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Showing content with the highest reputation on 30/08/18 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Set up last night, waiting for dark, but clouds arrived and spoiled the fun. So at 5.15 this morning when a I saw a waning gibbous Moon, high to the west of south, I quickly set up the Bresser Dob (from its outside Dobhouse) to grab some action at last. With the Moon being high, I was able to view it safely, unlike last time when the Dob was perched precariously on a small garden table. The initial view (x127/0.54deg) showed splendid clarity and detail, especially along the terminator. Better than I've seen in smaller apertures, perhaps. And since it was not very dark, there was little glare (Moon filter had little effect), although detail off-terminator was of course less pronounced. This wider view also gave an occasional border of wispy, misty cloud sweeping rapidly by to add mood to the spectacle. Next, the TV Radian 6mm (x212/0.28deg), with which I concentrated on Plato, hoping to see the pits in its floor for the first time, and Bingo, a few distinct specks popped out in AV. What a delight! Up to x254, and the image was moving a bit too fast, so then down to x190 at which the view was sharper, revealing 3 or 4 of the larger pits quite clearly. After half an hour, the sky was lightening, so I finished this very brief, unplanned, yet rewarding session. Doug.
  2. 8 points
    I felt that my other version was not the best and after getting my Photometric Colour Calibration working I have decided to do a reprocess. http://www.pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/167991880/original.jpg Image details Telescope: William Optics FLT132 Guide Scope: QHY OAG Camera: QHY9 Mono @ -20c Filter Wheel: QHY 7 position Ultra Slim Filters: QHY 36mm unmounted L R G B Guide Camera: QHY5L-II Mount: AZ-EQ6 Mount Control: EQASCOM Focusing: SharpSky Pro and Sequence Generator Pro 3 (automated) Bahtinov Mask: Yes (initial focus) Capture Software: Sequence Generator Pro 3 Guiding Software: PHD2 Calibration and Stacking Software: PixInsight Processing Software: PixInsight Number and Type of Data Frames: L=30X10 min, R=6x7 min, G=6x7 min, B=6x7 min Ha= x , SII= x , OIII= x . Binning: 1x1 Total Image Time: 426 minutes Location: Lockleys Observatory B, Tanunda, Sth Australia Light Box by Exfso Anyway, thanks for taking another look. Cheers and Clears!
  3. 6 points
    A partial LRGB view of LBN468, a dark nebula in Cepheus. The image represents just over 12 hours integration time and was taken with my Esprit 150. In addition to being very dim, this object also has quite a few blue stars that shine within the redish/brown dust clouds. Since I've previously found that stars with different colours to the surrounding dust generally means challenging processing should be expected, I decided to experiment with the program Straton which enables the star field to be separated from the dust, allowing the stars to be processed separately from the rest of the image. By the way, you don't often see close up views of this object, I selected it mainly for mount performance testing, rather than its aesthetics - I've recently acquired various items of new equipment and I wanted see how these impacted on my unguided mount performance. Alan LIGHTS: L:34, R:18, G:12, B:9 x 600s; DARKS:30, BIAS:100, FLATS:40 all at -20C.
  4. 5 points
    I have been guilty of telling some one i would buy an item, then taking a reality check and realising i either dont need item, or dont have room for item or cant really afford item and have messaged back with a change of mind
  5. 4 points
    Craters, craters everywhere (especially that Northwest quadrant) It's a bit blown on the east side I think, but generally speaking, I'm happy with this. Would love to order myself RGB filters now and take it a step further EXIF: Mount: SW SA Imaging scope: SW ST80 Imaging camera: ZWO ASI 120mm Mono Capture Sofware: Sharpcap 3,1 Editing Software: LightRoom Capture Data: [ZWO ASI120MM] Pan=0 Tilt=0 Output Format=SER file (*.ser) Binning=1 Capture Area=1280x960 Colour Space=MONO16 Temperature=14 Discard Split Frames=Off High Speed Mode=Off Turbo USB=40 Flip=None Frame Rate Limit=30 fps Gain=4(Auto) Exposure=0.001402(Auto) Timestamp Frames=Off Brightness=9 Auto Exp Max Gain=50 Auto Exp Max Exp M S=30000 Auto Exp Target Brightness=100 Apply Flat=None Subtract Dark=None #Black Point Display Black Point=0 #MidTone Point Display MidTone Point=0.5 #White Point Display White Point=1 TimeStamp=2018-08-29T23:31:25.2121863Z SharpCapVersion=3.1.5219.0
  6. 4 points
    Very nice report Doug The Plato craterlets are one of my favourite lunar challenges. Under some illiumination they appear as bright spots but I prefer to try for them when the phase will enable you to see them as actual pits with shadow within and tiny ramparts. I think 10 is the best that I've managed with my 12" dob. There are the "Big 4", the "Little 4" and the "Tiny 9" to work your way though as set out here by David Knisely: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/34841-guide-to-plato-craterlets/
  7. 3 points
    A quick single frame capture at 200mm with the moon not much above the horozon at 5 degrees. No adjustments to colour, this is the naked eye view, which is rather lovely I feel. No work tomorrow and a clear sky means proper images later.
  8. 3 points
    Well, that was a little awkward. Here's the three as jpeg.
  9. 2 points
    Yes, pretty much exactly the same. Like you, I couldn't work it out at first, so used a totally different light source in the end (just a plain wall with diffused light) and the problem went away. I tried it with normal paper and the light on full and it resolved it. I changed the paper for film as it was more resilient and less prone to tearing etc. no other reason.
  10. 2 points
    I have just given my s/h Lunt 1.25" its firstlight about sixty minutes ago. I could not be bothered to get the Giro or Vixen out, so attached my TeleVue Ranger + 15mm Plossl e/p to my camera tripod & ball head as in the photo. My ultimate lightweight grab'n'go. No sunspots today though!
  11. 2 points
    Looks great, excellent cleaning job. Coatings are surprisingly robust but ultimately it is a good idea to remove anything besides dust or dew spots, especially with a scope like a Tak. I still remove dew spots or better yet dont let them form and harden in the first place.
  12. 2 points
    Probably our moon. As already said so much to study. The main reason I purchased a 4.7mm ethos.
  13. 2 points
    I have the DF and until recently had the AYO master II on Berlebach uni 28 and it was a dream the scope itself is stunning on visual and I’m only using 1.25 through a Tak prism and it’s great
  14. 1 point
    This is something that has been bothering me for along time. The question is, why do some targets appear grainy, blotchey, speckled...etc, while othervtargets appear smooth and very nice. These 2 images illustrate what I am getting at better than my descriptive terms. These images were shot on the same night, same general part of the sky, similar amount of data. Actually, the NGC 6823 has more data than NGC 7000 and it is the one that prompted this post. The condition were the same for both naturally (full Moon). But the dim areas in NGC 7000 are smooth, free of....not sure what to call it, but it does not look smooth the way the dim areas of NGC 7000 look. Originally I thought this happened in dim signal areas--but the dim signal areas of NGC 7000 are free from this......effect. Would that it were true that the little blak clumps and irregularities in NGC 6823 were dark structures. Alas, I fear that is not the case. Anyway--these projects are just starting, and I am generally pleased, but in my experience when the speckles show up they do not go away even with huge amounts of data. I found NGC 1333 to be the same way. "They are dim" people say--well so are the dim areas of NGC 7000, and there are no......speckles. NGC 6823 has 62 5min subs, and NGC 7000 has 42 5min subs (FSQ 106 with .6x reducer and ASI 1600) Anyone have any ideas? Edit: I tried really hard to process the speckles out. In the end I reduced noise control to a normal level because too much noise control is as bad as the speckles. Still--there is probably too much noise control in both images. Then again, they are not finished products--just for demonstrating this question. NGC 6823 NGC 7000
  15. 1 point
    Wow that is beautiful!
  16. 1 point
    Out of curiosity, I just did a sidereal day test on my old SA with just a laser pointer. Over the period it went ~37mm too far. That's probably not too bad with no load and just running on batteries. There might be a case for attempting to resurrect it and trying to fix the usb connector which I'd managed to break... I did actually replace the socket (as best as I could) but power isn't getting through - At the same time as ripping out the connector, I also damaged the tracks when I caught my foot on the usb cable nearly 3 years ago . Anyway, if I can get non-battery power to it, I'll give it another test with a decent load. Louise
  17. 1 point
    Thanks so much everyone for all your input. If i can get a 2nd hand baader that would be aweaome.ive only had the scope since Monday so i cant really afford to purchase a new one at the moment.but i will definately keep my eyes peeled for a 2nd hand one. im enjoying looking at all the accessories as much as looking at the sky lol. once again thanks so much for the advice.
  18. 1 point
    M13 for me. It's reasonably easy to find, can be seen under LP and comes alive under dark skies - still waiting to spot the propeller though... just have to keep looking I guess!
  19. 1 point
    Hi Mark, Welcome to SGL. It is a great forum and helped me no end when I first started out (and still does!) I don't know if you're aware, but there is an astronomy club that meets in WGC on the second Wednesday of every month (apart from summer) the venue is the Panshanger golf club, and the first meeting of this year will be 12th September. We're a friendly bunch, and all you need is some interest and enthusiasm. You don't have to join straight away, it's £3.50 per meeting or £20 for the whole year. Website is here if you fancy taking a look http://www.skiesunlimited.co.uk/HAG/ Hope to see you there, I wish you clear skies!
  20. 1 point
    I shall be investing in the handle myself, and keep saving for the observatory! (One day, one day!). Thank you, was a delight to have some sky to work with and do some target hopping. I am curious to see what I can do with resolution, I strongly suspect I can match it. I shall have to look out for the article.
  21. 1 point
    I posted this sometime ago: - I have to admit that to do 30 of each in NB now takes me over 3 hours as my FW also contains a LUM filter for plate solving so if I have taken any images with that then I have to allow from the minimum of 0.2 right the way up to 178secs. But I let it just churn away whilst I sit with my wife watching a film.
  22. 1 point
    I'm currently using the 120 mono on my ST80 and it works a treat, same usb configuration too. Having absolutely no issues with it. For my money, I'd definitely recommend it
  23. 1 point
    I use a pair of the Celestron Regal 8-24mm zoom eyepieces packaged with their Regal M2 spotting scopes in my binoviewer. It's also packaged with the Olivon T-84EDO spotting scope as well with a rubber grip. I picked up each for about $65 used in basically new condition. It has a very smooth and light zoom action with very good edge correction at f/6 (but certainly not perfect). It does require slight refocussing during zooming. It's AFOV varies from 44 degrees at 24mm to 63 degrees at 8mm. The change in AFOV is very linear. I can't detect any stalls or jumps in size while zooming. It has a nearly sharp fieldstop across the entire zoom range. It's perfectly sharp near the middle of the range. Usable eye relief with the eyecup screwed off is about 14mm throughout the range. I have no trouble taking in the entire view with eyeglasses. The eyecup rotates up and down very smootly if you don't need the extra eye relief. The top does not rotate during zooming, unlike the Baader Hyperion zoom, so winged eyecups can be used when binoviewing with them. I don't know if they're available in Europe, but they are readily available in the US from multiple sources.
  24. 1 point
    meteoblue has proved accurate for me, been using it for a couple years with no disappointment. They have predictions for astronomical seeing in arcsecond maximal resolution for every hour (night and day), with detailed info on jet stream speed, altitude of bad air layers, humidity close to the ground, cloud cover at several altitudes, all an imager or observer could wish for.
  25. 1 point
    Beautiful scope. Received my 77 II the other week just before it was discontinued along with the 71FL. Beautiful engineering, enjoy. Glen.
  26. 1 point
    Excellent. I've just ordered a sheet of that material. Did your flats look anything like the ones in my original post?
  27. 1 point
    If i change my mind i always let the seller know,its a matter of courtesy. Also if you dont, the seller may be wondering if your still interested whilst othe enquiries come in.
  28. 1 point
    I use this 7-21mm zoom... It's OK for those quick grab'n'go sessions when I don't feel like taking everything outside. Maybe I'm just lazy! The good thing about zoom e/p's it gives you time to get used to specific focal length before committing to a primary e/p that you and your eyes will be comfortable with.
  29. 1 point
    What is the typical exposure time for your flats Pete? As Steppenwolf mentions above the best flats will be with a mechanically dimmed panel and exposure times of around ten seconds or more, shorter exposures induce gradients in cameras with rolling electronic shutters since while the first pixels are being read out the last pixels to be read are still acquiring photons, in your last posted image it looks as though bottom right is being read first and ending at top left. Exposures of a second or less will always show gradient in rolling (electronic) shutter cameras (as opposed to global (electronic) shutters which don't show the same effect). It is normal to see some differences between filters since the CCD does not have a linear response across the full spectrum. The diagonal banding, if always constant, 'might' be polishing marks on the CCD and are a normal part of CCD manufacture, some batches of CCD's show the marks more than others, as long as the marks are constant then flat fielding will remove them from the calibrated image. The other, linear banding, artefacts around the edges are bond wire glints and CCD cover glass refraction, again normal and should mostly be calibrated out when the flats are applied to the lights. I use ND (Neutral Density) polyester acetates, or gels, 1.2 strength, for dimming my panel(s) as they are a constant and don't become damp or crumpled like paper absorbers however they can be scratched easily so if using them it's best to ensure the flats panel is not just laid on top of the telescope. The link below is to one I use, it is a large sheet, 1.2m x 0.53m and I use two layers cut from a single sheet for my panel. https://www.sblite.co.uk/67-neutral-density If you are using a flats panel with your Quatro it's best not to lay the panel on the front of the telescope anyway because you will introduce indirect lighting artefacts into the flat, you need a metre or so distance away from the front of the telescope, even better if you use a long dew shield wrapped around the OTA to prevent stray light entering the focuser as demonstrated in the .gif attached below. Make sure all the connectors and adaptors, focuser draw tube, focuser mount (and focuser port in reflectors) etc between optic and camera are properly blackened otherwise all kinds of strange artefacts can be introduced, see this document for an explanation: http://diffractionlimited.com/flat-fields-stray-light-amateur-telescopes/ HTH William.
  30. 1 point
    Are you a man or a mouse? - Just go in "eyes open", knowing the first night is going to be a pain so try to make sure its not "new moon", on any other night is only "half the pain" really.
  31. 1 point
    change it back if you ever need to boot off usb
  32. 1 point
    I'll let you know... I can't say I can recall ever having seen a value of 0.00 when using Bahtinov Grabber (maybe it happened but I wasn't looking?!). I used to be very happy if I could achieve a focus error of +/- 10 microns (I'm not sure how that calculates but that would definitely be sub-pixel). It'll obviously be much easier with better transparency, and admittedly it's a little more difficult with narrowband filters. (I now have 3nm filters - that was the reason I decided to go for an auto-focuser!). If you wanted to practice with Bahtinov Grabber (to see if you like it), maybe try Luminance filter instead - The "whiskers" are MUCH easier to see and you can use shorter exposures .
  33. 1 point
    ED80 is a superb scope. I have this and a FSQ85 which costs 10x as much. The ED80 is 90% of the quality, it's that good. GLWTS
  34. 1 point
    Assuming you have the correct drivers loaded for the camera here are a few things to try: Step 1: Plug the camera directly into a different USB socket on the computer using a different USB cable, does it appear in the device manager correctly? if it doesn't, suspect the camera and go to step 2. Step 2: Load the drivers onto a different computer and plug the camera in, does it appear normally in that computers device manager list? If it does it means the camera is ok and Windows is the problem then go to step 3, if it doesn't work on a different computer then the camera is defective. Step 3: If the camera works on a different computer but does not work on the original computer then plug the camera into the problem computer using a good USB cable and directly to the computer USB socket, no hubs or extensions to be used, in device manager right click the faulty device showing the yellow exclamation mark and the text "Invalid Configuration Descriptor" and select "Uninstall" from the context menu, then with the camera still plugged in restart the computer, check in device manager after the computer has fully booted, does the camera now appear correctly? If it does the problem is solved and you should disable Fast Startup in Windows 10 to minimise the chances of the problem occurring again as this is a known issue with some USB devices that remain plugged into a Windows 10 computer at boot up when Fast Startup is enabled (which is the default setting in Windows 10, great for web browsing and email in hurry, not so good for process control and automation systems). Also, in Windows 10 when used for imaging you should disable USB Selective Suspend in Power Settings for both mains and battery options. If the above does not help maybe someone else has a good idea as that is about the limit of my knowledge for Windows 10. HTH.
  35. 1 point
    looked out the window and seen a gap with the moon in it so qwick as a flash"meaning running about like ive worms in my brain" caught it. seeing wasn't bad. kit starwave 102 1200d. hope you all have clear, thanks for looking. charl.
  36. 1 point
    Very nice set of images, particularly the "blue" image, is it inverted?
  37. 1 point
    Nice looking Saturn. I have reprocessed images from years back, nothing wrong with trying again as your techniques improve and software gets better.
  38. 1 point
    A capture image Mariusz, some really nice details visible there!
  39. 1 point
    Very nicely captured and presented Reggie!
  40. 1 point
    Within the constraints they set for themselves to maintain a body narrow enough to be used in binoviewers and to remain in a 1.25" barrel. If either restraint had been relaxed, I'm sure they could have come to market with it much more quickly. At f/11, you scope is not as harsh on eyepieces as let's say an f/4.5 Dob, so somewhat lesser eyepieces would work okay. However, the very good eyepieces like the Morpheus become great eyepieces at f/11. If size and weight are a concern for you, I'd recommend the new APM 30mm Ultra Flat Field. I measure it to have a 73 degree field with very little distortion, yielding a true field of view close to that of the 35mm Panoptic with less field curvature. It is also considerably lighter and narrower.
  41. 1 point
    Plenty of detail there. Very nice images.
  42. 1 point
    The Baader Morpheus are really quite light, around 350gms or so. Optically IMO they are a match for any of the very high priced brands Dave
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Hi and welcome. There are quite a few of us of a "certain age" on here. ?
  45. 1 point
    Rarely imaged Molecular Clouds in Cepheus: MBM 163 - 166 (Magnani, Blitz & Mundy), LBN 569 (Lynds' Catalogue of Bright Nebulae) and probably others... Centre of field: RA 22h12' DEC +81°10' Exposure time: 26 hours, 30 minutes (5 min. subs) Optics: Takahashi Epsilon-180ED f/2.8 Camera: Nikon D810a (ISO 400) Mount: Astro-Physics Mach1 GTO SQM: 21.4 - 21.7 magnitude/arcsec² Location: Izon-la-Bruisse, France Date: August 6, 8, 10, 11, 13 & 17, 2018 Data reduction / pre-processing with Astro Pixel Processor, post-processing in Photoshop CC. https://www.mauricetoet.nl/DeepSky/i-5Z9v6J4/A https://www.mauricetoet.nl/DeepSky/i-GgxGf8N/A
  46. 1 point
    Thank you all for chipping in. I can start to grasp why people have so many EPs. I thought four would be more then enough. There are so many things to factor in (let us not forget budget). Many of the long treads in the eye piece forum actually start to make sense now.
  47. 1 point
    Welcome to SGL - you've chosen a good place for your initiation into forums. Talking of which, has the initiation ceremony been explained to you? ?
  48. 1 point
    I've advertised a couple of items on Gumtree and had almost immediate responses saying that they'd like it, but they never respond to further communications. I don't think "time wasters" is an exaggeration for these people; they don't even have the decency to let you know they've changed their minds. Ian
  49. 1 point
    In 1827 Burchell specifically noted Eta Carinae's unusual brightness at 1st magnitude, and was the first to suspect that it varied in brightness. John Herschel made a detailed series of accurate measurements in the 1830s showing that Eta Carinae consistently shone around magnitude 1.4 until November 1837. On the evening of December 16, 1837, Herschel was astonished to see that it had brightened to slightly outshine Rigel. This event marked the beginning of a roughly 18-year period known as the Great Eruption. Eta Carinae is probably the greatest treasure of the southern sky. It is also the first object on which you will direct your telescopes if you want to admire its beauty. Moreover, to see the surrounding nebula, you do not really need anything. Under good conditions it is visible to the naked eye. A star, located 7,700 light-years from Earth, is actually a stellar system composed of at least two components. Their mutually reinforced glow is millions of times brighter than our Sun, and is primarily responsible for lighting up the surrounding matter. It is finally one of the most beautiful nebulas you can observe. It's called Carina. Like other objects of this type, it is a active star-forming region. It is difficult to find in the sky a more diverse object to observe. You will find reflection, emission, dark, dust, and other nebulae in it. All this you can see on my photo taken in the multi-spectral technique (gathering light emitted by ionized gases: oxygen, hydrogen and sulfur). This picture cost me a lot. 12 thousand kilometers and 72 hours of travel. 3 nights struggle to collect photons. 15 hours of raw material processing. The result is a photograph that I undoubtedly point to as the groundbreaking and best astrophotography of my decade-long career. In this field, achieving the level of the image we dreamed up is extremely difficult. This time I have the impression that I look at the picture exactly what I wanted to do. When working with narrowband filters, then trying to balance them in a graphical application, is such a magical moment when the monochrome picture blossoms with a color gamut. This is the moment in which the author himself cannot admire the scale of beauty of cosmic creation. Because we do not create it. Modestly we only record and interpret. The work, however, is not ours. CMOS camera: ZWO ASI1600MM-C + Baader Narrowband filters, mount: iOptron CEM25EC, refractor: WO APO71 f4.9. Location: South Africa (near Sutherland and SALT observatory)
  50. 0 points
    I have become resigned to this when offering unwanted stuff free on Freecycle etc: the knee-jerk reply saying they want it, followed by deathly silence when I e-mail back and invite them to arrange to collect. Or they don't turn up.
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