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Showing content with the highest reputation on 30/04/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    First solar session result from last Sunday. The video is a series of 5 second AVIs, recorded every 30s, over a period of 17 minutes. I only used 16 of the 34 frames due to cloud and/or poor seeing. Manually aligned and processed in PS, and now noticing now that my alignment drifted off a bit. Still it is nice to see solar changes in such a short space of time. Thanks Adam Solar-Timelapse-.mp4
  2. 5 points
    Second time I undertake this kind of endeavour. Many many movies were shot. Over 300Gb of data. Stitching was done by hand. in adobe Photoshop. Equipment used: CFF 300f//20 cassegrain ASI174MM with Astronomik proplanet807 processing using Autostakkert, lynkeos and adobe photoshop. https://astrob.in/400728/0/ Make sure to check out at full res. enjoy. Wouter.
  3. 4 points
    Scope arrived yesterday lunch, after unpacking and checking I decided to check the collimation. Miles out so I did a complete recollimation using a Barlowed Laser and set up the NEQ6 for a star test if the weather cleared! It cleared at 9pm and a quick star test proved the collimation was good! I observed a few early targets but wanted to try the DSLR out. It focused straight away with a new Bahtinov mask, I aim to get a Baader Mk3 CC soon but hardly any Coma shows on the 2 images I took. Both NEQ6 SW 150PDS Canon 1000dm APT and PHS 1.2 Very pleased with the results as these are only 10 x 180 s dithered so no Darks, Flats etc. I might add the SW WiFi refused to work half way through so back to the handset! Comments welcome Ron
  4. 3 points
    I'm sure you'll be happy with whatever you decide at this end of the market. Size and weight have become more important issues for me, so I sold my Delos and now have mainly DeLites - apart from the slightly ridiculous name, and some might prefer a wider fov, they are simply exceptional. But with such slim margins between the best brands, personal preferences like comfort and adjustable eye relief can become deciding factors.
  5. 3 points
    We had clear skies last Saturday in Spain, so there was the time to shoot something. Markarian Chain 34x300s subs, taken with the SW130PDS (Moonlite Focuser)+ AZEQ5 + QHY168C + Optolong L-Pro + Lots of DIY things. Cheers Mario.
  6. 2 points
    Hi, here is last nights shot at M101. This is a luminance run only and was to test to see if the central Halo was still there, and it is, grrrr. I have a sneaky suspicion it is coming from the edge of the secondary mirror. I have pretty much painted everything else matt black, so far. Anyway, Here is the Luminance run. Subs: 10x 300sec, 5x 420sec Processed in Pixinsight. BIAS, DARKS and FLATS applied. Cheers Paul
  7. 2 points
    No it wasn't me. Couldn't figure out how to get the tin opener engaged with the Volvo's roof.
  8. 2 points
    Personally I find Skysafari to be the best phone app out there, infact on of the best resources there is. There is a free version to get you started, but the Plus version has nice additional objects and features. Note that they do fairly regular 50% discount offers which are worth waiting for.
  9. 2 points
    As if astronomy wasnt expensive enough already. Now you have to pay for drinks and pizza?. I need to give myself a pay raise.
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Redcat arrived yesterday. Feared the worst with the weather changing but very amazed that the sky suddenly cleared at 1am. Set everything up in record time and managed to get 4 subs before clouded out again. Not often you get first light on day one of ownership though. Sadly no time to run through the rest of the filters. Elephants Trunk, 4 x 10m, Baader Ha filter with Atik One. Stacked in DSS and adjusted the levels a bit. Andy
  12. 1 point
    I've seen a few threads where people are struggling to setup the platesolving routine in Astrophotography Tool. Though people do try to offer advice on the forum, if your not IT savvy then it can be a struggle. I'm no computer guru but I'm comfortable enough to be able to navigate my way around Windows. I've recently invested in a new laptop and have installed all my astro imaging stuff onto that so while its still fresh on my mind, I've decided to do a tutorial with step by step instructions of how to setup platesolving in APT. This is quite a long post but I've added lots of screenshots to try and make it easy for the user to follow. Astrophotography Tool is a brilliant free program that can control your entire imaging session. It can control your camera, image plans, control the mount, control focus, filterwheels etc. More information and downloads can be found here: https://ideiki.com/astro/Default.aspx For this tutorial I have uninstalled all the previous software and files I've used in the past so its a fresh install from scratch again. Step 1. Open APT. On the right hand side, go to the tools tab. In here we will find the object calculator below the camera tab. In here we are going to setup the profile of your scope. Basically, you need to enter the focal length of your scope. When APT connects to your camera, it will auto detect the pixel size and sensor size and use this information along with your scope focal length to determine the field of view of the image you are trying to platesolve. Click on the button with 3 dots and select the Profile tab. Add a new Profile. Name it whatever you want. For me, I use the name of my scope, a William Optics GT71 and I input its focal length of 420mm. This is the scopes native focal length. If you are using a flattener/reducer, then you would need to put in the equivalent focal length if using a reducer. Example, I own two flatteners. One is the Hotech SCA flattener. This doesnt reduce the focal length so my first profile with the native focal length is ok. If I am using my WO Flat6A II flattener, this reduces the focal length by 0.8 effectively makng the focal length 336mm and increasing the field of view(FOV). So I add both profiles. You may only work with one focal length or you may have an array of scopes, flatteners and focal lenghts. Now is the time to put them into their relevant profiles. Step 2. With the correct focal lengths saved in their profiles, now we are going to download the add-ons and catalogues needed for platesolving. Highlight the Gear tab. Click on Point Craft. You could also take a moment to read the short summary by hovering the cursor over the Point Craft button. At the bottom of the Point Craft box is the setting tab. Clicking Setting opens up the box where we need to enter the directory paths to the add-ons. Simply put, APT doesnt platesolve the the image itself, it 'asks' another program to do this. The add-on programs in question are Plate Solve 2 (PS2) and All Sky Plate Solver (ASPS). In the settings box are the links to the software, also free, and the catalogues they use to platesolve your image. Internet connection is required for the next part. If your PC or laptop lives in an observatory with no access to the internet, or you simply refuse to let it connect to the internet for fear of windows updates, you could use another PC to download onto a USB stick and then transfer to your imaging PC. Lets start with Plate Solve 2. Click on the Download PlateSolve 2 button. This will open your browser and direct you to the Planewave website where we will download PS2 and the catalogues. Scroll down the page to PS2 and download PS2, APM catalogue and the UCAC3 catalogue. Save the files to a memorable location. If, like me you use Firefox, downloads are saved to the Downloads folder. We now need to put the catalogues somewhere where they will be easy to find later. I actually choose to put all the platesolving software and catalogues into the same folder where APT stores its images. So I create a new folder and call it PlateSolve 2.28 in the APT_Images folder on my C drive. You can of course save to anywhere but the key is to remember where! Your UCACS3 catalogue will be in a zipped folder. You will need to extract the files. Right click, and extract to your chosen folder. In my case, the new PlateSolve 2.28 folder in APT_Images. This should create a new subfolder populated with UC3 files as below. This is the main directory I use with PS2 so you could skip the APM catalogue, though I personally choose to install it anyway. Navigate back to your downloads location and open the APM Catalogue installer. Follow the intial prompts and when you get to the Select Destination Location window, you could let it install at its own location, or like me, you could save to the same folder as the UCACS3 directory. The choice is yours, just remember all these locations! If you've followed my example, your single platesolving folder should have 2 directories now installed. For the rest of the tutorial, I'm going to assume you've followed my lead and installed everything to the one folder. Now, go back to your downloads location, right click the PlateSolve2.28 zipped file and extract it to the platesolving folder. In hindsight, I've possibly made a confusing error here as I've called my platesolving folder the same as the new sub folder containing PS2! No matter, as it will still work! Step3. Configuring the Plate Solve 2 add-on. Open the subfolder we have just extracted containing the PS2 application and double click on the icon. Click on File and then Configure Catalogue Directories. The next window will show the status for both directories as not found. Click on each of these and navigate to the platesolving folder and select the relevant directory folder for each. The status for both should now read OK. Now go to edit parameters. Make sure the UCACS3 directory is selected. The rest of the default settings can work ok but I have had issues with these. I found a tip on another forum somewhere and it was recommended to change the minimum and maximum star sizes. I double each value. 12 for max star size and 6 for minimum star size. The rest of the settings dont need altering. You can enter your location settings at the bottom but i dont think this matters. Now, lets see if it works! As you can see from above, I had already tried to solve an image of the Iris Nebula i took last year. It failed initially so I had to adjust the settings. It failed because the FOV is set too wide. For the Iris Nebula, I used a 600D on a 200p scope at 1000mm focal length. We change these to 1.28° x 0.85° and voila! You dont need to worry about testing it like I have above. I only done it to make sure it was working. You also dont need to worry about inputing the FOV as APT will use the profiles we have set up in Step 1 and provide PS2 with the correct FOV information. Close the application and navigate back to the Point Craft settings in APT. Click on the tab beside the PlateSolve2 path and navigate to your platesolve folder with both APM and UCACS3 directories and also the PS2 application folder. See the mistake I made by calling the platesolve folder the same as the PS2 folder. Apologies if this is confusing! Make sure you click on the actual PS2 application folder. Your directory path for PS2 is now set. Step 4. Setting up the All Sky Plate Solver. Click on the tab that says Download ASPS. This will open up your browser again and take you to the ASPS webpage. Scroll down the page to the download link and run the installer. Before you start installing ASPS, close APT as it will fail to install if its open. As with PS2, it asks to select the destination folder. Again, I choose my single confusingly named platesolve folder! Finish the installation and launch the ASPS application at the end. Go and make a cup of tea or coffee while ASPS installs the Astrometry library. When its finished downloading the below window pops up. Click Yes. The next bit is similar to the profiles section in APT except you need to know your cameras pixel size and sensor width. Start with your shortest focal length and input your camera pixel size and also the sensor width, in either number of pixels or physical dimension of the sensor. Use an internet search to find this information if you need to. Once you enter the information the application will highlight what indexes it needs to install based upon your FOV. Install the highlighted indexes. If you have only one scope or FOV then you would be done. If like me you work with another focal length, then enter this into the box and another index or indexes may become highlighted. Install these also. If you have different cameras with different pixel and chip sizes, you would need to do the same for these. For all your optical and camera configurations, install all the highlighted indexes. Click Done when finsished. Now lets do a test. I loaded an image i took a few weeks ago of M81. The application read the FITS header and asked to confirm my focal length. 30 odd seconds later and we have a result! Close the application and open up APT again. As we did with PS2, navigate back to the Point Craft settings window, click the button beside the ASPS path and navigate to the platesolve folder where the ASPS application is saved. ***If for some reason the PS2 path is empty, repeat the above for this and navigate back to where the application is saved. Click OK and we should now be all set for some testing in APT! Step 5. Hoping it all works! Lets start with loading up an image in APT from the Img tab. I'm doing this during the day or if you are actually imaging at the moment you could use a picture you have just taken. Make sure you have selected the correct focal length profile in the Tools tab. Go to Gear and press Point Craft. In the top section there are 2 options we are going to look at. Solve and Blind. Both produce the same result but they have a different method of working. Lets start with Solve. This uses PS2 to platesolve. It is typically faster than Blind but it does require you to input the approximate position of the image. In my example, I know its of the M81/M82 area. Click Objects at the top and scroll or search for M81. Or perhaps your looking for a star, so look under the stars tab. When you select your target it will populate the top boxes with the approximate position of the target we are looking for. Now click Solve with fingers crossed... Success! It solved in 7 seconds! The image centre is displayed in the centre of the window. Now, the clever bit and the real reason we want to plate solve. Lets say you had set your mount up in the home position and polar aligned. You connect to the mount via Cartes du Ciel (EQMod) and issue a command to slew to M81. Make sure you also connect to the mount in APT by selecting Connect Scope. You take a short image but in all likelyhood the result doesnt show M81 in the FOV. Well, no problem! Follow the above procedure, select M81 in the objects tab to populate the approx position and hit Solve. When the result comes in, hit Sync and if you watch the EQMod box the scope coords should change to match the same coords of the image you have just solved! Magic! Just issue another command to slew to M81 and the next image should have it in the FOV! If not repeat the process until you are happy with the pointing of your scope. Before we finish, lets not forget about the Blind function. This uses the ASPS application. Unlike Solve above, Blind doesnt need you to input the approximate position of the image prior to solving. Just load or take an image and hit Blind. It does take a little bit longer but usually gets a result withing a minute or so. If using it in the field, repeat the above, Blind, Sync, and repeat until you are happy you are on target. Just to point out, you need to start EQMod with the scope in the home position. If you manually move the mount to somewhere near your target and then start EQMod, platesolving will still work on the image but EQMod wont Sync the results if they are too far away from where it thinks the scope is pointing. Always start EQMod/Cartes du Ciel first and then issue a Goto command to your prefered target. As long as your in the viscinity with your solved image, it should Sync the mount. No more star alignments! I hope people will find this tutorial useful. Hopefully the length of this post doesnt put people off, its really a lot quicker to set up than it has took me to compile this! If you spot any mistakes, anything left out or a better way of doing things then let me know! David
  13. 1 point
    Hi everyone, I'm very pleased to join you! My name is Theodor , i live in Athens and i do astrophotography since 2014. My observatory is at my village in Messinia with relatively dark sky (bortle 4). Because of the birth of my son its not easy as before to travel for my hobby. So my next goal-challenge is to upgrade my setup and go on with astrophotography in my white zone Athens... I wish you all Clear skies!!
  14. 1 point
    Hi guys i'm newbie here from san francisco. Hope to learn a lot of things from you guys.
  15. 1 point
    Hi all. This was as it turned out way too ambitious for my location. I had to shoot directly over my house and into light pollution from a public light. It is exceptionally feint and really needs at least double the data, but i felt it worth posting as it's not a common target on this site. Located in the constellation of Cepheus this molecular cloud is rated as 5 and 6/6 in Lynds bright nebula catalog with 6 being the most feint. It's a tiny part of much larger complex. Taken over two nights in March, this is 8.3 hrs in 180 second subs. Takahashi Epsilon 130 with an Asi 071 pro mounted on an Az Eq6 Stacked in APP Processed in APP, PI and PS. Richard.
  16. 1 point
    Well I’ve ordered the 17.5 Morpheus so I’m probably going to order the 10mm Pentax. Thinking I’ll get the best of both ?. I’ll let you all know how it turns out and maybe do a first light review. Steve
  17. 1 point
    Around here they don't put distances on signposts. Just how many years you'll have gone back in time when you get there. James
  18. 1 point
    Is your sky steady enough, often enough, for your imaging to actually attain the theoretical tracking accuracy that either of these mounts say they can give?
  19. 1 point
    So the Astrofilm arrived today and I've made the solar filter using the main tube cap. Its not tightly stressed so should be good. I've sandwiched the film between two pieces of card with holes cut out a little larger that the hole in the cap. I then stuck this sandwich inside the dust cap. Should be well protected as I have the dust cap for the hole. Will check film prior to first use and have made a card to protect the cap as advised. Ignore the tape, its a reminder for me so I don't accidentally damage the film when taking g the cap off? Looking forward to next sunny day and thanks for all the advice ?
  20. 1 point
    Network! A step closer, the wiring in of the CAT6 SWA network cable. It seems a long time since I was laying this underground, but now : 1Gbps connection straight to the broadband hub! So this is the official 'first post' from the observatory itself!
  21. 1 point
    Why does it take so long? Surely if a service is being offered then the parts are there on the shelf, ready to go? I stripped, cleaned and rebuilt my old EQ5 in a day and it was my first time taking one apart? Surely a professional could do it eyes closed? Say, a day to strip and clean, a day to rebuild and a day to tune? Does that sound reasonable? But 6 months?!! I considered the service myself but I seen threads like this and it put me off.
  22. 1 point
    Nice one. Maybe a a tweak to black point - I have feel that you pushed it too far (to black background and possibly some clipping there), and a tweak to color balance could improve things further?
  23. 1 point
    Very nicely captured.
  24. 1 point
    Another interesting animation with the shadow of Europa marking the surface of Jupiter and Io coming out behind the planet. Unfortunately the seeing was not as good as in the previous Gif, even so a lot of details are visible. April, 19-2019; 06:16 to 06:47 UT 13 JPG pictures
  25. 1 point
    Nicely captured, some decent detail visible there.
  26. 1 point
    Pressure switch which I plan to use to check the internal pressure in my all sky camera casing. I'm using a slightly positive pressure of a few inches of water to stop ingress of moisture in the event of a leak. The internal air being desiccated to prevent condensation when the astro camera is cooled to -20°C.
  27. 1 point
    Very nice indeed. Lovely colour. Good resolution and spot on tracking by the looks of it.
  28. 1 point
    The backlash issue I had with my EQ8 was DEC only, The issue manifested its self when I tried to calibrate the guiding, the software struggled to adjust the mount take up the backlash., calibration would often fail. When calibration worked, guiding was smooth. I was not for tinkering with the mechanics on a 2.5k mount. Mark
  29. 1 point
    As you probably know, this mount is no longer made, nor is its successor, the William Optics EZTouch, which I have. There is a thread here: The EZTouch is superb with my 4-inch Tak refractor and performs well with the Celestron 9.25, but it's at its limit. They can be picked up on the used market. from time to time. 'Out of the blue into the black'
  30. 1 point
    Great viewing this evening. I was viewing Arcturus earlier on but at around 21.45hrs, I scanned slightly east and over to the Corona Borealis to look in on Alphekka as it was shinning bright, I also wanted to spend some time looking at Nusakan and the other stars in the group as there's a few pulsating, variable and double stars. I sat viewing for a few minutes when something bright shot speedily across my sight (think this was possibly NORAD 28649, Cartosat-1 looking on Stellarium). I decided to view Corona Borealis on the widest angle eyepiece I currently have (62 degree) as I am still quite new to astronomy and learning what equipment I might need as I go, but I wanted to see what else may pop into sight. I wasn't disappointed as in a very short time it seamed to turn into a shooting gallery. Again, looking at Stellarium, I believe some were artificial satellites etc, but there was one or two which I couldn't identify. They weren't planes crossing my view as I'm familiar with the flight paths near me, so I think they may have been the odd comet etc. Anyway, to cut a story short, I can't explain how great and awe inspiring it is to just sit down patiently, relax, focus my scope on a patch of sky and watch these wondrous and amazing sights unfold before my eyes. What a beautiful hobby to have ?
  31. 1 point
    Hi, LR, and welcome to SGL. Enjoy the journey.
  32. 1 point
    The biggest problem I have with my garden pier is snails crawling up it, tried copper tape which is supposed to deter them but obviously nobody told them Dave
  33. 1 point
    Hi and a very warm welcome to the Lounge Steve
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Got these 2 shots last night from the garden. No proper setup yet so they're made up of around 200ish 2.5second subs each so I'll take what I can from it! All done on my mighty setup of: Nikon D750, Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 lens. M13: M81 + M82: Leo Triplet: Been considering building a barn-door mount to see what results that may yield; nothing crazy I'd have thought but would be fun to do I think.
  37. 1 point
    Another on the Hercules mount and Berlebach tripod.
  38. 1 point
    I've often wondered how my post processing skills have changed over the years, so I decided to find out by extracting some data which I acquired c2.5 years ago and performing a reprocess on M33. The LRGB image with an Ha blend into the red channel represents just over 15 hours and was taken with my ED80 on my NEQ6. (If you want to have a look at my original result from 2.5 years ago have a look in my album Deep Sky II). Alan LIGHTS: L:15, R:9, G:10, B: 12 x 600s; H: 15 x 1800s. DARKS:30; BIAS:100; FLATS:40 all at -20C.
  39. 1 point
    Some months back I asked on here how to create a colour moon. Well, months later and I'm finally getting it ? This was processed in Photoshop and its a 6 panel mosaic captured in SharpCap Pro with an Altair GpCam2 290c and Skywatcher 130P AZ GOTO
  40. 1 point
    Here it is, Moon overexposed to show Saturn better. C9.25 and DMK camera. Seeing was terrible too. Saturndis.mp4
  41. 1 point
    Glad to you have you on SGL, Glen
  42. 1 point
    @HenryFitz people are trying to help you, but it would be very helpful if you would give some more information. Short one line answers are not really enough if you expect useful information in return. Useful info includes but is not limited to: What is your budget? Have you used a scope before? Will your scope be setup and taken down each time? Do you need to carry it any distance to set it up? Where will you store it? What are you skies like in terms of light pollution? Where will you observe, near houses or in rural setting? Can you find you way around the sky without assistance? What sort of targets do you wish to see? Planets and deep sky astronomy have different requirements. Do you have any interest in Astrophotography or will you stick to visual observing? Please give some more info then you will get more useful answers. Thanks, Stu
  43. 1 point
    Another very. good zoom to consider is the TS-Optics Premium Zoom Eyepiece 7.2 mm to 21.5 mm. The same as the Lunt zoom but a much better price. Similar to the Baader in performance.
  44. 1 point
    Posting in this forum after too long! One of the first attempts at taking photos of the moon. All photos taken using skywatcher 90mm refractor with eq2 mount, Nikon DSLR and 2x Barlow here and there. No exposure. Basic editing in cellphone. Thank you! Suggestions highly appreciated!
  45. 1 point
    I do use the built-in red filter coming with stellarium and sky safari too. But I find that that is not sufficient for maintaining eye dark adaptation. In addition the screen still emits bright light all over (black pixel too). This additional cover is used in combination and cuts off all that unwanted light.
  46. 1 point
    The challenge from the Neils Bhor Institute in Copenhagen proposed that noise in Ligo's two detectors correlated. It was suggested that the time delay associated with the correlations matched the time it would take a gravitational wave to travel between the two detectors. Creswell then reasoned that the results detected may ( stress on may ) be correlated by noise. The LIGO team have replied to the suggestion by saying the correlation claimed by Creswell and his team are not present in the data itself but rather is induced by the methodology used by Creswell's team in their analysis. I guess subsequent detection events will give clarity but at the moment the LIGO team are standing by their results. "the formation of a wave requires a medium, composed of matter yet gravitational waves propagate in vacuum of celestial space that is void of matter." Wave formation does not require matter, perhaps the most obvious example being electromagnetic radiation (em) . We know that em waves propagate by the perturbation of the electrical and magnetic field (quantum field theory). I'm certainly no expert on the nature of gravity waves but I guess it is not improbable that what is being proposed is that a massive gravity disturbance causes a perturbation in space time with subsequent propagation in similar wave form. Any perturbation of space-time due to the Earth's influence is simply too small to show its fingerprint on any subsequent gravitation wave originating from the massively energetic events which the LIGO team are detecting. I guess it would be like trying to detect the signature ripple caused by the filp of a fish's fin during a tsunami event . Which goes to prove , fishing is fraught with danger Jim
  47. 1 point
    Try not to overthink the process too much... So long as the mount is levelled, the polar scope is aligned (centred in the housing) and your time, date and location is correct in the app you are good to go. You need to rotate your DEC axis so you can see through the polar scope, then to make it a little easier rotate the RA axis so 12:00 is at the top of the polar scope. You can get this by aligning Polaris onto the cross hairs in the centre of the scope then using the altitude bolts, place Polaris directly above centre where 12 would be then, then rotate RA until 12 is sitting on top of Polaris. Once this is done, look at your app and using the altitude and azimuth bolts place the star in the polar scope in the same position to match the app, then you're done. You can use the setting circles (I never have), but it is quite convoluted in my opinion...However, it would be a good skill to learn in case you are out with no signal and cannot use the app. But the above should get you going, this was my method until I started using Sharpcap PRO to polar align - GAME CHANGER Hope this makes sense? Good Luck Rob
  48. 1 point
    These two were taken with a 50mm 1.8 lens on an unmodded Pentax K-S1 camera and an old Manfrotto tripod. I shot about 1300x4" lights for Andromeda and 1100x4" for Orion. About 30-40 darks and flats each. Stacked them in DSS and processed with Startools. Any criticism is welcome!
  49. 1 point
    First real opportunity I've had in ages to do any imaging or astronomy of any kind, and decided (perhaps foolishly you might think) to try a stack. My last attempt blew up registax, but with the help of PIPP (and some fairly massive cropping of each image image in PIPP), registax didn't expire in a heap of bit dust, and completed the processing. 22 images, Canon 60d, Sigma 150-600, each image, 1/30s, ISO250 f/14 at 600mm.
  50. 1 point
    Testing it out with the WO EZTouch, loaded with either the Tak FS102 or the C9.25. Quality of the tripod's construction, especially the woodwork, is excellent. Looking forward to seeing how it works under the stars...
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