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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/06/18 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    After a rather long wait all is ready now!
  2. 10 points
    Finally! Just got back indoors from my first decent go with the new Skywatcher 12 inch, and Ooooh! ? Everything is sooo much brighter than the poor old 4 inch frac. Jupiter almost too bright (might need a filter for him), 2x barlowed the supplied 20mm plossl to give the best views at 150x, thought I spotted the GRS, but will need better quality EP's I'm sure to improve the views, along with better viewing technique too. It took a bit of searching but I finally found Omega Centauri, yay!!! I tell you what, there's a few stars in there! It more than filled the 20mm EP and although a little faint I could see countless thousands of tiny, tiny stars. Again, better quality EP's will surely improve the views. Generally cruising through the Milky Way was mind boggling! Brilliant diamonds against a jet black background, just spellbinding! Time to start saving, I fancy the Lunt XWA 100 and 110 degree eyepieces from APM, they seem to be very reasonably priced for outstanding quality.
  3. 7 points
    I collected frames to the image below over a few nights in April and May this year after my regular sessions at my roll-off shed under suburban sky. Setup was: Meade ACF 10" with AP CCDT67 telecompressor, QHY163M camera with Baader filters and EQ6 mount. Seeing and transparency were usually average-good. It is HOLRGB composite: 3.5 hours of Ha, 2.5 hours of Oiii and about 2 hours with LRGB filters. Abell 61 planetary nebula is not often imaged target. It is quite faint and pretty old (about 22,000 years). Can be located in Cygnus and its apparent diameter is 3.3 arc minutes - more less the same as M97 Owl nebula. But Abell 61 is much fainter. Thanks for watching!
  4. 7 points
    A brilliant Jupiter, at x180, details of the ragged northern band and a thin equatorial line seen by setting the focusand letting the view come (and go). Sitting right on top of the bright alpha Librae, the variable binary Zubenelgenubi , time to explore Libra. Coming up to midnight , still light with clouds gathering. Binaries, SHJ 179, showing a fine pair Trying to split the 1.2" companion. 14h25.5m -19 58' 5 Librae, delicate at 3.1" separation. β 346, a close pair of twins. As are the closer (1.9") μ Library. Followed by the colourful H VI 117 and the orange and red of Σ 1899. Check out one of the oldest stars, the lonely Methuselah star, HD 140283 (SAO 159459).https://www.space.com/20112-oldest-known-star-universe.html Pleasant to be out , without the waning moon, under , Clear skies ! Nick.
  5. 6 points
    Gave a lecture on imaging and observing the sun to some kids ranging from 6 to 16 a few weeks ago. Great fun, and I got a load of questions from them. I was just sent some images of the event. Obligatory warning NEVER to look at the sun without proper kit Questions galore! The volunteers
  6. 5 points
    very cloudy here today but found a few gaps, seeing in the gaps is good, theres some nice proms on show on the oncoming limb with just on small one on the off going limb. kit starwave 102m quark, asi120mc. thanks for looking and I hope you all have clear skys. charl. proms oncoming limb upper. proms oncoming limb lower. closer shot without reducer. prom off going limb lower.
  7. 5 points
    ...and the eyepiece on the wedge is... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... the 3.4mm HR!
  8. 5 points
    And the winner is....... me Thanks FLO!
  9. 5 points
    Just popped these out. Air temp was 110 degrees (F), but sky was pretty decent. Thanks for the peek. Clear Skies
  10. 4 points
    Been out with a newt to put the new eyepieces to use. Tonight, it's the OO VX6L, a 6" f/8. These eyepieces all feature 20mm of eye relief - something I've not insisted on in the past and still don't, but I am getting to like it. They also all lack green lettering. The Vixen 22mm LVW has a lot of convincing to do; I'm a terminal 24 Panoptic junkie. But there's something compelling about the LVW, a certain ease with which it lets you get on with the task at hand. I really like it. The Pentax 10mm XW takes some getting used to. Eye positioning is not as easy as I expected - at first. The adjustable eyeguard does help and the views are more than worth it; I'm sure we'll get on. Finally, the Vixen 8mm LVW is just as nice and easy to use as the 22mm variant. Being used to shorter fracs, I'm starting to appreciate the value of a good finder. I'm using a decent 60mm job that takes 1.25" eyepieces and I do like it; it makes star-hopping easy. But for more precise targeting, I'm going to need a specialty eyepiece, something with crosshairs to indicate what should be the centre of view. It's all too easy to let the target drift away while changing eyepieces for higher magnification and then have some faff to get it back into view; the joys of undriven alt-az. Dob users seem to manage; so will we. I've got my eye on an illuminated crosshair eyepiece which should help.
  11. 4 points
    Very rarely am I greatly surprised in a good way in this endeavor. I finally got the opportunity to collect some Lum for my HaLRGB M106 data set. In a month of rain I got lucky with an hour of clear, steady skies. I was able to collect 11 2min Lum subs using the TOA 130 and ASI 1600. I was not expecting much out of 11 2min subs. I could not have been more off-base. This dos not look mush different than my 10-12 hour HaRGB image as far as detail and signal. Will 90-100 more 2min subs add much to this stack? Maybe some depth (though the background fuzzies are quite well formed. Its not overly noisy, and despite being shot almost entirely during nautical darkness, does not seem to have a high median, and contained no gradients to speak of. I am confused. I am posting this because very rarely in this endeavor am I confused in a good way. I know it won't last! Edit: Not intended for full resolution viewing (that's where reality rears its inexorable head) .
  12. 4 points
    Had another go at Jupiter, might be the last one of the year for me. I'm still going to have another go at Saturn. I'm not actually sure if Mars will be high enough from my location, but here's hoping. This was taken at about 3000mm focal length (2x barlow and extension tube) with a Skywatcher 200p on a HEQ5 mount. Processed with AS3, Registax, Gimp and Pixinsight: The moons are Ganymede to the left and Callisto to the right. Any advice or criticism welcome.
  13. 4 points
    The Skywatcher Heritage 130 P Flextube is such a nice and easy to handle scope - it prompted me to go out under not so favourable conditions again this morning. At 01.00 CEST, the NELM was just 5.0 mag, and the North America Nebula, even with a Baader UHC filter, was almost without contours. But the embedded (NW - "New York area") open cluster NGC 6996 (10 mag) was distinct, well concentrated. Collinder 428 (8.7 mag), to the east, was fainter and less concentrated. oc 7039 was the least impressive one - just some scattered stars between four 6.5-7.5 field stars. The nearby planetary nebula 7026 was easy to locate within a star "sickle", resembling the one, that leads to M 11. With 183x mag and UHC, it was easy to separate SW from a nearby 10 mag star, as a small disc. Much brighter and impressive was the finisher - the planetary NGC 7027. With 8.5 mag, it's bright disc was blue-green coloured at 183x mag, a very rewarding target. The combo ES 26mmf/62°, Seben Zoom 8-24, Baader 2,25 Barlow and UHC was used for all observations. So, bright summer skies can be mastered by finding/choosing objects with a high surface brightness. The scent of the nearby lime tree flowers, a typical summer impression, added to a rewarding night; and so, at 02.30, pleased to bed. Thanks for reading Stephan
  14. 4 points
    Gamma: It is non linear transform of the signal and should be avoided in astronomical use. Actually I can only think of one particular case where it would be useful - and that is only if gamma is implemented at analog stage (In most cameras I think it is in digital stage so not much use). I can probably best explain it like this: Take a number range: 0 - 100 and do linear transform with it - let's say divide it with 2. Now observe sub ranges 0-10, 10-20, 20-30, ... after operation they have "equal spacing" in resulting set 0-5, 5-10, .... Gamma is non linear transform that operates as power, so look at same range: 0-100 and use square root transform (non linear) it will "compress" range into 0-10 range, but there is another thing that happened. If you again observe sub ranges, in this case 0-10 and 10-90 and note that second range is x9 as large as first - in resulting output it will be 0-3.1622, 3.1622-10 - so first range is 3.16 long while second is 6.83 long - or about x2.16. So we ended up "compressing" x9 long original range into one that is only x2.16 as long as first range. Gamma is used to "compress" certain range to smaller - so you can compress low numbers, or compress high numbers (depending on value of gamma). This can be used in signal compression when you don't care about certain range - too dim or too bright. It is also noted that human eye has response that interprets Gamma 2.2 as linear - or if we observe linearly bright sources - one source as four times as bright as another - our eye will not perceive it as being 4 times as bright, but if we apply gamma 2.2 - then our brain will register it as being x4 times as bright. Only place that I think this might be useful is to "compress" high full well capacity into smaller number of bits - but it needs to be applied in analog stage, and after digitizing and before processing one should "revert" gamma (with opposite setting) to recover linear data. Gamma factor should be chosen such that it compresses high numbers while leaving low numbers as "normal" as possible - because high signal values have high SNR and gamma with successive rounding (ADC) will introduce errors - larger errors in more compressed region - so if we compress high values, since they have already high SNR - it will not hurt as much. I don't think our current cameras even have analog stage gamma so that parameter is best left at 1 (or no gamma applied). Parameters for lucky imaging: I think you should base your parameters on coherence time. With seeing, depending on different layers of turbulent air having different speeds that they move with and aperture of telescope, there is something called coherence time. Different temperatures in different layers will bend the light, but if that bending is "constant" - you will not get "motion" blur, only distortion. It is important to capture frames that "freezes" the seeing - or use exposure lengths shorter or equal to coherence time. This will let stacking program select good frames (the least distorted) without impact of motion blur. Usual coherence time is in range of 5 to 15 (or even 20, 30 when atmosphere is stable) milliseconds. So aim for those exposure lengths. After you select your exposure length - choose your gain based on two things - first is read noise - examine gain/read noise graph and see which gain settings offers you the least read noise. And second criteria is avoid clipping / over exposure, so even though there might be really high gain setting with very low read noise - don't use it if it clips your target. You should aim your histogram up to 90% or there about - don't go over that on average - because in moments of excellent seeing it can jump over 100% and clip (distortion spreads light around and so on average it might seem that target is in good histogram place - but then you will run into moments of great seeing and image will be really sharp and bright in places and it might clip). Don't worry if your selected exposure is such that histogram is far to the left - like 10% or so - in lucky imaging you are not trying to go for optimum exposure in terms of collected light - you aim for optimum exposure to freeze the seeing. After stacking you can brighten the image in processing if it is too dim in subs.
  15. 4 points
    There is currently a display of NLC's if you have clear sky and low north horizon. The display at moment is VERY low in altitude and less than average brightness with little structure so possibly not worth getting out of bed for....but they could brighten before daylight comes in. Good luck if you have clear skies, I'm off to bed. ? Mike
  16. 4 points
    So I was out the other night collecting images for a star trails of Ursa Major over the top of my daughter's tree in the front garden. Out of curiosity more than anything, I thought I'd give time lapse a shot. The attached is low res as I'm still messing around with what codec etc works best. The original avi file was pushing 8gb for 7 seconds!! Managed to get it down to 22mb but can't find anything inbetween. I'll keep playing though. Original raw files cleaned up in Lightroom, then exported out as Jpg's into After Effects. The trails image used the same Jpg set but was put together in Star Stax. As pretty much first attempts at both, I'm happy. EXIF: Nikon D5300, 18mm @ f / 3.5, ISO 800, 162 x 25 seconds Millie's Tree & Ursa Major Timelapse Test.avi
  17. 4 points
    Not delivered, rather collected a new to me Altair Starwave Classic 102 f11 thanks to @Jonk. I even managed a quick glimpse at Jupiter through thin(ish) cloud and was impressed with the detail so can't wait to try it out on a clear night. Here it is on my AZ4 which coped with it nicely.
  18. 3 points
    A glorious night with a gas giant, such was my session last night, i could not have asked for better seeing and the temperature was a comfy 19 degrees C, from the minute i brought out my 150 SW Mak and popped in the ES 14mm,i knew it would be a successful session. Jupiter revealed itself at the eyepiece in glorious detail, i counted no less than 5 bands, and (8) of its moons?? could it be?? speckled here and there, it was a sight to see i must say. It was the first time i saw any planet through my Mak, and boy did it deliver, clean crisp detail i haven't had the pleasure of seeing before, the GRS was clearly visible and cloud bands revealed detail within them i have rarely seen. Realizing it was a great night, i figured i would attempt a shot with my Neximage 5 which is new, imaging to me is new for that matter, so my hopes were not high to say the least, i was a little frightened of completely failing and loosing my urge to take up imaging. Tonight though, the stars aligned and i was able to take an image of Jupiter i can say i am proud of, not because it is a particularly great shot (i am a realist) but it is my first planetary shot, and second attempt at imaging anything period!. I started by doing a semi rough and hurried alignment to polaris on the GP mount using the polar scope and my polar align App, which i have to say was practically dead on as Jupiter remained almost dead centre for the entire hour long which blew me away, lucky. Once i confirmed alignment, i popped in the camera, and fiddled here and there to find jupiter, focus was a challenge to say the least, my Mak has the factory focuser which i can focus perfectly visually, but staring at a monitor at night while focussing is another beast all together. I took several videos at different resolutions and setting so i could see the differences after, i picked the one which stacked and aligned best with highest Res possible and used it in Registax, a new animal to me, but i am getting there. Once i saved the image in Registax, i tried to play with it further in Adobe with little success so i stopped playing god with jupiter and decided i would be happy with my first image of a planet!. advice and tips for a noobie like me is gold so don't be shy!. My focus is off i do realize that.
  19. 3 points
    A catalogue is essential for the serious double star enthusiast. Here I offer a brief comparison between the Sissy Haas (SH) Double Stars For Small Telescopes, and the Cambridge Double Star Atlas (CDSA). They both have good intros - CDSA perhaps more technical; SH very approachable and clear. CDSA has excellent charts, but if you have another atlas, that will suffice (albeit with less emphasis on doubles of course). SH has no charts. CDSA lists about 2500 multiple systems; SH, 2100. Both give RA/Dec coordinates, but CDSA also gives SAO numbers. The coordinates can of course be entered into a GoTo 'scope, but I personally find it easier to use the SAO option on the handset, so CDSA wins there for me. CDSA gives more details about the components in each multiple system, but SH gives comments for every multiple, including typical apertures and magnifications. If I was asked which I would recommend to someone who only wanted to buy one, I would say SH, for clarity and accessibility, but it's a close thing. For me, they complement one another, so I am pleased to own both! The first two images are CDSA; the second two, SH. Doug.
  20. 3 points
    Managed to grab two 4,000-frame SER files this morning, with the usual set-up (APM 80mm F/6 with ASI178MM) Not much going on, except some faint proms in the part inverted Ca-K shot. WL, grey scale: WL, pseudo colour: Ca-K, grey scale: Ca-K, pseudo colour: Ca-K, part inverted: Ca-K, part inverted + pseudo colour: Best seen at full resolution
  21. 3 points
    It's not 'The longer you have to expose' but 'the longer you can expose' without saturating your chip with light pollution. The advantage of long exposures is that they go deeper - ie capture the faintest signal. However, we must distinguish between CCD and CMOS now. Long exposres are great with CCD cameras because the camera has considerable read noise, so 'longer but fewer' subs have fewer doses of read noise. CMOS chips have very low read noise so a huge number of shorter subs provide perfectly good results. In general in AP it's always best to experiment rather than take some else's word for what's best. Olly
  22. 3 points
    Thanks John. You might have a hard time finding a solid and cheap tripod weighing just 1 kg! Carbon fiber allows you to save some weight, but not much at this size I feel. It also costs twice an aluminium one! The tripod I bought is a Manfrotto MT190XPRO4. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FZLBVBG/?coliid=I2I0ZQUR6L6TA1&colid=315FZKDYB6FLA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it ) Specs: Weight 2050 g Collection/Series 190 Material Aluminium Safety Payload Weight 7 kg Legs Tube Diameter 26, 22.5, 19, 15.5 mm Leg Sections 4 Leg Angles 25°,46°,66°,88° Top Attachment 3/8″ screw Min Height 8 cm Maximum Height 160 cm Maximum Height (with Center Column Down) 135 cm Closed Length 49 cm Upper Disc Diameter 60 mm Bubble Spirit Level (No.) 1 Carrying Bag Included none Center Column rapid Colour Black Easy Link Yes Leg Type Single Leg Lock Type Flip Lock Maximum Working Temperature 60 C Minimum Working Temperature -30 C Mount head is TS AZT6-GR (https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p9334_TS-Optics-Tilting-Head-and-Altazimuth-Mount-for-photo-tripods.html) . Specs: Mount type: Altazimuth mount / tilting head Weight: 0.84 kg Dimensions: Height 95 mm - width 120 mm Tripod adaption: Flat support surface D=52 mm with 3/8" thread (female) Instrument connection: Via Vixen GP style dovetail clamp With included clamp (https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p7886_TS-Optics-Optics-Premium-Dovetail-Clamp-adaption-for-telescopes-and-cameras.html). Specs: Suitable for: GP level dovetail bars Dimensions: 63 mm x 63 mm (100 mm with screw) Weight: 175 g Load capacity: approx. 10 kg Thread: 1/4" photo thread, female M6 Bores: four M6 bores at 38 mm distance square, one M6 bore in the middle M8 Bores: two M8 bores at 38 mm distance (attached with three M6-14mm bolts - longer than 14mm do not work unfortunately) TS Optics PSFOTODEL dovetail (https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p237_TS-Optics-Dovetail-Mounting-Bar-Vixen-style---100-mm-slotted-hole-and-1-4--screw.html). Specs: Length of the dovetail: 120 mm Length of the elongated hole: 100 mm Length of the screw: 7 mm thread Fits following mounts: all mounts with GP level
  23. 3 points
    As stated in my other posts, I managed to get to a dark location during these recent clear nights, together with some astro chums. Ha 6 x 600secs Oiii 3 x 300 secs binned x 2 Sii 3 x 300 secs binned x 2 SW 130PDS, Atik460EX and HEQ5
  24. 3 points
    Also sold by APM as Tecnosky Horizon. Here's the internal light path diagram: CN had a discussion on it and the Orion some time back. I also see that Orion has a 1.25" Pentaprism Diagonal with an optical path longer than a 2" dielectric diagonal. I wonder if anyone has tried it out yet to see how it compares to the typical Amici prism correct image diagonal.
  25. 3 points
    Just received a baby Mak to use when travelling. Thanks to Niall.
  26. 3 points
    Cheers Simon, but I have thought of this, which is what the hacksaw is for. The nosepiece on the Denk will take a little trimming, as will the Tak 2" adapter. All millimetres in the right direction. You surely didn't think it was the Tak Tube did you ?
  27. 3 points
    I suspect that one of the few things missing from @Peter Drew ‘s CV is taking his hacksaw to a Tak, so be careful!!
  28. 2 points
    Thought this tool might be useful for Mars observers who don't know about it already. Mars Mapper show what is visible on Mars at any time during the present apparition. It was produced by Ade Ashford for the AN website. Apologies if anyone else has posted up this information, I did a search and couldn't find any mention of it. Link below. https://astronomynow.com/mars/ As it shows, only 55 days to closest approach! ( 51 days to opposition ) Regards, Paul
  29. 2 points
    Has the topic, in 3 years of astronomy this was the most impressive observation of Jupiter,( the face without the GRS) a very important event for me! The conditions were visually looking pretty bad with a low water vapour haze 10 degrees high from the ground, there was even a halo around the moon ? what do you know..? Jupiter was a bit over that blanket of vapour. The planet details were clear like crystal and very stable, the observation was done with my new very best friend, the incredible Fujiyama 6mm HD-OR. I think the atmospheric condition will play so much in the equation, for the amateur with small telescope, more then aperture probably, it's all about the right conditions. This is my sketch bellow, the log of that incredible observation and my most detailed sketch up to this date, done with the 200 x 1000 Newtonian. For a part of the sketch, the 80a filter was installed at the eyepiece to enhance the brown parts of the bands, it gave good results while cutting a bit of overall resolution. There were 2 very large festoons, blue clouds, illustrated in my sketch and some very obvious dark spots all around the bands, an impressive definition of each bands including the secondary bands, they were incredibly visible. This is it! ? I hope you like the sketch, thanks for reading and watching
  30. 2 points
    Ok, I think we have the answer and it is, as has been suggested, my refractor. Although my newtonian wasn't cooled and the seeing was poor tonight, here is a Jupiter shot through it with the same barlow and camera and, to my eyes, the colours are pleasingly natural...even if the image is poor. (As an aside, I have never used this telescope to image before or I wouldn't have asked the question that you have all so kindly being trying to help with. It is so unwieldy with poor drive adjustments but I have worked out a method of getting the subject on the chip with it so may use it more in the future.) Anyway, here is an image taken this evening, resized to 60%. Once again, thanks so much to everyone for your input and patience. I have learnt a lot from the exchange and I am very grateful. Many thanks all.
  31. 2 points
    Sorry Olly, as I understand it it's not about saturating your chip with orange glow. The general rule for a single exposure is expose until your read noise is not the limiting factor. That happens earlier in the exposure for low-read-noise cameras (modern CMOS, for instance). So what other noise sources are there that we should think about? There's dark noise which is what you get even with the shutter closed. And there's shot noise, which is the uneven dribble of photons from light polluted "background" sky. The more light pollution there is, the more photons come from it and the associated noise is the square root of the average number of photons. So that increases as we expose and at some point becomes much larger than the one-time penalty of read noise we pay at the end of the exposure (the "sub" some people call it). At that point, there's little point in carrying on with that exposure and we might as well start a new one. Starting a new one has advantages because our tracking/guiding could fail at any moment and you don't want to ruin a half-hour exposure because of stray photons in the last minute. Also, we don't want to saturate the bright interesting objects! So, dark skies means longer exposures are optimal than bright skies.
  32. 2 points
    I have the Heritage 130P with a 2.25x Baader classic barlow and the 13mm Ethos currently having a good view of Jupiter. The Mag with this setup is 113X and a great FOV. I checked and Europa starts the shadow transit at 10.40 BST so about 25 minutes time. I note that the GRS transits the centre of Jupiter at 0.30 BST.
  33. 2 points
    Everyone be aware that they have only a 17.3mm clear aperture which is considerably less than the 22mm of most budget binoviewers. Thus, don't expect to use these with eyepieces having large field stops.
  34. 2 points
    Last nights Jup,there was some excellent seeing,especially visually so was pleased to get some nice images. Captured using the c9.25 and zwo 120mc
  35. 2 points
    My previous video tripod was very good but also rather long. When my mother started using my 15x70 binoculars, I thought it was a good idea to give that tripod to her. She was quite happy about that! On the other hand my light tripod was too flimsy for the TV60, and so, I gave it to my father for his DSLR camera. He's regularly carrying it to the Dolomites on his motorbike now. Doing so, I remained without any mount for this small scope ? - the UNI 19 is clearly too much for the TV60!! ? A while ago, after seeing John's new TV Ranger, I thought about getting something for my TV60. After my previous experience, this time I was looking for a shorter tripod so that travelling by bike or plane was easy. A small and light giro mount was also more than welcome, allowing me to scan the zenith without any issue.
  36. 2 points
    Mine arrived yesterday. I already had the plastic side plates removed as the grub screws that adjust the tension needed adjustment. 2 were over tight and 1 was really loose. Having adjusted them, my new neq6 was working much better, but with the plastic covers removed it seemed an ideal time to upgrade. I ordered the eq6 rail on Sunday, it was dispatched on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. The instructions said that I needed 2 17mm spanner to remove the pivot bolts, but mine needed 16mm spanners. The rail dropped straight in and was a perfect fit, so I didn't use anything to glue it in place. I greased the rail and bar where they slide on each other with the provided grease and seated the bar on the bolt. The bolt doesn't fasten in, but sits probably 1cm inside the bar so shouldn't come apart unless the bolt is removed fully, or the head is shaken violently with the bolts very loose. After putting the head back together which was the hardest part (getting the washers back in place and the pivot bolt holes lined up) and adjusting the grub screws for what I think is an ideal resistance, the alt adjustment seems very smooth. Total job took about 15 minutes. I'll report back if we ever get a clear dark night on how it works in practice, but I'm confident that it will be a vast improvement.
  37. 2 points
    Spotted by Nasa, minutes before it entered earth's atmosphere. As the report stated, it was only 6 feet in diameter Phew!! thank goodness it's diameter wasn't 6 miles. Could have been Bye Bye the Noo folks.
  38. 2 points
    Isn't that how you get people to part with nice scopes?
  39. 2 points
    Time you changed it, it's getting a bit dog eared Dave
  40. 2 points
    As always, @James at @FLO is keeping me well informed - the 5mm will soon join the gang to complete the Short Set.
  41. 2 points
    I've certainly got plenty of overlap. I'm also gradually getting to grips with what different scopes do best; aperture is good for resolution (globs and lunar detail), but I'm getting more enjoyable wide field views and star splits with the smaller fracs. It all makes sense, but actual experience is more profound than reasoning.
  42. 2 points
    Steve, Just musing out loud here, but do be very careful that any nose-piece inserted into this doesn't touch your prism. I'm not saying it will. It is just that I have seen @iPeace and @John make mention of using spacers when cyclops viewing to avoid eyepieces being inserted too far in conventional holders. Let alone "ultra short" ones... The Baader Quick Change adapter and a Bayonet Fitting as Stu showed would avoid any risk of the nose-piece being inserted too far if the Denk's nose-piece can be exchanged for the bayonet..?
  43. 2 points
    Here is the reply I received from OVL...
  44. 2 points
    The tall tress to the south of my garden prevented getting earlier views of Jupiter until after 11.28 pm. It was a tad misty, and seeing was average. This is the result I obtained. I hope you like it. Clear skies everyone. John
  45. 2 points
    nice and sunny here again in south wales, seeing fair. theres a lovely long prom trailing back past the limb on the on coming limb. well its goodbye to AR2712 which has been a lovely a AR, hope we get another one soon. kit starwave 102, quark, asi120mc. hope you all have clear to view. thanks for looking. charl. prom oncoming limb upper. Think its going to get bigger as more moves on to the disc, hope theres a AR in it. prom oncoming limb lower. closer shot. whats left of AR2712.
  46. 2 points
    Me too. Same for the Delos. I owned an LVW 22 at sometime in the past as well. Another nice one It will be interesting to hear your preferences in due course Mike One thing I've found is that the one that has an edge in one role is not always the top dog in another area. Hence you can end up with a lot of eyepieces eg: my planetary nebulae eyepieces, my Jupiter eyepieces, my Lunar eyepieces, my double star eyepieces, etc, etc The XW's and LVW's are pretty good "allrounders" though
  47. 2 points
    Those are some nice new eyepieces you've got there. I've found to use the XWs without glasses I need to have the eyeguard fully extended and then the rim of the eyeguard rests on my eyebrow and the top of my cheek. You end up looking a little bit "sideways" with this method but for monoviewing that doesn't matter.
  48. 2 points
    Nice report Nick. Was planning to view Jupiter last night (and try to image it again), and Venus too but after a busy two days at work I was so flaked out I fell asleep at around 8:30pm.
  49. 2 points
    At almost 13 seconds of arc Mars, despite its low angle, was rewarding to sketch. Albedo features revealed themselves quite easily.
  50. 2 points
    It could be. But I guess I would have expected more distortion of the star shape ( at least the examples on the internet of chromatic aberration seem to show elongated stars - or maybe they are just extreme examples ). I suspect my setup suffers from a number of small problems so it is hard to isolate just one main cause - I know it suffers from minor/moderate astigmatism. I take that back A new test has revealed that splitting the channels just after calibration, aligning all the channels to one channel ( one of the green in my case ), integrating the R, G and B sets separately and then recombining them into an RGB image has ( at least in my case ) significantly reduced the colour aberration ( regardless of its cause ). old: New: These are 100% crops from the corner of an image, enlarged 3x to make them easier to see and saturation boosted way too high to more clearly show the colour variation within the stars. The second ( processed as individual channels ) is much improved. ( Still some issues - the main one being red splotches at the edge of the stars at about 100 and 280 degrees and smaller blue splotches at about 10 and 190 degrees ( these angles co-respond with the angle of the astigmatism in my system )). The upshot of all that is that it may well be worth trying this approach to see if it can reduce the spread of colour across stars.
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