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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/10/17 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Taking advantage of the work of my colleague Jr Martini who is doing a detailed study on the Linné crater, I would like to draw attention to another little known formation that can be seen in this photo. This formation is in fact composed of two Vallis and a rhyme of a very peculiar and practically unique format on the Moon. I searched for information on these Vallis and actually did not find anything specific other than names and location. If anyone is aware of any work that deals with them be sure to inform me! July, 02-2017 C14 Edge + ASI 224 + PM 2X http://www.astrobin.com/full/316009/0/?nc=user
  2. 6 points
    A wide shot taken with my Samyang 14mm f2.8 lens and unmodded 700D, here's the Great Rift from Cygnus down to Serpens - thought to consist of about a million solar masses of dust. This is about 50 minutes exposure in total, the artifact at lower-right is some trees and a couple roofs. The unmodded camera hasn't picked up much red from the NA nebula but you can still see its shape, it's near the top left. I'm very happy with the image but it's not as impressive as standing in front of it, it can't capture the sheer scale of the two bright pillars in the sky.
  3. 4 points
    very cloudy here today so a smash n grab, not the best of shots so just for the jist. thanks for looking and I hope you have better skys than me. charl prom 1 oncoming limb midway. coloured. prom 2 off going limb upper. coloured. prom 3 very faint off going limb lower. coloured. there is another small prom on the on coming limb but with the covering of thin cloud the cam wouldn't show it
  4. 3 points
    I was given a celestron travelscope 70 as a present from my wife a few years ago and in fact it’s what got me back in to astronomy after a considerable break. As you’ve mentioned the supplied tripod is pretty diabolical but the scope itself isn’t at all bad for the money. Obviously the eyepieces ideally need upgrading but it’s given me reasonable views of Jupiter as well as having a nice wide field of view. I have since acquired several other scopes that I now tend to use for visual observation in preference to the little celestron but I have recently started using it with a monochrome asi120mm for some basic imaging and as a beginner I’m reasonably happy with the results
  5. 3 points
    £3500 spare cash to spend on a telescope!!! Err......I'm single, tall, dark hair, dark eyes, own transport................
  6. 2 points
    shout out for the versatility of the light-weight Tak FS60CB system - some images for your consideration at 252mm (reducer @ f4.2), 366mm (flattener @ f6.1) and 610mm (1.7x extender with flattener ~f10). Admittedly used on an AstroTrac rather than the SA...any excuse to post some of my photos HTH, Andy Antares & Rho Oph @ F4.2 NA and Pelican @ F6.1 M20 @ F10 Sun & Moon @ F10
  7. 2 points
    So thanks everyone for some amazing input. Have taken everything on board and looks like I will be setting on an Esprit 120 with AZ EQ6 as you can never truly discount a little bit of photography somewhere down the line. May throw in a Quark also at some stage.
  8. 2 points
    I was quite pleased with this attempt at bi-color with my 550D recently. The camera is cooled though, so the image was taken at 1c despite it being a very mild night early in September. Still 1c is achievable un-cooled in winter. By that time with the cooler ill be hitting -15c (winters are mild in the UK). ~90 mins per channel. This was taken at F5 on a Newtonian so about F6 equivalent once you account for the center obscuration in the optics. Not as good as what you get with a mono camera but I am pleased with it and think its worth while until I have cash to spend on a mono camera setup, but I am happy to plod about with this camera for a while yet. Leart some interesting techniques too on this image with help from Uranium (Rob) so will be in a better position if and when I do go mono. A UHC is faster with a DSLR but if LP is a real problem you will get a better image with narrow band filters. Just make sure you dont think its worse than it actually is.
  9. 2 points
    I think that's why many beginner astronomers are disappointed. They see all these superb stacked and highly processed images and think that's what can be seen through a telescope but it isn't.
  10. 1 point
    I would look at it this way: the mount has a maximum payload and a maximum tracking accuracy. Both, not just one, have to be respected. Payload is obviously easy - you just weigh what you are putting on the mount. Accuracy is more difficult. The unit that matters is resolution measured in arcseconds per pixel. This value is derived from focal length and pixel size, so focal length alone is not a useful term. (Long focal length with big pixels equals short focal length with small pixels in terms of resolution, stating it simply.) I think that the best information will come from published images in which the user states what camera, at what focal length, was being used. To turn this into arcseconds per pixel you can use a number of online calculators such as this one: http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fovcalc.php Olly
  11. 1 point
    As Dave says, get close and then DARV to fine tune or just go with DARV as it is pretty quick once you get used to it. I think it is best to stop thinking in terms of "true north" as that doesn't get you properly polar aligned.
  12. 1 point
    Dunno about true north but if you point the forks at Polaris with the scope aligned to the forks, get Polaris in view with a wide angle eyepiece 26/30 mm by adjusting the bolts and then spin in RA and adjust so that Polaris stays tracking around the eyepiece when spinning, if that makes sense. This will get you pretty close and you can the refine it using DARV as Freddie said. https://www.cloudynights.com/articles/cat/articles/darv-drift-alignment-by-robert-vice-r2760 Dave
  13. 1 point
    I use an Orion 8x50 finder scope the shoe is very easy to mount on to the tube and is rock solid. Des
  14. 1 point
    Have to agree with Richards post, it enables me to observe even with local annoying insecurity lighting. A bit warm when used for Solar, but then they do make a Solar version, something for my Santa list.
  15. 1 point
    Chris, Great to see back at the grind, was wondering where you were with it. Hat off to you for sticking with it, I would have had enough by now, I far too impatient. Have you a plan where the mirror will finally rest once completed and coated?
  16. 1 point
    It's very simple, embarrasingly so, and can't be used on images in which dark, obsucuring, dust structures pull the background down below that of the unobscured background sky. All I do is stretch the image till the brightest background pixels are, say, at 23 in Photoshop Curves. I put a fixing point on the curve at 23 and put a few similar fixing points above that to pin the straight 'curve.' I then lift the lowest part of the curve, below 23, to compress all the values below 23 towards 23... The advantage of this as a noise reducer is that it does not work by getting adjacent pixels to exchange values, so it does not introduce the oily blur look. The background sky pixels remain entirely independent of one another, so the noise in the image is preserved as a relationship but reduced in its values. Olly
  17. 1 point
    Managed to shoot some stuff through the clouds, with a very bare disk in WL (there are some pores near the 2 o'clock position, but that's about it), and little more going on in Ca-K, until you get to the part inverted disks, in which a bright arc can be seen. It seems like some short-lived loop, because David Smith's images don't seem to show it, and also because of the explosive looking features at the northern base of the arc. The more diffuse proms caught by David are also visible. WL, grey scale: WL, pseudo colour: Ca-K, grey scale: Ca-K, pseudo colour: Ca-K, part inverted: Ca-K, part inverted + pseudo colour: Best at full resolution, as ever
  18. 1 point
    Its all gone a bit quite again, but very nice looking discs al the same.
  19. 1 point
    just be careful when removing the 4 fixing screws that require an allen key to remove them, as behind the metal plate holding the focusing knobs there are 4 rubber o rings they sometimes have a habit of trying to escape.. just an extra bit of help for you andy
  20. 1 point
    Yes exactly. This not the AOG that I meant, but the principle is the same. The Orion TOAG has more sofisticated option for adjustment. You will be happy with it, I think.
  21. 1 point
    I see that there has been quite a few responses to my original question about the typical FWHM values that I should be getting in my system since I last wrote anything here. I have been away since last Friday morning and I haven't been able to respond to all of the thoughts and suggestions that you have been sending in ... many thanks. You have given me a lot to think about here! After reading all of the replies I suspect that I happened to select a couple of stars, for testing the FWHM values, that were probably too bright and so became over exposed. I thought that I had chosen my stars carefully as I knew that they didn't want to be too bright ... the ones that I did chose were certainly not the brightest on my test images. On Thursday night, despite my worried about focusing and the FWHM values that I was getting, I decided to plough ahead taking sets of LRGB of M15 .... today I have just done my very first attempt at calibrating and stacking these images. As it is my first attempt at doing any if this I am quite happy with my efforts thus far. I am attaching a copy of my first attempt at LRGB imaging .... not too sure about the correct colour balance yet. Any helpful comments would be very much welcome :-) Mike M 15
  22. 1 point
    I`m not sure you can without taking the fixing screws however you could try just unscrewing the counter screw and tension screw. However I am pretty sure you have to take the whole focuser off.
  23. 1 point
    It's getting to the point of being financially viable to fly back from Spain for a day's shopping now
  24. 1 point
    Hi Demetrios, welcome. Young miss will enjoy the scope, there's always lots in the sky round Christmas time.
  25. 1 point
    Hoping to travel to the Southern Hemisphere in a couple of years. So flying though a cruise would be nice! I think my Genesis would be too heavy for the former but hoping a TV Pronto or small SC/M/T might be OK as hand luggage. Otherwise buy something over there - to leave, but take my own eps.
  26. 1 point
    I would have a good look at the WO ZS61 if considering this sort of setup, seems a lovely little scope and would work well on a lightweight mount. Perhaps a mini giro or giro-WR type mount on a good photo tripod? The alternative might be a star adventurer but I think they are probably better for AP than visual. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/william-optics/william-optics-zenithstar-61-apo.html
  27. 1 point
    Thanks for the link! I have - joined 4 or 5 days back and already a satisfied customer thereof - it's a great venue, but you have to be quick! Missed a nice Vixen and a mount because I refreshed my coffee. Very nice folks there, and here, and @ CN. Got a couple Baaders for my HoneyBadger and some X-Cel LXs for the granddaughters - I doubt I could tell them from pristine new, except one box looks 'older' than the others. I expected little thumbscrew marks on the barrels or something - nada. Maybe a fluke - but that's eight lenses from six sellers so far - the quality is there; Astro(nomy) folks care . Avg savings was 27.2 % off retail, shipped - enough for a 'free' pre-owned Baader Zoom for the wife. Would've saved a little more if I'd known to use notifications, but I'm happy. I'm watching a set of 4 Expanse go for 60 + change. I really want to try them, but they're Not In My Budget!! Aargghh! I am soooo tempted. Cool thing - there'll be another set out there before long, or as loners. They just went for $62.50. that hurt. $170 new. meh.
  28. 1 point
    That's a lovely descriptive report - a really enjoyable read.
  29. 1 point
    This has also been my experience. The Vixen GP mount is far better than the EQ5 clone and easily holds a C8. I recently bought an elderly classic C8 and the optics are superb. I've not noticed edge of field coma, basically as I never look for it. Most of the "bad" C8's these days are just badly collimated ones.
  30. 1 point
    That's easy, sent him over to mine. I've got a hyperactive kitten that I'll be bringing with me. She'll keep him entertained. (and save me from scratches for a couple of hours)
  31. 1 point
    Welcome to SGL Demetrios.
  32. 1 point
    I have used it with my DSLR, using the standard Celestron T-adapter the distance should be OK. I had no issues with my crop-sensor camera on lunar imaging. It does cause vignetting on my old 35 mm SLR, as the image circle is reduced to 28mm or so.
  33. 1 point
    On other fora, there are frequent mentions of C8 scopes with poor optics -presumably these quality failures get sold on to some poor mug. I've not found cooling much of a problem with my 180 Mak, but it is heavy and needs a good mount, and can track fairly easily at X 300 on an alt-az mount with patience. I like the view through a good C8, although the field edge stars did not impress me...... Chris
  34. 1 point
    Hi Guys Not my workplace View from front of my house Have dark clear skies most nights of the year, with minimal light pollution Club is also hosting star party International Observe the Moon Night 28th October Cheers John
  35. 1 point
    Siril looks to be a great piece of software. My appreciation to all those involved in its development!
  36. 1 point
    Welcome from land down under, and another dobsonian as well Your local club a great idea, and can check out what club members have as well, with respect to scope choices My own club, Goldcoast, Queensland, Australia, we do presentations in schools, as well as space badge scout/guide movement Have attached copy of Level 1 & 2 scout space badge for your daughter and yourself to have fun with Cheers John Space Badge.docx
  37. 1 point
    At payload of ~5 or 6kg with the CG5 I was regularly doing 10 or 15min subs, and when it behaved it could do a whole night without dropping a sub. Apart from the meridian flip - as the CG5 didnt much like guiding through it (though I believe that has been fixed with the AVX). Having said that, I did strip mine down and tweak it a bit. Its worth getting a bigger mount becuase then you can go for 100% all night, every night the only thing that stops it is cloud (and perhaps the odd gale or two!). Plus a heavier mount will be more of a "setup and walk away" affair, without you having to constantly watch a PHD graph for backlash.
  38. 1 point
    Well, I did Just as well we're not all the same though or it would be a very boring world
  39. 1 point
    Yes not long till the count down.... will be tenting it again, the company looking at my self leveling system have been dragging it out and cant say yeh or nay and until its a yey, im stalled on project Obsy. but ne'r mind the whisky reserves have been added to with some unique malts on the cards this year.... ive even got a spinning 4 bottle optic system, talk about posh or what!! Ill also be bringing along my 100mm Takahashi and EQ6 mount that I acquired earlier in the year. need to get some practice in before the camp though!! Looking forward to a good year as were due one! Clear Skies peeps..
  40. 1 point
    Nice report! Concerning being a father, I've just spent a nice weekend visiting my daughter to mark her birthday. (Quite a bit more than her 13th!!) Doug.
  41. 1 point
    Thankyou Stu, this is the first time in 30 years since my apprenticeship as a turner that I have touched a lathe so pretty happy with it so far, it's like riding a bike, you never forget.
  42. 1 point
    This is the advice I followed and I think it is good advice. Everyone told me that the mount is probably the most important thing to invest money in and to get the best possible mount I could afford. I ended up with a decent 2nd hand HEQ5 pro for £450. A lot of dosh for me and I had to save up longer to afford it but that gave me time to research stuff a bit more and I'm pleased that I've ended up with a pretty solid mount for getting started with astrophotography.
  43. 1 point
    Brilliant thread Nick, thanks for starting us all thinking and sharing. I still fondly remember my early experience with my first scope, an S/W 150P, first light was seeing M45 and a few nights later Jupiter and it's moons. I still feel it amazing that with a modest outlay you can see these treasures from your own backyard. Since those early days I have had many wonderful nights not too dissimilar to previous posters. I'm sure there will be plenty more to come.
  44. 1 point
    Great post and some amazing replies. I'll be a little more brief: * Milky Way from a truly dark site in France - just amazing the structure visible with the naked eye. * Comet Hale Bopp - again best without optical aid (well, maybe some bins), but I simply couldn't take my eyes off it * The expectation and anticipation of the night I sat glued to the eyepiece when Shoemaker-Levy 9 crashed into Jupiter. My little Tasco 4.5" reflector showed nothing at all, but the excitement and then seeing the first pictures on the news later that night was awesome. * First view of the Orion Nebula through the 12" dob - such intricate details * Leo Triplet on a particularly dark and transparent night about 2 years ago - all 3 were so bright and different it was as if someone had turned them up to 11. * Finally getting the Veil this Summer, both in the 70ED and 12" dob - audible murmurings galore. * Tracking asteroid 2014 JO25 as it flew by the Earth earlier this year, and seeing it move - real time - in the eyepiece! In all honesty, every time I go out and observe, even for a short period of time, is memorable. Paul
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    With experience, careful observation, time spent at the eyepiece and the other things I mentioned previously being favourable you may well eventually see more details than that. Planetary details don't just jump out at you so you need to develop your observing skills. The seeing conditions will vary night to night and sometimes hour to hour as well and again that will affect how much detail you can see. As I said before, there are so many variables !
  47. 1 point
    What Dave said. I may be misinterpreting what you're talking about, but the pictures you see, or videos you watch, of a particular object are fairly far removed from what you'll see through your eyepiece. The eye works differently from a camera, and watching longer doesn't improve the resolution like a long photographic exposure will. A larger telescope may make things brighter, and to a small degree improve the view, but it would take a move from the typical back yard telescope to Mount Palomar to more closely approximate the difference between eye and camera view. As an example, I had a C6; Andromeda on a good night was a fuzzy oval, the Ring Nebula was a dim circle. I now have a C8 Edge, Andromeda is a more-defined fuzzy oval, the Ring Nebula is now a dim donut. I looked at the same things last night through a C11 Edge (with even better seeing conditions), thinking I might actually see Andromeda's arms; it was still a >less< fuzzy, more defined oval, and the Ring had slightly sharper edges. Both were still far removed from even a basic backyard photo that could be made with any of the three setups. Stellarium has helped me a lot, both in learning where these objects are, to seeing them as I can see them through my telescope.
  48. 1 point

    From the album: DSO

    C9.25 Hyperstar wih SX Ultrastar and Explore Scientific UHC filter. 31x 1 minute.
  49. 1 point
    I've also confirmed that it's a 1:1 reduction flattener, in other words no reduction, but it does have a remarkable 44mm image circle which is practically full frame EDIT: I see this has already been mentioned.
  50. 1 point
    Hi Tony, The Hyperion lenses have an M43 thread, not the same as T-2, you will need an adaptor. The method you describe is known as eyepiece projection and can be used to good effect... although more generally used for terrestrial photography, such as wild life etc. It can be used to good effect with planetary/lunar photography though. The only problem you may have, especially for planetary, would be image size... you may find you need to include an extension between the adaptor and the t-ring which will increase the available image size. see attached PDF... 2nd setup from the left at the bottom. There are other eyepiece manufacturers that include a threaded section but they may not all be the same size/thread form, however, the majority of astrophotographers tend to connect directly to the focuser without the use of an eyepiece... i.e Prime Focus Mode. Hope this helps. Good luck and best regards. Sandy. hyperion_overview.pdf
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