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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    *** SOLD *** In good used condition, no issues, with caps and box. £70 posted to UK, PayPal friends accepted. Thanks for looking.
  2. 1 point
    The sky was clear, so I thought I'd get the little scope out and have a skeg at the sky. I knew that Mars was out there somewhere and having confirmed its location with Skyview I got a look at it. At 44x its just an orange star. I switched to the 4mm from my daughter's scope (100x) but its a terrible optic. It can stay in the bag. I then turned to Orion, always a favourite. I got the Trapezium, 3 stars out of 4. Again I tried the 4mm; just a blur. I noticed Sirius 'rising' above the housetops and got a quick look in before turning to Aldebaran in Taurus, a star that presents itself very similar to mars! It was soon time to go indoors, plus my hands were now getting very cold (it seemed mild when I came out) and I got a fuzzy view of M31. Tried to focus with the 4mm, just not happening. But at 44x it was like seeing an old friend. Still fuzzy and grey but its the knowledge of what you are looking at. Never gets old. Before wrapping up I tried to find that Kemble object near Cassiopeia. I think I got it in binos, tho the stars all looked white. No chance with the scope, its just too far overhead. Plus my fingers were about to drop off and the kids needed seeing to. Overall a good night out!
  3. 1 point
    So tonight started out with the intention of attempting to capture the Crab. Got everything set up and the battery died in the camera. Observing it is then... I decided to still pursue the Crab visually, any excuse to get viewing time with the Esprit. I used my 15mm Nagler to give me 36 x magnification plus the Televue \ Astronomik UHC Nebustar filter. It took me a while to figure out the location of the Crab in the finderscope, at 9x50 in theory it should have been viewable in the finder but no luck. So I trained the finder on the place where it should be and started tracking. It took me a long time to barely glimpse the faintest of a smudge. I was hoping to see at least a clearly defined shape (not expecting any detail nternal structure) but my skies would not permit anything like any detail. I genuinely believe the slightest bit of light pollution can cause havoc with this object. My skies are not the best and getting worse sadly. To compare, I then trained the scope on the Blinking Nebula and found it immediately. Now the Blinking Nebula is magnitude 10 but with a more concentrated surface brightness whereas the Crab is magnitude 8.4 but the light is spread over a wider area. The Blinking Nebula lived up to its name. Flashed bright and dull using averted vision but showed a nice disk size once I had put in an 8mm Radian to take the mag up to 68x . To be honest I was hoping for more but maybe I should be thankful for a glimpse of the Crab under my light polluted skies. Thanks for looking. Jarvo
  4. 1 point
    I haven't got that far into my astrophotography journey just yet but thankyou I'll make a mental note. If astrophotography is a 1000 page booklet then I am still running my finger along the spine
  5. 1 point
    for me every now and then with my qhy5IIm when opening the control panel all is unreadable (garbled)I close then re-open must be my laptop's graphics card but I live with it
  6. 1 point
    Thanks guys. I guessed as much that you cant control it from a PC. I have an IR remote already, so I can at least use it for remote shooting. It has live view as well, so at least thats something. Typical the model I buy doesnt have this feature !
  7. 1 point
    Yes, stick with what works, if it ain’t broke.........you know the rest.. I was just having nothing but issues with win 10 and USB issues and Ascom issues, I hate win 10 with a passion, so want back to win 7 and solved many issues but not all, so moved to Linux and never looked back Also just got Astro Pixel Processor software for Linux so can do all processing on there too..
  8. 1 point
    The FPC extension arrived this morning and after some testing seems to work brilliantly. Opened the camera up, removed the sensor assembly and used a makeshift objective in front of the bare sensor. I was able to shoot from 1/4000 to 30 seconds just fine with only the electronic shutter and the pictures are free from any artefacts of any kind. Noise doesn’t appear to have increased and I can’t see any additional patterns of any kind on dark or bias frames. Good result and I can move on to getting the sensor assembly inside the sealed enclosure and the TEC mounted. Over the course of last week more parts arrived. The TSL2591 and VEML6075 light sensors. Tested them both and while the TSL2591 might work through acrylic, the VEML6075 definitely won’t. Looking at the datasheet, it might be possible to use 1mm or thinner PTFE as the UV coefficients for some thicknesses are given. Got a TSL235R light to frequency converter as I’d like to incorporate a sky quality sensor. Don’t have a professional one to calibrate against, but I’ve read that the Dark Sky Pro app for the iPhone is rather good so will be borrowing a phone and calibrate this way. If I’m implementing a rain and cloud sensor, I want to get notifications on my phone and while I could do that via local network, I really like the idea of having a GSM module hooked up to the Arduino for text notifications. I like the idea so much that I’ll be running the Arduino, cloud/rain sensors and GSM module off a DIY UPS. For this I’ll be using two 18650 batteries in parallel with a TP4056 charging/protection module and some boost converters for the required 12V (Arduino) and 5V (sensors and GSM module). Will cover the full circuit later on. The Arduino still needs to arrive but I’ll be using the Mega 2560 Pro Embedded board rather than use the existing Mega. Reason behind this is the Pro is about half the size with the same number of IO and features. I’ll need every bit of extra space I can get as I don’t know how big the camera enclosure might get. I’ll try not making the same mistake as last time and minimize component count and get rid of anything taking up space unnecessarily. The 1TB hard drive will go as I can use a micro SD card of a smaller capacity with the mini PC. I can afford to use a smaller capacity and still store weeks of video as I’ve now got a 5MB 12bit image compared to 17.5MB for the 16bit Opticstar. Also, the VB image workflow can now be further improved due to full control and automation of exposure duration. The idea is that the app will use several processes to manipulate each image, resulting in a smaller image size. Then when the video for each day is assembled, there is no reason to keep the images.
  9. 1 point
    Good luck with the project JOC. Following with interest. As others have said - be sure to post loads of pictures ? Kev
  10. 1 point
    If that's a quicky I'd love to see a "not as quick" result!!!
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