Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_dslr_mirrorlesss_winners.thumb.jpg.9deb4a8db27e7485a7bb99d98667c94e.jpg

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 17/07/18 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    The wait wasn't as long as I expected. FSQ 106 with .6x reducer, ASI 1600 with Astrodon series E True Balance filters. No Ha yet Lum: 218 30sec Red: 110 30sec Green: 151 30 sec Blue: 109 30sec I found this very easy to over process and ended up backing way off. There re allot of details to play with. Not sure this is the final version, but I think I am on the right track.
  2. 11 points
    NGC 6888 The Crescent Nebula in Ha/OIII with RGB stars. 14 hours total integration: RGB at 10x300s each, Ha 26x900s, OIII 20x900s. I wanted to get good contrast between the inner Ha and OIII outer shell (which is fainter that the Ha) and so tone-mapped before stretching, to enable comparable signal strength between them. Ha mapped to red. OIII mapped to blue. Green was a blend of 30% Ha and 70% OIII. And just for fun I did an OIII-only version too.
  3. 6 points
    Filters...I've got the obligatory ones, but I never seem to get around to using them. Not dark enough, not enough aperture in use, whatever the excuse, it hardly ever seems to happen. Recently though, I did finally point my 8" newt at The Veil with an O-III filter in place and it was certainly worth it. So on this clear, dark night away from Starbase Newt, I was ready to go all-out with the filters and see just what was possible with the 71mm Borg. I did also take the time to check in with the planetary procession, visiting with Jupiter, Saturn, and...Mars. That big, bright, sharp orange globe...if only the dust storm would cease - but that's been covered, so moving on. Filters are fiddly. I'm bound to drop one in the dark some night during an eyepiece change. It hasn't happened yet, but it's just a matter of time. I thought I'd get around this by just screwing it into the diagonal scope-side, but...no threads seemed to be there. Hm. I settled on putting the 1.25" filter on the Baader Zoom, while using a 24mm Panoptic to find the target area before the switch. Worked quite well. Started off with the UHC and these are the highlights: Lagoon Trifid Omega Eagle Ring Switched to the O-III to try for the Veil, and it was surprisingly good. I would have preferred to use the 24mm Panoptic with its wider field, but sadly its threads don't seem to match those of the filter - or maybe I'm just faffing about, but in any case, the narrower field of the Baader Zoom meant I had to do the Veil in sections, but this was most worthwhile and I could use the zoom to get a darker background. It wasn't all nebulae, though - I left the filters out to check on M22 and M28, both of which showed up nicely. One of my favourite bits of sky remains the starry bit where the Sagittarius Star Cloud is said to be - whatever cloud there may or may not be there, the arrangement of stars, cluster or not, to be seen there is just so nice, always uplifting. The ISS came shooting over, and I managed to track it for a good few seconds, and even zoom in a bit. A very satisfying haul with just 71mm. Aperture wins, but, all things being equal, a dark sky makes the most difference.
  4. 5 points
    Really pleased with this and especially the nebulae around the outside of the Crescent. Right ascension 20h 12m 7s[1] Declination +38° 21.3′[1] Distance 5,000 ly Apparent magnitude (V) +7.4 Apparent dimensions (V) 18′ × 12′ Constellation Cygnus Canon 1000d Modded Dithered in APT 24 x Lights 16 x Flats No Darks No Bias Roger
  5. 4 points
    A beautifully clear and moonless Sunday night and after a day of swimming and sunbathing I just couldn't be bothered to go outside. With just Jupiter and a little bit of moon for company since May, I wondered if the astronomy fire was dwindling inside me. Luckily, Monday night was unexpectedly clear so I had a chance to give it a stoke. I set up still with the discomfort that's been with me for a few weeks and noticed that sky was not sharp enough to resolve much on Jupiter or dark enough to see much else. Saturn was nice to see after a year. Sagittarius was my main target as I had never seen it with a UHC filter and now I had one. The Swan actually looked like an upside down swan and the Eagle had clear (though a lot less) nebulosity. The Dumbbell looked great too. Overall, I feel I'm not much of a filter person yet. My fingers are too clumsy, star-hopping is more difficult and I'm still not up to spending enough time on a target to make all that screwing and unscrewing worthwhile. Obviously, the sky had changed since May and I found I was less familiar with it. I tried a few doubles- Izar, Alberio and Iota Cass. Iota Cass is one of my favourites but I could only split it in two last night. I went to 150x and a split was hinted at. I kept my rarely used 6mm in the scope and turned it on Saturn and what a revelation. The best view I've ever had. Clear and beautiful. When I looked up it was astro dark time and the sky was breathtaking with the milky way clear. I looked at Bodes and the Cigar- still probably the most amazing site in the sky. Oh, and I nearly forgot Mars. I can't believe how much bigger it was. It was too low to be able to observe seated so I wobbled about bent over. I'm starting to see the Mars attraction and I can see how time spent on it will be rewarded. In the end, as the time went on, I changed from going through the motions to something like excitement. I'm still not back to my old self but I'm definitely on the way back. Darkness rules. Thanks for reading.
  6. 4 points
    I had a bit of a fruitless hunt for noctilucent clouds last night, but at least tested the Samyang 10mm F/2.8 and my old Contax mount Carl Zeiss Distagon 28mm F/2.8 on the area centred on Cygnus. I I forgot to switch to raw, so these are some JPEGs stacked in APP. No tracking was used, so some star trailing visible. First up the Carl Zeiss Distagon 28mm F/2.8, 1 frame 20s, ISO 400, 2x 20s at ISO 800, on my un-modded EOS80D: four frames at 20s with the Samyang 10 mm F/2.8 at ISO 800 I used full aperture in both cases. In the lower left of the latter image M31 is visible, right near the edge. I need to do this properly, non a tracking mount, perhaps one stop down in the case of the Samyang, capture loads more data, use the modded EOS 550D, and use flats and darks, but I am still quite pleased with the potential. I also took two shots of the lack of noctilucent clouds with both lenses at full aperture: Samyang 10mm: Zeiss 28mm:
  7. 4 points
    For those still following Jupiter, there is a nice Io plus shadow and GRS transit tonight starting at about 23:00 - you will need to catch it early before Jupiter starts to sink into the murk! SkySafari view at about 23:10, with Jupiter still 12 degrees or so above the SW horizon. Chris
  8. 3 points
    Last night was mainly used for testing my setup. But I did manage to capture Saturn in the early hours of today 15-07-18. Captured with a C11xlt Asi290mm & Baader IR-RGB filters. Thanks for looking
  9. 3 points
    Took this over Saturday and Sunday at Deep Sky Camp near Hastings , England. Constellation Triangulum Right ascension 01h 33m 50.02s[1] Declination +30° 39′ 36.7″[1] Redshift -0.000607 ± 0.000010[1] Helio radial velocity -179 ± 3 km/s[2] Galactocentric velocity -44 ± 6 km/s[2] Distance 2.38 to 3.07 Mly (730 to 940 kpc)[3][4] Apparent magnitude (V) 5.72[1] Characteristics Type SA(s)cd[2] Mass 5 × 1010[5] M☉ Number of stars 40 billion (4×1010)[6] Size ~60,000 ly (diameter)[6] Apparent size (V) 70.8 × 41.7 moa[1] Canon 1000d Modded Dithered in APT 40 x Lights at 300 second subs 22 x Flats No Darks No Bias Roger
  10. 3 points
    Stack of 51 frames out of about 1500 Lunt 60mm D/S click for full res
  11. 3 points
    Hi Folks here are the latest photos as i promised. As i said in my last post the base is a little wobbly but that will be easy to remedy. I just need to get it back to my workshop and have a night of tinkering. It has no light shroud or baffle. I have a aluminium ring to go on the front end and i was going to stretch some black lycra or some kydex round it but ive not got round to it yet. Besides that the scope works well. the views of the moon the other night were very nice for a 6 inch Newtonian. I use a Skywatcher HyperFlex -7E 7.2-21.5mm eyepiece with it, as this set up is all about keeping pack weight down. I am use to using 82 Degree Explore Scientific eyepieces so this Skywatcher eyepiece can be a little narrow when zoomed to 21.5mm. But thats me just being fussy i suppose. The ultimate test is when i pack it in to my ruck sack and go for a hike. I have done this once. When i walked the Cotswolds a couple of years back. It was a bit trick to set up and not as satisfying as my other Ultralite backpack telescope design but it did do the trick. Thanks for reading and Clear skies to you. Peter
  12. 3 points
    This won't help - but you started it. I've got the full set of Nagler T6 and keep coming back to them. Nothing else gives this big a field in so small a package with a view this nice. It may be a personal thing, but eye placement is "right there" as well, effortless, like coming home. They travel so well, easily stowing away wherever there's space in the bag. They're not the newest or the widest or the cheapest or the (very) smallest - but by Herschel, they are compelling! Regardless of what else I use, I'm keeping the T6's.
  13. 2 points
    Comet C/2017 S3 (PANSTARRS) photographed on July 9th 2018, a week after its first outburst of activity has dropped from magnitude 9 to 10.5 with a coma which has reduced again its size from 5 to 3 arcseconds in appearent diameter. In the upper part of the image highlights "Tombaugh 5", a little-known open cluster of faint 12 magnitude stars. Telescope GSO 8" N f/3.8 & Camera Atik 383L+. 14.5 min. total exposure. Non-composite stacking. Locally from Vallés, Valencia (Spain). http://cometografia.es/2017s3-panstarrs-20180709/
  14. 2 points
    I don't wish to interrupt, but.... You should have members queuing to buy these power packs. Why are so many people still using lead acid? Lithium battery packs that are properly made (Tracer is one) always include control electronics to prevent over charge, over discharge, and over load. Lead acid packs give no protection and one forgotten over discharge can mean a journey to the dump. Lithium far out performs lead acid and NiCd/NiMH in power to weight and volume figures. It also works well in the cold - unlike the older competitiors. Don't think of the youtube videos showing flaming power packs. These are shoddily made products from China - a bit like some copy scopes. So why am I not PMing to buy? The simple answer is I have been using lithium for years in all sorts of applications. Not just astro kit. It is my first choice rechargeable power. I already have enough lithium cells and assembled packs to run all my portable gear so offer others the opportunity to move out of the past.
  15. 2 points
    Made a short animation of noctilucent clouds taken two nights ago from Aduarderzijl. The resolution is pretty good, and Youtube even made an 8K HD format available. Next time, I will capture way more frames.
  16. 2 points
    If the 414EX is cooling to -5.5 and the ambient is mid 20's, as it has been, then there is absolutely nothing wrong with the cooling at all. The 414EX has quite a small sensor, so at -30 has a slightly higher ΔT than my 460EX, which is -25. It isn't unusual to struggle with temperatures in the height of summer. I image in Southern Spain and this is precisely why I got the 16200, which cools to -50 ΔT so I can image at -15 all year round, no matter how warm it gets.
  17. 2 points
    Hi everyone, I also observed Mars with a 5.1 inch APO, on Saturday morning July 14th. Once again a large clearly defined disc, and yes, in moments of better seeing just a few diffuse surface features were visible using a Wratten 23A filter. However, still a long way to go. Best wishes Chris.
  18. 1 point
    M31 I captured last autumn, even though I only have FL 420mm it seems like it still don't fully fits in the image. Astro Tech AT 65Q Canon700D Baader mod 5x120, 33x360 at ISO 800 Hope you likes it
  19. 1 point
    Not necessarily Neil, but it's interesting to try what others are on about anyway, even if it's only to decide that something else is a better option for you
  20. 1 point
    Do try an Ethos though, if you get a chance I'm interested in trying a Lunt/APM a) to see how they compare to the Ethos and b) to see if they are similar/the same as the Myriad 100's. Nothing like finding out for yourself
  21. 1 point
    Taken some images from yesterday mornings session and had a go at combining three of them to form a mosaic of sorts. With the ZWO ASI120MM having such a small chip size I thought I would start small with just a few shots to see if I could do it. With some more practice and time hopefully I can build on this. Thank you for looking in. John
  22. 1 point
    They look fantastic fozzie, you should be delighted with them!
  23. 1 point
    Great one @cloudsweeper! Plenty of darker nights on the way too. Clear skies
  24. 1 point
    No reason why you can't mate. The only thing that you would need to be mindful of is dust moving around as you move the scope around. I have done it this way many times (brought the kit indoors and then did flats) and never had an issue.
  25. 1 point
    Yes, you'll need plenty of patience if you're going to be in it for the long run
  26. 1 point
    Hi matt and welcome.im not far from you(maltby). Enjoy and have fun.
  27. 1 point
    If you are using Sharpcap with a compatible USB camera, use the histogram function in Sharpcap to set the exposure. When it's about right, the three coloured lines at the bottom should be bouncing rear the right side. Don't ask us what exposure to use, select it by the histogram. ? I have seen the best exposure time vary with the atmospheric conditions. I am using a f10 SCT for Jupiter, so you want at least a x2 barlow. Another tip - focus on one of the moons, or better, on a star (you will probably have to adjust the exposure).
  28. 1 point
    Always use Histogram for Exposure and Gain adjustments. Simple rule for planets, keep Gain higher (not TOP) and Eposure as Short As Possible, to get the highest Frames Per Second (FPS) rate, but Look at the Histogram (Logorythmic Mode) all the time and Do Not let it pass 70% and Fall less than 50%. If your Can Crop the image around the planet, - always Shoot in the Cropped mode (it will reduce file size, will increase FPS, and will increse preprocessing speed). Also, check the vids from this channel. Have fun!
  29. 1 point
    As mentioned above by @Stu I did have the 16mm T2 and loved it but the 17mm Ethos has noticably more contrast. The view was clearly wider but that's not what amazed me. It was the contrast which was far superior. I liked the T2 and T1 Naglers as they didn't suffer the chromatic aberration I see on the moon with Ethos, Delos and new Naglers. Not many others seem to see this but it bugged me. I have since bought a 19mm Panoptic, plus 11mm, 9mm and 7mm Delites all of which I love and don't see this CA either. BUT the contrast and sharpness of the newer eyepieces is noticeable in my experience. Annoyingly, I still feel that T2 and T1s did a bit better on cyclops solar. Too late now though! As always, the differences are slight but for me anyway apparent, especially on that night at a dark site with 16" of aperture.
  30. 1 point
    I started out with T1 Naglers, then compared them to T6's and saw a difference in terms of comfort, light scatter control, sharpness and light throughput so moved to a set of T6's (all but the 11mm for some reason) and enjoyed them a lot. The Steve at FLO loaned me a Pentax XW and again I saw some slight improvements that I liked so eventually the T6's were replaced either by XW's or by Ethos. All the differences were really quite slight and all are very good eyepieces. Depends how fussy you want to be really - if you don't see any difference, or at least not one that you value, then stick with what you have. There a many other factors (eg: seeing conditions, scope collimation etc) that will have much more effect on the views than the differences between these eyepieces I reckon. In the "wobbly stack" the eyepiece is towards the bottom. Doesn't stop us discussing them quite a bit though
  31. 1 point
    Well, there's hints of different colours there, so that's better than my observations a few days ago!
  32. 1 point
    I am still trying to get a handle on the asi 1600's method of imaging for broadband. Spoiler alert: DO NOT VIEW AT FULL RESOLUTION (or limit such viewing to the brightest areas). I am struggling with exposure times. I find that due to download times and "wait" times (what ever that is), coupled with dither delay times, plus adding 10 min or so for refocusing, the collection of 1 hour of data using 30sec exposures takes almost 2 hours. So, what ever time benefit I gain by shooting at F3 over F5.4, I loose due to the infernal delays. I have my dither delay set at a bare minimum 10 sec. I have not been able to determine what the "waiting" delay is for--download perhaps? 15-20 sec seems exorbitant for download. Any way, this image consists of 100 30sec Red subs and 30 60sec Red subs (conditions were too poor for Lum). I am seriously considering going to 2min. Much longer than that and we get into "what is the benefit of F3 territory". On the other hand, the longer the subs, the less a 20 sec delay between subs adds to the total imaging time. So this image contains 1 hour and 20 minutes of data. Conditions were deplorable in general, with a moderately clear zenith, which is where most of this data came from. Bottom line...80min should be enough to render a smooth, low noise Red stack . The total integration times between the STT-8300 and the ASI 1600 are typically said be comparable--the 8300 requiring less subs of longer duration and the asi 1600 requiring more subs of shorter duration. Combine this with shooting at F3, and I expected the total integration time of a stack to be 30-40 min. Maybe an hour. This is far from the reality I have seen. For bright areas it seems to be closer to truth, especially during pristine conditions (ie M8/M20, M31). But if I am ever goin to attempt the IFN, I need to dial it in better. So far, all attempts have been at unity gain. Offset no longer variable.
  33. 1 point
    Nicely done, getting anything meaningful on those fuzzies is tricky. Once spent far too long trying to observe the cute spiral next to M57, in a friends 24" dob at a dark site. IIRC it is around mag 17, so should have been doable, but neither of us could pick it out, going to try again this year hopefully.
  34. 1 point
    Me too!.. hence top of my upgrade route in 18 ish months or so. Steve (FLO) be ready for quite a few orders over the next 12 months!
  35. 1 point
    Looks good especially Saturn ! I can see this thread derailing into a Dave Gilmour love in ?
  36. 1 point
    Nice touch from the goog today. The story of Lemaitre is fascinating! .. especially with regards to Einstein
  37. 1 point
    Interesting.. could have been his 124th....
  38. 1 point
    Those milky ways are soooo speckled with stars...
  39. 1 point
    A crackling image, looks like loadsof activity there!
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Or you could just do what I did when I purchased the 10mm Delos.... Completely forget you own the 10mm Radian. However, it was one of the best mistakes I have made as the Delos is excellent. I have a couple of the Type 6 EPs and they are great. So compact and light weight which belies the wide field experience they deliver. However, as others have suggested, I would be more likely to fill in gaps in my focal lengths before I start duplicating.
  42. 1 point
    Cracking images Ewan, amazing detail. Somehow the mono version for me allows a little more detail through, perhaps the contrast is just a smidge better? Or maybe I just need Peter's sunglasses Having looked through Derek's Quark/152 f5.9 combo, I know just how well that works, lovely set up.
  43. 1 point
    Lots of reviews out there on the 13T1 and 13T6. I wouldn’t worry too much about those reviews, but the obvious difference is the huge reduction in size and weight with the T6. If the size / weight of the T1 doesn’t bother you, I’d stick with it myself. But the T6 is such a little tempter....... Ed.
  44. 1 point
    Glad your trip was not a total waste, despite Mars refusing to play ball during most of it. There are some nice objects in Scorpio that are "just out of reach" from our latitudes.
  45. 1 point
    Outstanding images, you almost need sunglasses to view the coloured version!. I've found lately that the best visual performance has been after 6pm.
  46. 1 point
    Wow @wimvb that’s incredible! And great data too @HunterHarling What a great thread ????
  47. 1 point
    i believe that these cameras will cool to -20 to -25 degrees below ambient outside temperature, so if it`s +20 outside then -5 is all your going to get, in the winter months when it`s zero degrees you`ll get -20 easily.
  48. 1 point
    Very true... all of my images have a big element of luck involved...
  49. 1 point
    To be honest it was luck! But they say that luck always accompanies those who are dedicated and persevering my friend MarsG76.
  50. 0 points
    Nights are too short here at 53 north. Later in the year I should be fine
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.