromosphere, asi120mc. ta for looking. clear skys. charl.
  49. 1 point
    Probably not the wisest decision ever made, with the lack of clear nights, gusty wind and random snow showers... but I thought the smaller tube length would make the rig less of a sail in the open garden and I do like a bit of detail on the fuzzies. The following are taken with an ATIK 414ex mono, EFW2 on a belt driven HEQ5. Details are..... Crab Nebula .... Ha O3 S2 15x1 min subs each M82 ( LRGB ) 10x 5mins each .......wanted to get more of the red filamentary stuff circling the core...... always a chance as its circumpolar Thors Helmet... Ha-O3 Bi Colour.... 3x 5 and 2 x 5 mins subs..... I'm amazed I got it. Only the faintest smear on the laptop when I was setting up. NGC3628 (Hamburger galaxy) RGB 5 x 5mins each. DSS stacked then a bit of cropping and stretching in PS. So, a 6" SCT at F10 can be used on DSO's.... Clear, calm skies everone. Sean.
  50. 0 points
    There's actually a recognised definition of a "temporary building" in the interpretation of UK planning law. Which is, a building that exists for no more than twenty-eight days. Apparently the courts have decided that the fact that it has no proper foundations and stuff like that is irrelevant. Even something like a marquee needs PP if it is to remain for more than 28 days. James
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